Theo, thanks for the tour and dinner. See in in Sonoma.

Andy, I know you're a competitor. I can't forget you.

Here's the start of my engine tin, ala Root.
I had a piece of tin off a stove that protected it before install and piece of copper that already had the bend in it.

I'll drill the holes and paint it tommorrow with high temp BBQ paint ( FBF )

KT

tin. Root!

How could anyone ever forget you Andy?

The next couple of years are going to be really fun, now we have all the 914 Club people running.

With the Sac chapter of PCA running in Stockton, LPR at the Marina, GGR at Alameda and Monster Park and Zone 7 events we could be running every other weekend.

Bring lots of money for tires Andy.

My prevoius alternator problems are all squared away now!
No scraping and full 14.15 volts of charge.

The engine idles better and ramps up high rpms without the flutter with the full voltage to the coil. Very exited.

I should start tearing down the car on the 20th if all goes well. I'll take the rest of the year off of work to finish the build up.

KT

Took of the big Baja header off and all the test hoses and wires today. Motor looks a lot smaller to me.

Also marked the flywheel for timing and valve adjusts.

My goal start dates needs to be pushed back...Again.

These clients want their tile work finished.
Can you believe that?

So, looks like Dec 27th now. Driving by midnight Dec 31st seems impossible

KT

KT, are you running the engine on the ground?

I am thinking about doing that but would like to hear of any issues you had first.

Cheers

Why, yes. I do run the engine right there on the ground.

You need some simple test items.
Test exhaust ( see above ), trans bell housing, starter, oil tank and lines, test starting wire harness, fuel tank, fuel pump, and a battery.

In the picture, the blue junction box has a start switch and a coil/fuel pump power switch.

The engine will run smooth on the bench without dancing all over the place. I revved mine well over 6000 rpms with NO problems.

I'm all done testing, so it's all off now.

KT

I like pictures

I'm in.

Parts off or disconnected as of 9:45 this morning:

Battery, F.I. brain, relay board, blower motor, air cleaner and hoses, driver side injector harness, aux air regulator, misc wires.

See ya a little later.

KT

Here's what the nieghbor's get to see.
Kinda circus theme...

Here's the business end

Since our last visit more parts are off:

Muffler, muffler hanger, fuel lines, clutch cable, speedo cable, throttle cable, pass side injector harness, C.V. joints, shifter rod, battery cable and some more wires.

Hmmm... Can I drop it tonight?
I'll be out for a few hours before I can re-engage.

KT

Guess what?


It's gone...

KT

Maybe a little late but there are only 2 ten mm bolts that hold the engine lid on. I always like to make it easy on myself when insdie the engine bay.
Anyway congrats, you got alot done today.
CCLINEASYRIDER

It's really gone!

I'll miss that powerplant...Taught me a lot.
Thanks little FOUR.

KT

Trekkor, keep your car and your 10 cyls (old four & new six !) covered up from the rain coming to Cali right about now
Don't forget to take some goofy pix of yourself while your workin down in the engine bay and have yourself a Happy New Year...
Marty

Thanks, Craig, Marty.
FOUR is under a tarp and the SIX is still in the shed!

This week I hope to do the battery tray repair and cut the holes for the oil tank and install it. Plumb for cooler.

I have a little rust repair to do as well.

Tomorrow, I hope to split the trans away from the FOUR and store them away.

I am waiting to hear if a racing pressure plate is available to me or not. ( lightened/balanced/high pressure unit )

If not the clutch and pressure plate on the FOUR came off the SIX.

I may make the 12/31/04 midnight goal yet...

Stay tuned.

KT

Sweet Trekkor! You are well on your way!

QUOTE (boxstr @ Dec 26 2004, 07:19 PM)

Maybe a little late but there are only 2 ten mm bolts that hold the engine lid on. I always like to make it easy on myself when insdie the engine bay. Anyway congrats, you got alot done today. CCLINEASYRIDER

"I" notch the arms so that the lid slips on w/o having to completely pull the bolts out. Makes it easier (can be done with one person) to reinstall as well.

Here's what I'm looking at:

tray, pedestal and MPS mount- gone.

911 sport mounts- in.

yuck

cut some holes

I'm going to go get a 4-4.5 inch hole saw for the filter, too easy.

Also cut off the blower motor pedestal- gone.

I'll naval jelly all the rusty areas, then use a rust coverting paint/primer.

It looks worse than it is.

KT

Happy Hell Hole!

I just drilled my holes this past weekend PITA I was off alittle on two of my holes so they ended up not so round

Talk about TORQUE

I also test fitted the oil tank..WTF that thing doesn't just slide in? It took some doing to get the oil tank into position.

Looks good keep the photos coming.

Did the BIG HOLE today.

QUOTE

Talk about TORQUE

That was a challenge not to break my wrist.
I didn't even take the label off, just sawwed through it too.

Anyone need a *new* hole saw.

chasing rust...

top view.
Looks bad, I know. Not one bit of rust on the lower longs, motor mount ears or suspension console.

Quite a pile of dirt fell out when I popped the rocker off.

I'll do battle some more tonight.

KT

QUOTE

Anyone need a *new* hole saw.

I'm next... send it on.

Your 4" hole is rounder then mine That just doesn't sound right.

Have you decided on what to use for a hole edge liner?


I am sure you know, but make sure you drilled the hole in the shelf for the lowest oil hose to pass into the engine bay. There should be a flat spot already there.

Looks good

QUOTE

hole edge liner

Two possibilities.
plastic u-channel or braided German vacuum line that I will carefully razor cut to make it into a u-channel.

QUOTE

the hole in the shelf for the lowest oil hose to pass into the engine bay

Got it, too. Thanks

KT

I finished the rust repair.

I found a nice tube to use as oil tank hole liner.
It's soft vinyl drip irrigation tubing. Found it in white.
Cut it into u-channel, nice fit.

Tomorrow I will paint the engine bay, install the oil tank, maybe the SIX, too.

The area under my car is crazy messy right now.
It looks like my tool shed blew up.


KT

Clutch is on...

Engine mount bar is also on...

If you have an extra hood the black trim on the edge can be used for the oil tank holes.
CCLINEDGY

Trekkor, do you have the right engine oil cooler for your 6 ? The one in the jpeg seems to have a straight fitting on the end...you need a hard 90, which will clear the undercarriage. I'm just checking...
Marty

Can't I just use a 90 fitting off the cooler?

Will there be a clearance issue?

KT

Marty's right What are you going to do ?

You have an early oil cooler, 72 and later has a bigger inlet tube on the cooler. and to make it work you can saw it flush with end of the cooler, pipe thread it ,and screw in an 3/4pipe to -12 AN ,90 elbow . use some epoxy too. Or weld it. Thats the simple way. But you need the later oil cooler.

Dan Root, uses your cooler saws it off and slides the hose over and clamps it.
Works ,but there is better ways .

Someone makes a machined piece that is welded to the end of the cooler.

Find a six cooler. But You have a Vellios tank that uses AN fittings,so thats a problem.
Have someone weld a AN -12 90 to your cooler.
I am sure there is other ways also.

Do you know what chain tensioners are in the motor ?
you may want to look and make sure they have gaurds on at the least.
Its easy now with the motor out.
Hope this helps Jeff

That dam oil cooler

Seems like the best price I found was $115 to modify your cooler to have a 90deg fitting welded on.

The hose route is the easiest and cheapest but maybe not the "correct" way??? IIRC this hose is a low pressure line so hose clamps will work.

I am holding off on making my choice for mine. I will see how the funds hold up over the next few months.

QUOTE

the "correct" way

This motor in my car will never be correct.

If the oil system functions and doesn't leak, for me, that's correct.

I may have a hard line made. I may use Porsche fittings on one end and AN's on the tank end of the oils lines.

I'm not picky. I want it to work. Look good. And last.
I you don't like that, don't go under my car.

Factory original, concours, all matching parts.

I need to know if the cooler that I have, with it's exit will work or not. Does it come close to the chassis or body when in the car or not.

T,

Take it from me....I've done a few conversions....the easiest, stoopid proof way is to use braided aircraft line and AN fittings.....as to the tank....two ways.

You can used the adapter conversion fittings to AN or cut the Porsche fitting off and weld an AN fitting on. Depending on how good a welder you are or how much you pay to have it done...the welded AN/Porsche fitting is the best...the conversion ones are fine, but tend to reduce space and have a few more leak paths....

Trekkor,

I can't quite see it in the picture.. so I'm not absolutely positive which cooler you have there....

but a 911 cooler will interfere at the suspension ear if its not modified in one of the above ways...

doesn't have to be concours stock, but does have to be modified to clear.

people are probably sick of this picture, but here is a shot of one modified:


brant

I'd like to see some more pics of this area.

You have about 2 3/4 inches from the cooler to the side of the trailing arm.
That does not include the threaded fitting sticking out from the side of your cooler.
Sorry no picture .

OK, Here's a shot lookin' up at the area.

And here's one looking forward.

here's my cooler.
Is the suggestion to remove the cooler, weld it, re-install it?

Brant's set-up looks good.

KT

JP, those shots were perfect.
Thanks!

KT