First I should say thank you for the compliments ...................

Feels like I'm about to be reeled in. LOL.
Yes on the fuel lines. Did a set on my 911. A set on both the 914's. Look's like I'll be doing a set on Mark's car.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2100898
Starts page #124

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2096850

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...mp;hl=fuel+tank

Are you smelling fuel ? Is any hitting the ground ?

Thanks for the links. I'll read up more once i'm done running around this morning. And yes, i smell fuel and it's hitting the ground. Looks like where the lines come out of the tunnel and go up into the engine bay is a significant leak (plastic to rubber area)....not good.
I think i'll pull the tank today and see what condition its in. Not sure if any shops local to me that clean/pressure test but I haven't searched...

Good Luck. I couldn't find anyone on the West side.

Started the day installing the door braces.
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I found another piece that will probably need to changed. Motor Mount.
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I think I have 2 or 3 in my stash. Plus the parts car has a couple good ones on it.

In order to give the firewall a good examination I need to remove the fuel lines and cables. So out came the fuel tank.
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This is the scariest splice I've ever seen. This was inside the cockpit. This is why it had the hillbilly tared in mess.
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After everything is cleared out of the way.
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Aftermath ................
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Speedometer cable looks good. Clutch cable looks good. Accelerator cable, not so much. Bowden tube separated.
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Here's Super In Law's work on the right engine shelf. He's created a new flange for the molding channel to be welded to.
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After lunch we went to Mike's (warpig) house to cut the rear panel out of his parts car.
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Tomorrow is Annual AX Tech at Speedsports.
Sunday is instructor at Tire Rack Street Survival

Is Mark going to stick with the late bumpers? If so, I might be in the market for the tow-hook parts that you will be removing.

Fantastic work, BTW! Wish I had a Super In-Law!

Mark's staying with the 75-76 bumpers. So we should be able to accommodate your request. If not this car, there should be one on my parts car.
The took hook receiver only ? Or do you need the braces too ?

I cede my position in line. Not sure when I'll have the funds and/or time to really dig into my project. Got a battle royal with my ex investment company planned for this summer.
I'll definitely be dropping in occasionally to see what Cary's up to no doubt.

Ok. Tow hook is not meant to be removed and replaced. The tube had to be cut to get the tow hook off the pre 75 rear panel. You can't get the cutting wheel down into the locations were they welded in the tube.
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If you can come up with a tube with 10mm threads you could put the two halves to good use. I can refurbish the two halves if your still interested. Fill in spot cutter holes. bead blast and prime.

Now's it time to create a 75-76 rear panel from a pre 74 rear panel.
First ........... remove the tow hook. Not an easy task when trying not to damage the sheet metal underneath.
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See post above for removed pieces

Next remove the spot welded flange of the rear trunk floor pan. Probably 50 spot welds.
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Next peel back the flange of the qtr. panel where it ties to the rear panel. Delicate work.
Used the Rick's method. Ground it down with die grinder them peeled it back with the small wood chisel.
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Tow hook removed (yellow) and qtr. panel (blue) that came with the cut out removed.
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Braces will still need to be removed.
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And these braces will need to be transferred from the old rear panel.
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Super In Law finished up the engine shelf.
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WOW Cary,
I was not around for a few days and you really kept the project moving. Saw Peter at Design Restoration this weekend and we should have some metal on the way tomorrow. I just need to drop them another call tomorrow.

If Ken needs anything we are not using he can have it. Just let me know and I'll get it out next week for him.

Looks like I'm in the market for some ss fuel lines now too. I did start the rubber for the firewall on these.

Start the day with a break in the rain so I make an attempt to bead blast the rear panel.
Only got the outside completed before the rain came and stayed all day.
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Get my six shooters ready for spot weld drilling ..............
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Off comes the braces.
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Then I cut the larger braces off the old 75-76 rear panel.
They have to be cut out because you can't get a pry tool into the area called out with the yellow arrow.
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Now you can get at all the flanges when it's in the vice.
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Now all prepped with rosette holes and ready for installation. But it will get a spray down with OSPHO and dry over night.
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Now on to filling the holes on the early rear panel we're converting to a 75-76 rear panel.
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Dog bone and brace holes filled and ground down.
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After bead blasting I find that this rear panel has had a rear PORSCHE refelector at one time. It had quite a bit of filler.
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Early bumper hanger has to be removed.
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On to filling the left side. Dog bone, brace and toe hook.
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I'm not a big fan of the rear lenst due to the issues with holes as you can see here.

One of the reasons it looked like this

Work continues on the rear panel. Cut up the old to use as patterns for the 75-76 brace hole and rosette holes. They'll be saved for future use. Continued working on the left side of the rear panel. A little tougher work with all those extra holes. I still might cut it out and put in a patch. The metal gets kind of goofy with all those different welds.
This is no charge research time.
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Used the larger hole cutter in the Rotacut kit to make the smaller hole.
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More on Mark's comment. I'm going to fill that cavity with OSPHO and let it do it's thing.
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Nothing new till Monday night. A couple job interviews today. Monthly Pelican Burgers and Beer at the Taproom tonight starting around 4:30. Autocross prep and 2 day auto cross this weekend. Weather forecast Saturday 90% chance of rain, Sunday 100%.
Might be time for me to get TTOD. LOL.

Started the day with more liquid sunshine.
So I needed to set up the pop up to shoot some more glass beads. I still needed to get the back side blasted.
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Then I decided to cut out the left side holes I filled. Too many holes, waste of time. It would have taken to much All Metal to get smoothed out.
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Sorry, a little blurry.

Front side and back side.
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The smoky spot is me hitting seam sealer.
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Tomorrows cut out ..............
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Mark stopped by to drop off the RD order. Then we started to jabber ......
Then it was time to head home for the Trailblazer game. 5pm start.

The RD stuff ...............
I love new metal ....................
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I'll add in a left over door sill left over from the long I bought from Perry. And a battery tray support that I have that I over ordered.

Looks like we'll need an e-brake pivot too. I'll look at the one on my parts car tomorrow. But I have my doubts its any better than one I already have.

Finally finished up creating the 75-76 rear panel this morning. I'll finish up the final hammer and dolly work after its attached.
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Filled in the old PORSCHE reflector holes.
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Now in lies the $1,000,000 question. How does one get that bitch in without cutting off the flanges? Hmmmm.
With the quarter panels firmly welded in there isn't any slack to slide the rear panel flanges into the quarter panel sandwich.
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Now that I have some new replacement panels we'll start with cutting out the remainder of the trunk.
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New part laid in for tracing it out.
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The replacement piece only goes a portion of the way up the rounded support portion.
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It is a pretty tight cut up against the trunk side panel. So I always keep a few stubby discs for just this occasion.
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Whoa-law ................. Presently surprised that there was little to no rust inside the transmission support. Just a smidgen of surface rust on the right side.
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Not feeling the love on the 75-76 modification to the floor pan, looks to be pretty different. Won't really won't know until it lines up with the rear panel. The sides and the bumper mount pans look Ok. But will the spot weld holes line up?
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All cleaned out and ready for it's overnight application of OSPHO. The inside will get an application of POR15. I have 4 cans that I haven't been using, but this is great spot for it.
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I wish the replacement panel was just a bit longer so I could have replaced this too.
I'll see if I can do some grinding and wire cup work make it look more presentable and last another 40 years.
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Rear Taillight Panel Install
Ready to go .............
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So we start with trimming both the qtr. panels and the refurbished taillight panel. I've kind of been dreading this. The bottom and the middle are easy. The top channel is pretty small and thin. I've determined that I'll split the double layer inside the trunk channel for my welding points. Top layer is the qtr. panel. Bottom is the tub.
Cut#1 is removing the tail left on the taillight panel
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Cut#2 - Removing the channel flange
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Next task is To Get The Lead Out ............
Super In Law handles it .......... Old School torch it and pull it out with a wire brush.
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This what you see under the pretty lead finish. I'm thinking I'll get the new fake lead kit from Eastwood and try to replicate it. Leaving it would create a low spot for water to collect under the seal.
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Then I went about cleaning (the best I could) the insides of the panel sandwich with the air saw. Pulled out lots of seam sealer. I didn't get it all, had some come thru on my welding and contaminant the weld (pin holes).
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With both qtr. panels trimmed up I could now lay the taillight panel into it's new home and take measurements for the cut out of the channel. Prior to the test fit I had cut the channel portion in half with the cut off wheel.
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The pencil line is were the factory spliced them together under the lead. So they would have torch welded in the diagonal cut, then spot welded in the support corner. If they had been a little more precise with the spot welder, removing the support corner would have been a better route. But because these were hand built cars, they on occasion lay one spot weld on top of another. Which makes a big frikking ass mess trying to drill out the spot welds. Leaving you with just about nothing when your done.

Here's a couple shots of the channel cut out. Just lightly make the cut on the scribed line. Then peel if back with the wood chisel or small screw driver.
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Once again being of the IE mind set. I have multiple die grinders all with different size wheels. So I can jump to different sizes as I'm cutting up against different angles.

Ok, now back to documenting Wednesday's work.
Now we move to positioning the rear panel .............
1st., I opt to spread open the middle channel on the left side. No particular reason.
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After a test fit I decide I'll need to trim a bit off the right side.
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I proceed to slide the left side in as much as I could.
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I did need to trim a bit of the excess off the tub flange under the trunk seal channel. This allowed me additional movement to the left.
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There she is. A little persuasion with a wood block against the latch support and she slid into place.
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Here's a shot of the right side channel. Looks like I cut on the wrong side of the line.
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All Clecoed in and ready to start welding.
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Wow, that is some really nice work.

Thank You ................

Now its time to fire up the electric glue gun ................

Right and Left side trunk channel tack in welds.
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We did have to fire up the torch to remove that lead still on the tail light panel.

Blip, blip, blip ..........
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Trunk channels all ground down and ready for leading .........
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Here's a shot of one of the welds that has a little contamination from the seam sealer.
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I'll come back and add a beauty shot. All finished ................

While welding I find another problem. The right side tail light frame is bent.
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Left side ..............
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After a little Tool Whore adjustment ............
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Now on to fitting the rear trunk panel. Looks like using the RD PP335 in a 75-76 will take some extensive fitting. I think that's how Adam from RD describes it.

First observation. With the impact bumper supports in play, the new trunk panel will be located quite a bit higher than either the pre 74 or the 75-76 position.
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I'll needed to trim around the latch support and create a new flange.
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Shot from above.

Back flange needs a little fitting.
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This is what I would call extensive. The question is can I fold down the flanges to fill the void. Or will I need create a couple of new corners.
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Before I head out the door I POR15 the transmission mount and impact bumper supports. As not to waste the POR15 I use the remaining POR15 to coat the inside of a few other pieces.
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As I was doing my thing, Super In Law broke down Mark's drive train.
It will get steam cleaned and new fuel and vacuum lines before it is mounted back into the car.
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Mark I'll need a new pair of engine mounts. One was cooked, long stud spun inside the rubber mount. Other is looks original too.

I'll start another thread to ask some questions about the 75-76 HE's.

PM Sent

Looking good Cary.

That rear end repair you are doing on Mark's car is exactly what my car will be needing one day as well.

Well done.
Appears like a lot of painstaking work....

Thanks Cary,
I really appreciate your attention to detail, and what other "shop" would be posting progressive pictures as the work is done.
Just build the shopping list and I'll begetting you more stuff.
Mark

Awesome job, Cary. I love seeing the progress in detail. I'm really hoping I don't have to tear into my trunk on my project car (or my DD for that matter) like you're doing, but if I do this helps a lot.

Cary, Great job , I think the rear trunk floor is gonna be an aesthetic regret...
check the photo of the OG floor it has a transition down to the proper trunk floor height... If you make a cut front to back ( like you previously did ) and push down the floor then fab some filler pieces it will be like it should for a BUB 914... Carry On

BTDT on the R. trunk floor repair for the late BUB equipped car.
After looking at how to alter a new repop panel intended for the early chassis
determined it was PITA & punted. Found a good R. clip to scab instead.
As the cars continue to go up in popularity (& value) perhaps the R trunk pan for the late car is another item Pete (RD) can consider reproducing

Hmmmmm ................
I'll pull up the pad in my 73 and take a look.

Cary,your 73 should look like the RD panel..75-76 BUB 914's trunk panel is unique..
here is somepics ofa 76 trunk and the transition I mentioned
drivers side

Wow....that IS different.

Nice work Cary.

You guys are making more work for me ... LOL
It has to be modified. You'd have to cut around and flange the big bumper braces too.
Today was supposed to be shop clean up and resupply day.
But nooooooo I dug out the drop down pieces from the scrap
barrel and I'm making up some sketchs. Once I locate the front and
back points. It should be pretty simple.

You wouldn't Mark to send you a leaky rubber now would you ??

Here's the shot I forgot last night.
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Modifying RD PP335 to replicate the 75-76 rear trunk :

After this mornings input we have a plan to replicate the 75-76 trunk the best we can. Thanks, sixnotfour.
I don't think it will be that tough.

First issue is locating and welding in the 75-76 tail light panel braces. I forgot about them until I was scrolling thru my picture file this am. They were in the back of one of the trays on my parts rack.
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Now for creating the drop down portion of the trunk. I decided to clean up the 75-76 portions that I cut out during the cut out of the old trunk. I decided that anything I keep for patterns and fitting will be painted my signature Ford blue.
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#1. I'll make a cut at the base of the rib. Not exactly the right location compared to the samples. But it will look real sanitary. Down the black line, plus thru the flange.
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After making both these cuts I'll be able to bend the panel down into the correct location. There's about 100 spot welds to use as for alignment.

#2. Once I have the panel in position I think I'll end up with the area in the triangle to cut out. This piece will be fabricated to replicate the 75-76 sloped area.
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Looking at sixnotfour's picture I may run the other long line right against the hole plug area.

Sorry - haven't been on in a while. I would probably need the braces as well to make it a functional tow-hook. I back-dated my '75. Could use the middle bumper brace as well if it is still intact. Thanks!


Yes, I would be interested in having them refurbished, and I would gladly pay you to do so. However, I am in absolutely no hurry for these parts, and I would not want to take you off task. So, whenever you get around to it is fine. If you really don't think it is worth the effort, that is fine as well.


Thanks, Mark!

I think the little centering support is at the bottom of the scrap can. But I'll look in one spot that I might have set it aside. I don't throw too much away.

I'll do some digging into finding a tube with 10mm threads. Without the tube we can't create you the tow hook.

Great work Cary!

Thanks ..............

Ken looks like we can create you a tow hook by using the back (with tube
attached) from my parts car. And the front side from Mark's new tail light panel.
I used the plasma cutter to cut it out of the parts car.

It's your lucky day ............ the hanger tab was still under the 75-76 bumper that was hanging on the parts car.

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