Cool, thanks Cary. I should have purchased a brake months ago - would have helped me several times. If you find a shop that fabs it, please let us know. Awesome work, as always

I've got a guy that can set up and do this in quantity. Worth probably stocking.

Mark and I will do some measuring on Saturday. The issue is, it's so small/narrow.

I could do it as well.. If you get me measurements I will bend up some samples for all of you

It's made with a goose neck punch and a small 1/4" die. I could make up a ton of them this coming week if you want?

Everybody talking about making samples, I will gladly beta test your product and write a thorough review...

What is "CW"? It's been mentioned a couple of times, but without any breakout of the acronym.

Concours Weenie ............. those that want their car to be as it was delivered from the factory.

Some do it competitively. Some for future resale .........
Right now most restoration projects are being over restored anyway. So its kind of a moot point.

Thanks! That's what I suspected, but just wasn't sure.

Cary, the next to last pic shows 3 layers of metal. What is the center layer? Looks like my left fender was scabbed on as well.

Yep ............... Dandy

Mark stopped by yesterday and installed a set of his new, thicker version of the fender liners. I have a set of the original version on my white DD.

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Why everyone doesn't have these are their cars is beyond me. Held in place by the flex of the material and two brackets. The brackets reuse the existing hardware on the rocker and the rear valance. No modifications to the car.

What would the 914 World be like if we'd had these in the beginning?

Mark will be creating a nice DIY set of instructions.

I've been pulling my hair out with a wiring issue.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=285065
Needed some input so I started another thread.
Once again, the car is ready for Mark to pick up and tidy up for the trip to Medford/WCR.

Ended the day installing the rear bumper top support. After the fact installation.

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Used a self tapping truss screw after pre-drilling the support with a 3/16" hole.
After I unload the stuff off the top of the trunk I'll seam seal the screw from the inside.

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I am sad that I didn't meet up with Cary when I lived in Sherwood not to far from him...I could use some of his knowledge right about now.

Thanks ............

Mark, in case I forget. (Blue Car)

1. Fresh air blower works on the middle setting
2. Selection of fuses in glove box (hopefully they won't be needed)
3. I changed the instrument lamp fuse to 5 amp. (I hate and don't trust them SOBs)

While I'm working on the blue car getting it ready for WCR. Super In Law is rebuilding a good portion of the left front headlight bucket.
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While I was digging thru the totes of the parts for my project car I find my black headlight surrounds. Scrubbed one up and slipped it on to Mark's car.
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Wiring all wrapped up and reinstalled. Everything checks out.
All the twisting and turning needed to reinstall the fuse panel made me little nervous.

Knee pad reinstalled. Missing one cage nut, last right bottom, The rest of them worked fine. Tow bar hardware installed.
We spent a little more time making the headlight covers look a little better.
Car dropped off at Les Schwab at 3:30, its in your name. (phone number).
I told them it needed to be done by 10am.
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4. Didn't check the brake lights. We'll do that tomorrow night.
5. Fuse #11 is touchy. Did a quick bang bang on the driving light flash. Popped the fuse. New turn signal switch should cure it, but keep an eye on it. For whatever reason most the relays run thru that fuse.

Back to work. Super In Law has been off 5 days and is hot to trot ...........

He jumped right back on the left head light bucket and pivot.
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On the way home we discussed building a jig for rebuilding and aligning the fenders,hood and headlight buckets. Something along the lines of the door and windshield frames that Porsche and body shops used to have. Maybe pull the skin off a front hood and use the support bracing for a start ..................

I jumped back on the bondo patch in the wheelhouse. The patch welded in fairly easy. The portion right to the front of it. Not so much .............
Got tired of welding and grinding. Cut out the bad spot.
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Bondo patch from the outside.
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Inside with crappy metal removed.
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Found some more holes that need patching ...................
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While I was waiting for my turn with the welder. I went to work on the oil can dent on the right quarter panel.
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Went after it with the shrinking disk and soapy water.
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Got the oil can dent out. But we have some serious fender contour issues. Pulled the contour off my project car.
We'd been discussing changing out the left rear quarter panel because of some really poor patches. But it has a relatively good contour.

Here's the left.
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Here's the right.
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The panel has a long crease from the door handle pocket to the fender arch.
It will get pulled out after the fender gets reattached.

Cary I have a new fender if it's easier than dealing with the mess. As long as everything else is straight is should be easier to weld on a new one. I'm back tomorrow.

Mark, I don't plan on being at the shop tomorrow. I have an appointment to survey Doug's (raynekat) project. We'll be out there on Thursday and Friday.

The new patch went in without much fan fare.
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Then I repositioned the bench fixtures to allow me to weld the outer suspension mount to the new wheelhouse.
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Had to fiddle with the bottom of the mount just a bit to get it to slide into place.

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Added 5/26/16 7:30 PST

Leaving the top and bottom until I'm working standing up.

Then I moved on to installing the new jack point.

Put them together and positioned it on the long.
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Note : I did need to square up the tube. The cut wasn't quite square.

Then I used Mark's old metal and my fiberglass outer rocker to correctly locate it into position.
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Then I mark the inside of the positioned tube with a pencil. That way I can remove the cover without losing the correct position. Held in place with my monster magnets.
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Welded into place. Used between the 1/8 and 3/16 setting on my Millermatic 180. That tube is pretty thick.
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Prepped the inside of the cover with 2 coats of Rustoleum. Prepped the long with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing. Both had the rosette areas taped off for brush on weld thru primer.
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Letting the paint dry. Ready for welding in on Thursday am.
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Welds are a little too proud. Too much weld thru primer.
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Two coats of cold galvanizing compound. After it dried, two coats of Evercoat brush on seam sealer. Then another coat of cold galvanizing.
Tube was taped off again so it can be painted with body color paint.
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Then I went after reinstalling the door jam that was cut out for removing the jack pint.
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Here's where Super In Law left off yesterday.
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Cut and pasted the upper corners. Not real tough. A little thin in some places on the left.
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Then I brushed on seam sealer into channels. All sealed except for the left.
I gave it a good dose of OSPHO.
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While Super In Law was working on the channels I decided to prep the front hood. I will be using it tomorrow to analyze the hood verses head light bucket alignment. Both left to right and up and down.

Decided to go to NAPA and get studs They will replace the 8mm bolts for ease of installation, alignment and removal. Temporary
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Quite a bit of surface rust in numerous places. But nothing bubbling thru the paint on the top side.
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All of these were liberally sprayed down with OSPHO. Did find a pretty big pocket of rust under the front lip.
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I filled the front lip with OSPHO and tilted up for an overnight application.
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You might want to check the platform leg to the left of the hoist, front end of car, with your level. Might be an optical illusion but it looks way out of plumb.

We measured all 5 cars that are here and everyone of them has a different measurement in the arrowed location. Hmmmm. Hand Built.
So we'll carry on the hand built legacy and adjust the channels until we get the perfect fit.
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Waiting for Mark to get home and bring us a new trunk seal. But in the mean time we'll use the old one out of my project car.

Waiting on the battery tray attachment area until it's back on the lift and I can work standing up. The more I look, the iffier the metal looks. The last couple weeks I've been thinking of making the battery tray removable. Maybe blind or welded on nuts. But first things first. Lets put in some metal that can be worked with.
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I'll look at it this am. Hopefully that will get replaced with another 2 post this summer.

Now to see if all of our channel work will fit the hood.

Old rubber seal laid into place. All corners are now nice and tight.
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But we ran into trouble with the front trunk release cable. One of the allen screws was all rounded out. Dandy .........
Once we took off the hinge we could insert the allen driver and seat it with a couple taps with the hammer. Magic ....
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We found a big kink in the cable which added to the troubles.
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Then we had to hunt for a front trunk latch. Car came to us without a latch. We had to go thru everything twice, but we finally found the one from my project car.
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Final result .............
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It still needs a 1.5mm clockwise rotation. I may or may not be involved in the final Assembly after paint. But I needed to be sure everything fit and lined up perfectly.
After looking over all the well restored cars at WCR I know that the front hood and eye lids need to be dead on.

Looks like I need to get you a cable and guide tube.

Spent the morning doing some housekeeping and tool sorting. Starting to assemble, purchase and fill a new toolbox for my new job.

Seam sealed the front trunk channel and head light buckets for a second time.

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Then set about lifting the car off the frame bench. It got a little complex do to the need to work on the engine compartment firewall, right suspension ear and the back half of the floor.

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Then spent some research time figuring out my plan of attack.
It does look like we'll need to come up with a good right T4 motor mount.
We should be be able to get one from Doug.

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I will have a left and right pair of those available.....

After lunch I finish the welds on the outer console. Sprayed it down with Cold Galvanizing. Then worked on the nicks and cuts on the inner console left from cutting off the tie ins.
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Super In Law starts on the fabricating the tie in plates. This time I dug out the suspension point cuts that I bought last year. This will aid him with reworking our patterns.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=247894&hl=
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Puts it into the vise for ease of pattern measurements.
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Once we perfect the patterns we'll make them available.

I'd love a pattern!!!

I could definitely use that as well, Cary. Thanks for any and all help!

He took the day off to attend a funeral. He'll be back at it tomorrow.

Picked up some more work when I was making a deal on a new Snap On tool box. One of the mid seventies vehicles that just might be rustier than ours.
Toyota Land Cruiser. Simple. Just a cut out and patch. So he say's. LOL.

Keep melt'n metal Cary. Looking good.

Reading through... The tow eye hook should be M9x1.5 not M10. It wasn't clear if you were making those up for sale but, a stock tow eye is M9. It shocked me when I found that out last week. I thought it was M10 as well.

Decided I'd install the left front trunk bumper bracket to start the day. Filled in the larger spot welder cutter holes first.
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Then got back to tidying up the nicks and cuts on the inner console.
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Then I brought out the spot blaster to tidy up the console and the wheelhouse.
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Drew out the patch cut.
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Long is ready for Eastwood HD Rustproofing.
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Let's finish yesterday. Fell asleep after Timbers game

Pulled the wiring harness thru the firewall. A couple shots of removing the rear trunk opening motor.
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For reference in the future, the motor wire ends are under the orange tape.

Rats nest .............. but its now laying in the right front floor pan.
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Onto to the engine bay firewall removal surgery.
Starts with removal of the brake bias valve mounting plate. It will get transferred to the new firewall. Looks like once again the 75 is different than the earlier cars. Photo #1 is Marks car. #2 is the 73 parts car.
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I started with the hillbillied corner (right side). I had serious concerns about getting the heater tube out of the old firewall without damage. But patience was my friend and she came out good as new.

Forgot the shot of half the firewall gone. I'll add that tonight with an edit.
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I deleted a shot of how the factory welded in the heater tube. I needs to be here for those that haven't been here before. I'll shoot a shot of the other side and elaborate tonight.
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A little more housekeeping then a bath of OSPHO. Then I'll apply the HD rust proofing to the inside of the long. That side should be about ready to go back together. I'll have Super In Law start with the hell hole cover plate this am.

Once again lots of work with the 13" air belt sander.

Mark stopped by to bring me a couple things. But I took him into the other shop where Super In Law was working. Showed him the work on making the tie together plates.
Once we get one created and fitting perfectly he'll took at having them produced.

I'll still have the patterns for those that want to try there hand at blacksmithing. LOL.

Heater tube shot. Basically under the slathering of seam sealer are two acetylene tack welds. Not always in the same place. Probably the difference between a left or right and assembler.
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Removal: Cut the weld down with a 3' disk on a mandrel. Them pull off the surrounding tin.

Another future info shot: Jumper wire on the seat belt lock out. Had to remove it to pull the harness thru the center tube.
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I was going to start a new post of Super In Law building the tie in plates. But I think I'll start a new thread this weekend. Easier for searching in the future. And with the advent of Mark's perhaps producing them in the future it would be better served.

Teaser shot : Beginning cut out.
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Thursday's a short day. Going to pick up my new tool box.

Here's were I left off.
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Cut them down to size so I could turn them as I torch them out.
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All done.
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Mark stopped by and we fitted in the new front trunk seal. A beautiful thing.
Then we decided that we'll probably replace a major portion of both rear quarter panels. One, to correct previous damage. Two, to look at the rust on the inner sail panel support.
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I would call this long term ownership investment.
This is where I'll do a plug for 914 Rubber. I think everyone should install his fender liners. Just the way that the sail panel support is exposed inside the fender gives way to future issues.

During Mark's visit we decided we'll replace the left inner firewall too. Bottom edge is pretty rotten. Another one of the time vs. dollars decisions. So away I went cutting out the firewall.

Started with unhooking the left heater tube. Start by cutting and removed the e-brake tubes from the engine side. But first one must get rid of the seam sealer.

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Then away I went. Not too many pictures. Just assholes and elbows.

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Carnage at the end of the day.

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I cut out the center section to allow me better access to the spot welds. Angle of the drill. If not perfectly square you snap off the teeth. $7-$9 , cha ching. To speed things up I cut out the left inner firewall right with it.

I am going to like removing the inner firewall to tunnel welds from the inside much better. Pretty messy from the outside. From the outside you have the cutter on the portion that you keep. Big holes. Preferred method is cutter portion on the portion that is going into the recycling can.

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Friday 6.3.16

Start with freeing up the left heater tube.
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Looks about par for the course. Cup brush, OSPHO then cold galvanizing at a later date.

Then on to the tedious task of removing the top flange of the firewall. Left side factory spot welds. Right side hillbilly seam welded.

Left side I cut around the corner that contains the engine lid cable. Did one torch out yesterday without goggles, Bad Boy. Letting my eyes rest.
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I did all today's work without a spot cutter. Getting tired of the damage it does to the portion that gets reused. Using the HF/Steck version of the Dynabrade system.
Basically using the end of the 13" belt sander I grind down the spot weld and pop it off with either the Steck spot weld splitter (2 versions in the picture) or wood chisel. AKA, a new twist on Rick's method.
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No hole. No teeth marks.
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Basically I cut it out in 2 to 3 inch sections. Made a starter cut with the cut off wheel. Then sawed up to the top making sure I went all the way thru the flange. Most came off with a couple bends back back and forth. A couple had to be ground down.
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Now on to the right side. It had been seam welded do to repairing rust of created by a soggy engine sound deadening pad. Not much you can do. The firewall has a hole. And usually theres damage to the rear engine shelf. We'll need to put the rear shelf on Pete's at RD list.

Here's what it should look like after scraping off the seam sealer.
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Now here's what I need to get thru.
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Could do the usual DAPO rant. But it is, what it is. My only wish would be that one wouldn't go quite so overboard. Some day it might need to come apart again.

Not a whole lot of detail. Once again, 2 to 3 inch sections. Eyeballed it and it cut out with the die grinder on the mandrel. Have to be careful of the slope. Only had one nick in engine shelf. Right where it transitions back to horizontal.
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Hi Cary,

The work looks good on this. If you plan on using the RD firewall you'll need a few parts off the old firewall so hang on to it until you install the new one. My brother installed one on his car and it was a pretty easy install once we got it all setup.
The hardest part we found was making sure the lower half of the firewall measurements where dead on. Keep up the great work.

One more note... if you have a spot welder use it to mate the upper to lower sections. I found that plug welding it in was ok but the spot welder would be a cleaner install. We bought a spot welder after the fact but I'll go back to hit a few spots.