Now on to the nasty part. Mark and I decided that we'd change out the right motor mount too. No saving any of the that mount so I cut it out is sections so we would do the least amount of damage to the upper long.
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Once again using the grinder and Steck tool to remove the spot welds. Sliced between every spot weld and worked them one at a time.
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Close Your Eyes if You Have a Weak Stomach
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I know the inside of the long is solid. The long is open and I can see and touch it.
Here's the patch I'll make. With a radius going over the top.
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Very productive 4 hour day. Seems like everything just kind of fell into place.

We do have a Lenco panel spotter. Haven't used it on the car yet. We'll see if it will fit up in there.

I think I have everything cut out and saved. If not the big pieces are setting on the table.

nice work. cutting out the bad pieces like that is such a tedious job, but worth it in the end

I'm there right now. You need as a minimum the speedometer cable outlet from the firewall and the shifter bushing reinforcing plate (or whatever it's called). Picture below after I removed it from the old firewall and cleaned it up.

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I'm going to weld this piece on tomorrow. I'm going to put the Tangerine Racing Shift Bushing on this, and this is what it's mounted to.

Keep up the great work, Cary!

I've removed the brake bias bracket and the speedo cable tube so far.
Haven't looked at the shift bushing that closely yet.

After Rob's friendly reminder I pulled all of the pieces that need to be swapped onto the new firewall.
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Notes for the location of the nut plates for the left inner firewall that has yet to arrive.
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Then onto the removal of the outer skin of the inner long behind the motor mount.
For the most part, the inner portion is in good shape. Nothing that a little OSPHO and cold galvanizing wont take care of.
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While I was letting the OSPHO dry I got after the remaining portion of the inner firewall attached to the tunnel.
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This time I used the spot weld cutter because I could cut from the inside.
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Much better than the last one cut from the outside.
One blow thru .............
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Stopped off at 914 Rubber and picked up a couple more pieces from RD and two rear qtr. panels.

After spending the first half of the week in the land of tail draggers. It's kind of nice to be back with the little cars.
I'm working outside doing my cutting, grinding and welding thing.

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Patching up the rotten spot on the upper long.
Start with creating a patch pattern.

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Fitted and screwed down and ready for welding.

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Welded into place. Leaving the top until I create the hell panel.

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Back to work .............

First order of business was filling in a few pin holes after the grinding was done. Then I refurbished and installed the brake hose bracket.

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Gave her a shot of self etching primer after everything was tidied up.
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Super In Law finished the suspension tie plates.
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He was tidying up the patterns so we can hand them off to one of our friends that does CNC work. If they can be done responsibly, we'll punch out 10 sets.

I moved on to the left engine shelf/firewall rust worm issues.

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Started with some pattern making.

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Then created the little patch next to the drain hole. Slow and steady wins the race.
Once again only two stitches. Then cool to the touch.

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Flange added back in ............ 7/2/16

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Next on to the firewall itself. With combination of the heater tubes and all the copper tubing in-place I'm pretty certain it will need to be installed in two pieces.

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That's the way I had to do it, Cary. I had only one heater tube on, but I couldn't make it work with everything else going on, so I sliced it up the middle and put it back together again. Sucks doing that to a beautiful new piece of metal, but it actually came out pretty well.

If you're making a handful of suspension ties and have any available, please put me down as interested. Thanks, Cary!

Now that we've perfected the patterns we'll be able to go forward. Hopefully we'll be able to get the parts cut out with a CNC run.
Right now I think he would take about 6 hours to hand make a set. Which would make them about $260 per side.

When the patterns are perfect we'll make a couple PDF files for those that want to DIY.
After Super In Law hangs my 55" computer monitor he'll start on the second set.

Half Day on Friday .

Started with stretching the heater tube holes a bit. A little too tight.

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Used a left over portion of an exhaust pipe from another customers Toyota All Trac exhaust repair.

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Needs to be able to swivel to get the correct angle of the dangle

Jeff Hail said there would be blood. Wrap the center tunnel first. Do as I say, not as I do.

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Cut my ear and put about 3 cuts on my head. Like a dumbass I took off my welding cap.

Lots of fiddling to get it too fit.
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Once again these cars were hand built. +/- 3mm. Fit both halfs before you start fiddling. On Mark's car the firewall is little smaller than the opening.
Here's the left and right shot.

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I would have liked to have put it in there in one piece. But it would meant removing all the tubes. So we sawed it in half with the band saw.

Worked the left side first.

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Right before leaving I slid the right side into place to see where we're at.

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Plan is to slowly and patiently seam weld the two halves back together to make the seam invisible. Two tacks, then cool to the touch.
Then use the spot welder and weld in the top flange. Leaving the sides loose until we install the floor and passenger fire walls.

Today is a Dad's Garage day. Back to work on the Audi. Trying a little Liquid Steel on some broken plastic hangers for the transmission cooler loop. Then fill it up and test the new Fan Control Module.
Pulled the drivers front window frame last Sunday to replace the broken glass mount.
Easy deal. Well designed door frame. Repaired was built into the design.

I had the same problem Cary. The ID of the heater tube opening was way too small on mine. I contacted RD and they told me to try sanding/grinding lightly. So I did. It took a good bit of time to increase it so I could get it over the tubes, and yes, it still takes a lot of finagling. I should have warned you on this one, but maybe I assumed it was only my issue.

Nice work!

Fiddled with the right side a bit so I could get a nice butt weld in the center.
After getting the gap I was looking for I pulled both sides out and punched the rosette holes.

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Then I decided it would best if I welded in the new hell hole sheet metal before I installed the firewall. It gives me a little more working room.
Step #1. Coat the inside with Eastwood HD Anti Rust.

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Then proceed to create the patch panel. After getting it cut out, trimmed, fitted and rosette holes punched. I applied the weld thru primer. Finally on to the good stuff. U-Pol #2 Zinc Rich weld thru primer.

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Rosette holes welded in. Slow and steady wins the race.

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Welded in and all tidied up.

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While I was working on the hell hole Super In Law was dialing in the Panel Spotter. I want to use it on the upper flange on the fire wall.

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He was working with new to new. And new to old.

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Now he thinks he's a metal sculpture.

Cary - Thanks for posting this. I'm in the process of fitting my new firewall and have the exact same gap on each side. (I guess Mark and I both got 914 'wide bodies"!)

I plan to cut off each "ear" and splice in a piece on each side to make it fit. That what you have planned or are you solving it some other way?

Thanks again and keep posting - I refer to your pics and documentation all the time!

Chris

I know I can't be the only one who'd be up to purchase a "Super In Law" t shirt!

Cary - you need to get a pic of him to one of our t-shirt making members and we should have a contest for the caption. Winner gets a first run t-shirt for free.

Super In Law says "Give it here, young man... I'll have that fixed in no time."

OK, so I won't win but I want a t-shirt!!

I'm thinking thats probably about how the original piece fit. But because they smothered it in seam sealer we really can't tell. My plan is to center it and see how much gap I have on each end. Just finished up the seam weld right before I left tonight.

As for the T-shirts. I don't know what he'd think. I told him he would have been a celebrity at WCR if he could have made it.

Didn't start on Mark's car till after lunch. Pulled the bumpers off my RS to get them freshened up before the Forest Grove Concours.

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Started with the most important function. Seam sealing the gap between the upper long and the wheelhouse. The lack there of caused most of Mark's wheelhouse rust issues.
Two coats of Evercoat brush on. Then an application of Fusor in the am.

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Then on to welding the firewall back together.

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I don't know what caused that gray spot. Must be polished different and it did not like flash.

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"And here, of course, is the new weapon you ordered."

Top notch work there Cary!

Mark's car on the new car dolly. This car is going on the back burner for a bit. Mark has another car moving ahead of it.

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Mark stopped by this afternoon with some hoses for the engine swap I'm going to be doing for him starting next week.
While I was organizing my new to me tool box (Cary (Tool Whore) play day). He and Super In Law dropped the old engine out of the new project car. They did a marvelous job. No blood, no bad words and they didn't even get too dirty.

I brought the engine from Mark's primary project car home. That will allow me work on it a bit at night after everyone else goes to bed. Beats watching TV ...............
Nothing major. Tune up. New hoses and clamps . Paint the tins and pipes. Inspect and clean up FI harness. Brighten up FI ground lug.

While the engine is out of the way Mark will give the engine bay a fresh coat of paint.
The engine bay and fender wells will get a good steam cleaning first.

Here's the before and after shot of tearing down the engine.

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Quite a bit of Dustless Blaster residue under the engine tin.

After some very detailed blasting in the cabinet. Everything gets a good spray down with OSPHO and left outside to dry overnight.

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Left the shop at 4:45. Inside temp 98 degrees with doors closed and no lights.
Damn hot . Tomorrow will be worse. Over 100.

Temps have dropped. Time to get back to work ................
Left Super In Law at home so he could lay low before his doctor appointment tomorrow.

Pulled out the hot washer pressure washer and cleaned up the engine compartment in the car Mark will be putting for sale. Two green 75 cars. One I call the Project Car. The other is the For Sale Car. Mark's going to do some touch up paint work in the engine compartment of the For Sale Car.

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Pressure washing on the lift is kind of messy. But the only way to get a complete job.

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After that I scrubbed down the all OSPHO'd tin with a red scotchbrite. The priming and painting has begun. Started with the intake tubes. Mark provided the factory gray paint. Left the castings raw/natural.


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First coat of semi-gloss black applied.

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Up early .................. Super In Law is chomping at the bit to get back to work.

Plan to day is to totally examine the For Sale car and create the work list.
Then I'll move on to replacing the left jack point. It will probably involve cutting an access hole in the door jam. Which is even more tricky with the birthday/serial number sticker on that door jam.

A little set back on the engine tin. If you don't paint wet on wet after a 1/2 hour, it's a 48 hour cure window. . I thought it was 24 hours. Rustoleum Semi Gloss. So that portion of the project gets moved to Sunday or Monday.

Thanks Cary,
I need to catch up with you this next week.
Mark

We'll be out there today (Sat. 3rd.)
Next weeks schedule, Monday and Friday. Doing the Hood River Fly In on Saturday with some tail draggers.

Friday's work ...................

Doing the jack point replacement going in from the cut out door jam.

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Covered up the birthdate/vin sticker for protection.

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Should have cut down another inch for better access. But it worked. Needed extension marked in yellow.

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This is what you get if you don't remove your rocker panels and remove the road debris.

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Inner layer of the long seems ok. I didn't shoot a picture at the end of the day. But the rusty portion is cut back and ready for a patch. A little more tinkering and she'll get a hose down with OSPHO. Then onto to cutting and dimpling the patch for the post.

Thanks Cary

Saturday's work.

Cut out the remaining rusty portions behind the jack point.
After that I soaked it down with OSPHO to let dry for a couple days.

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While I was doing the surgery. Super In Law was creating the patch piece.

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Mark stopped by after lunch to catch up on the progress and go over the plan.

After that we dug into the issues with the rear trunk. At the end of the day its all about the fit and finish. Well, we found a bent/crushed in pivot on the left. Which turns the hood clockwise. Then the right has some sort of hardware store sleeve in place of the threaded pivot bushing. Which makes it an 1/8" too wide.
So we ended the day by cutting a pivot out of my parts car. A little rusty so we're letting it soak till Monday. Then the mad scientists will light the PB Blaster on fire with the torch. That will break it loose.

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Taking a good portion of tomorrow off. Church and lunch with the wife and Super In Law. Then the wife and I will head downtown to look at work shoes.
After returning home I'll do a little sanding and touch up on the engine tin.

I'll be back on Monday night .............

You can thank God for your skills. Nice work!

Start the day with installing the patch plate. This is a picture of the patch plate matching up to the radius of the long.

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Then onto locating the jack tube. I hold it in place with one of my Eastwood earth magnets. Then locate it with the outer rocker panel.

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The patch and my weld in was off just a smidgen. But it gets covered up when welded in.

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Then I weld on the jack plate cover.
Hold it tight and in place with self tapping screws.

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We do add a couple drain holes in the cover to allow for drainage.


Then on to analyzing the issues with the rear trunk. We start with the bent left pivot. Then the correction of the right pivot. It was installed backwards. We'll make a few modifications and add a few shims to make it look correct.

Took a bit, but we found 4 hinge rod brackets to strip, primer and paint to match the car.

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Three days at Rothsport. Now back to work at our place. Super In Law is chomping at the bit.

Time for a little show and tell. I asked Jeff if we had any 10*50 mm bolts or Allen heads with a 1.0 pitch to plug some air pump ports on a 75 2.0L cylinder head, showing him the pipe cap arrangement that was on the car. He said that 10mm by 1.0 pitch is almost the same at 1/8" pipe so they use a 1/8" pipe plug when they need to plug the ports on air pump heads.

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We'll go back to work on the rear trunk alignment and hinges this am.
I'll go do some measurements on the couple 74's that are in the other building that haven't been touched in 15-20 years. Both of these have rear trunk lids on them.

Getting the rear trunk hood installed to my liking will take some creativity.
Taillight panel bowed out. Left qtr. panel bowed in. Be it not much, enough to bug the crap out of me.

Qtr panel bowed in : something for the next owner. 1/8 "
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Dug out our hood spring tools to install the springs.
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I'll go into latch catch support on the next episode. I'll take measurements off my DD this afternoon. Paying close attention to the depth of the closed hood.

Had a couple minutes before bedtime so I drilled out the broken off wire in the CHT.
Took a little persuasion with the 15 amp soldering iron to get the wire soldered in, but I got it. I have continuity from the tip of the wire to the base of the sensor.
I'll have to read the manual to figure how to measure the resistance. Getting 6.6 or something like that. Doesn't look right.

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Got a new phone yesterday. Much more better.

Thanks Cary,
Seems like every time I bring you a car, I find a bigger project. At least I'm getting this all dealt with!

If that's a stock CHT sensor, just put one probe on the end of the wire and the other on the threaded part to measure resistance. Leave it on the 0-20K ohms range and see what it says. Should be in the 2-3 range (2000-3000 ohms) at room temperature.

--DD

I do get the feeling that sometimes I'm the Bearer Of Bad News.

, goes straight to 00.00. More Bad News, it's an 012.
I'll have to dig thru my stash on Thursday.

We start the day with a stop at 914 Rubber to pick up some stuff for Mark's car.
Taillight seals & gaskets, trunk bumper, speed nuts & engine lid edge seal.

First task. Seam seal the top of the jack point.
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Then on to the tedious task of aligning the trunk. After quite a bit of trial and error we finally get it within 2mm. The back and side bow do create quite the challenge.
All the time knowing you need the correct panel overhang to keep the water out of the trunk. After looking at quite a few cars I'm using the lens lamination line inside the taillights.

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Then on to wrapping up the taillight harness with Mark's harness tape. I love this stuff.

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Then welding back in the jack point repair access hole.

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Forgot to shoot a picture at the ed of the day. Filled and primered.

Painted the access hole patch. Mixed to paint code. It's quite a bit darker laid right on top. Can sputtered a couple times and gave me an even darker blob that ran.
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I'll probably wet sand it and repaint the entire piece. Rim in front of vent to the sill seam. Won't be perfect, but a little more sanitary.

Trunk finally fitted to my liking ............

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Gave the trunk a once over with the cup brush and hosed the back half down with OSPHO.

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Then on to the late model heat exchangers.

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They were originally built with only two welds holding on the heater boxes. Hmmm.

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Then after looking at what needs to be done with the right side I determine that the blower feed is missing. So I dig thru Mark's box of heater tin. Low and behold theres a new lower portion. Just did a once over thru the exhaust page at The Bus Depot. Where did that part come from ?
And a donor top portion from the right side.

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If all else fails we'll create a new left with portions of the right donor.

Cary, I have a few late late he parts similar to the ones pictured That I have no use for. Send me an address and I'll mail them out.

PM on the way ...............

Thanks Kevin ............parts arrived safe and sound.
Like you said, you had the piece we needed.

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Check for the postage is on the way.

Thanks Kevin!!