So what size wheels/tires can you fit under a flared crib?

Flares are all roughed in. Tank is no good. I have a couple more small rust spots to fix, and once the areas in the rear were opend up, it became obvious the trunk had been ingfiltrated, so I will be cutting out the seam sealer along the trailing edge to see how bad the trunk floor is. I don't expect much more than the corners where I had to repair the ourtside of, but we shall see. Oh and some more Shea bling showed up today

wow - so nice to see photos of your extraordinary expertise.

awesome.

jim

Scotty, how do you address rust behind the panels when you find it? I know that you wouldn't just button it back up after spraying it with rust converter...
Click to view attachment

Ken, I actually forgot totake of pic of it, ( I tend to get caught up in what I am doing and forget pics often ) but you can tell from the repair photo, I ended up cutting most of that whole area out and replaceing it. I cut out to where I have good solid metal, make my patches and weld them in. Once everything is finished, I will go back over them ( fornt and backside ) and give the spots a coat of etch primer and sealer, then either paint or undercoat as the spot dictates.

Wow, rust never sleeps. I guess that's what happens when you drive it everyday for 4 years/college/no garage and put it away for 20. How do the sills look? The drivers side worries me after seeing all this "hidden" rust.

There was some mis-communication with the 911 struts. They are now on the way. Found some 8x15 Fuchs for the rear for $300/pair (yes they are real Fuchs) so just need 7" fronts. Guys at Pelican where all over the request for 15" wheels.

Hope to hand off the rockers and wheels at Hershey but will drive down to your place if you run out of room.

Might have scored a running 3.0/6 for free, maybe... But that's a project for another day.

Thanks - I knew that you wouldn't just leave it, but I guess my question should have been how do you eliminate it? Do you blast it before you prime, cut it all out, use rust converter or what? As many have said, rust never sleeps - how do you make sure that the crap hidden behind panels is removed at best, or neutralized at least?

I ask these questions because I am fascinated by the art of bodywork. If I could afford to switch professions at this point in my life, I would love to get into it. I wouldn't make any money because I am slow, a perfectionist, and I would rather do restorations than collision repair.

MC installed, replaced the hard line on the pass front as it was rounded off and so rusted on, I couldn't break it free heated cherry red and vise grips on it !! I had a spare that wass in good shape so on it went. I also had a MUCH bettere gas tank, so it went to the sealer on monday. Found more rust. Do your self a favor and ALWAYS get the damned tar board up. I don;t care how clean you THINK the floor is, there will be issues under that tar.

In my experience the floors rust from the inside out. I took a picture of the underside of Marks car right when I found the crap under the drivers seat. This shows how clean and nice his floor LOOKED. Peeling up the tar board tells a different story.

Take note of the striped on the floor after the tar is removed. That right there is proof the stuff doesn't bond from the factory, it ONLY bonds where the stripes are, and it never bonds down in the strenghtening channels. My guess is the tar is preformed and doesn't even touch the bottoms of the channels. Mark will be getting the drivers rear floor replaced, and I will hopefully just make a patch panel for the spot just infront of the pedal cluster.

The trunk that initially appeard solid also showed itself when I repaired the outer metal where the bumper bolts go, so I went inside and removed all of the seam sealer along the back edge to see how bad that was. Not needing a full pan just a few patches, BUT had I not cleaned the seam sealer out, it would have continued to rust and would need a pan at some point. You can see in the pics how bad it has already rusted and without removing the sealer, noone would have known what evil lurked within.

Some spots IMO it is imperative to get the " protective " coatings completely removed, because no matter how nice it looks on the outside there is alot of ugliness underneath.

And the innards of the replacement tank

Scott - Let me know what size floor pan to order. Do I need any other pieces/small parts? Will I need new metal for the drivers sill or are you crafting what you need? Ordered an inner long stiffining kit. It's getting shipped to you. Thanks, Mark

Guys - Scott has been teriffic to work with. Couldn't imagine how bad this project could be with the wrong guy doing the work. I'm itching to get the rust work behind us and on to the paint!

Hey Mark,
just go ahead and order two of everything and also pay Scotty double that way it won't slow him down much when he gets to my car. He will be well prepared!. Thanks in advance buddy and the beer is on me for your kindness and generosity.



Shoe

Sure. I'm looking at a 3.0-6. Double up on that also? For that you have to pay for pizza.

I'll be at Hershey selling what ever I can to cover the rust repair. Seats, rockers, wheels, ect.

No, I am covered on the horsepower and suspension. I too will now probably be hauling things to Hershery to fund my paint job. I have decided to sell a complete brown interior with only 1 or 2 small flaws.

Maybe mine will be so easy after doing yours he will forget to charge me very much. Maybe so easy he will forget it was work and will settle for a couple of six packs and a good steak.

Makes mine look even better

I had a smart comment and then remembered your rebuilding my trans.
All these cars will look good when Scott gets done with them, some of us will just pay more than others.

Mine was from CA

Mine was from Jersey

I have two from California that have way more rust than the one from Missouri that I am sending to Scotty.

Fotunately I kept the sai panels and door jamb from Mikes wreck. This will be the 3rd car that has parts from Mikes old car on it. I just hope this doesn't end up like Lil Bastards parts did

Picked up the freshly cleaned and sealed tank this morning. It will be getting sanded down and painted a nice shade of satin black

Scotty, you make that all look too easy

Fotunately I kept the sail panels and door jamb from Mikes wreck.

Thanks Mike.

Does this mean we're related?

My old car was very clean. I am happy that its passing has allowed it to help others.

We should have an option on our "914 World club card" to be a "body parts donor" like the driver licence "organ donor".......

Muffler munchies

Looks like rat poison and acorns

Scott - I picked up the new (old) side shifter trans today. Will bring to Hershey. Also a bunch of trim kind of stuff. Great looking front turn signal housings and rear brake housings with lenses. Some alum trim, extra lenses, Interior trim, porsche script, ect. Even a box of parts that he wouldn't let me open until I got home. I have no idea what's in it. But he only charges me $50 for the trans and $60 for all the parts I'll post a picture in the am.

Stuff

Always a good sign when they cut the shift rod and leave the nub in the selector console

I don't know if you are kidding me or not? See you Sat.

Heh. I'm still finding acorns in the Yamaha every time I take another part off it.

Is it remarkable those varmints can get in between the transmission and the engine?

Also remarkable that Marks car looked nice before Scott started sanding - frightening what can be hidden under paint! It's on the way to looking good now!

Mepstein - someone near Philly was selling superlights about two months ago perhaps they're still available.

Not kidding, but I have replacements.

I have that same vent in my 71..

SOOOOOooooo things get uglier. I was talking to Mark today and I think sometime soon. I am going to try and sit down and write an article about what to look for when you purchase or go to restore an already purchased car. Basically what has transpired, is the car WELL PATCHED car. I have now uncoverd the worst parts yet. Whne I get to the article I will include more pics then what I am going to post here, but these should give you all some idea of what I am going to get into more detail of.
If you go back in this thread you will see where I noted some areas of concern. Well those have now been found out

This all began yesterday as I prepared to cut out the rotted floorpan section. The first thing I noticed was the funky area along the back edge of the pan, turned out to be where the pan was cut open on 3 sides with a screwdriver or chisel, that piece was folded down so the " repair " could be done, then the piece was pushed back up and the gap was filled with RTV. NO welding at all !!!

Before I went any further with the pan, I dug into the jack post and longitudinal since I already knew there were issues there. I pulled the sill plate on the drivers door, to uncover the next super fantastic "repair " The old bondo over a rust hole trick Then I started cutting the rot out to see what lay beneath

Having found more previous hatchery I then went to the pass side to do some REAL exploration and it got really nasty I had to reserve pics because my camera was getting loaded, so I haven't taken shots of how far I got, but will have more this weekend.

On the pass side I cut out the obvious and then started poking the long with a screwdriver. A slight tap from a hammer one the butt end told me all I needed to know. Mind you all of this LOOKED perfectly fine, and a gentle tap SEEMED pe4rfectly fine. A little more force proved otherwise. Before I took this first pic there was only about a 2" sectiopn at the botom of the jack post. The other holes were NOT there. They are the results of the tapping. The 3rd pic is looking in the long towards the rear, and the nasty spot that later gets worse is the backside of the engine mount.

You will also note the spot I am pointing to with the screwdriver is the passenger side SEAT BELT MOUNT!! I and others have stressed before this section of rot from the hell hole is NOT to be taken lightly. If you don;t feel very confident in tackling it DON'T !! Your wife or kids well being could be at stake. !! This is not somewhere to take shortcuts either, not only for the obvious seat belt issue, but this is a integral part of the cars structure.

Now that I have seen the spot behind the engine mount I went into the engine bay to take a closer look and saw this " patch" The next shot of the insdide of the long is after about 45 seconds of poking with a long screwdriver. No hammer, just a screwdriver and my hand. I then noticed the holes in the engine shelf were a little odd looking so upon further inspection I see that 2-3 sections from different cars had been welded together ( pretty poorly ) and had been wiped with bondo and painted. Then comes the hole.............

(four mounts come off for a six installation anyway...)

Hell......

Looks pretty good right ???

Knocked on it with a screwdriver and it felt and sounded pretty good



BUT then I started scraping it a bit and under what SHOULD have been dirt and paint was Black undercoating ?? Say it isn't so PLEASE !!!

Then the real cute one. The first pic is just a funnny looking spot on the side of the re[placement battery tray support. The dipshits didn;t even bother to remove the label before painting it. So I did it for them......23 years later Then I lifted up the battery tray to find what they didn't even bother trying to hide

The lesson here is no matter what you were told, no matter how much that APPEARS to be true. ALWAYS verify before leaping.

I post these to show people what happens when your car goes into a reputable shop, and why estimates are just that ESTIMATES. I was fooled by several of these spots, the floor pan being the first. Mark was told the car had been restored, it sat in an enclosed garage for many years, when he brought it to me and told me it had beenr estored and I looked under it, it all looked great except for a few little spots here and there. I immediately proceeded with installing his flares thinking all I would have to do rust wise was the jack points. Now I am going to have to cut sections of the new flares out, at no cost to Mark, to be able repair all of this previous handywork . Neither Marks fault nor mine, but part of the process that adds up unexpectedly.

So far ALL of the repairs I have done on this car have been previously " repaired " spots that continued to rust, with the exception of the floor pan under the drivers seat.

Since these pics, I have cut out all of the drivers side, I stopped on the passengers until I can get the integity back into the drivers side, then I will go further into the passengers. I have taken Mikes wreck and cut most of what I need for the drivers side repairs out of it, and will proceed with that tomorrow and friday. Longs will be cleaned as best as I can get them, sprayed with ospho, and then will get a coat of paint before I close them back up.

four mounts stay on for a Raby

I was not thrilled to get Scott's phone call today but really not all that surprised. Since it was the professional shop that "restored" the car also switched the vin. But the good news is that Scott has the skills to make the car right again. Never doubted for a moment that taking my car to him was the right thing to do. Just need to work a bit harder and sell some more houses. I think there are alot more cars than mine that are driving around with some severe rust issues that stay hidden up to a point. Cant wait to get the rust monster behind us and see Scott spray on some shiny red paint!

Raby 2270 is still the plan. I bought Jake's video and started to tear the motor down. Haven't ordered the kit yet (yes, I'm building it myself) because I wanted to have some extra $ just in case something like this happened. I'd rather be engine-less for a bit than not have funds to finish the car the way I want. Maybe someone local with have a spare motor I can put-put around with until the big motor is ready?

This is beginning to look like Veltror's rustoration thread.

Man! I always hated when that happened! Fortunately you have a good customer Scotty.

I had a guy wig out in my shop one day and fake a heart attack when I told him how much extra it was going to cost him to fix some other shops hack. We uncovered 4 area's that were foam filled, covered with plastic filler and painted over.
I just stared at him until he calmed down. Then he swore at me and accused me of faking the hack. I was begining to think he had turrets the way he went off on me. After this went on for about 45 minutes he was fine with the added cost and more than happy with the car. A couple years later he came back with another car. All smiles and talking about how cool it was to cruise in his big bird! (black and gold Trans Am) We politely declined the work.

BTW: Please write an article with lots of photos and put it in the classic forum.