Thanks for the pics.
Again, I'm blown away with the detail of work being done. It's a much larger project than planned, but I'm glad that I have Cary doing the work.

Got the horn functioning again on the blue car. Broken wire to the horn ring and a dead horn. Beep Beep.

Super In Law continues with the front trunk channel.

I spent the remainder of the day getting the engine ready to reinstall.

Siliconed up the new oil pressure sender. Did this when I walked in the door so it could dry while I was working on the blue car horn.
Zip tying harness up nice and tidy
Heat shrinking and tightening all open spade connectors
Installed new oil pressure sender
Torqued down impeller
Install flywheel, new seals & bearing
Install clutch and pressure plate
Install transmission and starter
Cut down the over length exhaust hanging studs on the back of the transmission mounts. Digging hole in muffler. Not completely thru, so I was pondering doing a small weld. But after hearing a little rust rattling around inside of the muffler I decided against it.

Mark showed up about quitting time with the new/shorter plug wires and some heat components. Between what he brought and what I have we'll get some heat flowing to the passenger compartment.

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Start today with checking the plugs and installing the new BERU plug wires.
Then the car goes back on the lift to install the new Bilsteins all the way around.
I'll do the small patch under the pivot mount location.
Then we wait for the trunk pivot from RD.

Putting the hammer down to get the blue car back to Mark first thing Monday am.

We start with applying 3m black snot to the top corners of the front trunk seal.
We'll let them set up 24 hours before we open the hood again.

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So while we wait for info and ETA on the rear trunk pivot I'll start welding in the patch pieces of the front trunk seal on the green car.

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Then around 11:15 I get a weird phone message. I'm trying make a delivery and I don't know if I'm in the right place. I thought it was for a package at home. No, Mark sent the pivot and the blower tube via courier.

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Whose part is this ?

So the blue car gets put back on the lift .........
I start making the patch for the hole in the pivot area. I use the tape pattern technique that Ed from Wheeler Dealers uses.

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Other than using way toooooooooooo much cold galvanizing spray. Which caused weld striking issues and tall ugly welds. Things were pretty uneventful.

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Then on to changing out the spark plug wires and getting them dressed out in a sanitary fashion. I'll do the same with the fuel line when we get everything all hooked up.

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I'm a dyed in the wool fuel injection fan. But the carbs do make for a nice and tidy wiring and fuel line dress out.

Rear shocks are out and ready for change out before engine reinstall.

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Cary, is that one of Marks' NEW front trunk seals? If so, is there a problem with how it lays or fits? Hope not as I have one on order.

Yes its one of the new ones. It fits nice enough that we're not going to use any adhesive other than the top corners. Tape job is kind of over kill. Mostly for paint protection laying in the snot. Then I laid those three crosswise to make sure the corner stayed down.
The problem some will run into is PO work inside the channel. Most have globed up farmer welds when an attempt was made to repair rust out. The blue car has a little on the right side channel.

Some food for thought for you and the in-law...
once you get through the brit's drivel..
really cool frame bench/rotisserie;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMT9Ykmneiw

That's pretty cool.

Too tired last night to post .........

Started the day with another episode of Hillbillies Doing Shxx. Here's shot of the right pivot. 1. Front threads that would hold in the pivot bolt are gone. 2. So they retap it for a 3/8" bolt. Which after testing holds torque. 3. Then they go ahead a put an aluminum bushing in the hinge arm. Need less to say its gone. Hmm. I want to get this car back to Mark on Monday so he can add so trim pieces before he leaves for WCR.
I don't have another pivot in my hand. If I get to do this for a living, pivots and rear trunk pans will be an inventoried item.

So we move to Hillbilly version #2. I head to Ace to find a bronze bushing for the 3/8" bolt. Not a perfect fix, but will last quite a long time. I find one, but its a smidgen too big. So Super In Law turns it down on the lathe. Too pissed to take pictures.

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He spent some time polishing up all the moving pieces. Lubed every thing down with the Locktite anti-seize stick. We had the usual tag team confrontation with the spring bars. I'm going to to come up with a better way. Too much time touching the paint. Too much time spent taping every thing up.
But the hood went in nice and flat. Might be off a mm or two left to right. Too much memory pressed into the hood under the hinge mount. With Mark's new paint I didn't want to grind it flat. Something to remember for future projects.

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Then we had a little trim issue to tidy up. Some one one only used one clip to hold it on. Probably not going to work.

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Taped off the area and laid down a little trim adhesive.

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Nice and tight n tidy.

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Don't ask ..................

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While I was in the rear trunk I used Mark's new harness tape to tidy up the rear tail light harness.

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Installed the new rear Bilsteins.

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The day starts with a stop at Ace for some 1/4 by 1/4 barbed fittings. Pressure side of the fuel pressure regulator was hanging on with one barb. Not leaving that way .........
Need to add a fuel filter (Mark I have a couple in stock) and fresh fuel hoses.
Then on to the front struts. But the front calipers need to be rebuilt. Pistons are hanging up. Hmmmmmmmmm.

Very nice Job Cary ,but I think you you have made a mistake with the Bilstein .The
big washer is up side down .Or this picture is wrong .



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Ralf

I have the hoses in stock so let me know what I need. My last trip wound up getting pretty screwed up and as most of it was through LA and the southern part of our system got a few extra days off as they subbed out another crew for us. I'm in town and will get a hold of you.
Thanks

Ralf, here's what I went with.

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Factory service manual

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Haynes

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Bilstein inserts that came with shocks.

The shocks on my DD are assembled the same way. Though be it, my DD is quite a bit lower. I set these at the same level as the KYB's that came off it.
We'll know were I'm at when its back on the ground.

The first order of business was getting those barbs inserted in to the old plastic fuel lines.
Plan A was to heat up the plastic line in a cup of hot water. That did nothing. Same result that I originally saw. Barely getting one barb inserted. Well that just isn't going to work.
Plan B. So lets heat up the barb. Hot water did absolutely nothing. Barely one barb. Hmm.
Plan C. How the hell did Porsche do it back in the day? Then it came to me. More heat.
So I fired up the Mapp torch. First attempt was too much. Melted the plastic pipe.
Then I slowly passed the barb 10 times thru the blue flame tip of the Mapp torch. Here is the result.

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Yet to be pressure tested. But they are nice and tight and don't turn.
We'll see tomorrow.

Tool Whore Note:
The vice grip fuel line clamp is the only tool that would cut off the fuel flow on the plastic fuel lines.

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While I was working on the fuel lines on the engine. Super In Law got after adding heat to the car. First task was to test the blower motor.

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Looks like the blower motor had been submerged in water. Super In Law did his electric motor magic and had it up and running in about an hour.

Then we blasted and painted the missing tubes.

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Then I started putting the pieces in.

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Then Mark stopped by with more stuff.
Front brake caliper rebuild kits.
Two sets of front wheel bearing.
A couple more clutch cable nuts.

And he dropped off the fender liners that we'll install on Monday.

Whats the spec on the orange heater hose? I had some silicone hose laying around that I used but its way too stiff.

Mats, I'll let Mark comment on the specs. But it is very easy to use and install. Just the right ID.

Hello Cary ,
yes Koni and Boge look different. The manuel shows Boge .
Please read this thread about Bilstein
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...217914&st=0

Ralf

The hose is actually a little easier to install than the OEM.

http://shop.914rubber.com/914-High-temp-He...m?categoryId=-1

Hmm.
Mine have been the other way 15 years.
I'll flip these over when I get it back on the ground. Only takes a few minutes.

Thanks for the heads up ....

Turn the engine mount bolts so the threaded portion is up.

Thanks, rhodyguy

Saw that this am. I knew something thing didn't look right when I got done. I was focused on the transmission mount. This was the first time I'd taken out the engine with the four small bolts on the tranny, rather than the two big ones.

Just mentioned it to Super In Law. He said, you'd think after doing 20-30 914 engine R & R's we would have caught that. Or not done that.

First order of business was the fuel line pressure test. Passed with flying colors.

The heater blower failed its power up test. Everything tested out at the relay socket except a signal coming from the switch. Wonder why .............

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Wire from the switch to the socket ohm'd out.

Then I installed Mark's J pipe grommets. That was followed with installing Marks black heater tubes.

Installing the new accelerator cable had issues. The bowden portion isn't long enough for dual carbs. To get the 90 degree turn needed to line up with the carb bar. It comes out of the tube coming out of the firewall. Which then allows water to enter the tunnel. I ran into a big chunk of rust about 3 inches into the tube. Cleared it with a short awl. The bowden needs another 3-4 inches to get a nice arc.

Back from lunch and I went after the front end. Switch out the struts, new wheel bearings and rebuild the calipers. Started with the right side. Strut pin came out without much trouble. Getting the strut off the a-arm that was another story. I just couldn't get the last 1/4 inch. But it finally popped loose.
Strut went back in lickety-split.

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Wheel bearings were SOP.

Then on to the calipers. After getting it in my hand, the rust that I expected was right there.

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When extracting the pistons with air. The inside came out pretty easy. But I had to put a c-clamp to hold the inside one in place. Then laid on the air to pop out the outer one. It finally popped out.

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To prep the pistons. I tape the outer bore and run the top thru the blaster. Then I clean off the rust/dirt build up with a Ro-Loc green conditioning pad. Then take to the buffer to polish up. Then a little brake cleaner to tidy things up.

Big family brunch for mom at noon. Then back to the grindstone.
Car is to be delivered at 10am tomorrow morning.
Coming from 30 years of grocery store management. No such thing as OT or 40 hour work week. I'm big on thru put.

If the right strut comes off. Should go pretty fast. I only had 3 hours on the other side. Even with the stubborn strut.
Popped the right pin and gave it a good bath of PB Blaster before I headed home to watch the Blazers beat the Warriors.

That will only leave bleeding the brakes (flush till clear on all 4 calipers) and bolting up the CV joints before 10am.

Nice Cary! Can't wait to see all this work in person. Talk about under the gun. Sure hope you have your car ready for WCR . Are you bringing the super in law with you to WCR?

My car is good to go. Just needs a good cleaning. I've been driving it everyday.

Had brunch.

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Then went back to work. Finished the left front.
Then went after the right side. Struts, wheel bearings and calipers. Nothing to exciting.
Refurbished the pistons and sprayed down the hardware with cold galvanizing.

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Didn't have too much trouble with the right strut coming loose which sped up the process. All that remains is bleeding the brakes and mounting the CV joints. Took some doing, but right on schedule.

Cary, Again, I thank you. There is no way I would be ready for WCR in time. I wound up getting called out and will be out of town til Late Friday night, but I'll get ahold of you tomorrow.

I think that if you "officially" open your shop you will have no problem getting work. The work that has been done is as I would have, if I had all the skills you and super in law have. I literally could not have done a better job, and your willingness to put the hours in..... you will not find ANYWHERE else. I would not expect that you would continue to work all the hours you are, but again....THANK YOU

Hmmmm.
Well then that changes the plan. That will give us time to make sure the heater fan switch is functioning 100%.

The primary plan is to get Mark a functioning and dependable car.

We did find the blue car will need a back half floor pan this winter. I've been 100% focused on the mechanical issues. So I haven't really looked at the sheet metal.
I know that Mark had already spent a bunch of money on the repaint and interior.
That's why I didn't do the quick & dirty change out on the front struts. That's the way we did them at the rally service stops if one blew up. But too much of a chance for scratches and dents.

So with my time extension I'll wire wheel off the floor pan and look for issues. It has multiple patches and we found one hole that will need a patch and seam sealer.

Now for the $1,00,000 question. How much am I charging per hour ?

Mark is getting the first paying customer, good guy deal. $30 per hour for two people.
I only log in and log out my time. Easy to keep track of. But other than this week end Super In Law is with me every day.

Next five projects will be $38 per hour for two of us.
Then we'll move to $44 per hour for a while.

Everyone told me to start at $50 per hour. But the cars just aren't worth that much yet. Because of the nature and the age of these cars they'll all have issues. And my primary mission is to get cars back on the road. Be it complete projects like Mark's green car. Or get a project started by doing the initial heavy lifting. Or get someone through a tough spot they don't have enough weapons for.

Refurbishing the fan/heater switch brought the fan to life.

Heater wire was ate by the rust worm. The one green car isn't any better.
75 and later cable is NOL.
For the heater wire. We'll pull the wire out of the green car and
experiment with soldering and or brazing.

Just for an FYI. We couldn't get the heater cable to solder together, but we did get it brazed. I cut it back 4" inches so the joint is well inside the tube. So there wouldn't be any interference issues.

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* Reworked accelerator cable
* Bleed brakes - twice
* Adjusted brake pedal free-play
* Reinstalled CV joints
* Removed drivers side seat and carpet for floor patch welding
* Trimmed and fitted floor patch
* Reset rear shock spring plates

Mark - you need clutch pedal stop for pedal board

Got pleanty in stock, thanks for the reminder

No on Super In Laws attendance. Company coming to town for the U of O Law School graduation on Saturday.
I told him he'd be the star of the show. Sill no go ..................

silver solder/braze would be perfect for the heater cable ..higher heat than solder lower than brazing ..
https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein....Next::1:::::PF5

I felt that there should be something that would need less heat than the brass.
Torch or soldering iron?
They're fine enough I felt like I should have been able to tin them and solder them together. I tried all the different solder rolls in my plumbing repair stuff. Wouldnt begin to adhere.

Note: we did hand file down the brazing to make them as smooth and streamline as possible. But not so much that it would reduce the bond.

Cary (or Mark) I've got the heater switch and pull wires left over from my conversion to a wasser pumper. Yours for shipping cost. LMK. Kent

We'll need wires for the green car. I'll let Mark chime in on the arrangements.
Save the switch for someonelses project.

Thanks, Kent.

Yes please. PM me with payment specifics.

Ok....better sign me up as your next client.
You'll have a lot of work to do on mine.
I'll be at Burgers and Beer this Thurs if you want to talk more.
You're looking good on Mark's car.

I'll be there, hopefully we'll have a chance to chat ........... sounds like it will be a big group. If not maybe I'll make a house call.

It would be an honor to help you with your project.

I have Matt's (Mark's brother, 914 Rubber staff member) car coming shortly. Not exactly sure what I'm getting into. I know I will convert it back to FI and rebuild the front end.

pm me your address.

Road rest ................

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After the no choke warm up. It idles and runs pretty nice. Hiccuped a little leaving the shop. Might actually need to cut back the accelerator spring a bit. A little soft.

Now back where we started ...............

After the road test went back to the front trunk seal channel R & R on the green car. Didn't want to loose the little pieces.
Reference number: Channel is .78 -82" wide ID.
I'm welding on the right. Super In Law is measuring, cutting and fabricating on the left.

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New lip welded in ..........

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Up to the front edge. Can't do it CW without removing the front panel.

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Here's Super In Laws work area .....................

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His work is exasperated by the fact that during the last repair the inside flange on the left fender wasn't completely removed.

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Right front all tidied up ..........

Super In Law is still working on the left front so I return to the bondo patch in the wheelhouse.

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Looking good

Cary - what are you using as replacement metal for the channel and/or how are you forming it? I predict a similar effort is in my future...

The two arrowed here are 18 gauge. We just cut out small strips and bend them with my floor mounted HF brake. Kind of time consuming, but for now it gets me there.
I talked to Jeff at Rothsport a couple months back he mentioned a small fabrication shop that might be able to make me up some 4 foot lengths. I think I look into it.

The other side will be 20 gauge. After putting it (right) in and tidying it up. It looked a little thicker than the good portion that remained on the front frame part. When delayering welds I call it the tub. I measured it, it was somewhere between 20 and 21 gauge. I'll cut it down the right side with the mini belt sander. Visually it will look like 20 gauge.

Hard part to repair correctly (CW & $$$) would be the outer lip on the front cross panel. At times you'd almost need to R & R the front panel to cut out and repair the rust in the corners and along the front edge. Primarily so you don't weld the two flanges/panels together like I did here. Maybe if we'd cut out a bigger patch we could have done it without welding them together. But I don't think so.

This car and my project are what Mark and I call keepers. So we're not real concerned with CW. Function and durability is what we're try to achieve.