finished product

I think your testing the garage isn't a true test of your theory due to the ambient temperatures and the volume air space in the garage. By recirculating heated air in the passenger compartment of your car (instead of introducing outside air), I think you'll achieve higher temperatures.

... But it's still going to be difficult to get meaningful heat out of any 12V system ... 100 watts (a light bulb!) is about 8 amps, which is a fair bit. To get 1200 watts, which is a decent amount of heat, you need 100 amps. That's a HUGE amount of current... In fact, that's somewhat more than the stock alternator is capable of producing.

--DD

Took advantage of an extra day off to finish up some my suspension parts.

- Camber Adjustment Plates & upper shock washer) (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal gold)
- Camber Plate, Front Bushing mount, Cross member Bolt Heads (eastwood rust encapsulator)
- Front sway bar bushing mounts (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with eastwood chassis black)
- Torsion bar adjusters (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal gold)
- Star lock washers for balljoints (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal silver)
- Caps for torsion bar tube in control arms. (rust encapsulator, will tap into pace after arms are installed and torsion bars inserted.)

After they sit overnight, I will cure in oven at 200 for an hour tomorrow. This is essential to finish the curing of the VHT paint. Of course I have NO idea if this eastwood rust encapsulator stuff will work, but at least I tried.....

Still have more cleaning of: front sway bar, strut housings and control arms then they get painted.

Also cleaned and started prepping for paint:
- Gravel Tray - (rust encapsulator and antichip guard chassis black paint)
- Axle shafts - (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal silver)
- Engine mount cross bar. (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal silver)
- Transmission Mount and weight. (rust encapsulator and antichip guard chassis black paint)
- Gas Tank - (rust encapsulator and antichip guard chassis black paint)

**That ends the terrible terrible task of cleaning the rust and dirt and grime of 30+ years and just sitting and rotting parts..... I may have a few odd and ends, but no more piles of rusty parts and pieces..... at least I think........ lol

I still have a pile of stuff to paint that was stripped and cleaned some time ago, chiefly:
- Engine Tins (rust treated then VHT gloss blach high heat case paint)
- Fan housing (Satin black)
- Engine Case (VHT silver after assembly)
- Cyls (light coat of VHT flat black)

It is amazing how rusted and crappy it all was. Layers and layers, and I'm glad I am doing this, as left unattended, these parts would have failed due to rust. Hopefully, the treatments and top coat of fresh paint will extend life for a few more years, and allow me to replace over time. I dont mind the extra time to R&R these parts, as I would have to buy them otherwise...... no think you.

I also installed the shift knob on the shifter, installed and then uninstalled the blue clutch helper spring (?? how this works makes no sense) finished cleaning the transmission body itself, and reinstalled the clutch throwout bearing arm, shaft and seals. I used the synthetic brake caliper grease for this. Ist great stuff, easy on plastics, repels/resists water, Doesnt ever melt out or run, and is stable in the coldest of temps.

That may help too, but the biggest problem is too much airflow through the element overpowers the element's heat capacity. I went too high on CFM's. I played around with airflow,and when I lowered the airspeed, limited flow, I was able to get the temp rise up to 20. I have some further refinements, and will likely add a potentiometer to the fans to control speed. lower CFM will allow better heat absorbtion. I wsa going to get normal 40CMF fans but was concerned they wouldnt flow enough air. These fans put out over 125CFM's. They are super quiet and powerful. The air comes out of the housing almost blow dryer speed.

I am eliminating the air exchangers (well dr rusto did that) Though I dont expect to get real hot heat, I'm hoping for some warm, and to have strong airflow for defogging etc. These boxes will be mounted in the footwell areas on both sides. I will remove the stock heat tube (from rocker panel to ducting under dash) and insert these with some other tubing. If by chance one day I am able to find heat ex changers, or another viable alternative, I can pull these out, reinstall the factory blower and install exchangers.

Phase 2 of the build will include new upholstery/seats and electric elements in front seats. Will NOT be a winter car anyway, mostly spring-fall.

Had some free time so I figured I'd add all my latest purchases to my excel spreadsheet and was shocked at the list..... 3 years of parts hording, is nice to be assembling! Am painting the strut housings and front control arms as I type this. Good Lord, I had no idea.............. But as I look over the list I am happy with my purchases and prices I paid. Still have some things to get, particularly the interior and cosmetic/body, but it looks like the mechanical part is almost finished. Now that the cleaning and stripping is complete, it is time to build.

Front struts painted & inserts assembled. The Paint was much harder to work with than the Eastwood and VHT I've been using, took 8 hours to be tack free. Treated the rusty areas, then a self etching primer then the topcoat of the Rustoleum Farm equipment paint. Gets good reviews we will see. I know they aren't Bilstein struts, but I had to paint the housings so why not.

I cleaned out the inside of the housing real well, and dabbed a little bit of grease on the insert to help with removal (if I ever do that) as well as to help with possible rattles. The cap diddnt screw down to the top of the housing (1-2 threads showing) but I diddnt try that hard. Will re-tighten before mounting in car.

Also did a quick fit test with the upper mounts looks like the US Spec big fat washer will not be used.

Finished the control arms today, hard to believe they once looked like this.
Second Pic is after I wire brushed and cleaned
Third & fourth pic is after I JB Welded the SS sleeves for the Rebel Racing CA bushings. Very tight tolerances, and very smooth movement. Bushings on the control arms. All that is left or the front suspension is to R&R the sway bar & gravel tray.

Third & fourth pic is after I JB Welded the SS sleeves for the Rebel Racing CA bushings. Very tight tolerances, and very smooth movement. Bushings on the control arms. All that is left or the front suspension is to R&R the sway bar & gravel tray.

There's a fellow on dorkiphus.net who just bought a 912E from CA and posted about it. He's from Gaithersburg, MD and his user name is DrBellPepper. You two need to connect ...

Steve, check into the 924 alternator...I think it had an air guide plate attached to the back of the alternator. The 912e will be a sought after Porsche, especially retaining all stock equipment. Low production quantity, only built for the U.S. market , and I've been watching prices creeping up.
We built just about all of the 912e shorty Thermal headers for those cars in the day, sold under the brand names; Automotion, Eurasian Automotive, PB Tweeks, Auto Atlanta, AutoGear . Our headers were
a great upgrade considering the crude oe design of Thermal reactors. Porsche even
put an oil drip channel on top of the reactors...to guide the dripping v/c gasket oil off of
the reactors ! We still keep a few n/o/s reactor headers in stock.
Excellent restoration btw !
Marty

Thanks Marty, will check it out.

I eliminated the thermal reactors, replaced with the Bursch pipes don't need them and I cant imagine how the car ran with them the clearances are so small. You wouldn't happen to have any heater boxes would you?

Sorry Steve, no HBs in my stock. One of my 912e customers is in the process of rebuilding his perforated HBs...then sending to our ceramic contractor.
He had a hard time finding his, even in bad shape.
Marty

A customer of mine has a very solid set of 912E HX to sell.. I'll see if he still has them.

If you get a chance and it's not a pita, I would love to see some detailed pics of a thermal reactor for a type 4 motor.

Does it loop back the gases somehow to reburn things?

No, its basically a catalytic converter. Here are a few pics. The Bursch Pipes are a straight pass the same basic size as the exhaust port and header pipes. The T/R's have an inner housing/tube in the center that the cut clearance to about 1/4 inch

These cars are better off without the thermal reactors. Mine passes DEQ without. They store a lot of heat that bakes the oil after the engine is shut down. The concept works while the car has air flowing, but not so much after shut down.
Save a pair for the CW that may buy it, but if you plan to drive it no need for these.

I have a type IV in the back of a 67 912, the PO used VW 412 headers that required very little modification to the heat exchangers to have working heat, a bursch exhaust (IIRC) was modified to fit up, sounds very nice

See post #132 in link below

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1896093

Andy

Slow but steady progress, just finished the engine mount bar, gravel tray, sway bar, axle shafts. All waiting to be put back on the car. Good news as well, I thought I was missing one CV joint circlip, but when I dug them out, I had all 4. I thought I had destroyed one getting it apart, but in retrospect that was one of the piston circlips. Starting on the engine tins next, and have the fan housing out for a good cleaning.

Hopefully will finish prepping the chassis of the car to recieve all the newly reconditioned parts.

Well, progress slowed for a bit, finally refinished the spring plates and prepped for the Rebel Racing Bushings. I just need to finish cleaning the front hubs, will likely repaint, but not sure, and then it is time to start putting it back on the chassis! Hopefully will get at ti next week. I have a little cleanup to do on the rear chassis/underbody still, but now I have completed the suspension tear off rebuild/restore and reassembly. Spreading the parts purchases and bargain hunted over TWO years!

Bear with me as I make my list of what I have/plan to do.

FRONT SUSPENSION
- Refreshed upper camber plates and Rebel Racing poly strut mounts
- Refreshed/repainted strut housings with SACHS inserts, all new OEM upper and lower small hardware
- New Ball joints on refreshed/repainted front control arms with Rebel Racing Bushings
- Repainted (surface rust) torsion bars, height adjusters, torsion bar seals
- Turbo Tie rods and steering rack spacer, regreased steering rack and refreshed/painted crossmember
- Refreshed/repainted gravel tray and gravel tray seal
- Refreshed/repainted front sway bar and stock rubber bushings

REAR SUSPENSION
- Refreshed/repainted spring plates w/ Rebel Racing Bushings
- New SACHS rear shocks
- Degrease rear control arms
- Treat rust/paint chassis and undercarriage

BRAKES F&R - upgrade to 76 911 running gear
- New HD Master CYL
- New Zimmerman Vented Rotors F&R
- Rebuilt ATE calipers F&R
- New rubber & hard lines
- New OEM Pads & hardware kits
- Repainted/refreshed brake dust shield

MISC
- NOS/OEM Fag wheel bearings seals and races
- Lucas HD wheel bearing grease
- Teflon fitting grease
- Cable luber for Ebrake cables

Nice work!

Finally some Progress, bolted on the front suspension! Most went very well, a few snafu's but the Rebel Racing Bushings went in well. I need to redo one of the Ball Joint pin/bolts, as it wouldnt seat all the way and I discovered that the 912E front sway bar is skinnier than the 911, but all is looking great. Regret the gold disk brake dust shield (looks dumb IMO). Had a great day of father son bonding, and progress on the car.

Views of the Rebel Racing Bushings. Install was straightforward, very smooth range of motion, just barely enough to hold the position it is left in. Haven't tightened to final torque, will do when back on ground.

More views

My son is home from college for the summer, was great to work together on this. He did a great job cleaning up the rear trailing arms, and prepping rear wheel wells and lower chassis. Solid worker and skills! Was great. He never really liked changing oil/plugs, etc, but this he is really into and we had a blast.

A few more random shots. Next up is prepping the openings for the rear radius arm/spring plate Bushing. The holes had some significant rust and piting, will likely need to grind a bit. Surprisingly the torsion bars came out fairly easy. After a minute or two of hard wiggling and circular movements, a very slight wiggle and pressure and POP they came right out. I was ready for an all day fight, but we were very fortunate. Bars looked great.

Nice

Sometimes I wished we had some kids. Only sometimes though

Making progress, was able to finish the rear suspension over the weekend. The rebel racing Bushings are well made and perfectly machined and line up with the mounts. They are a little pricey, but the benefit of smooth suspension movement, ease of install, dis-assembly for setting ride height and the fact they are flat out awesome looking make it worth while. Installation was straight forward, but a little nerve racking. Key is proper prep of torsion bar tube, and I'd recommend to fully test install the bushings and swing-arm with spacers and tightened down before installing the torsion bars. This part is time consuming. Looking forward to seeing how the car rides with the smooth virtually free moving suspension front and rear (as opposed to the tight twisting rubber setup that the car had stock) I'm hoping for a smooth responsive suspension. Also installed the new vented rear rotors, amazing difference in size. Pics follow.

Things are progressing, I was able to source the correct Calipers, sourced a set of 'A' calipers for an 83, and they bolted right up to the strut and proper spacing and fitment to the rotor, so GOOD NEWS on that regard. Bolted them up put on the tires and I have a rolling chassis again!

This means I can get back to bodywork. Last summer over ab out 6 days of straight work, I was able to get the body stripped down to bare metal, then the two step PPG 579/520 metal conditioning outlined in pelican under bodywork. MUCH has been said about how long you can leave bare metal left untreated, and my experience is that these panels showed NO evidence of rust for the first 9 months and only began showing some flash or surface rust mid June or July. I ran out of steam, and time and one thing led to the next, and winter came, so I decided to put the car on stands, strip the suspension parts and restore them over the winter. Now that it is all back together it was time to revisit the body work, getting it ready for the body shop.

Last year I just focused on the exterior panels not the back or crevices, etc. so in addition to going over the whole body again with 80 grit with a DA sander, I also had to do all the joints and back of the panels. Not to many trouble spots, and will trust Scotty B (autobody shop doing my paint) to sort them out. After I re-conditioned all the parts (man I REALLY don't like spraying water on bare metal) it was time to address all the remaining paint and areas that would be covered with primer, as well as the back side of some of the panels. Talk about a NEVER ending job! I've done small projects before but never something at this level. It took another 3-4 days of sanding, grinding cleaning prepping, sanding cleaning and I was finally done.

I was super stressed about actually spraying, and though I have pretty good rattle can skills, I had never sprayed paint with an air gun, never mind 2 part epoxy. Would I set the gun right? what ratio paint/hardener/reducer to use, would it stick? LOL The kit I bought came with two guns a 1.4 and 1.8 (not that I know what the heck the difference is) so I hooked up the 1.8 filled it with water and sprayed away teaching myself how the gun worked. Once I was more confident I hooked up the 1.4 gun, cleaned it with some reducer by spraying it, and setting the gun to where I felt it would spray well.

Then I set up my makeshift panel stands hung the fenders hood and door, mixed the paint and wiped the panels down with pre paint cleaner AND IT STARTED TO RAIN...... lol Of course all goes inside. Wait an hour no go, wait till the next day deal with a few flash rust spots from rain, repeat wipe down and tac cloth, start pouring out paint AND RAIN..... At this point I was ready to quit. It was Sunday, and Monday was Labor day. But I got up Monday morning, the sun was out and I figured one last time. Third time was a charm. I set everything up, mixed and sprayed the individual panes first, then as they dried I rolled the chassis out of the Garage, masked and prepped the body and shot the paint.

VERY happy with the results, the primer sprayed beautifully, only one area of runs which was the first piece I painted (fender), and only one area with orange peel which was my second piece (engine lid), The rest went very well, and now I am anxious about prep. Will the primer stick? did the pre-cleaner leave a residue, did I mix correctly, etc etc. Whatever, the body is sealed and I leave it to the Scotty B and his expertise at the paint shop to go from here.

Materials/supplies
PPG 579/520 metal conditioning
TCP Global 2 Part Epoxy Primer
PPG medium reducer
Mercedes source Miracle Paint
El cheapo harbor freight 1.4 nozzle air gun 100 lbs at wall, 45 lbs at gun with two water separators, one before and one after the regulator.
Makita 5600 Air Compressor
Eastwood DA sander & 8million discs... lol

Pics follow

A few more pics. and the starting point. NEXT for the chassis is Paint and time to start building the motor.

Looking good Steve. Once you get that 6 built she'll be pretty sweet

Yeah, about that, I seem to have lost two of the pistons and cyls, looks like I'll just have to do it with 4. But on the bright side, it will have closer to a 50/50 weight balance now!

Very nice. I would be interested to hear about the RSR bushings after your first ride. I'm concerned about the stiffness. I would really like to get a 912 before they become too expensive

Thanks

David

Time to buy the AFM, Anyone using this? I like that it has a voltmeter built in and can expand to other modules (pricey) http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php...WDBDSMAFR_DM6G3

I pulled the switch on the PLX, is a Gen 3, looks to be a good deal from the manufacturers now that their Gen 4 is out. It comes with a 10 foot cable but also a 1 foot pigtail. This is 11 feet to the Module, then there is a 4 foot cable that goes from the module to the gauge so I think I should be OK as far as cable length.

I plan to mount the AFM/Voltmeter in between a fuel gauge and clock (52MM VDO) in a 3 gauge bracket where the ash tray was, will likely need to widen the opening a bit. The nice thing about the PLX is that is it super low profile, and could be mounted elsewhere very easily. I added the dual pressure/temp gauge from a 911 and also plan to delete the fuel gauge and clock, and replace them with dash vents from a Ford F150 connected to a fan with a heater element and filter. I'll be using one of the heater boxes I made when I was trying to create a heat exchanger option.

I picked up a 52mm VDO clock and fuel gauge (VW beetle type). I attached a pic of my proposed layouts, as well as a pic of the ford vent.

Not sure if I will keep or sell the stock clock and fuel gauge. Believe it or not the original clock still works.

Woohoo, dropped of #770 at Scotty B's shop for some TLC & Paint! cant wait to see it back in its original color! I almost cant believe it.... Time to get serious on building the motor! In addition to repairing some of the weak/rusted panels, (spot on door, fender, rear window) he is going to prep, block & paint, as well as set the headliner and front/rear windscreens...

Of course when backing on the trailer the throttle cable got pulled down and pushed forward and under the car so I couldn't see it and is now toast as a result of being dragged for 150 miles, oy

I have a bit of cleanup to do in the garage and paint the tins/fan case, then it is assembly time. Now I'm getting nervous. Two areas I will need the most help with is valve geometry and setting up the carbs. First is to get a magnifying glass so I can actually read what is stamped on the jets etc,

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

I put Ben on it today. Will have some pics this weekend in it's first coat of high build. this one should go quickly since the car is in such good shape and Steve did so much of the prep work Doo doo brown here we come

Look forward to the pics! I dropped a package in the mail with the fender/door bolts, hood & trunk latches, as well as some other misc hardware including the small body panel that goes behind the front fender bellows. I will bring the headliner and windshield/seals/molding when it is time.

What.......... you dont like "bitta chocolate?" Its not the 'nicest' color on the planet and I almost went for BRG or Ivory, but this was what it rolled from the factory in. Pic of BC below is my visual 'target' but I do like the Ivory and BRG as well.

One day, I would love to have a color schemed car that in 1973 caused me to obsess over the 911...... I am psyched over the car I have and looking forward to putting bitter chocolate back on it though.

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I need to talk to my helper about his picture taking There was a crunched spot of the front of the drivers quarter. The ONE pic he took was after he pulled it out. As of yesterday the main body has been blocked down and skim coated where needed, as are the passenger door and both fenders. I'll probably be putting a couple coats of high build on Monday night

Everything is in high build and will sit for a week or tw to setup good. I ran out of donor fenders for the dog leg area that always rots out, so it was metal smashing time. Also had a broken bolt to extract

Epoxy sealer followed by a couple coats of high build. Where's that spray gun smilie ?

Looking great!

Took the opportunity of a day off to finish up a few stray ends, finished painting the fan housing and tins. Will let cure for a few days then 'bake'

Used VHT Gloss on the tins, Satin on the fan housing, and the super high temp flat on the lower tin in hopes it will stand up to heat better. After cleaning up the fan housing, I treated the severely corroded parts, then a hi temp self etching primer and top coated with VHT

The finishing of these parts brings my strip sand, clean and repaint mode to an end, and NOT TOO SOON..... I must admit motivation was low for these parts. The aluminum on the housing was very distressed and it took 3-4 attempts to get all the loose powdery residue and oxidized stuff off. I was very surprised at the amount of corrosion, but given that there was standing water in and on the engine, and fan (all was corroded and rusted together) and that the entire engine compartment was a nest of many years and layers of nests and varmints, I guess it is to be expected. I was able to save all the hard parts, and most cleaned up well, though with some major pitting.

When Len Hoffman rebuilt the heads, me mentioned that there was some significant pitting he couldnt polish out in the intake tracts but not to be worried because "the increased turbulance will likely be benificial" lol.

Anyhow, Now it is time for assembly! Woohoo!

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more

small and side pieces. After cleaning I had some significant holes in the tin, used an old method with the mercedes source miracle paint and layers of fiberglass mesh to fill gaps. Not perfect, but good enough.

Fan Shroud Mockup with "Porsche " plate" I know, a bit cheesy, but I wanted to do something in the engine compartment and found this plate, thought it would look good. Has an adhesive back, but is metal and I will drill and rivet in the corners.

All blocked down for the last time. A few spots showed up and were addressed and spot primed. And a splash of glossy poo on the insides Depending on how my back is doing next week I may be able to get the rest of the car painted. Then all that will be left is the bumpers and valances