Finished the tail lights over the weekend, the lenses polished up nice, and lights are bright. We will see how the directional relay likes the LED's, may have to solder in a resistor. Not bad for a $45 investment (plus time and paint cost).

inner details of taillight LED conversion. All units are sealed weather proof LED's, I had to gut the housings due to corrosion, cracked connectors, circuit boards, etc. I didn't want to spend the $$ ($350+) so I improvised.

The Directional/Tail light was a dual filament bulb, so I added drilled into the housing and added another light. All is held in place with marine silicone. LED's tend to last a very long time, but if one burns out will be simple to change. Was a fun project overall.

and the chocolate shall flow I never would have thought it, but this is the second worst color I've done for coverage. I initially bought 3 quarts of base, which once reduced gets you 4.5 quarts. This normally is enough for a 911. It has now taken 5 quarts ( gallon and a half reduced ) to get this far. I went and got another 3 quarts friday morning to get the outsides of the doors, hood, engine lid, bumpers and valances done. It is taking 9 coats to get full coverage Normally 3-4 gets it done in Shopline, 2-3 in Deltron

That is a lot of material, but it looks phenomenal!!!

Who took these pictures? This obviously isn't your camera.

NICE

Scott, looks great, will give you a call later.

I hate that. I had a ford factory color that did that. But even worse it really didn't show up until we pulled it out of the booth. At least you were able to keep going.

That chocolate looks delicious!

More progress, finished assembling the fan housing and alternator tonight. I was able to source a new lower alt bracket as the old one was missing the rear half. Thanks to Bruce Stone. Also pulled out the heads, man they look great. Havent really looked at them since I received last year, looking forward to getting it all together!

Housing went together well, and I sealed the housing with curil K2 before assembly. Interesting stuff. I am waiting for my new connecting rod bolts before I continue on the crankshaft, so doing some prep and test fitting. It took a good bit to figure out how all that goes back together, but I think I have it right. Found all the pieces except the little white plug thing on the left side. Why do parts look much worse rust wise in pics????

Tonight hope to put a light coat of black on the cyls and prep the case.

***EDIT, just realized I already posted this in the engine thread yesterday

Looking good, Steve.

Is that one of Pete Newman's alternator upgrade kits?

Thanks, a little frustrating right now with a few hardware issues,

Got the alternator direct from BNR parts, is an ebay seller too.

what color is your 912? looks to dark to be Sepia

Steve's is Chocolate/Cockney brown. This is Sepia

Assembled the short block today, everything went very smooth, no real issues or surprises. I reweighed the connecting rods and re cleaned everything. 3 weigh in at 813g, 1 at 812g, 3 of my piston sets are 503grams, and 1 is 504. Pretty impressed with the bearing fit and quality. Only had to file a bit on one of the cam bearings. the rest fit perfectly. I pretty much followed the 'conventional wisdom' found on the boards, with a few minor adjustments. Motor spins freely with even resistance, no 'hotspots' The silverline bearings fit perfect.

Took my time and double checked the cam bolts and oil pump clearance, all was great. Jorge at EMW really set me up for success here. I decided to use the windage tray, used a set of needle nose pliers and opened up the slots a bit but left it alone otherwise.

The most excitement of the day involved the cam. After I lined the cam and crank gear dots, I spun the crank to make sure cam lobes and crank and case played well together. In so doing, I put things 180 degrees out of sync. Was an easy fix, just pulled the dist & gear and rotated 180 back, and all was good. Of course lots of 'is it clean enough' thoughts, but all in all it went well.

Finished product

SOooooo I ended up repainting the whole car. I didn't notice it initially but I had a lot fo tiny white specks in the paint. I had this happen once before and it turned out that the pigment had been sitting on the shelf long enough it had separated and started to harden. I am assuming it was the same thing this time as well. Anyway, here she is almost ready to go home. This time around I got PPG Deltron, and instead of 9 coats to get coverage it took 3

bitchin....

is it real?

looks great!

Nope......Memorex

More progress on the motor build, spent 2-3 hours last night and 1 hour rechecking today and came up with 27.09 as my final measurement. Virtually stock......

This will give me a total lift of .437 at the valve on a .430 lift cam, and about perfect alignment of the valve stem and adjuster with some room for adjustment on the swivel head and acceptable spring compression at full lift. Overall I am happy.

A few thoughts...... Its not that big of a deal..... overall lift diddnt change much regardless of pushrod/adjuster, what really changed was the ALIGNMENT of the valve stem and adjuster at half lift.
I had to make significant adjustments for this, and diddnt really change overal llift at valve, maybe .5mm. Once I finished, I re-lubed the cam with the assembly grease, and dissasembled the head and cyls. As I stated before, I just slipped the pistons on teh con rods and ran in cyls without rings. This allowed guaranteed TDC and c rod slap inside the cyls.

I did this on cyls 1 & 2, and came up with slightly different figures (a bit more lift on cyl 1, but within the recommended 5%) Now on to the pistons & cyls.

Am using an EMW G cam (430LIFT), lubealobe LIfters, OEM 911 swivel foot adjusters.

Rocker Zero Lift
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Half Lift
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Full Lift
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Finished Pushrod 27.09
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Moving on to Pistons & Cyls.

As this is my first time doing any of this, I am in measure 4X mode and double/triple check as I go. I had earlier weighed and matched the pistons and con rods, so now that it is time to assemble, after cleaning everything well, oiling the interior of the cyls, I started laying everything out. I weighed and marked each Con rod as well and matched them to the pistons by weight to be equal within .07 grams. I also had the crank, fan and flywheel balanced, so hopefully this will end in a very balanced motor.

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After cleaning I taped and sprayed a light coat of high heat black on the cyls.

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One of the things about the KB pistons is they are not directional, meaning there is no arrow. That said, there is a STD mark on each piston and I decided to orient things so that the STD's will be facing up in the motor.

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This is my first time using Spirolocks, and while they take some getting used to, they look bulletproof. I found opening them about 1/2 inch and to 'thread' it into the spirolock slot in the piston was a great way to get started, otherwise when you try to press the ring into the slot it kept slipping out.

Because you need to install once side of the spirolocks before attaching to motor, and I determined my pistons would all face the same way, I had to be particular about what side I put them on. I will probably go in order 4, 3, 2, 1.

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I also thought I would post a picture of a tool that has been INVALUABLE over the last 20 years. I originally accidentally bent this screwdriver back in the late 80's, and it has saved my butt more times than I can count. Happy accidents!

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Overall the KB pistons are works of art. Top notch quality, very impressive. Floating writs pins are also a plus.

Of course all good things come to an end..... After measuring the ring gaps and adjusting so all were the same, I cleaned them up and started installing. The 2nd compression ring has a dot that must face up and of course I made sure it was..... I wish. I realized what I did, and when I tried to pull it out, in an attempt to not mar the side of the piston, I pulled just a little too far and it snapped..........

So I went on, it was for piston #1, so I figured I'd go to #4, and work my way down, get 4, 3 & 2 installed and then #1 when I got the extra ring, but unfortunately, my cheap @$$ ring compressor sucks..... Wouldn't compress the oil scrapers enough to insert into the cyl. grrrr.

It was interesting to see the difference in ring gaps when uncompressed.
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The compressed measurements, ranged from .18 - .20. I initially wrote .22 but it was actually .20 as the gap wasn't even, it was angled .22 in the inside and .20 at the outside. Click to view attachment

The Top ring gaps are now all at .20, and even, not angled. The Second ring is a uniform .15 and was not angled. It almost seems as though the top ring set was resized/modified? I need to ask EMW about this. If so, was pretty shoddy work. KB recommends opening the top ring gap by .10, Len Hoffman says leave stock, and Raby says leave as is, so I'm guessing going from teh stock .15 to .20 is a met in the middle compromise. Most important to me is that the gap is even.
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And the broken ring............... Can I just buy ONE? or do I have to buy the whole set? Things are busy before Christmas, but I will run to Napa tomorrow to check on the ring/ringset and to pickup a real ring compressor, and drop the pushrods off at the machine shop to cut and assemble the pushrods.

Hmmm, the Gun range is right next to the Napa...... Yeah I need some trigger time.... Gotta stay fresh on the conceal carry skills.

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Once my plan to set pistons and cyls was kaboshed, I decided to finish altering the cooling tin for use with my 911 pressure gauge and the Pertronix Billet distributor.

The Pertronix Dist is MUCH larger in diameter than the stock Bosch. I used a ball peen hammer and slowly shaped a divot in the cooling tin for the distributor. The result is about a 1/8" gap between the tin and spark plug wire boot. Even with the modification, I have to take the cap off the distributor, mount the distributor and then cap, but it fits well.

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I also had to open up the oil pressure sender.to fit the 911 style oil pressure sender. I'm using a 911 pressure/temp gauge as opposed to an idiot light. I was planning on using a t block to run a pressure switch for the idiot light too, but It doesnt look like it will fit with the oil cooler and cyl in place. Jury is still out on this. At a minimum, I will run the temp & pressure gauges.

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3 Steps forward? 2 steps back..... Yesterday I finished sizing the engine tin for the oil pressure sensor and Larger Distributor. Everything fit individually, and looked good. But as I looked at the oil pressure sensor, it looked a bit high so I decided to check and see clearance for the Pertronix, and sure enough it is too tall. I had bought the pressure switch for idiot light and the sender for the gauge, but was having clearance problems so I decided to skip the idiot light sender (I dont need no stinking idiot light ).

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Yeah that wont work...... So this sent me to the local hardware store for some 1/8" brass..... Ended up with this. Is a bit of a goat rope, and hoping that this will work. What do you guys think? I will have to assemble in sections, but this arrangement allows both pressure sender and switch, and allows full rotation of distributor.

Here is the finished product
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Working backwards without distributor
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Then without the pressure switch
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Then the splitter and pressure sensor
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And finally the extension, leaving only the one 1 1/2" stub and elbow
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Yes, I am asking myself WHAT DID YOU GET YOURSELF INTO............... OY

It looks better in real life than in pics.... But hey everybody has to have a little ghetto on their build right? lol I'm hoping that the 2 elbows will not be a problem with oil pressure, will I need to bleed this contraption? And of course I am thinking what fun I will have when I try to do the carb linkage.......... And of course after I ground that big hole for the sender to poke through the tin.........

You should switch that brass assembly for a hose Steve.

Great story and build thread. The paint looks terrific. My first 914 was a '73 2.0 appearance group in Sepia Brown - definitely lighter in color than the chocolate. The color grows on you for sure.

Yeah, I was thinking about that and the possibility of leaning on the unit and cracking the boss..... Is such a line available? or should I do barbed fittings and clamps on oil line?

Check around; there may still be adapter kits available. I have heard of people using a grease gun hose and some adapters as well.

The pipe creation is going to put a lot more stress on the mounting boss. Bad idea IMHO.

--DD

I recommend against grease gun hoses and paintball gun hoses.
The rubber in them isn't designed for the chemical/temperature environment.
We're starting to make our own hoses from Aeroquip parts.
Someone suggested a brake hose but I haven't seen that in usage yet, and I'm not sure about availability of the proper adapter fittings.

Aeroquip or Earls the parts are readily available. I believe it was -04 line & fittings

David

Look what I took home yesterday Just in time for the New Year, just waiting on the bumpers and valences. Really looks great, Thanks to Scotty B!

Diddnt have much time to do more than pick up and drop off at my storage garage, had to get back home for the NYE borefest at some snobby wine & cheese place (EHEM, I mean a wonderful NYE celebration ).

Now its time to start sorting out the wiring, interior gauges, etc.

On the trailers at Scotty B's
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At a gas stop.
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Progress!

Finally have the Long Block mostly assembled, things are going well. Next up is pushrod tubes and a few more accessories. Still have to finish the temp sender wire. Hopefully the machine shop will finish my pushrods by the weekend. If so, I will be able to button up the motor. I've already mocked up the intakes, carbs, etc, and all looks good.

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Under cyl tin fit perfectly
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Great progress Steve - should be ready for Hershey right?

That paint job looks sweet ScottyB!

If all the stars align.... I should have the body complete and engine in and running, but not sure if I will have the interior finished or all the kinks and and issues sorted out.... I'd love to, as I think this will be my last chance for several years. I will PCS this spring no idea where yet, find out in Feb.... If I get the East Coast, FT Bragg, Benning, Stewart, Drum, will definately be there in 2016, but who knows.

As my Italian forbears would say................ SHEET SOMMA A BEECH

I have a local machine shop, two man shop, been in the same location since they built the place 43 years ago. And it looks it.......... Old School everywhere, the kind of place you just want to hang out in..... They do impeccable work.... Meticulous, to the point of obsession, literally had to look up my engine in a book to see and visualize what it was.......... etc, bet they'd get along great with Jake (sorry bud ) The More I tried to say 'look, I just need you to cut it to this length, then press this end on, the more in-depth and demanding he was.......... He called me over the weekend after he did his first one, left a 5 minute voice mail because he couldn't get it to a 50 thousands of an inch.......... I kid you not..... I had to cut him off and ask "Is 50 thousanths .0005 of an inch????" He says yes. I say "I think that's fine. He wants to be precise............ So I muster all my 'respect your elder military discipline' and a chuckle, knowing that they will be exact at least.

So I get a call today, he is done, come pick them up.............. After the 5 minute tail of what he did, how he did it, how much pressure he had to use to press the ends in after the cut............... He says "I spent 8 hours doing them, and $80 an hour, but your military so I'll charge you for 6 hours................ (SILENCE FROM ME) "Hello, sir? hello??

ME KEEPING CALM...... "Yeah, I'm not sure I heard you right, did you say 8 hours??" Yes, but I'll only charge you for 6, and remember, I only take cash........... ME " So one hour per rod?????????" He senses my frustration, and makes no apology, "hey. I'm only charging you for 6, and I wanted to get them right for you, and they are perfect........"

ME "OK, I'll be by, need to warm up the printing press, make sure my plates are precise when they print the bills..... " He doesn't appreciate my humor.... I tell him that my humor is far preferable to the alternative and that I think 6 hours is unreasonable. I'll be by with $200. Take it or keep the parts.......

He tells me to but takes the $200 and gives me the rods. I dont even want to look at them...........

Am I crazy to assume 2-3 hours MAX for this job?

I figured 30 minutes to set up the lathe/jig to cut, an hour to cut and debur the edges, check measurements/file as needed and MAYBE another hour to press the new fitting on the cut end???

I maintained my cool, but barely...........

OK, its not the weekend, but I need ............ eh make that a Tullemore Dew neat please....

Looks like Scotty will be shooting a lot of Brown this Spring!

BTW....'76 Chocolate Browns rule!

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When I cut mine on a lathe, it took 20 minutes to physically cut all 8 of them.. maybe 10 minutes of setup to make sure things were going to be the correct length.

You need to remind your machinist that there is such thing as the law of diminishing returns... as soon as you start/ break in the motor, the pushrod ends will seat further, shortening the overall length a miniscule amount....


A small pipe cutter for copper house plumbing works just as well

Sounds like he wants you to pay him to talk to every other customer he BS'd that day. I hate that shit. I had a similar experience. But not only was the bill massively inflated he cut one of my euro spec heads "S" unobtainium heads like a wedge.

Another machinist, specialized on 15k and up race engines, brought him a 121 head for a BMW 2002, E12 valves, cut the head like a wedge. 23 years ago and the head work was $ 500.00. By the time the head was recut straight it was .111 over the max cut. The head was ruined. Guy went on and on about how good he was with chevy's. Like it really made a difference what head he was working one.

Another specialty "Heads Only" shop, Brought them a second set of 928 euro heads. Asked about a price. Without even looking at the heads he quotes $ 900.00 each. I ask him if he knows how to measure the heads to determine how much he can cut them or if they are within spec. He says.... you measure them? I say, ya, There is a casting on the head you use to measure them, he say's where? I smiled, picked up the heads and walked out.

Yeah, seems this color is coming back. I bounced between several colors, dark forest Green (like the 912 in Spy Games), Ivory, that 80's Mahogany Metallic Brown, but Bitter Chocolate was the factory color, so it seemed the right thing to do.

My all time favorite color is the slate grey on black from the Movie Lemans (with McQueen) Saw it in the movies when I was a kid (maybe 73? was instantly in love with the 911.... That would have meant a complete interior color change too.

Even my anal retentive machinist could do that job in less than 2 hours.
An hour should be more than enough for someone who's done it before and has the right tools.

You would have been better off telling him to kiss your ass (sorry chaplain) and buying a fresh set to take somewhere else.

I've been super busy at work and progress, but no time to post.

Engine: Not much progress on the engine, but did accomplish:
- Finally got my pushrods back from the machinist, after a huge fight over his fee..... Wanted to charge me for 8 HOURS OF LABOR..... I paid him for 2 hours...... It got very ugly. In the end I told him take it or leave it. He thought he had me over a barrel till I told him to take the $200 or I was going to buy a new set, send them to California to be machined, overnight them to me and STILL take my wife out to dinner with teh $200 I had in hand. He took it without another word, handed me me the pushrods and I went on my merry way....
- Installed flaps and test fit all the tins, but need to change my engine mount to stop sag before I do much more.
- Mocked up the Carbs and intakes, waiting on a Throttle cable bracket.
- Still playing with the pertronix distributor fitment...... will probably have to re-index the drive to keep the lead/lug away from the cooling flap bar. I'm about to call it quits and go with a Bosch style distributor with Pertronix guts. MTF...

Body Reassembly: Lots of progress: Will do some breakout posts on the projects sometime in the future.

As I just got the car back from the bodyshop (Scotty B) and had to install the windshield washer bottle, and fuel filler, etc. I took the drivers fender off, and kept it off. HIGHLY recommend this as there is much work to do at this site when working on the brake, fuel and electrical systems.

- Finished brake system, installed front pads, and hardware, and bled/filled the brake circuits. NO LEAKS! I expected some kind of leak due to the amount of heat I had to put on the old stock lines to get everything apart. I have new rubber lines and the final hard line to caliper at each wheel, but the rest is all stock. Biggest surprise was no leak at the master cyl feed grommets.

- Installed the Gas filler door latch - ** If you are taking off the fender, and cant get the little clamp undone to remove cable, JUST CUT IT, and order a new cable. It is much easier with the fender off, turned upside down and you can see everything. I cant imagine doing it while on car, would have been difficult not being able to see.

- Installed mirror support in passenger door. Blue tape is because I am a clutz///

- Converted the rear defogger switch to a foglight switch - The rear defogger element is toast, so why leave a switch unused and spend $ on a factory style switch or go ghetto. Cost $4. I will use the old power lead for the rear window defogger to power as needed the accessory gauges I am adding (AFM, CHT, Clock, Fuel Gauge)

- Cleaned up and undercoated/painted my donor fuel tank. Fresh eastwood undercoat on bottom and chassis black/enamel on top. Really scored on this the tank is SPOTLESS inside.

Most progress has been made on electrical system
- Installed New/Used Heater controls
- Cleaned up fuse blocks front and rear, cleaned all connections, contacts and relays.
- Installed battery and grounds
- Tested and verified the wiper/washer/cig lighter/horn/rear heater/blower circuit works.
- Installed Relays for:
- Headlights (dual 40 am relays and fused for high and low beams),
- Foglights (Hella system, 15A relay and fuse powered by parking light circuit and switched by the new foglight switch)
- New accessory Fuse block, 40 amp circuit switched with ignition.
- Also stripped front wiring harness, pulled headlight wires out of fuse block, and wired in new leads to switch relays, added foglight power wires and re-ran/re-taped leads to each side, also re-ran horn wiring harness. Still need to wire in the relays, am waiting till I install all the lights before I power everything.

The only problem so far is the front blower seems to be dead. I tested power at the plug, had it on one pin with lever all the way to right,, but nothing from the blower, will do some research and run a test wire to check the fan before I pull the motor. Anyone have a troubleshooting guide for the fresh air fan?

Here are some pics, will update with 'how to/progress' pics posts later.

Just finished sketching out the head/fog light wiring relays using standard Bosch style Relays. I wanted to use the open round relay spaces in the fuse box, but would be about $75/relay for relay and socket, so went this way. I have the relays mounted to a small steel plate. In a past life, I had an associates degree in industrial electronics, thought I was gonna be an electrical engineer at one point.

The car did not have a Fog light Circuit, so I added one by converting the rear defogger switch to a fog light switch by changing the lens. If at some point I swap out the rear glass for one with intact element I can easily reattach and address a switch for the fog lights.

Because I want them to come on independent of the headlights (not just with low beam), but with the lights, I will take the feed for fog light relay from #7 license plate fuse or one of the parking lights, run a wire to the fog light switch & back to the feed side of the #8 fuse for fog lights. Not necessary as it is only powering a relay, but if the car is going to have foglights and has a dedicated fuse location for fogs, might as well use it. This will allow switched independent control of fog lights with parking lights, not just headlights. I do want to make sure it goes off with the key. After looking at the pics above, for a cleaner look, I decided to rework the relays so they are directly under the fuse panel, not shifted to the right. I know it will be covered by carpet, but if your gonna do it do it clean right?

I was surprised to see that Porsche crimped/soldered little brass caps on the end of the wires in the fuse panel, an easy way to replicate this is to heat and solder the tip of wire. I have a few other schematics to draw up, for the secondary fresh air vents and accessory power strip.

Great restoration +recreation, I like the hot-rodding touch of carbs +cast aluminum intakes on the T4. With a lightweight 912e and a responsive 2.0 this will be a fun car in the twistes!
Hang on to the injection parts, those will be added value if you ever sell the car . Your schematic sketch is going to be helpful with wiring up my current project...thanks for sharing
Marty

You certainly raised the bar on project wiring diagrams, that will be great info to have latter on. What program did you use to pull these off?

Microsoft Powerpoint. Being a graduate from Command and General Staff Officers Course has its highpoints/// other than the lobotomy ;-) **Edit-addition. For those wondering about this (got a couple PM's). All field Grade officers have to go to an exciting course called the Command General Staff College. It is referred to affectionately as the 'field grade lobotomy' where once fire breathing go getting push the limits Patton style leaders come out as 'company men' lol.

Been super busy at work and honey do lists lately, but have been plugging away, and planning out my electrical accessories and new circuits. Below are several wiring diagrams for headlight relays, fog lights and two layouts for an accessory fuse panel.

I made a bunch of progress on the body & chassis, discovered my front fresh air fan is bad, and once again that $20 boxoparts I picked up at Hershey last year bailed me out. Plugged the new fan unit into the housing and wallah it worked! Will swap i t out and rebuild/repair the original for future use. Also installed the rear taillights and front end of the car sans the drivers fender as I want to keep it off until after I finish in the trunk fuel tank and all. SO MUCH nicer to lean in and not worry about scratching the new paint.

I also put the clutch & pressure plate on and remounted the engine on the stand with spacers and to prevent sag. Hope to get to fitting the rocker arm assemblies today and buttoning up the valve train. Will take the pushrods out for the pre-start crank, but wanted to get it all in and clearances, etc. **Note to self, put lifters in before pushrod tubes.............. Pics to follow.

I Amended Head/Fog Light Diagram above and did 2 more. Adding indicator lights into console for the AUX fan, and fog lights & a few other minor changes.
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I am adding a switched accessory fuse panel for future expansion, as the stock fuse block only has two open spots. Diagram 1 has me using the switched relay to feed power to the aux fan and my stereo THROUGH the old stock fuse panel (#3 & 5)

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This diagram shows the same Relay and new accessory fuse block, but it powers the Radio and aux fan circuits. Haven't decided what way to go. Right now I am leaning on diagram 1 above. This leaves the accessory fuse block unused.

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Just seeing this for the first time. Nice color

Indeed sir, indeed

Progress on Motor Assembly.

Spent most of Saturday fitting and putting the tins on, as well as mounting the intake runners and carbs so I could test fit the throttle linkage. Took a bit of finagling, and adjustments, but the tins are all in place. I also reindexed the Distributor Gear for optimum lug placement in relation to the tin and air flapper control shaft. The engine is at TDC and when at the #1 firing point, I have about 50 degrees of clear rotation in both directions. I'm assuming that moving to 34-37D before TDC is turning the dist counter clockwise? Ah, that's for later..... lol

Overall I am pretty happy EXCEPT for that CB linkage.... man it looks UGLY.... (no offense to anyone)..... I think I'm just going to close my eyes and order the Tangerine Setup..... It will be worth it..... it will be worth it...... More parts to add to my 'oops dang it pile of re-sales.... I did plan to switch to this in the future when I go to this intake, but this is unnecessary at this point.

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Working hard to get the body and wiring and such finished so I can get it back to Scotty B for installation of windscreens and headliner, then back up to my house to install the Motor and try to start.... All before 15 June...... yeah....