Not sure either, I think the reason the lower broke this time is because the upper bracket came loose and caused the lower to crack? I found a lower one on ebay, but may explore some other options. I will head over to the Hangers and Machine shops this week and see what the metal shop can work up for me. They can fabricate almost anything, and have all kinds of high strength steel parts. Hmmm, maybe even repurpose a bracket or piece of metal off an AH64 or CH47. That would be cool ;-)

Thanks for the kind words. I know that feeling I've spent the last 5-6 years looking over this and PP forums with others and have been blown away at peoples work. I'm a total newbie,and my work is passable for a hobbyist, but not professional. But I've done most all myself except for the pain and heads, and I'm happy!

Not sure what Porsche was thinking with the 912E but it makes sens to use the core 914 engine. They did use a different FI system and I think a few other changes but it is basically a low content 1976 911S with the reworked 914 motor.

Pulled the fan shroud off today to do the R&R of the Upper ALT bracket bolt, looks like the threads stripped out of the aluminum which caused the bracket to come loose. I was able to find another bolt long enough to go all the way through the housing and I put a nut at the top. Sucker isn't coming off ever..... That should take care of the upper bracket which is I think the culprit both times. First time the original bracket bent and broke because it had nothing to bolt to at the lower end. On Stock 912E's the alt bracket runs in an arc from the fan housing down to where the header and muffler attach. Because I am using the Tangerine Exhaust this is eliminated. The bracket I got from Kevin (Rhody Guy) is off a 914 and is much sturdier.

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I think I need a new Alternator Pulley, mine is eating the fanbelts super fast because of how pitied it was.

I think I also figured out the problem with the lower bracket. The square end on the carriage bolt is longer than the bracket, and when tightened would bottom out on the alternator and didn't pull the bracket tight to the alternator, just the bolt. This I think created stress on the bracket and movement of the alternator. I used a step drill and widened the hole enough to let the squared section of the bolt slide inside the hole and now the bracket is pulled tight to the alternator front and back. I also used a flat file to smooth the surface of the housing where the bracket bolts up.

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Wasn't too bad only 3 hours to R&R the whole deal & go for a 120 mile drive. Would have gone farther but I forgot my wallet and almost ran out of gas lol. Put 465 miles on the tank of gas, most of it spirited driving. All seems good, but the breaking point has been about 1500 miles. I think I have it this time, with a new solid and bolted tight upper mount, smoothed lower bracket mounting area. Fingers Crossed.

Nice to see no leaks from the crank seal or oil pump, so it looks like my leak is the bottom engine seam.... Oh well, its only a drip here and there.
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The Second Bracket, both breaking the same way in 3 pieces. Is this a common failure on these engines? The original was broken when I pulled the engine apart. I took extra care to make sure the brackets were lined up so the alternator moves freely across its range of motion so no binding or odd stressing of the brackets. I also have some of my Apache Mechanics making me a bracket out of some kind of steel they say wont break, but hopefully won't need it for a while.
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Nice fix! I have a pulley for you. Give me a call.

How is she running?

Why the Dell 36's? How did you pick that size if you don't mind me asking?

Car is running great.

I went with the Dell 36's because I got them for a great deal..... Dell 36's flow like Weber 40's, and are a good option for driveability, solid midrange performance in a 2056. They give up some ultimate HP/Dyno HP #'s to the 40's but not enough to make a difference unless you drive at redline all the time.

Smooth on the bottom end. When Steve left my house, 0 carb racket and no drama.

Thanks!

Your build has been somewhat inspirational for me.

Mike

You still need to drive my car, would love to get some feedback.

Mike, it's funny. I look at my car and project and while I love how it turned out, I am like 'meh' is good (other than paint which is excellent) for a hobbyist project, could be better and is nothing like some of the projects I see here and in PP resto threads. So I appreciate the kudos. It's been a dumb stumble and shot in the dark through most of it, but God honors fools and fear has been burned out of me so I just went for it. I still want to finish the interior with new/better quality tan leather, just dont want to spend the $$........

too many go big thinking bigger is better ....funny thing is we don't drive a 5000 to 5500 rpm that much ,a good midrange power is very rewarding.

8000 mile update.

Just turned 8000 miles on #770 rebuild and all is going well. Here are a few observations.

1. The 911 Chassis on the 912E is very comfortable, solid ride, and cruises beautifully and effortly at 75-80 mph. It only has a front roll bar so the real tight twisties give some body lean, but I really like the ride quality so I am leaving it alone. But I must say............... This is the first car (including my E36 M3) I can take through the turns as fast as I can take in my motorcycles, and it does it almost effortlessly. The balance is perfect, with a full tank I am 52/48, with 1/2 tank is 50/50. No idea what it is with a driver, but the car is just AMAZING...... The Rebel Racing suspension and Sachs shocks with stock torsion bars and sway bar is sweet. Supple, responsive, and solid as a rock.

2. The Motor is running perfectly. Starts right up, solid idle, pulls straight to redline, great midrange, and most importantly is docile, smooth and responsive when driven normally. Very little oil burning, maybe a quart every 2000 miles. Fuel mileage is averaging 26mpg, when just on highway/cruising/trip my wife and I got 33mpg, loaded with luggage two people and 70-75 mph highway.

3. When driving aggressively and returning from an off throttle situation, if I feather the gas it will go lean for a second or two, so I need to get deeper in the pedal. I may switch to larger accel jets in the future but this is the only driveability issue fixed by changing my driving style.

4. I didn't do a good job with the top and bottom case seals. The front and back and crank/cam plugs & seals are good, but my top and bottom seams weep a little oil, as do 1-2 of the cyls where they make with the case. It's not bad, and amounts to Very little drip, but the seams are wet with oil. Oh well.............

5. I've eaten 3 alt brackets and 5 belts...... I think I have the brackets straightened out, but need to swap out the alternator pulley, it is pitted and just eats away at the belts.

6. Air/oil temps. This may be a matter of TMI, but I track oil temp in 2 locations, the sump on the stock gauge, and post my external oil cooler with a PLX, and also the Cylinder Head Temps on a VDO. In normal driving, mix of hills and flats, and legal speeds the motor is spot on for oil and cyl head as far as temps. When driving aggressively, or in over 90 degrees outside, it is a tug of war between good head temps or good oil temps. If I drop down a gear, especially in the mountains and long hills, the Head temps are good, but the oil temps spike and get close to max. If I keep the revs down, higher gear, the oil temps stay low, but head temp spikes and gets close to max. Though my external oil cooler is not in a clear path of direct air, it is in an open space. I think a solution will be a cooler mounted fan that I can manually turn on and off. I ran 2 extra wires to the front when I had the car apart so will wire in a micro switch in my accessory gauge cluster to power a fan and see what this does.

7. Oil pressure. I've noticed when entering hard cornering that the oil pressure drops if the oil is not full. Even a 1/2 qt low can trigger this. Hopefully the tuna can thing will fix this. Because of my external oil cooler, I try to stay 1/2 a qt over full as the cooler is higher than the sump and drains back into the sump. If I keep the level full, it rarely happens, but MAN what a scare to get the oil light when you are hard on the throttle in a 75MPH sweeper!

8. I swapped out the dead dino oil with swepco in the gearbox and it made an immediate improvement that seems to be getting better. Smoother shifting, better downshifting and syncro engagement, but still get a little complaint from 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts. Only 2-300 miles so far, but everytime I drive it feels better. Still not perfect, but much better.

I want to again say THANK YOU to those of you in this forum. I dont have time to contribute very often these days, but still poke my head in and will do so.

Thanks to you, Steve. We have enjoyed your thread. I got to drive a new 912E when I worked at a Porsche dealer in the '70's. I don't recall if we had more than one. It was a great car to drive, and it was also quiet, just a subtle roar. You chose such a fine car to restore

Great picture. Beautiful car. Impressive geography.

Thanks for taking the time, Steve, to meticulously document this project for our education and enjoyment. I read the entire thread from beginning to end.

I, too, owned a Bitter Chocolate 912E (#1746), but I always thought it was under powered with its somewhat "meager" 86HP. However, the massive 21 gallon gas tank was a wonderful feature, providing a cruising range of several hundred miles!

Thanks, its been a blast. I'm happy with the power of the rebuild, but have nothing to compare it to. Have never driven or ridden in a 914, or 912E or 911 of that Era.

One of these days will get together with Kevin and others to see what they think of the power. I'm impressed, and guessing it is at about 115-120 HP.

After almost 3 months of being gone training, I decided to go for a drive this morning. It was a bit chilly, but the sun was out. Unfortunately, my new AGM 911 sized Battery was completely dead.... Thankfully, I bought it at OReilly's and they tested it and it came up bad. They had one in stock, replaced at no cost and 60 minutes later I have the new battery in the car and am driving.... Real nice 3 hour drive. WHAT A SWEET car.....

After not running for 3 months the car kicked right off, and just a little spitting from one of the carbs (same one every time) the car ran sweet and strong. The Tangerine Exhaust with heat option does a fair job, puts enough warmish air on the windshield to keep it fog free unless I breath too hard... lol

I THINK however that the car killed the battery, and that I have a very slight draw somewhere in the system that drained the battery completely. I mean totally dead as in 0 volts... lol Last time I drove it was in Sept. I didn't put the trickle charge on before I left so my bad. I do need to try to track down the draw/short though.

Not sure why but a few things work if the key if off, particularly the windshield wipers. I figure if that circuit is still live there must be a couple others. Still need to get it to the body shop to get the door repaired...

I have a '76 911S same color as yours. In that car (as well as my other 911's and such) I use this...seriously.

It may be old school. But, it saves the battery and also reduces my concern of a fire caused by a short or other electrical issue.

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Amazon - Switch

Steve, I agree with billh1963. Here is what I did on my 914. 3 benefits: 1) slight thief deterrent, 2) no more battery rundown from electrical leaks, and 3) eliminate the small fire hazard associated with 45 year old electrical systems that are energized and sitting in your garage.

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Yep, thanks was on the 'to do list' Picked one up today, will install this week. Still would like to track down the slow drain and figure out if the wipers should be 'active' while the key is off.

Initially the delay circuit and park on off function worked fine but after the first drive in the rain (yes.... it is NOT a garage queen) the wipers failed to return to park on off and the delay function ceased to work. I disassembled the motor, re-soldered the connections and no change so I assume it is the switch itself. Is on the 'list' I wanted to drive the car and enjoy it after 6 years of work.

My short list of 'to do's is:

1. New Leather seats - Recover stock units - $$$
2. Track down the short and wiper issue
3. Install fan on external oil cooler
4. Send Thermostat back to the 'awesome powdercoat' thermostat doesn't open, never has. Am running without.
5. Sell all my EXCESS parts.

But I've been so dang busy...... I just barely have time to squeeze in drives.....

Nice weather today, took the car for a long drive and swung by Rhody Guys (Kevin) to pick up a good working thermostat. Took the long way home, about 200 miles and came home to discover that Bracket Slayer had struck again....... #4........ SAME exact place as the others. Time to reevaluate. It is notable that this is an ongoing problem for the car, as when I initially tore the engine apart, it only had half a bracket, and I found out by accident that it was broken.

Thanks to Kevin I now have a working Thermostat Bellows which will help keep the motor at optimal operating temps.

You took the long way home . What route did you take? Up 410? Weird on the bracket. I have another one. I had the pleasure of driving steve's car yesterday. More than adequate power, wonderful road manners, and nice a/f ratios. To me, his carbs are setup perfectly.

I took the Tacoma Narrows Bridge then up through Purdie and looped down to Olympia on 3 and 101. Thanks for the complements on the setup. Credit goes to this board, I spent 2-3 years reading threads and researching, and getting advice before I turned the key.

I'll prob swing by this weekend for the bracket, but wont put it on till I have a workable fix to ensure no further breakage. I think I am going to create a stiff backing plate to support the bracket. I think the rear (engine side) of the bracket hangs off the fan housing and this causes the bracket to brake at the weak point where it is thinnest due to the bolt hole.

Right before I "disappeared" for a few months, I ordered a NOS Alternator Pulley from Sunset Porsche. Unfortunately, their database was in error and there were no parts available. I really need a new Alternator Pulley. It eats fan belts like a fat kid ad McDonalds, and the inconsistent width of the pulley (from rust pitting, etc,) causes a constant 'pulse' of tension for lack of better description on the belt and may have contributed to breaking 3 lower alternator brackets over 5-6K miles.

I was able to get a good 914 pulley from Rhodyguy, but unfortunately the backspacing difference between the 914 & 912E motor causes a misalignment of the belt and it throws immediately. The 912E Pulley has fan blades behind the pulley. I think they are unnecessary as the Alternator is cooled from the cooling fan. Once I get settled, I may relook and consider shimming behind the pulley with a washer, but if I remember, the differences make that questionable.

Right now this is the only weak point in the car and is limiting my confidence to just go drive. When I get back East I want to drive to Hershey, visit Hoffman and Jake the Great, maybe AA, as well as take it on the Dragon's Tail, etc.

Anyone with experience in swapping these out? I do plan to change the cooling system to a DTM or Tangerine eventually, but would much prefer to go the new pulley route.

Just thinking out loud, would it not be possible to have a machine shop chuck it on a lathe and smooth out the walls? Or better yet, machine a new one from aluminum.

It's been a while. Our great Uncle has been keeping me busy, and I am back on the East Coast back to where it all started for #770

I just turned 10K miles on the rebuild and other than a few things here and there (like eating alternator brackets and fan belts), the car is solid. I still havent sourced a good pulley alternate to replace my trashed and pitted pulley, and havent found one that will fit, but I will keep trying. At this point after 5 fan belts the old pulley is almost smooth now ;-) My last fix on the bracket mount seems to have worked, but I picked up a fan housing and bracket for $10 at the swap meet so I may just swap that in.

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Love seeing positive updates on this car! Is that a dent on the door or a reflection - hoping a reflection...

No... Sadly it is a dent and one caused by me. I'm waiting to get back into Scotty B to get it fixed.

Overall the car is running really great I just pulled the plugs today when I changed the oil and added the tuna can mod they all look great that tan color with a very very light tint of green which I'm assuming is due to additives in the fuel.

I think I'm due for a valve adjustment but the motor sounds great. What's the Frequency recommended if you're running swivel foot Adjusters?

have you tried looking on Ebay.de for bosche alternator parts?

It's been a while and I am finally happy to report that I have finished! I found a great deal on a set of perfectly color matched front seats and some marine vinyl for the lower rear pads. As some may remember, I decided to omit the upper folding seat backs and leave them as jumpers. Got a killer deal on the seats and the color scheme matches perfect. I also swapped out the big square halogens for some small PIAA LED's. Not period correct, but better lighting and easier on the electrical system.

I added the Sump extender and since I put the backing plate on the lower alternator bracket, no more broken brackets! 11K miles on the rebuild and only a few minor issues.

Well.............. Bracket slayer strikes again........... Bracket #4 (or maybe 5) is broken. I put a backer plate on and it lasted about 5K miles, but was heaidn out for a drive saturrday and once again it broke. Between this and the terrible belt eating pulleys I'm DONE...........

Time to look at either a DTM or FAT 911 style. There was a guy at Hershey selling a full FAT system, should have grabbed it.

Anything newer or better for the Type4/914 Motor? Insert a few minutes of cursing............. lol

Other than that, everything is running great!

5th time a charm?

Finally took the time to address my latest broken bracket. Went through the routine, replaced the lower bracket and noticed the upper was cracked too. Made sense as have been driving the car, mostly short trips no more than 10-15 miles from home figuring I could drive back on battery if it threw the belt. It didn't, but was basically hanging from top bracket, which cracked it..... sigh.....

So this time I took out the entire fan housing again, swapped out both brackets. Probably did it right for the first time Taking both off forced me to have to ensure proper alignment with not only the fan, but also in relation to each bracket and range of motion on the slide bracket.

Til now I have basically swapped out the bracket and called it done. I THINK the alternator was in effect mounted crooked, and put pressure/twisted the lower bracket, causing it to crack and break. It basically broke in the EXACT same place every time.

This time, I took measurements to see where the brackets needed to be so the pulleys lined up, then took the fan housing off the motor, mounted the brackets sightly tight and the alternator to the brackets finger tight and played/adjusted tapping here and there to make sure that the alt slid freely on the slide bracket and while doing so put no torsional stress on the lower bracket, and most importantly, when pressure is put on the alternator on full acceleration. Now it appears to be properly square and aligned. I can see that I had both brackets cocked a bit in the past, and this is hopefully what caused the bracket slaying.... I didn't think it was that much of a big deal.... but... Going on a 300 mile drive today, lets see how it hold up!

Broken Lower Bracket
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Cracked upper bracket
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Update on #770.

Just did the 10K mile valve adjust and tuneup. All the valves were just a hair tight, swapped out for new plugs, checked timing, carb sync, and fresh oil. MAN what a difference! Motor is much smoother at idle, and running.

I did 3-4 valve adjustments/checks over the first 1000 miles, but have mostly just done oil changes every 3K miles, and filters every 6K. The timing was still spot on, and the Pertronix cap & rotor showed little wear, plugs were that desired tan, even #3.

I swapped out the ITG filters and V stacks for the Ram Flo filters, and will wash and re-oil the ITG's when I have time, but didn't realize how much quieter the intake would be. Lost a little midrange power, but not too bad.

I also FINALLY relocated the vent hose from the oil catch can vent from the chimney. I originally routed it down the front of the engine bay, and was right near the intake for the heat/vents. No more smell on hard acceleration...

I think I finally have the alternator bracket situation sorted. The stock pulley ate belts at a 500 mile rate, and once adjusted to the full extent, the bracket would break. I ended up buying a re-manufactured alternator for a 914, pulled the pulley and put it on the alternator, put on a new belt. Between the total realignment back in March, and pulley, 2K miles later, belt is wearing well, and in a 'healthy' adjustment range, so no broken brackets anymore (crossed fingers). Now I just need to sell the alternator.... lol.

17K total since rebuild, the car is running and driving flawlessly. Even took it to a PCA track event this summer, which was tons of fun.

Not much time to post or visit the forum, but hope all are well!

Glad to hear you finally tackled the bracket issue. I love that you are driving it the way it was meant to be used. I hope to see 17k on my car one day.

I wish I could drive it more, but since moving back East, and being in the Metro DC area, daily driving is less appealing, though I try to get out most weekends.

I also realized I never posted up the repair of the Door, done by Scotty B for me a few months back.

Pics of the door. As always Scott's work is impeccable.
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Here is the new pulley. 2K so far. Hoping after a run to Hershey next Spring to take the car on a Tour of the Kentucky Distillery's with the wife.

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Still have a few things I want/need to do, mainly adding an aux fan to my external cooler, and touch up of some chassis rust, mainly one caliper and the rear brake hubs. Should have taken the time at rebuild, but THOUGHT they were G2G. Also considering a higher torque starter upgrade.

Lookin Classy.....


How is Scotty doing these days??

Long road. Sounds like you've solved the bracket issue.

Yup, and still holding with minimal belt degradation. Belt still flys off when I rev too high. Fine when shifting at or below normal redline.

Now I need to catalog ALL my unused parts and sell! I have a perfect 914 rebuilt Alternator, bunch a other parts including a NOS Bursch Muffler for the 912E.

Hope to get m y act together this spring, take photos, etc....

Current state of affairs as I prep to convert to the Tangerine Cooling system and stainless pushrod tubes. I'll also be swapping out the starter with a hi-torque unit and installing an external cooler with fan in place of the stock unit.

Overall, pretty happy with how it all looks after 5 years and 15K miles.

2 quick questions.

1. As I'm going to be changing out the pushrod tubes, and all the upper valvetrain will be removed, is this a good time to re-torque the heads? If I do this, should I do them one at a time, or back all off slightly and then retorque?

2. Anyone know of a fuel filter with a check valve that works with the low pressure pump? Tired of the fuel being sucked back to the tank after I shut the car down.

Will post pics of updates as they go.

Thanks all.

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A proven build with years and miles on the ODO, well done! Such a clean looking 912.

I haven't been to this page in a long time . I have # 265 (silver / red int. I built the 2056 engine and love the combination . I'm running 44MM Webers with the stock (big FI ) filter and it runs fine at 2.5 PSI . Al

Prepping to install the Tangerine Horizontal Cooling system, just waiting on the parts for the remote oil cooler. Am installing a remote cooler with thermostatically controlled fan. Will also use a high flow marine bilge pump to flow air through the heat box for heat.

Mock up of the fan and housing.

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Fitting the pulley bracket and alternator. Couldn't use the stock alternator due to the cooling port and housing.

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I think you need a new broom

Seriously, I'm a fan of Tangerine, and that's a good looking setup. Please let us know how it works!

WOW. Pretty cool. Is the black bracket on the alt a stock piece or a Chris's version?

It uses the stock upper and lower brackets.

Hoping it will all work out well. I've wanted to do this for a while, and this will really clean up the engine compartment and make it more unique. Just want to get it done, I started it in April. Want to get it wrapped up so I can get the car into storage before the bad winter weather starts, the car is in my driveway on jack stands. Id DEFINATELY gonna be sweet when done.

I also have the Tangerine Exhaust, and Cable Throttle, as well as the SS pushrod tubes, but have not done those yet, on the future 'when I feel up to it" list, as I may have to drop the motor. Time will tell.

I just had hip replacement in March, and Knee replacement in August/October so pushing the car around and on/off a trailer is not an option. Cant start it due to everything being disassembled.

And what's wrong with my broom?

Woohoo! Got the final parts today from Chris, and tomorrow will do the final fitting of the engine surround with the oil take off, remount the muffler and see where the best place for the oil cooler to mount. Hoping it will fit on the rear drivers side somewhere. Really dont want to put it in the wheel well, am thinking up against the engine surround on the high side.

I used the full rear stock engine tin, and some of the drivers side for strength and stability as Im hanging the oil cooler from the tin, and helps with the transition from side to rear.

Hopefully will not be raining.............

Engine Surround almost finished, just finalizing the fitment of the oil cooler and figuring out the best way to suspend the exhaust. With the removal of the stock shroud, there is nothing to attach the drivers side bracket to.


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Finished! Just came back from an hour drive, cyl head temps were in the 275-300 range, oil temps in the 180-190 range, is about 60 degrees out today.

This is definitely not for the faint of heart, and not exactly plug and play. Probably 40-50 hours of further fabrication for the engine surround tins, making adjustments for the fan mount, pulley mount, drilling holes for spark plugs, placing the vanes, then getting it to all fit and line up nevermind painting and powder coating, and figuring out how to connect the left side tin with the factory rear. But I am happy for how it turned out, and glad it is done. The car was on jack stands in the driveway since April, and I hated the idea of it sitting in the snow and rain all winter. Hoping to get a longer drive in, but 'honey DO' things must be done......

In addition to the Tangerine cooling system, I also installed one of those high torque starters. MAN that thing is money. I also had to buy a 914 specific alternator as the 912E unit wouldn't fit.

I had a bit of drama, as I miss labeled the 1-2 plug wires when I took them off back in April (was on pain meds for hip replacement.... I know excuses, excuses) So once everything was put together, the thing wouldnt start. Of course being that I took them off back in April, and thought the #'s were right, I put #1 where it actually is supposed to go, so now my timing mark on the new pulley is marked for the wrong position. No big deal, will fix soon. The car had a full tuneup and valve adjust recently, and the oil is new, but having the carbs off gave me an opportunity to look at the accel pump adjusters. Were all but impossible to see mounted, and I discovered that the hesitation I have had at applying light throttle at higher revs was due to my adjusting the darn things the WRONG way. While off the car, I readjusted the nuts equally to give fastest and max action, and am happy to report that there is now NO hesitation.

Now I just need to find a place to mount the new water proof 270 cfm bilge pump for the heat box. I blocked off the rear port on the box, and will connect the new one to the other port. I will put some sort of free flowing filter over the end, and then adapters to get it down to the right size. MTF.

The car ran fantastic, and flawlessly, though the horn stopped working

Here is the finished product. The cooler hangs below the engine surround, and is about the same level as the bottom of the heater box and taco can sump. I used my dremel and cut off some of the stock engine surround to make a smoother transition from the side to rear tin, and it worked out very well, with a perfect spot for the coil and the oil pressure/idiot light sensor to mount.

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I was able to tuck the wiring and thermostat for the oil cooler fan under the electrical cover and all the wiring and connectors needed some adjustment for the new positioning, but it all works well.

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Re pourposed the Mishimoto catch can, vents down to just below the rear bumper.

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Oil Cooler location with Thermostatically controlled fan, and the adapter for the PLX oil temp sensor. As stated earlier, on the hour drive (drove it like I stole it after warmed up) Temps were about idea.

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And for some perspective, here is what it looked like before I started this mess...... Hoping to get a nice long drive in tomorrow to work out some kinks, but overall, it looks like all is working well. We will see how heat soak effects things. The old setup would run 325-350 head temp at the hottest, and oil would get to 225 which is as high as I want to go, prefer to stay in the 180-200 range. If necessary, I can easily add the old cooler back in for some extra cooling.

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Wrapping up a few chads, I finally installed a trickle charger and jumper cable lead. My install and battery make jumping the car a difficult proposition (near impossible) so I installed both a trickle charger lead, and a quick disconnect for jumper cables. I've neve needed a jump, but you never know.....

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Nice 3 hour drive yesterday, some highway, some around town, some big hills and twisties, and drove it like it was meant to be driven. Temps are very good. Vey happy with the setup.

In a funny twist, though this is by no means a bracket racer and drag strip king, I've always been happy with the poke of the engine and power. However, last year, I bought a Mustang Bullitt Edition, and am used to 480HP..... Hmmmm, time to start a fresh big bore turbo engine?

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OK, I'm out, will try to check in on occasion.