You can change the title yourself by going to your first post while loged in and click on edit, then full edit and go to the top of the new screen and change your title!

Some people will be douche bags and say no but that is not what all of us would say. I like restorations in just about any car. There has even been some pics a Lotus done here.

thanks!

So I'm cooking today to get ready for dinner tonight. MMMM cookies. Going to start the smoker at about 2:30 for the smoked chicken tacos. So if your in the area stop by for dinner at about 6:00 pm.

And the fan is finished being blasted and painted. The pulley metal was very rusty so I removed the rust, and between wirebrush, sandpaper and a grinding stone on my dremel and smoothed it down to metal as good as possible, then used Eastwood Rust encapsulator once that cured for a couple days, I topcoated with PJ1 case paint. After curing for 2 days I then baked it at 200 for an hour to fully cure and complete the ceramic hardening. Then painted fan housing with silver and baked. Tomorrow I hope to pick up my crankshaft remount the front bearings and gears and get back to the mechanic for balancing with all the parts.Click to view attachment

Nice. I can already tell how the rest of the motor is gonna look

Since you changed your title, I guess my "WEcome" comment doesn't work anymore now it's just welcome.

I was looking at a restored 912 this summer at the XXX event in Seattle. Guy wanted $18,000 or something close to that. I thought it was a steal at that price. Watch out how much you spend if you're thinking of selling the car any time soon.

NOt SUre WHat you mean about the welcome ;-)

Yeah, I am very aware of the cost of this have been bargain hunting for parts, buying slowly over the last 2 years. Also watching for sales & great prices, recently scored new zimmerman front vented rotors for $55 a piece and rear vented rotors for $27. Crazy good deal. The downside is I am a parts whore and my wife is getting mad as boxes arrive daily ;-)

The entry price was virtually nothing, and paint will be the real killer, likely more than the full mechanical restore. I don't plan to sell the car, I have a bad habit of keeping things when I like them. After all the BS&T put into the car I'll be driving it for quite a while. My goal is a 3 season driver not a garage queen. I'm also doing 99% of the work myself with the exception of some machine work, balancing and the paint/body work. I did strip the car down to bare metal then acid etch and zinc coat. Will sit over the winter. In the spring I will redo the acid etching and zinc coating and prime with a 2 part epoxy primer, then send to a body shop for bodywork and paint. That is the BIG $$$ still looking for the right shop/person.

I am basically doing a complete gut & rebuild, salvaging what I can (which is a lot) and upgrading where I am replacing. i.e. Most of the work is refreshing, but some is total replacement.

- new 96MM pistons & cyls
- performance cam for carbs with solid lifters & swivel head adjusters
- Thermo reactors replaces with bursch bypass pipes
- Heads rebuilt and improved by Len Hoffman
- 911 style rotors & calipers & M/C
- 911 Turbo tierod and rack spacer kit
- Upgraded gauges - adding 911 dual
- Interior door panels and center console from 86 SC
- heater modifications and addition of fresh air fan circuit in place of clock & fuel gauge.

I'm having fun and have made some great connections, two of them being Jorge from European motorworks, and Len from Hoffman. Both of these guys are masters and very helpful, professional and have been great to work with. HIGHLY recommend either of them.

I've been wrenching on my own stuff since I was in 8th grade, and have rebuilt/restored half a dozen cars and motorcycles, but this is my first Porsche/VW other than a short stint with a GTI back in the early 80's which ended horribly in an Audi...... So I am learning as I go, and appreciate all the insight and help. I've asked a million dumb questions and will ask more.

Bottom line is if I spend $7500 on paint, I will be under $17000 for the total rebuild, that is everything including new tires, stereo, 100% complete. Plus I have a bunch of stuff to sell from this and other projects I have gathered piles of parts. I'm talking to one forum member about a few parts right now once we settle that I will offer the balance to the forums.

Great project!

Seems like you have a good plan.

John

Hi Steve,

Very nice project! Wow, lots of VA plates in that earlier post . . . where are you? I'm in Yorktown if you need a hand. There are a few of us in the eastern part of the state . . . .

Steve, I have had 3 912Es , now own #265. I built the2056 myself with all RABY parts. The torque is wonderfull. Check out Jake Raby,s website and you can find out about the one he has . I think it gets 36MPG at 80 MPH on an after market FI. I think it is : www.aircooledtechnology.com Let me know if you have any questions, AL

I would love a 912E .... except they still have to be smogged here ....... lookin good

Get a '74 or a '75 911 and drop a T4 in it

SWEET! Just picked these up off ebay. NOS never used DRLA 36's with manifolds, filters and linkages, at about 1/2 a set of Weber 40's.... I'm psyched.

[/quote]

Hi Steve,

Very nice project! Wow, lots of VA plates in that earlier post . . . where are you? I'm in Yorktown if you need a hand. There are a few of us in the eastern part of the state . . . .
[/quote]

I'm in Alexandria, just North of MT Vernon. Thanks for the offer!

This is what I am hoping for, not looking to bracket race, but good strong midrange performance, torque, etc. I've learned much from the Raby pages, and ended up purchasing much of my engine hardware inadvertantly from the individual he purchases (or used to) them through. So I have many of the Raby improvements, with a few differences. I've corresponded with him a bit, interesting fellow... Will definately have questions as I work towards assembly of the motor. I'm really blessed to have a great local porsche mechanic, all they do is Porsche, and the guy I am dealing with has built hundreds of Type 4's and used to race his 914 which he still has in the shop. I'm doing 99% of it myself, he is balancing, and will tune/dyno the car when it is assembled.

My BIGGEST worry at this point is setting the valvetrain geometry correct, and cutting the pushrods to the right length. I have 3-4 articles on this that dont make much sense, but that is weeks away.

Thanks for the offers of help, this is a great forum.

I never even heard of one untill I found this car, almost diddnt go for it at first, but the more I have read and the reality that I will have a motor with almost as much power, with much less weight, better fuel economy, and better handling, plus a rare car (**EDIT missed a 0.... ;-) about 2000 made, with who knows how many still around) and this was a no brainer. PLUS the type 4 will always be less to operate and maintain (in theory) than the more complex 6CYL, and likely more durable.

I HOPE to build this motor right and to never have to open it for at least 50K miles other than valve adjustments, tuneups, etc.... I've been tearing the car down and slowly buying parts for the last 2 years, and am now at teh point where I am reassembling and building! WHOO HOO!

SO CA doesnt have an antique car clause? In VA I can put antique/collector plates on it, and not worry about emissions, etc.

There were, I believe, 2100 of the 912E made. Somewhat more than 200, but still a very small number.

I remember when a younger member of the Porschephiles email list found 912E #1 and bought it. He took it to his mechanic for a general going-over or maintenance or something, and the mechanic wrecked it on a test-drive. Still makes me sad to think about....

--DD

Not that I am aware of ..... but we did have a 30 year rolling exemption going and they stopped it at 1975 and older models ...... the 912E just missed it .....

There was legislation introduced to increase it to 1981 (IIRC), but it didn't pass

+1 oh yeah, I kinda heard about that ..... that really sucks it did not pass ...

Yeah, they need to keep up with the times and move it up to at least '85 or so ... then I wouldn't have to smog my '84 Westy

Some progress, I jacked the car up and put on stands today and started disassembling the suspension and brakes.

REAR: pulled the rear brake rotor, caliper, shock, brake shield and a few other things off the rear, was going to pull the rear spring plate and control arm bushings but after pulling the spring plate and looking at the bushing, which looked almost new, no cracks, etc. and some vigorous pushing and pulling of the control arm, I decided to lube and reinstalled. Nasty nasty rotors. I noticed the rear calipers were ATE.

FRONT: Pulled the rotors, calipers, shields, hubs, front sway bar, pulled out the torsion bars, and broke the balljoint pin loose, and ran out of energy (and the wifes patience lol ;-).

Notable moments: steel brake lines are shot, fittings are fubar, need to be replaced. Front torsion bars were in relatively good shape though the rear had no grease and had rusted. The brake pads were about 90% and caliper boots dont look too bad. Havent pulled the control arms off, but looking at the bushings they dont look dried out and cracked. I need to pull the control arms due to some rust on the arms and brackets. Will R&R the whole front suspension,

Next up: Separate the ball joint and strut housing, remove control arms and struts with camber plates, remove master cyl, drop the cross member and steering rack, clean and paint all, and then R&R.

and the rear

..The pile of stuff. Will be dumping the rotors, and sending calipers back for cores, am upgrading to vented rotors front and rear and putting on new calipers as well as new Master cyl as well as new rubber lines, and most of the metal lines it looks like. Most looks good but the dust shields are very rusty and thin, will be interesting to see how it all works out.

passenger front end parts I removed today.Click to view attachment

Just an fyi my 912E will pass DEQ without the air pump and thermal reactors.
Smart. move to ditch the reactors they build up heat and cook the oil after you park the car.
The pump is a pain that robs power and I can get 36 mpg at 75.

love these cars too. The motor is what the 914 should have evolved to if production was continued.

Looks like you've been a busy boy.

If the car has sat for a long time, I recommend rebuilding the calipers and install a new master cylinder, even if they 'look OK'. It's really not that expensive in the realm of things and it'll give you peace of mind

P.S. you can go back and EDIT your posts. Sometimes (because I'm lazy) I'll EDIT my original post(s) to add pix.

Why would you want to look at marks on the flywheel when adjusting the valves?

The Cap'n

Topside, TDC for timing with an adjustable timing light. Bottom side, to find TDC & BDC

LOL thanks what I was thinking....

Gents, diddnt want to start a new thread, and trying to keep some discipline

So a few weeks ago I scored a new set of Dellorto 36's. I've heard and read several different opinions on wether these are too small. I've read that Dell's flow as well as one size up Webers, and because the target IDF was 40 as opposed to 44's, I figured that the Dellortos were the 'right size'. I've also been told that the 30mm venturis will be restrictive especially with my larger cam and Hoffman Heads.

So being a 'show me' kind of guy I have been reading and researching and discovered the following:

1. The CFM of Dellorto 36 DRLA is 205.8cfm/venturi for a total of 823CFM (CB Performance)
2. Approx 208 CFM total is Needed for a 126.27952 CID (2056cc) Mildly Built Engine (Carbs Unlimited)
3. Divide 208CMF/4 and you get 52 CFM/cyl.....
4. I measured the internal venturi/housing size of the SINGLE throttle body for the stock EFI and it is 58mm at its widest, and this flows all the air for the motor.

Based on all of this looks, it like the Dell will easily meet any demand for flow........ If the projected CFM for each cyl is 52, and each venturi will flow 205CFM, this is good right? Even if the CFM number posted for the carb is for BOTH Venturi's (barrells) I am still more than double the calculated CFM required...... SO....... other than experience, What am I missing????

For adequate performance for 5,500 RPM or below the 36s will be fine. The 36 Dell only flows 5CFM less than a 40 Weber with stock venturis.

Yeah, that is a good idea. it would have to be a non sunroof model then stripped of all extra weight. However in that price range, a nice early 912 would be kinda nice too.

OK, things have been hectic the last week, back to it today I hope. Been getting some unexpected 24hr duty shifts at work, about to head home. I owe a few guys some prices on parts, will get them boxed and est weights today. Sorry for the delays!

Then it is time to do more blasting...... I have 2 small tin sections and the large pieces, that need to be media blasted, then washed (gonna use the dishwasher (without soap) when the wife is not home ;-) Then coat with eastwood rust encapsulator and gloss PJ1 black engine case paint & bake in oven to cure. Then it is on to suspension pieces. Hopefully get the crank assembly back from the mechanic next week (why does it take so long???)

I've been busy on #770, here is a link to the thread on the 912E page. A great fellow Porsche source of info, and as you know shares the same basic motor as the 914. Figured I'd paste the link instead of double posting, and if I want to watch the Probowl tonight I need to do those honey do's...... SWMBO is understanding, but I spent all day on the car yesterday, so... well you know how it is. lol Anyhow, her is the link. Not much that is engine related, but I believe some of the suspension and shift mechanism may be applicable or interesting. Man am I having fun.
http://www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php?43...te&p=304404

really ...?

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/11/r...rsche-911s-2-7/

states 170 hp

LOL, yeah at some point, I thought the 911 motor put our around 130 hp.

well, I know Jake does magic with typeIV motors but if it was in my car, I would like a 170 hp -6 rather than a 170 hp -4. But then I drive my cars like a (trying to make a funny, no offensive meant to our female members)

True, but this car isn't about power, and I've seen the prices of the 6cyl motors and parts...... I'm VERY happy with cost of the type 4. In fact, I could and would not be doing this project if it was in this condition and had the 6cyl. That said, as I have modeled my engine build on some of the best type 4 engines out there (mostly Raby), I think I will be completely satisfied with the power, even when I am old and drive like a girl

When I want speed I'll hop on my 0-60 2.8 sec.
1/4-mile 10.93 sec Motorcycle.

R&R'd the steering rack and front cross member today, things are coming along! Here is a before & after. Details are on the main build thread. Also test fit the sachs/Boge strut inserts, fit perfectly. Will be cleaning them up over the next few days.

http://www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php?43...70-Update/page4

Consider the sprung weight difference of the two engines behind the rear axle of the same car. Then things change.

170 HP is nothing for us these days with the T4, in fact most every engine we complete is north of that figure today. The exception are those that are outfitted with stock FI and kept at around 130 "safe for stock FI" HP.

Yes, I own multiples of each and can compare them all back to back any day of the week. Both have pros and cons.

A few more projects completed. Paint is PJ1/VHT engine paint. Heat treated after it cured. Should stand up well. The brake shields were very rusty, cleaned up with wire wheel, cleaned degreased and POR15 like paint, then topcoated with 3 coats of gold engine case paint & baked in oven. Same with suspension parts.

Decided to go silver with the shift lever. Took lever down to metal, then 4 coats of PJ1 engine case paint. Let cure then heat treated. Should stand up well. Waiting on the new shift knob with silver shift pattern, Looks great and matches the Momo Protipo Steering wheel. Dissasembled the unit, cleaned it all up, polished pivot points & reassembled.

Excellent

Getting psyched, just ordered the rebel racing bushings..... Hopefully will finish the struts and control arms this weekend!

Of course I realized I still have a ton of stuff to R&R, including the gravel tray 1/2 shafts, front hubs and bearings, but I'm getting close to the suspension being finished! The rear is good to go. Once I get the under chassis cleaned and refreshed, I can start reinstalling it all.

OK, I'm not above begging...............

Anyone have the alternator rear plate with cooling duct? I've looked without success, and cant buy one aftermarket. The 912E had the duct built into the alternator casing itself, whee the 914/bus had a separate backplate. I went for the bus alternator for the upgrade to 75Amps over the 55 stock.

If none turn up, hopefully will find one at Hershey. If that fails, I will send mine out to be rebuilt.

Thanks!

You don't show torsion bars or rear bushings in front A-arms, beware that worn OEM bushings sag and cause bars to rub the ID of the A-arm and create grooves and corrosion pits that may result in fracture of the bars. Replacement of the bushings is easy and should be done if you haven'r already been there.
If the torsion bars have the coating warn away be sure to polish the bars to remove any grooves or corrosion and re-coat.

Snow day today, so I figured I'd try my electric heater box part duex.... Round 1 was ineffective as the stock rear blower was unable to push what I thought was enough air. After looking around I decided to try a larger enclosure and go for a 125CFM 4" fan...

Parts:
4" 12V brushless double ball bearing fan
4" metal electrical box & cover
3" PVC drains (x2)
4" PVC plastic box cut down to 3/4 for spacer
125W 12V heat element

I used my dremel to cut holes in the metal box and cover for the inlet and outlet. The Heat element bolts directly inside the box and air is pulled into the inlet, through the heat element through the fan and out the other end. Because the fan is 4" and the outlet is 3" I had to make a spacer to create airspace for air movement. I cut a hole in the metal plate cover for the box, slipped the drain through the hole. I drilled holes in the fan housing that lined up with the standard cover screws and sandwiched the fan and spacer between the box and cover. JB Weld over any large seams/joints, and then wrapped the whole unit in duct/foil tape.

The result? A solid 10-12 degree raise in temps.... lol. I think the issue is too much fan/air volume and thus too little temperature rise. I imagine pulling air through the tubes from the back of the car will slow the volume down, but maybe not enough. This was one of the reasons I went for a higher CFM fan. I will have plenty of time to play around with the system and will probably put in a variable speed control for the fans. Was a fun snow day project though.

Finished product. Saw a 10 degree rise in the house (70-80). Took the unit out to the garage, let the thermometer settle to 40, ran it for 5 minutes, temp output was 52. clearly not enough. More development to follow.....