I never paid much attention to the 912E set up, but with additional length of the fan housing (as opposed to the type 616 912 motor), looks like the a T4 takes as much room as a '6'.

I really like the look of the Metal/aluminum engine grill of the 912, and in this Restomod of #770, and decided to go for that look as opposed to the black plastic of the 911 that was on the 912E. I cleaned up the grill scuffed up the slats with 60 grit paper, primed and painted with 5-6 coats of Rustoleum Professional enamel. The tape lifted a bit in one section between coats and I didn't see it so I have a little touch-up, but I am happy with the look. It will likely peel over time, but for now it looks great. The silver flecks in the pics are not paint over spray but the plastic itself.

Engine Update:

I decided I really diddnt like the look of the Hex bar, so I broke down and ordered the Tangerine Cable Throttle kit and ITG Air Filters..... I'm at the 'hide the receipts' point from the wife ;-) lol......

Made a ton of progress this week, my dad came up and we spent 5 days working on the car. Assembled the doors/windows, lights, front fenders, and a ton of electrical wiring. Only one major snafu. Woohoo!

When I disassembled the doors I did a tutorial, will also do one for the reassembly, particularly the drivers fender...... learned a few things along the way that may be helpful for those who work on a 911 chassis.

First up is the Gauge cluster, this is how much of the bolster needed to be cut away to fit the triple gauge. Then all gauges installed and bracket mounted, and a mockup of the center console. Am replacing the stock fuel gauge and clock with dash vents and moved those two to the cluster with a CHT. The PLX AFM will go over the hole just to the left of the climate controls. I took the lighting and power leads from the clock to run the back-lighting of the gauges and to power the clock.

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I finished the electrical wiring at least in the trunk and panel, still lots to do under the dash. Headlight relays, fog light relay and a 40 amp accessory fuse block that runs off a relay switched by the ignition. I have the radio and aux fan hooked into this and have spots for 5 more if needed. Due to the changing of the headlight circuits I also have two new free spots on the old stock fuse panel. Everything tucked up nicely with teh fuel tank installed..... far too nicely, lol. I had NO idea how much space the tank took up and it was by the grace of God that it all fit.

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Highbeams and Fogs. Who needs HID?

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Some looks at the 90% assembled Body. Not thrilled with the taillights or center reflector, but they are OK. I rehabbed both, glued, polished/painted, and replaced the side reflectors. Eventually will go for new, just needed to save $$. They are functional. I will probably repaint the tail light trim satin black as well as the reflector, the gloss black and silver just don't work. I do LOVE the silver accents on the engine grill though.

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And finally a pic of my dad, who did a great job, detailing, cleaning and keeping me sane ;-) We really had a great week. Built a Porsche, Burnt Meat & Drank Beer.........

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Not to neglect the engine, this week I found the wiring harness clips and coil mount, so I painted them up and installed today.....

It's really cool that your dad is involved in your project

I lost my dad 29 years ago - we had plans to travel the country to find and restore some classic cars.

Nice progress! Who will be installing your windshield and trim?

This is a great thread, keep it going!

Really nice car.

John

I have a thread on the Pelican 911 BBS detailing door panel removal, disassembly, etc. Another one on the electric window mechanism clock-spring as well. I wrote those up after fixing the wife's 82 SC.

--DD

dave where on 911bbs do i find your writeup on door?

Scotty B

What does your engine bar look like?

This isn't my bar, but this is what it looks like. The 912E uses the same transmission mounts as teh 911 but the engine mounts are different, there is a U bracket on the bottom of the frame rail that the bar mounts to.

Thanks for posting that. We picked up a 69 912 and are doing the Type IV. We have 912E tin. That bar looks easy enough. I though about adapting a 911 bar to the Type IV. But that looks easier to fab.

Rick, I think Mark DeBernardi still sells body mounts for the 912 T-4 conversion. Might save you some time.

I'll see him next month...

Car is coming along nice Steve!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...oor-panels.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...regulators.html

--DD

Finally got the car off jackstands, and ready to head back to Scotty B for front and rear windshields and headliner.

Progress has slowed a bit, but moving.

The car is getting some love, painting the gauge surround, installing A & B pillar Vinyl, dash, headliner and front/rear windscreens.

I upgraded the window seals to OEM/Porsche got great deals from FCP Euro and ECS TUning if anyone is looking for them. And alas, I added two more things to my long list of new parts I'm not using..... Ah the folly of the unwashed.

Filled the Tranny with Gear Oil today, and a few other house keeping issues before I connect it to the motor and install it in the car net week. After reading way too much, I decided to go for a standard dead dino 75/90 gear oil. I have NO idea what this trans mission is like or even if it has a problem. Once I drive it a bit and get a feel for how the syncros are, I may change it, but mostly think the $30/bottle snake oil is just snake oil.

The engine as it sits, I'm not going to put the carbs on until after it is in the car. Painters tape over openings and over the studs.
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Transmission on the bench for fluid fill.
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Well, after getting the car back from Scotty B who installed a new headliner and front/rear glass, I hung the motor, and towed #770 cross country without issue (other than 3 of 5 days being rain.....) Been doing a few odds and ends, and while test fitting the carbs and air filters I discovered that the old air filter platform had to be removed to fit the carbs, and also that the ITG and Tall CB Performance filters will not clear the trunk lid arms.... Fun times. A few other fitment issues, but working on them.

Anyone have experience with this? I don't remember seeing any issues with either having to cut off the FI air filter platform.

Here are a few pics of the Trailer Ride across country.

The Halfway Point, Sioux falls
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Stopped at the Badlands
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Arrived at Joint Base Lewis McChord
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Overall the car traveled well. I wasn't thrilled with all the rain, but it was a good test of weatherproofing. I did tape stuff and cover the intakes, Dizzy and tailpipe with a ziplock bag, so hopefully kept any water out.

Try
S+B Filters
Ontario, California.
They make/stock many shapes + sizes, all with high flow washable cotton filter material.
Keep your base and tops, just drop your dimension in the filter height.
Marty

It's coming together nicely Steve!

You will be very soon.

Intake manifolds come in different widths too. See if you can find a set of them.

It looks like an inch on each side just might do the trick

There are some shorter dual throat Webber manifolds out there, but I am not sure who may have them today. The CB style now seem to be the standard for type 4 applications. I bought a pair of short manifolds from PMO many years ago, when they used to advertise 914 Type 4 Webber carb kits in the PCA Panorama magazine. I don't know if PMO still deals with Type 4 carbs, but if you want to try a shorter manifold you might contact them and ask if the short manifolds are still available or who made them.

what are those 6"+/- tall filters?

I got them from Chris at Tangerine Racing.

I'll keep my eyes open for any spare manifolds while I'm packing up my shop, but I think I may have already sold off all of them.

A few years ago I bought an engine with intakes and carbs, but no throttle crossbar. I had a spare crossbar but it was too short - by at least 2 inches. I installed a narrower set of manifolds and all was well. I don't know who made either set of manifolds, they didn't have any brand markings

You might give George at European Motor Works (EMW) a call to explain your dilemma and see what's available. A lot of the parts that retail shops sell come from EMW (310 644-8038)

There are shorter manifolds. I've also seen ones which go up straighter so the filters would be closer to the engine centerline.
The ones I usually work with are what Pierce Manifolds sells.

I can get ITG filters 1 1/2 inches shorter.

The fuel inlet interfering with the air cleaner mounting plate is something I haven't seen. Your inlets are different. A spacer plate would solve that.

They're 100mm.

Thanks Chris, that should work, but hold off a bit. I will measure tomorrow to make sure that will be enough. I just looked at the Pierce Manifold site, does anyone know the height/spacing of those manifolds? I got these manifolds with the Carbs. Ah the joy of customizing........

I was recently browsing Aircooledtechguy's build thread and came across these photos of his shortening a pair of manifolds. This build thread is full of great tech ideas and procedures. Thanks for sharing Nate.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0739&st=200

I shortened a set of PMO manifolds for my race car.

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sheet summa a beech................... I diddnt know the windshield wipers are reversed on this car.................. yeah, bolted them up today, had them pulled up turned on to test and promptly gouged the paint.............. I think I scared my neighbors with my NY inspired flood of language................ Pissed beyond words.........

I also finalized my aux fan system. Pushes about as much air as the stock system. Began sorting out the rear fuse box and wiring harness as well as did a wiring harness and ran wires for the new sensors (CHT, Oil Pressure, AAFM) and the starter relay.

Turns out the little black relays aren't working, they click, but don't send power out. Is this a common type of failure?

On another note, the Headlight switch also freaked out today, suddenly out of the blue, the dimmer for the dash lights turns the headlights on and off.... lol. The only thing that I did was install the gauges, not sure if that would cause a circuit to loop back and cause this. Will recheck tomorrow. OY

Not really.

You can test them with a battery and a multimeter. Check for continuity between pins 30 and 87a when no power is connected to the other pins. You should have it. Then apply +12V to pin 85 and ground to pin 86. There should no longer be continuity between 30 and 87a; instead it should be between 30 and 87. (You can swap power and ground between 85 and 86 and get the same result.)

If either one of those fails, then the relay really is borked. You can often pop the plastic cap off the base to look at the insides--it is just an electromagnet and a switch. When current flows between 85 and 86, the magnet pulls the switch so it bridges from 30 to 87, when the current isn't flowing between 85 and 86, there's a spring that pulls the contact form 30 over to 87a.

--DD

Sorry about the paint. This very reason is why I test out the wipers on cars I restore by using a "flag" of tape wrapped around the shaft before mounting the arms and blades. By doing this I can test the speeds and park position without running them dry on the windshield and it also prevents the problem you have.

Thanks Dave, I confirmed that the relay is good, as is the power circuit to activate the relay. The issue is no power at 30, so I need to track that down. So far it is the only circuit with no power. There is also no power at the fuse, so I need to pull the panel off and look, but want to check wiring from the front, not sure if this is a direct to the battery of front fuse box.

** Edit, figured it out, the power feed to the rear fan comes from a wire connected to the alternator. I went out, connected all the wires under the car, alternator, starter, starter relay and WALLAH...........

Gents, I hope to wrap up the gauge wiring and tangerine cable throttle linkage this weekend, then prime the oil system and install the upper valve train.

A few pics of engine compartment and throttle cable install.

A few Electrical Q's.

1. Now that I have gone to carbs and eliminated the FI brain, What is the best way to run power to the fuel pump, just a switched power feed?

2. I did up a diagram to illustrate the Pertronix install, but have a question about grounding the coil. Nothing I could find in the pertronix instructions said anything about grounding the negative lead of the coil, but to connect the black wire from the module. My GUESS is that the module and coil are grounded by the distributor and the wire between the two accomplishes this. YES? NO? I'd prefer to do a direct ground for the coil just for power supply, but......

Do not ground the coil directly!! It grounds through the points, or in this case through the Pertronix. (The other circuit in the coil grounds through the spark plugs.)

Sir Andy did a write-up on adding a jumper to one of the pins in the four-pin connector on the relay board so that the fuel pump relay would power the pump when you are running carbs. It's an old thread, but a search should turn it up.

AFAIK, there are no power wires that come off the alternator. Just the one large-ish red wire from the starter, which shares a stud with the fat battery (+) cable. There would be several wires attached to the battery end of that cable, on the terminal that fits around the battery post. Sounds like someone has replaced the cable at some point (not the worst idea!) and hooked one of the power wires to the alternator. Which is a bit odd.

--DD

Thanks Dave, that's what I thought, but wasn't sure that the lead from the module could carry enough current for the coil.

I'll look up that thread on the jumper. I may just power the fuel pump off the switched acc relay I installed in the front, seems silly to run power from the front to the back to run it all the way to the front again. I'd like to retain the stock wiring as much as possible,

Well, I finally got all the upper gauges wired in properly, new gauge and indicator lights, everything seems to be working including the high beam and parking light indicators. Also installed the Momo.

Ran in to a few snafu's still need to work it out (maybe) for some reason the ground wire (ground) was energized with 12V when the key was on. This of course created all kinds of havoc, primarily activating the headlights when the dimmer was turned on, as well as the gauges acting funny. I traced the wire back into the dash and it looks like it runs down to a plug into a module? I just eliminated it and ran a fresh ground for the gauges and backlight.

So I now have in the upper dash Oil temp & pressure with oil and alt idiot lights from a 911, stock tach and stock speedo. I also removed the EGR light and put a fan switch (from a 911 AC system) for the new dash vents that bank the upper gauges.

Now I need to finish wiring in the lower gauges, to include a gas gauge, CYL head temp, clock (2"VDO) and a PLX Air Fuel/Volt meter. All the lower VDO gauges will be lit off the gauge lighting circuit including dimmer function, and LED indicators for the fog lights, low fuel and new aux fan. The PLX will come on with the ignition. Its not stock, and the purist may hate it, but I kinda like it

Dash almost complete with MOMO steering wheel
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Good view of all gauges. I have the PLX mounted with EZpass style velcro, I moved it down a bit to be more center.
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Here is the offending 12V ground wire, and some of the new wires I had to run, the yellow is the Oil Pressure, and green is new ground. I also had to run an eztra 12V switched lead for the double gauge.
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Gauges and Dash done!

Making Progress, finally rebuilt and installed the CV Joints and axle shafts, and wired in the 'hot start' starter relay, removed the spark plugs and test cranked the motor to prime the oil system and build oil pressure. Pays to use OEM parts, the adhesive on the CV basket was very welcome, and fit was perfect.

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Side rubber strip (NO FUN)
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Also installed LED's and a USB port in center Console. I installed a USB port to plug in the back of the Blaupunkt head unit for cel phone charging, IPD, etc. Also a white LED with a mini toggle in the bin, red for the low fuel light circuit, blue for the accessory fan and green for fog lights.
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Change the needle on the tach, or on the speedo. The tach has the early silver-cone needle, the speedo has the later no-cone one. If you go with cones, add one to the middle of the combo gauge as well. Looks weird with it mixed.

Be very very very careful with those ratchet-type jack stands. If you bump the release lever wrong, they can let go. Gint had to have his face reconstructed after an incident just like that. Pin-lock jack stands are much better. If you keep using these, rig up a way to positively hook the lever in the locked position! We don't need another forum member having to get emergency surgery after his car falls on him....

--DD

Thanks Dave,

I haven't swapped out the tach or speedo, they are the ones in the car when I got it. I wondered about the mismatch, but figured it was what it was. Will go on the 'future' to do list.

On the jack stands, whenever I am under the car I use a floor jack as backup and as you can see the tires are under the car as well. Thanks for the lookout!

If I can get the holes drilled in the throttle arms this weekend, I will finish the Tangerine cable throttle system and maybe even install the pushrods and rocker arms.... Has anyone tied to drill through the Dellorto Throttle arm? holy cow, they just laugh at drill bits, even carbon. I ordered some carbide, hopefully those will work, if not I will just take to a machine shop and have drilled.

This is a great build!

Will be a very cool car.

John

Making serious progress. Finished the Tangerine Cable Throttle system, got the correct spacers for the Dell 36's so the Air Filters set properly, Ran fuel lines to carbs, and installed an oil pressure switch to control the fuel pump. I'll break all out in separate posts.

First is the Tangerine Cable Throttle System.
Overall a very nice smooth system, and easy install. Super high quality parts and machining. Really like supporting a small business and custom part maker like Chris. The only hiccup was drilling the dellorto throttle arms. SUPER hard metal required a $20 carbide cutting bit.

The Dellorto Carb return springs are pretty strong, and I don't know if the Tangerine supplied springs were necessary, but as you can see there are springs attached to the pulleys. The instructions are clear, and common sense made for an easy install. Though I must admit I didn't really read them other than the part on drilling the 1/8" hole for the pin to locate the throttle arm to the pulley. I used blue loctite on the nuts, as the standard locking tabs would not fit inside the pulley. The cable to the slave pulley is too long, so before I cut it I heated it up with the soldering iron, impregnated it with solder and cut. FOr extra insurance against fraying I also stuck a piece of shrink tube over the end and shrunk it up. I had to use a couple washers as the pulley arrangement forces the elimination of the spacers on the shaft. The nut bottomed out before tightening the pulley. Still need to fine tune, but to my eyes the system is ready to go.

Carb Spacer and Air Filter Install
The Dell 36 has a raised fuel banjo and while the CB performance bases work fine, the ITG filters did not. After some research, I found a website called eurocarb that sells a bunch of carb parts and filters and stumbled on these spacers. I bought a set of RAMFLO filters really cheap, and may use in the future, but for now and the setup, balance, tune, etc, I will stick with the ITG filters. The shorter filter still makes a little bit of contact with the trunk lid arm, but not bad. The ITG filters allow the use of the velocity stacks, and seal up nice. No real place or way to run a connection for the Crankcase or fuel vapor vent so I guess I'll just vent them to atmosphere. The fuel vapor is routed to under the car and the crankcase vent will just have a small filter.

Fuel Pump relay
I figured out how the stock double relay worked for the fuel pump, and installed a normally open oil pressure switch, that at 4lbs of pressure and becomes a closed circuit.

With the change to carbs and elimination of the computer, the pump does not run in the 'on' position. Once I figured that out, I also wanted some type of safety that wouldn't overpower the float valves, and eliminated the possibility of accidentally flooding the engine and dumping raw fuel if the ignition switch was left on.

The stock 912E system runs the fuel pump when the starter is engaged, and when running. If the car stalled, the fuel pump would shut off. When air passed the airflow flap arm thing in the airbox, it closed a contact, and triggered the fuel pump relay. I backtracked to the circuit on the relay, and discovered that on the right side of the relay (FI side) terminal 88a was 12V out, and according to the schematic ran to the air flow sensor/meter in the airbox. Tracing that, I saw that it returned and ran through the fuel pump relay on terminal 86b. I tested this theory and it worked perfectly.

Fuel pump runs when start is engaged, and stops when set to run. Jumping terminal 88a & 86b activated the relay and fuel pump. I installed a Normally OPEN oil pressure switch (from an 88 GMC for the same purpose) to act as the safety. So the fuel pump will run when starting and will continue to run as long as there is 4lbs of pressure.

I did another wiring diagram, mostly so I could figure it out and document what I did so when I have to go back years from now, I don't have to try to remember (futile effort)

OK its beer time..............

That looks real good Steve.
Nice that someone makes those spacer plates so the ITG bases will fit on the 36's.

BTW, I expected to see the return springs behind the pulleys...
but maybe you already tried that and prefer them in front with your installation.

For 914's the return springs would be behind the pulleys, Just because the engine is installed the wrong way in 912's