Is the ID of the velocity stack the same at the inlet throat of the carb ?
For your 2 filter choices, not quite clear which uses the white spacers. Too bad their ID does not match the carb throat. there will be some inlet loss at WOT as the inlet flow is a sharp edge at the throat. I got past this dilemma by making custom velocity stacks that mount under the top spacer/ filter housing. had to make them 2 piece as the inlet bell mouth would not fit thru the spacer.

Click to view attachment

Its almost Startin time.....

Installed the valve train and adjusted valves, installed spark plugs and primed oil and fuel systems, all is connected. Before I turn the key, want to check a few things and get some final wisdom/input. I've never done a full rebuild from scratch like this, and never on a VW/Type 4, so bear with me. Want to lessen the snafu's.

Current set.
1. 4 quarts Break in oil - dipstick shows 1 quart low. Is this ok for breakin? Cranked motor just enough to build pressure. Should I bring up to full for first start and break in? I know I will drain the oil after the breakin, so I'm inclined to leave alone.

2. Carbs DEL 36's floats were set and the mixture screws are initially set at 2.5 turns out. Tangerine cables are synced well, bowls are filled and floats tested (don't leak)

3. The Pertronix plug & play billet had springs installed by EMW, and I have one red (20) and one blue (16) for total of 18 advance limiters. **For Breakin, I have dist set AT TDC.


PLAN
1. Start engine quickly without excessive cranking. Run engine at 2000-2500 RPM for 30 minutes.
2. Shut off, drain oil, check oil for metal shavings etc.
3. When engine cools, check/readjust the valve clearances to zero lash.
4. Change Filter Refill with Brad Penn 20W50
5. Restart Set timing to 27-28deg BTDC at 3500 RPM 9-10BTDC at Idle (850-950 RPM).
6. Install O2 sensor to read exhaust gasses and adjust carbs. (NO idea how yet, need to get there, lol)

What am I missing..........

To hold steady rpm for breakin you should be able to insert a shim between the throttle stop arm and the adjustment screw on the master carb.
Not sure the needed thickness but I'm guessing in the 1/8" range.

We usually set the full advance timing as soon as we have the engine running, then hold 2500 for 20 minutes.

If you have oil leaks or other issues shut it off right away and resolve them before attempting to run continuously.

We generally leave the break-in oil in the engine until after the first or second drive to seat the rings.

Just finished starting the engine for the first time. Had a bit of a brain fart and a bit anxious about timing marks, but I decided to go for it, and all is good! Put the drivers seat in, and a buddy come over to help with turning the key while I was out back.

I set the static timing for a bit before TDC (ended up being 14BTDC at 3500) car started on second crank! I had primed fuel bowls and oil system before attempting to start. Motor started right away, one cyl was a bit lean for the first few seconds (popping out carb) , but that cleared up quickly.

Ran the motor up to 3500, set timing to 27BTDC, then let the motor run at 2000-2500 RPM (mostly at 2400-2500), then let it idle down, set idle at 950-1000 RPM, checked base/idle timing at 11, then ran up to 3500 and set to 27BTDC, was back at 11 at idle. All is good.

I also did the 'by ear' the way I did it for years, found the sweet spot, and ended up being dead on at 11 at idle and 27 at 3500.

Valves on passenger side were a bit noisier than on drivers side, but I'm sure that will change when I readjust.

Temps stayed well in range, the 911 oil temp gauge reads a bit higher than 1/2. The CHT shows 330-340 even during break in.

Shut down and let cool, checked for leaks, no leaks so far!

After sitting for an hour I went out, started back up and went for a 15 mile drive. Engine pulls well, haven't gone to redline yet, will do on next drive, BUT motor pulls smoothly, no surging no flat spots, pulls linearly from idle to 5K. Not overly powerful, but got to 70 in no time, and cruised nicely. VERY HAPPY CAMPER.

I had NO idea if the Tach, Speedo or Trans would work, this was the first time the car has run and been driven in almost 20 years. BUt the trans shifts nicely, Tach is rock solid as is speedo. I have a few adjustments to make on the clutch, as well as the shift linkage, but the suspension was SMOOTH, no clunking on bumps, no noises, very comfortable. Still need to get a 4 wheel alignment, is just my 'eye estimate' at this point, but the car drove straight, steering a bit heavy, but proper camber/caster will fix that. Seated the brakes a bit, will take some getting used to.

Overall I am psyched, next up will be to readjust the valves and take for a few more drives to seat the rings, push the motor a bit more, run to redline, connect the AFM, and start playing with the carb adjustments, am currently at 3 turns out on the idle adjustment screws, seems to be good.

But at this point, I am VERY happy with the motor, pulls evenly, no flat spots, feels strong across the rev range, but I haven't really pushed it yet. Looking forward to How it runs after the valve adjust, oil change and timing check. Will take some getting used to the almost rough 'pulse' of a flat 4, and feel of the motor, but I think we are off to a great start!

Congrats!

Way to go!!! You have built a great car and you should be proud!

Did the valve adjust tonight, exhaust on #1 was a little loose, intake was a little tight. Not sure how that happened, but the rest were pretty close, maybe a little tight overall. After I buttoned everything up, I went for a 30 minute drive.

Engine ran stronger and stayed cool. Easily hit 100 on the highway with little effort, and cruised beautifully in 5th gear at 75. Pulls strong and flat from 1700-5000 RPM, and makes BEAUTIFUL sounds!!! Not comfortable running to redline under hard acceleration yet, but ran up to redline nice and easy as I ran through the gears, and did several full throttle accel and hard decel cycles. Not a hitch, not a stutter, not a ping..... I have to be honest and say that I am very surprised. I really expected to have to take to a pro to get tuned and dialed in. If I have time tomorrow after work, I am going to hook up the PLX and see what my AFR is.

A few observations: Keep in mind I have NEVER driven a 912E, 914 or even a mid year 911.....

1. The clutch is light, smooth and a delight to operate.

2. The Gearbox is SLOW, but I'm driving an E36 M-3 every day so maybe not a fair comparison. BUT, all the gears and syncros work well, only an occasional stubborn gear change. I used dead dino gearbox lube, nothing special.

3. NO power steering and brakes will take some getting use to. Though it is not power assisted, I did expect a bit more bite. Hopefully will get an opportunity to go out this weekend and seat the brakes a bit more as well as put a few more miles on the engine, then will change out the break in oil.

4. Car handles flat and ride is very comfortable. It is hard to make an assessment as there is NO sound insulation so all the senses are engaged thus I may not be able to really 'feel' the road, though the suspension is very supple and the Rebel Racing suspension makes movement smooth and fast, much faster than a twisting rubber bushing I think.

5. The Tangerine exhaust sounds VERY nice. Mellow, and full, and NOT at all like a VW flat 4. Also the Heat exchanger system works very nicely. Not overly Hot, but hot enough. I'd like more airflow and may look into a stronger fan, but overall is working out nicely.

6. Starter cranks too slow for my liking and seems to labor a bit on the compression stroke. My grounds are good, so I think it may be the starter. Time will tell.

7. Looks like my flaps are a little sticky, will play with them a bit and adjust the cable to the thermostat.

8. The 911 Double gauge I bought on E-bay fogs up when the car is started and running, VERY strange as it is all electrical.

**Quick question, what is the best/optimal range for the engine as measured by the CHT gauge? I'm tracking just under 350 once fully warmed up. Plan a longer drive this weekend, want to keep my eyes on everything.

Nice job, sweet looking car!

UPDATE

Well, 500 miles into the engine already, NO major issues. I adjusted the valves and changed out the break in oil at 300 miles, then readjusted timing and idle. Also installed the Oxygen sensor, and ran the AFM for the first time.

AFM - Basically ranges from 12-13:1 for average running and idle and when cruising in top gear light throttle hovers around 14.1-14.5 when at a very light throttle, but mostly is right at 13-13.5. I THINK This is good for an air cooled motor, you want it a little rich. Correct? FULL throttle pedal to metal is 10.5 ish. At least that is from memory. I know the MAGIC # is

I initially set the timing off the 'factory' red line, but on readjust used the mark I made for TRUE TDC, which is one fan blade off. Motor runs as smooth but feels better overall, about a 3-5 degree difference (less) than the red mark.

As the motor has broken in and the 30W oil out, the engine cranks much faster. Still think the starter is a bit slow and weak, but I have nothing to compare it to.

Running Hi Test (94), didn’t want to risk a lower octane at start. When the tank needs refilling, will try 5 gallons of mid then regular. I am also adding a bottle of seafoam or Lucas to every tank given the idiocy of environmental weenies and ethanol. I need to see if there is a PURE gas station near me. I had a great farmers CO-OP in VA....

Motor is running very well, at least seems so, idles strong, pulls well from 2,000, and STRONG from 2500-5000, even feels great the last 500 RPB, but just a little less urgent in power.

Looking forward to meeting up with a few people, letting them drive/listen and maybe drive so I can compare. I know it probably seems retarded to you guys, but I have never driven an Air Cooled Porsche, 911, 912, 914 or 912E, so I guess I have nothing to compare to, but it really sounds and feels good, and except for a VERY small hesitation that comes on when after holding in 3rd or 4th and sustained RPM, the first SLIGHT pressing/feathering of the gas causes a lean (15:1) and slight hesitation. A quick stab at the throttle leaves NO hesitation, just the slight. I wanted to go to cars & coffee this weekend, but will be in Seattle all day at a training conference.

Overall I am happy, look forward to getting sound insulation and carpet and seats in! The singer sewing machine sound (silky) takes some getting used to and the unmistaken VW mechanical sound is present, but I think that is the nature of a flat 4..... I REALLY like the sound the Tangerine Exhaust makes.....

ISSUE 1: My thermostat does not expand............. I bought one of those ones from the guy who makes new ones, forgot the name, will look it up and contact him. Flaps are open 3/4 for now so things don’t get too toasty

ISSUE 2: The Transmission is LOUD........ and once warmed up is very noisy when idling in neutral. Is also balky, making shifting back in to 1st a challenge on occasion. DEFINATELY a Dinosaur....... I initially put cheap dead dino oil in it so I could run the first few hundred miles to clean out any rust, or debris from sitting for 20 years. I DIDDNT do anything to the transaxle but clean the outside and change oil. Will add the slick expensive stuff soon.


PLS feel free to wreigh in with some wisodm, I am all ears.....

Well, this AD freaked me out for a second...... Thought someone was running a spoof ad. This is a very nice car, and looks to be all original. Will be interesting to see what it sells for. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-912-912E-/...em=161882990640

[quote name='Steve Pratel' date='Nov 4 2015, 01:14 PM' post='2260616']
UPDATE

Well, 500 miles into the engine already, NO major issues. I adjusted the valves and changed out the break in oil at 300 miles, then readjusted timing and idle. Also installed the Oxygen sensor, and ran the AFM for the first time.

AFM - Basically ranges from 12-13:1 for average running and idle and when cruising in top gear light throttle hovers around 14.1-14.5 when at a very light throttle, but mostly is right at 13-13.5. I THINK This is good for an air cooled motor, you want it a little rich. Correct? FULL throttle pedal to metal is 10.5 ish. At least that is from memory. I know the MAGIC # is

I initially set the timing off the 'factory' red line, but on readjust used the mark I made for TRUE TDC, which is one fan blade off. Motor runs as smooth but feels better overall, about a 3-5 degree difference (less) than the red mark.

As the motor has broken in and the 30W oil out, the engine cranks much faster. Still think the starter is a bit slow and weak, but I have nothing to compare it to.

Running Hi Test (94), didn’t want to risk a lower octane at start. When the tank needs refilling, will try 5 gallons of mid then regular. I am also adding a bottle of seafoam or Lucas to every tank given the idiocy of environmental weenies and ethanol. I need to see if there is a PURE gas station near me. I had a great farmers CO-OP in VA....

Motor is running very well, at least seems so, idles strong, pulls well from 2,000, and STRONG from 2500-5000, even feels great the last 500 RPB, but just a little less urgent in power.

Looking forward to meeting up with a few people, letting them drive/listen and maybe drive so I can compare. I know it probably seems retarded to you guys, but I have never driven an Air Cooled Porsche, 911, 912, 914 or 912E, so I guess I have nothing to compare to, but it really sounds and feels good, and except for a VERY small hesitation that comes on when after holding in 3rd or 4th and sustained RPM, the first SLIGHT pressing/feathering of the gas causes a lean (15:1) and slight hesitation. A quick stab at the throttle leaves NO hesitation, just the slight. I wanted to go to cars & coffee this weekend, but will be in Seattle all day at a training conference.

Overall I am happy, look forward to getting sound insulation and carpet and seats in! The singer sewing machine sound (silky) takes some getting used to and the unmistaken VW mechanical sound is present, but I think that is the nature of a flat 4..... I REALLY like the sound the Tangerine Exhaust makes.....

ISSUE 1: My thermostat does not expand............. I bought one of those ones from the guy who makes new ones, forgot the name, will look it up and contact him. Flaps are open 3/4 for now so things don’t get too toasty

ISSUE 2: The Transmission is LOUD........ and once warmed up is very noisy when idling in neutral. Is also balky, making shifting back in to 1st a challenge on occasion. DEFINATELY a Dinosaur....... I initially put cheap dead dino oil in it so I could run the first few hundred miles to clean out any rust, or debris from sitting for 20 years. I DIDDNT do anything to the transaxle but clean the outside and change oil. Will add the slick expensive stuff soon.


PLS feel free to wreigh in with some wisodm, I am all ears.....

The 915 gearbox was never very cultured,Swepco gearoil is proven to smooth out the shifting and is better for the sycromesh,never head of it making them quieter.
The noise of the transmission has been well documented since the cars where new.

Re-assembled and installed my door panels and test fit rear deck.

Using the original stock Top Trim pieces (Cork), a set of Door handles, arm rests and pockets I bought at Hershey, new Door Panels, aluminum door handles and window crank. Speakers are Infinity Kappas, 6.5 in doors and 5.25 in rear deck. The Infinity speakers are VERY nice units, the mid/tweeter is directional, and you can point it for better dispersion of mids and highs. Also have a hifreq filter switch built into the tweeter. THe only thing I'm not thrilled about is how big the grills are, could have easily been 1/2 the height, would have looked far more refined. Isnt too bad on the doors, but look a bit wonky on the rear deck.

Installing a Tan Carpet Set from Robert Budd at Classic 9, lined the whole rear engine firewall with hush mat, and then sections of the floor to cut down on vibration, and will cover the whole floor and rear seat/firewall with 3/8 closed cell foam from super sound control foam with a self adhesive back. Don't think I will do the center tunnel or side rockers, just the floor and rear areas. COMING ALONG!

Right Door. THe pull handle, arm rests and pockets are from an 80's model, MUCH better than the original 70's era pockets. Much easier to install and more sturdy.


Left door. I need to align the dash pad, was missing the anchor bolt on the left side.


A bit of a panorama, still need to install Head unit (Using Blaupunkt Toronto 420)


Test fit the rear deck, am considering not using the rear seatbacks, just the seat bottom. I'm lining the whole area with 3/8" closed cell foam, so will be more comfortable.

Progress continues, including some revisions. I diddnt like the location of the AFM, was blocked by the steering wheel, so I removed the left dash vent, replaced it with the original clock, and moved the AFM to the center gauge cluster where the small VDO clock was. Much happier in this location.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment


Making progress on the interior, got my carpet set from classic 9 and started installing. Tell ya what.... SOMEONE needs to make a premoulded set for this car.... I covered the rear firewall and most of the floor with hushmat, then a pressure sensitive (self adhesive) 3/8 closed cell foam. Hopefully will mute much of the harshness.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

deleted double post...... duh

I had a Dream............... Well, I had to give credit to Dr. King. Were it not for the day off yesterday, I wouldn't have been able to complete the carpet set and a few other essential pieces. Still need to order visors and rear seat belts, install the door light switches and trouble shoot a few things, but real progress. I am going to try to do a dummys (cause that's what I am lol) guide to carpet install, I made some significant mistakes during the install, most were recoverable, but not all. Here are some pics.
Attached Images

Even though I still need to mount the passenger seat, glue in the rear seat cushions, and cut in the seat belt rubber boot, I couldn't resist taking the car for a long drive to see how my sound insulation efforts went.

The Lord was good to me, the rain stopped between about 1pm & 5pm allowing me about a 3 hour drive in and around the Lacy/Olympia/Rainier areas. Prior to this I had driven about 500 miles with no sound insulation and the engine was loud and transmission even louder. I layered the entire firewall and the flat panels of the floorpan with 2 boxes of hushmat and then covered it all with 3/8" closed cell foam. With the carpet set, I am at about 38lbs for carpet and sound insulation.

The results? At start and Idle, the engine and transmission are very well muted, and I hear the engine sound more from the vents above the rear window than through the firewall or tunnel area. VERY happy about this. Road noise is well muted, though at speed I am wishing I had used CSF or hushmat on the roof, as this is where most of the noise comes from except at WOT and holding at 4000-5000 RPM. The engine booms when holding at 4500 RPM and higher, and the noises through the firewall and interior with all the sound insulation is a very nice muted growl and induction, with a little exhaust as well. The clatter of the gearbox is gladly 99% GONE.

I'm thinking the ride height is just right. I was thinking of dropping the rear a bit more, but I think this works well. I am super impressed at the combination of Rebel Racing suspension bushings and the Sachs Shocks. The car is well damped, extremely responsive, smooth and has no harshness, clunks or rattles. It is solid as a bank vault and I would say it is just a tad softer than the M3 in its ability to soak up bumps rumble strips and those awful recessed reflectors.

The motor continues to run flawlessly, there is a very slight fuel starvation issue with light throttle increases when at high RPM's (i.e. when at 4500 rpm in 3rd gear a very slight throttle advance will lean the fuel mixture (shows 16-17 on AFM) and a slight hesitation. If I get deeper in the throttle it is fine, cruising it is fine, full throttle it is fine, routine driving is fine, its just at this point. I want to play with the timing a bit to see if that will help. The engine is very responsive, and top gear acceleration is adequate, though a downshift wakes things up. Power is a relative thing, and this is NOT a muscle car, but no slouch, makes 60 in 8.5 and keeps pulling strong at 100 in 4th. Good enough, and this car in NOT about drag racing it is about the total experience. I can't wait to take it on its first drive up to MT Rainier or the Olympic Peninsula.

I cant wait to see how it drives and handles after a proper alignment, everything is set neutral (to the eye). Even so, the car tracks beautifully, though the steering is a bit slow to respond and there is more body lean than I'd like. Then again, my daily driver is an E36 M3. After I get the car aligned (this weekend) and I drive it a bit, I amy opt for a thicker front roll bar and rear bar, but I dont know. I have to let the car talk to me a bit.

The Stereo and Infinity Speakers ROCK. Though the rear speakers lack the necessary depth for full bass, they balance out enough of the high tones to make the sound feel rich and full and the 6.5 Infiniti Kappas in the doors are incredible and take all the 50W head has to offer with full bass and balanced sound, so no need for an underseat subwoofer...... Besides I'm 51 you know? Dr. Drey has no pull on me....... That said, I wouldn't recommend these speakers unless they were going to be mounted behind a grill. THe Kappa grils stick out about 3//4" and IMO, arent bery aesthicially pleasing. Only one rattle in the interior, the car is very solid.

I'm very happy with the gauge changes, the clock looks great, and I have clear view of the AFM/volt meter. The Mom wheel makes the 50-70 area of the speedo unreadable, but oh well. I may eventually invest in one of those momo offsets, but I'm not too worried about it. The right side controls of the Stereo are just beyond comfortable reach, though the rest of the controls are natural in their feel and response. The single One nice surprise was just opening the windows allowed air to come out of the dash vent and the now single vent outlet on the fan feels much stronger. I'm a bit of a symmetry fanatic, so it is hard to see the dash unbalanced, but I much prefer clear view of the gauges and a stronger airflow from the vent.


All in all I am beyond psyched.... Army Life and 15 years of war has burned much of my ability to truly 'feel' but yesterday I actually had a very nice moment of elation. I just hunted out back roads, and found these horses. I stopped to take a picture to send to my girls and while doing it the horses started dancing and jumping around. I got a bit nervous one was going to jump the fence.

Many people to thank, and I will wait for that until I am finished. Still need sun visors, trunk carpeting, and a few other odds and ends.

Well, where's the LIKE button?

Good photo. Your car looks great. The color of the horses goes well with it. Thanks for all of the updates and photos of the build. Congratulations!

Steve, you live in Washington not the mid Atlantic region? The car looks swell! Ride height is perfect from my perspective. Yes, yesterday was a nice break in the weather. This am looks to be nice too. Go for a drive if you can.

I live in Dupont, just about equal distance between Tacoma and Olympia, assigned to JBLM. I was in Alexandria VA

Next time you drive east on 512 wave. I live about 1 mile south near the canyon road exit.

Beautiful. Congratulations on getting her on the road.

Roger that, will have to get together some time.

Progress continues, trying to put a few miles on the car, fine tune the carbs, and make adjustments for daily driving. REally like how the car is sitting and looking. I'm thinking the foglights may go, they are too big.

Click to view attachment

The COCO mats finally came, took 3 weeks, but they look great and are super high quality.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

I initially set the motor up with ITG filters and 1.5" Velocity stacks. I also picked up a set of RAMFLO filters at a swap meet for $25. Am trying them out. The main difference seems to be sound, the RAMFLO's without V stacks is much quieter at WOT. Midrange also seems a bit weaker without the V Stacks, but may be related to other tuning issues.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Rounding the corner, down to little items and refinements. Installed the trunk carpet and put a rubber mat down, put all my hambone stickers on, even did a grocery run. It was nice on Saturday so after a drive I washed the car, and parked next to the M3. Funny, the 3 never looked stodgy before. I'm definitely going to swap out the Hellas for something smaller, will put them on the Jeep.

And now that I have some more spare time on my hands its time to show the 3 some love. Replaced the cracked and peeling wood center console with a black piece. GOt it from ECS tuning, didn't have the cut out for the power locks, but a few seconds with the dremel fixed that.

Congratulations! A beautiful build!

I noticed that your rear windows swing out. Did you do the modification?? I own a 912E. It is bone stock and the rear windows are fixed. How about your front wing windows? Do they swing out? Mine are fixed.

RenoRoger

M7 '76 911 rear windows are popout's like Steve. On the '76 the vent windows are fixed.

Our cars are twins!

Click to view attachment

Thanks guys, has been a ton of fun. This was my first P car. WONT be my last.

I was just about ready to do a hotrod/modern handling restore on an 86 Olds 442 when I found this 5 years ago, its safe in a garage back east. I'm ready for the next project ;-) Been looking at several options, want to go Targa or convertible, but I'm only 6 years from retirement with at least one more deployment to AFG/IRQ and likely a European Assignment, so will likely hold unless I come across a great deal on a long nose targa. I want to retire with a modern Targa or Convertible.

As for the rear windows, The PO added the pop out windows in 1980. Vent windows are fixed.

Dude, I love your light blue Targa!

As part of my rebuild, I initially installed an oil pressure safety switch to run the fuel pump, this way if I leave the key on or the car stalls or am in an accident the pump won't continue to pump fuel into the engine compartment.

I kept the original wiring and fuel pump relays which activated the pump when in start and when there was a signal from the airflow sensor. I initially installed a Normally Open Oil Pressure switch, and when the oil pressure hit 4 lbs the contact would close and keep the pump running.

The only problem with this is that when the car sat for 2-3 days most of the fuel would drain out of the fuel lines and back towards the tank, essure. This meant that the car would often stall immediately on letting off the key because the pressure in the fuel lines wasn't up, and if the motor didn't crank enough to build oil pressure.

To prevent this, what I was doing was jumping the fuel pump, listen to the fuel fill the bows, then go and start the car, all was good. This was kind of a pain. I could have just jumped the relay and called it done, but that left me in the always on if the key was on. So I started doing some research and found this fuel pump controller http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html among others.
The advertisement says the pump runs 3 seconds at initial key on, but mine runs 10 seconds then shuts off. This allows proper priming of the fuel system, and will shut off if the engine stalls because it gets a signal from the negative tach lead.

Of course I have no idea how long this thing will work, so I also built in a jumper to the wiring, so if this controller decides to crap out I can just plug & be back in business. Not bad for $60, I got mine cheaper on Amazon, and I am sure there are other options.

If you are converting to carbs and dont want to run the fuel pump 'on' all the time with the ignition, this is a great solution. Easy to wire in and go.

Your car looks awesome Steve! Very well done.

Well, I finally got the car for the alignment, went to Tru Line in Bellevue. they did a great job, the Tech was awesome, did a great job, answered all my questions and gave a detailed spec sheet. Great customer service and the car is spot on. If you are in the Seattle area, and need an alignment, I highly recommend Tru Line.

He took the car for a ride before and after the alignment so I also got a a chance to hear my what the Tangerine Header and Exhaust sounds like..... The sound was deep and mellow, and not at all like a 4 CYL or a Type 4/VW motor. I've heard many 914's over the years, as well as Bugs with and without a Type 4, and a couple 912E's. They varied in sound, some sounding like a VW other less so, but standing and listening as he ran through the gears I'd never guess it was a 4CYL VW. Of course I didn't think to video.

The CFR Exhaust and header is a quality piece, sounds, and looks great. Get it, you wont regret it.

I've been slowly building confidence in the car, and when I woke up Saturday, I felt the call of the Ocean, so I decided to drive to the Pacific Coast, ended up a flawless trip of 325 miles. It was a warm sunny day, at mostly highway speeds. Engine performed well, no issues, and even took a pleasant drive on the beach! I'm amazed at how solid and planted the car is at any speed, and had a blast in the twisties. The car is very driveable.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The only enduring issue is a lean condition with very light throttle input when coming off a coast. Hard to describe, but if I hold in gear, reve out a bit, then let off throttle, if I go light on the throttle as if to just maintain speed, I get a 2-3 second lean condition until I get deeper in the pedal. Also have a small leak on two pushrod tubes and the lower case seam. Not enough to drip, but is wet. When I do the 3000 valve adjust, I will probably pull those tubes, clean the o rings and reinstall. Not sure what to do with the other.

Oil Temps varied 180-190 no matter what I did, the external cooler and mocal thermostat adapter are working very well. CYL Head Temps averaged 300-325. Fuel mileage looks to be about 25 MPG, would be better if I could keep my foot out of the throttle but I'm having too much fun. I mounted the Cooler in the passenger wheel well. Not ideal, but there is good air movement when driving, and the angel protects the fins of the cooler. I also mounted in an oil temp sensor on the outlet and run it to the PLX multi gauge. (oil temp, volt and Air Fuel).

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment

I also did a 2000 mile oil change and also changed the sump for the first time. Found some sealant of some type stuck in the screen and some goo on the sump plate but nothing unexpected.

Click to view attachment

I finally got around to installing and relocating the Oil Pressure and Temp gauges with the Tangerine braided line. Used the Band clamp from the Carter Fuel pump, and connected to the case. Looks great and much safer than the wack brass setup I started with. Like EVERYTHING Chris does, this is well thought out and install is straightforward. Even an old marmaluke like me can do it.

Before

Click to view attachment

After

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I really am having a blast and loving the car more and more.

Took ours out this last weekend. It has the injection system and we got about 32 mpg on the highway. Not bad for an old car.

YUP............ more evidence that i am a retard. I've mentioned a few times that the fuel filling is torturously slow on #770, and while I dont mind slowing down to smell the roses appreciate that good things take time, it was getting ridiculous.... So today I decided to pull the filler and vent lines and take a lookie. Shoved down into the filler neck was my home made 'prefilter' Had to hook it with a dental pic and then pull out with needle nose pliers.

It's funny; we made the exact same mistake with my dad's 911 after coating the tank.

WOW! That's the result of coating the fuel tank? What's the point? Now what do you do Steve?

Beautiful car Steve. I've got to say that I'm partial to brown!

Here's a photo and a thread to a few comments about my 912e Outlaw.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-912...tml#post9125876

--Papermaker

Click to view attachment

Its hard to tell by the photo but that is just a tight ball of newspaper. I didn't re-coat the tank, I was fortunate to get a pristine tank out of a wrecked garage queen. I wadded up the paper to keep varmints/dust out of the tank while I stored it. I fished it out with a dental pic and needle nose pliers. All is well. Filled up in normal time.... what a relief.

Thanks Papermaker, Brown Rules! I went with the Bitter Chocolate because it was the factory color of my car. If I had a Targa I would have gone black. I totally dig this look.

Steve--

Mocha and cork are the stock colors.

--Papermaker

very nice looking car. Keep up the good work!

Gotcha. I've never seen a Bitter Chocolate Targa. If my car was Mocha, I would have likely gone with that color as well. I checked out your thread on PP Looks great!

Steve--

I have a rubber covered oil pressure line but I like your SS line better. Where did you get it and is it temp proof, does it have a temperature rating?

Also, did anyone on World comment about a 912e thread on a 914 site? I'm thinking about adding a thread about my car.

Thanks,

--John

Did my 3000 mile Valve Adjust today, first was after breakin, then at 1000 miles.

Overall, I am very happy with the results. I had 3 valves spot on and needed no adjustment, 2 were a bit tight, and 3 were about the same amount loose.

1 - Intake was a little loose, Exhaust was a little tight
2 - Intake was spot on, Exhaust was a little tight
3 - Intake was spot on, exhaust was a little loose
4 - Intake was a little loose, exhaust was spot on

Yeah Yeah I know I should have measured, but hey I'm getting old and lazy. Total Job was less than an hour including jacking up putting on stands, removing tires. I use a short cut method to adjust. Very easy on the 911 body, not sure this would be so easy on the 914.

ADJUST PROCESS:
o Remove distributor cap and timing plug
o Using a big box wrench Rotate engine with alternator nut so CYL 1 is at TDC.
o When #1 is at TDC, the #2 intake and #4 exhaust valves are also fully CLOSED and can be adjusted. Adjust #1 Intake and Exhaust, #2 Intake, and #4 Exhaust.
o Rotate engine one full revolution so rotor turns 180 degrees and is facing #3 and mark is at TDC again. #3 is at TDC. Now set #3 Intake and Exhaust as well as the #4 Intake and the #2 Exhaust. Badaboom, done.

I reset the timing, and used the factory mark as opposed to MY mark when I had the engine apart, the Factory Mark is 5 degrees more advanced than my TDC. I set it to 9 degrees at idle and ends up at 24-24 at 3500. Motor seems a bit Livelier, but I still really have no idea what the 'ideal timing should be with my particular build.

Everything looked great inside the valve covers, have used maybe 1/4 quart of oil, and the motor still screams, pulls straight to redline, no surging, great throttle response and torque. The only lingering issue is a slight lean condition with light roll on throttle input. In other words, say I am in 3rd gear, rev to 5K and let off the gas. If I feather the fuel back up to maintain speed, I get a 1 second lean condition. If I Am more aggressive with the fuel, there is no issue, so I am thinking it is ME that needs to adjust my driving style. I'd still like to take it to John Walkers garage or another shop in the area and have it put on a dyno for real professional tuning and a HP check, but I'm also cheap............. lol

I HATE putting my cars/motorcycles and $$$ into someone else's hands.

I want to say THANK YOU again to this forum and those who helped and gave advice along the way. Now its time to source the parts for a 2270

John, just saw this, sorry for the late response. I got mine from Chris Foley, contacted him directly for it, I dont think it is on his webpage.

I've received a warm welcome, nothing said to my 'face' 914 World Rocks. I'm sure there is some keyboard warrior who is offended but he will get over it. I put the 912E in the title as a courtesy so those who arent interested dont waste precious web time in a non 914 thread.

I (and others) have found that this often leads to valve clearances that are larger when measured at TDC. Not sure why, though. (Tolerance stack on the valve train?)

--DD

Steve,

Regarding your 912 thread on the 914 board:

I have really enjoyed watching you restore your beautiful 912e. Like many of the 914 restoration threads here on the World, I am gobsmacked by the quality of your work, attention to detail, and of course the stunning result.

So I'm very happy that you took the time to start and post on your thread. If my reading of history is correct, that engine in your 912 was supposed to go into a 914 but the 914 program got killed so Porsche stamped out a couple thousand 912e's to use up the engines. So the 912e is kinda a rear engine 914???

So thank you for your thread.

Steve--

Thanks for the feedback on the oil pressure line, I'll give Chris a call next week.

--Papermaker

PS. I'll start a 912e Targa thread next week also.

AND IT HAS A NAME (long post).

I've named a few of my motorcycles, but never named a car other than my first (a 1964 Buick Special names the Low Rider due to its rust sag). One of my motorcycles was named Bug Slayer due to my finding every bug on the planet to commit suicide on its fairing and windshield...... After my 400+ mile drive yesterday, I think #770 has decided on its name. And it is BRACKET KILLER............

So there I was........... Got an unexpected day off Friday due to Army Ball recovery, and decided to drive to Leavenworth WA to get a christmas ornament for my soon to be born grandson, and decided to take the scenic route. Will post on engine temps and experience in another post, but the first 300 miles were a blast. There must have been some kind of P car meet in the Leavenworth area, passed a ton of watercooled (aka fake ) Porsches of all types heading in to leavenworth.

Anyhow, I drove the snot out of the car, drove it like I stole it most of the day and all was well until....... I stopped for gas in Pomona and heard a strange rattle. YEP lower alternator bracket is broken again....... Upper bracket bolt worked itself loose (diddnt use loctite) allowed excessive vibration and cracked lower bracket. Is my fault. WHen I recently changed out my brackets (upper and lower) when I installed the upper it didn't 'torque' up right, felt like it was going to strip so I backed off. Obviously it worked itself loose, allowed movement and vibration and caused the lower to crack.

This will be Bracket 3.... The first was the original that fell apart when I initially disassembled for restore, the second broke after 2000 miles and this third after 900 miles. So.... I think it is time to pull the back end of the tins and fan housing off and see whats up....... Will likely have to tap a larger hole for the upper bracket. FUN FUN.

So, at 8pm in the rain in the Mountains, I limped home, kept the motor revs low, drove the speed limit and got home about 11pm. Made it home without problem, I was convinced it would throw the belt as the alternator is bouncing around and the belt is VERY loose. AH the joys of driving a 40 year old treasure.... Seriously I LOVE it.....

Here is the route.

Long drive from Pomona. even with a good running car. You were prob very relieved when you got to 512. Weird your car is eating brackets. I don't have any more of them.