Yeah I am sure it is a GPS unit. I don't know it has been sitting with no power for so long. I 'll look into it more this week. I took it out today for a couple hours of driving. No great roads as it was a service call for work. So most was on the freeways. Still it ran great I had no real issues. My throttle hangs up just a bit. I'm pretty sure that is just tied to my accelerator cable. I still need to order a custom one this week. I also need to build up a better base for my shifter. Sitting a bit to low for me. Plus I moved my ECU into the cab. I don't have much extra wiring so it is kinda stuck dead center where the backpad would be. I just carpeted my firewall so no big deal. Just my old armrest setup won't work

As far as gearing on the tranny. It is definitely different as my NA 2.5 had a forester tranny with the 4.44 gears. Which was really perfect gearing as the power really suited the setup. Was great at the autoX. This gearing is different & the power really in a different spot. Turbo really starts spooling around 4k rpm. Not as much low end grunt as my previous setup. I would be a bit quicker off the line with my NA setup. Although I would catch up quick with my turbo. LOL! I hit my rev limiter about 55 in second gear & 75 in 3rd.

That third is too short IMHO. 20mph in a gear? Way to short.

What gearbox do you have available and what ratios do you have??

You have 3k worth of powerband so you'll want to have some headroom above and below it for shifting.

Link below is what I use for calculating my gears.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8kikaf08oij9ijx/A...atios.xlsx?dl=0

I would suggest a taller final drive if you can find it. Something that puts first about 35-40, second about 60-70, and third about 100-110.

I am guestimating on the 3rd gear. It probably is higher than 75. Trying to look at my phone on the seat next to me isn't the easiest thing. I need to get my speedometer working. LOL. I didn't actually hit my rev limiter in 3rd. Even second may be a bit higher. I'll have to get a passenger out with me to get some legit ones

I was digging through some old files looking for data and failed but I did find some ratio calculations I did when I was picking out my trans.

I ended up with a 09 WRX which has different 1st-3rd than the earler stuff.

3.9 3.166 1.882 1.296 0.972 0.738 - '08-up USDM WRX

3.9 Final drive
Click to view attachment

4.11 Final drive
Click to view attachment

This is likely what you have.

3.9 3.454 1.947 1.366 0.972 0.738 - '02-'05 USDM WRX 

That 3.9 final drive doesn't look to bad.

If you have a GPS speedo just call Speedhut and they should fix it for you. You send it in, they fix it, send it back to you. I had to send mine back for that as well. It barely registered.

But first...make sure the antenna is plugged in and it has a very clear line of sight. If it's behind a visor or something it may not register. I moved my antenna recently for a cleaner look and had to move it back on top of the dash so it would register reliably.

I have ridden with Scott and 1st is useless. It did motivate the rear end to make a weird spinning tire noise I never heard in a 914 with a 4 cylinder. But then he could induce that same noise at speed, going around corners and the like.

I wholeheartedly approve BTW, I like things that can spin tires, and leave 11s all day long.

I went with the tallest ratio I could get, not that it was really that much difference.

With my Nissan6 190hp/205tq I use 2-3 around town and H 5th is great on highway @90mph

The 3.5L 'upgrade' will be 300ish, like yours with more boost. The 914 box would work fine with the clutch I already have but I don't want breaking a trans to be always on my, mind so a 2011 WRX box swap is in the works. I'd actually bump 5th higher if it was cheaper, I've got plenty of TQ at 3k to do it.

At 1000lbs lighter I think you will be zipping thru gears more often to no real benefit vs the Subaru.

Put on a front spoiler I picked up a while ago. Thanks Don! This thing sits pretty dang low. I scraped going out my driveway & a few other spots as well. I do like the look of it though.

For gearing I was off Andrew. So 2nd I can probably hit 70 before my rev limiter. 3rd I am pushing 100. Still a bit slow telling as my phone GPS was lagging a bit. This will just take some getting used too. I am pretty lightweight in that I have never really run my motor up this high. I always shifted earlier as my old setup power band was really on the lower end. So I am really struggling running it up over 6k. My rev limiter is set at 7. Hoping to have a few decent days without rain so I can put some more miles on it

I'm smiling for you right now. Car looks amazing. Great job!

Love the car. The spoiler not so much - sorry. I'm glad you are back on the road and can start enjoying the car again.

Kevin, Loves that front spoiler...half a block and he managed to to tear it of ..REDRUM, doing a U-turn.... @rhodyguy

I'm a little split on it. I like the overall look & that if fits with the flares on each end. I don't like how low to the ground it goes. Time will tell if i will keep it or not

That's pretty good then, 2nd will be the autox gear and 3rd and second the canyon gear (you have enough power now you can baby the engine a bit and be up a gear on your powerband).



How bout some in car video? Let's hear that turbo!

Yeah I'll get some video soon. Would like to have my speedo working. I will wait on video until I get my final tune later this week. I can't wait to get that done. Just realizing how much I need to do getting my interior back together. I missing half the stuff I pulled out . I swear it is in my garage somewhere

Have you adjusted your linkage since this photo was taken?

I ask because this photo shows exactly the kind of mounting that I did with the ZeroDB linkage that was incorrect.

The little arm that mounts to the transmission output shaft should not be attached at the little hole that exists in the linkage. It needs to be mounted as close to the taper as possible, with the goal (and heres the important part) of the linkage being as squared up (i.e. 90-degree angles everywhere) as possible when the transmission is in neutral.

If the arm is mounted at the stock hole in the transmission output shaft, the angles are not 90, and the shift pattern at the shifter will feel not like an |-|-|, but much more like: |-\-/ because of the bad geometry.

On my racecar, the bad geo at the shifter resulted in 2 (!!!) mis-shifts at the track. I ultimately found the bad geometry, drilled a new hole in the output shaft, and sternly suggested to ZeroDB to send instructions with their kit.

Very best,
Mat

Video!

It's sunny & I've got a run I need to make to the coast. I'll try to get some video. I was out last night & went under a bridge. Happened to be accelerating & holy shit my car is loud. I did have the top off for the first time since the new motor. I definitely did not accomplish the sleeper setup with my car

The car looks great! I love the front spoiler.

Went back through my paperwork. Looks like my Speedometer is not a GPS unit. It was run off the VSS going by what Dean wrote. Is that on the transmission. I'm going to need to figure out how to wire that back up. I may have sent that off with my old setup. Would that just be a wire coming from the sensor to my speedometer? Is it as simple as that?

Jamie your old setup has a VSS on the transmission. Rt side of transmission. black one in center of photo. Has a plug on the end of a short pigtail. Unfortunately I am planning to use mine or it would be in the mail. Using one you will need to program the speedo to correlate to the VSS revolutions it sees at the tranny. Supposed to be straightforward. I think you can auto program at speed if you have a pace car to follow. Hope this helps. Congrats by the way.

Click to view attachment

Perfect. Thanks bud. Yeah I am sure my tranny has the sensor there with a pigtail. So I just need to wire from that to my speedo. Yeah I have a calibrate deal so as soon as I can get the signal there. I should be golden

Had a few minutes to work on the car today. Spent a few minutes cleaning up some wiring. Adjusted my shifter linkage a bit too. Still need to finish up my mount for my shifter. My temporary one sucks. Kicking around between building it from wood or metal.

Took it out for a quick drive today. It is so nice to be able to drive my car. A quick pic

Back at the Dyno tuesday. My boost controller is in & tomorrow we crank it up. I will have some new dyno #'s tomorrow. Been nice driving my car the last 2 weeks. Still the power hasn't been quite as good as I was expecting. That should change tomorrow. Don't get me wrong it is fast as it is. Just didn't quite get the head thrown back feel. It is nice & smooth but I can't wait to have the turbo cranked up. I am excited to see how it feels

I am absolutely cursed. Get it on the Dyno for it's pull & it's fine for a minute. Then start making a noise. It's got a good knock now & guy says it's a bearing. . So my options are get a used JDM to replace it or upgrade. Used Jdm low mileage will run me $2500 installed. Used so no warranty. Or I can upgrade to an 2.5 IAG block with all forged stuff. This would get an 50 in torque & 10-15 hp. This would also be warrantied & I wouldn't have to wonder about it being used. Of course it's another 5k

OUCH! That hurts.

So sorry to hear the lastest.

Oh so close....

Wishing you the best Jaime.

Oscar

Really?


Damn.....



Could you make use of a forged bottom end? I mean what are your limit differences?


I say go JDM.... A new motor could have it's own issues. Not to mention time.

Jamie,

So sorry to hear that. I have a spare EJ 20 with 60,000 on it. Id' throw it your way for 800.00 bucks. (you can come down to cali and truck it back up).. or we could figure out how to ship it (I have no clue) but from all I can tell, it is a solid motor. Same as what is in my car. I think you are running a 2.5 but mine at 220 HP is blazing fast. Trans and all your gear should bolt right up to it.

Anyway, it is an option to save you some money. I bought it as a spare from a running car as a "just in case" or "future build" motor. It is not a JDM but is a USDM. It is a longblock but I have the intake for it.

Totally up to you.

Rob

I appreciate it Rob but think I'll stick with the JDM. Only $1200 for it & is around 30k on the motor. I at least get a 30 day warranty with it. If it can make it through a dyno session I should be good to go.

While this does suck & i appreciate the sympathy.. I'm done feeling sorry for myself about it. I am pissed but getting to drive my car again. I'd do damn near anything to have it back driving again. So I just ordered the JDM & should have it in 2 weeks. I'm not posting about a damn dyno again until it's over though. Must be jinxing myself

Andrew yeah the forged stuff with the 2.5 would be an upgrade. They are as close to bulletproof as they get with Subaru. I could push my Redline up to 8k instead of my current 7k. Not that it matters since I am not going that route.

Hate to hear anyone having engine trouble
Especially a beast like this 914 is

But i recently have been made aware that
Subarus have some serious reliablity issues.
Was told that head gaskets and ring lands
Will require engine out at very least every 100k
Miles

Is this true. ?
And also that they get extremly poor gas mileage ?

And i would assume pushing the boost up
Doesn't help prolong things either

Have you look at how much a 996 engine cost$
? While your at the crossroads

I am entirely to far down this rabbit hole to scrap it all for another conversion. They are head gasket prone sure but not that often. New gaskets will go another 100k no problem. Hell 100k on my motor would last me 10-15 years easy. I've had this car like 9 years & am pushing maybe 30k. Of course I've only driven it about half that time. This is my weekend nice weather cruiser. In Oregon that translates to about 8 months out of the year decent driving weather. If it wasn't for the long trips for the 914 events each year. I wouldn't put all that many miles with my weekend drives.

Subaru’s actually have one of the highest reliability ratings. The head gasket issues were resolved in the year 2000 and mainly involved the 2.5 DOHC engines. My EG33 has the original head gaskets from 1995. It’s true that some don’t get great mileage but that’s not due to the engine, but the fact that the cars are relatively heavy. All of them are awd too. In a small, light car the mileage is much better. Kent gets 35 mpg with his 6 on the highway.

Sorry to hear about the bearing issue Jamie. That sucks. Keep plugging away at it.

@JRust Do NOT buy a used JDM engine, must of them are 100k miles or more. The 30-50k or "low mileage" is complete BS and just a sales pitch.

You can toss a 2.5 crank and forged pistons in your 2.0 block and have a motor that will be much happier than a 2.5. And it will save you a bunch of money.

Redline is not dependant on bottom end, you'll need quality valve train to go to 8k without possibility of damage.

There's no reliability issues with Subarus except the EJ255/EJ257 (turbo 2.5L) and the new design FA/FB motors.

The turbo 2.5's have a piston design issue (Subaru lost a class action over it) but adding forged pistons only prolongs failure as the real issue is in the bore size vs rod angles.

The head gaskets don't fail because of design.

The N/A engines leak externally due to the crap quality of most US oils. They don't have the issue in Japan or Europe where oil quality is mandatory by law.

The turbo engines only lose gaskets when pushed beyond it's mechanical abilities by wannabe tuners (ie detonation) and people who think it's a race car but don't want to build a race engine.

And don't get me started on the closed deck BS

FA/FB- well that's a story for another class action lawsuit

If you need help with your engine decision pm and I'd be happy to help

Bummer Jaime. We all share your ups and downs. Keep the core engine to rebuild.
I haven't dealt with Subaru's in many years, but they were completely reliable in the 80's and 90's. All I ever seemed to do was clutches.

I think you've sacrificed enough to the automotive gods. They have to let you succeed now!

so sorry to hear this
Hang in there.
you will beat it!!!!

all the best

Jaime brother,

Hang in there. Its going to be a super nice 914 after you get it worked out. You are almost there.

I hope good luck comes your way from the Porsche VW gods.

Bob B

have heard horror stories about many JDM motors imported to my country,most in the know don't touch them or buy them @ core value,engine shops avoid them now as there have been so many issues.
These motors are often poorly maintained before being dismantled from cars and not sealed up or stored well after removal,a mate bought a motor and it had rain water in it,the importers don't really care as they buy them for basically scrap value and find any way to escape the warranty.
Buyer beware in this case ,don't ask me how I know .

I guess their are virtually no other flat watercooled engines. Out their

So there isnt really anyway to compare reliability
Especially since jdm engines are really milage unknown
But most car engines (inline/4)will require less work and be way cheaper on maintence then subaru

Okay you guys are freaking me out on the JDM. I'll hold off for now & do some research. Keep your info coming

Stock parts should be pretty cheap. I'd rebuild and refresh, then you would have a practically new motor.

JDMs are definitely closer to 100k than 30k or even the 60k they used to advertise.
I bought a JDM Nissan motor once, turbo didn't spin and the intake was full of a white sandy powder. Sent it back.

I've had a few JDM motors over the years. One went straight in and was absolutely flogged for 50K miles without any issue. Another got a new water pump, oil pump, and timing belt - that one has about 40K miles and is still going strong. Another, I pulled the heads to take a peak - it definitely had more than the 35K miles on the paperwork, but it was less than 500 bucks to rebuild with NOS parts from NASIOC.

Given the luck you've had, I'd probably rebuild or get new shortblock. A bad bearing doesn't mean the motor is junk. You can get through a rebuild with OEM parts for about the same cost or less than a "slightly used" JDM motor. Lots of options.

Heck - tear it down, get it honed, get the parts, and bring it to Boise. I'd help you rebuild it.

That sucks. No doubt.

I had 2X JDM motors in my conversion. The first spun 4 bearings in the bottom end. teardown showed a dented oil pan from shipping that closed up the oil pickup tube gap as well as a slight crack in the oil pickup tube (very common problem).

The second engine was modified with the Outfront Motorsports oil pickup and I made sure to straighten and reinforce the bottom of the oil pan. Ran great. No issues with 22psi boost on twin turbos.

If you go the used engine route check the oil pan. Makes sure it was not damaged (even slightly) when bouncing on a pallet during shipping. Happens a lot.

After licking my wounds for a while. I have decided to go the JDM route. MY shop will check it out good & warranty it for 90 days. So I feel okay about it. This will be my cheapest route to get my car back on the road again. So not much of an update I suppose. Just called the shop to order the motor. Should take a week to get it.Then another few days to swap it

Way to go Jamie. Get back on that damn Horse. Did they give you an estimated time of completion? Keep that old engine, place it on a stand then tear it down when you have the time. It will be worth your time to know your engine. Your own personal Cheerleader, Kent.

I am on my 2nd JDM EJ motor.

I got a few good track days out of the first, then spun the bearings. I rebuilt it, and then got less than 1 full day out of it and spun the bearings again. When I opened it I found scored pistons and cylinders, as well as another spun bearing. The tell-tale sign for the bearing failure for me was a change in exhaust note and a slightly noticeable reduction in power. The next time I hear the exhaust note change (it becomes more boomy, bass filled, and louder) I'll trust my instincts and shut the car off.

Additionally, my data logs from the day do not show starvation of any kind, but rather a progressive lab-by-lab lowering of the oil pressures.

The new motor going into the car now is also a used one, but I've added a new larger oil pump (11mm vs 10mm) and I'll be using a large external oil cooler. I've also got an oil block-off plate between the pan and the block to prevent g-force related starvation. Its unclear to me why the first two motors did not last, as they were bone stock, not hyped or with crazy tunings. All I can guess is that hot thin oil and a too-small (or badly functioning) pump was the cause.

In my humble, most google-educated, opinion, I suggest you look into all causes and conditions surrounding the oil delivery to your new motor. A slightly larger pump and proper cooling may just save you from another expense.

Solid choice. It’ll get you back on the road the fastest as well. Keep the other motor and start collecting parts for it bit by bit.

Yeah I plan to pull it apart. I'd like to see what really happened. Was shut off quickly so it may not have major damage. I'll work on rebuilding it in my spare time. I'll have it ready if my JDM takes a dump. I also have my other 914 I'll be picking up to restore. So getting mine out of the garage to move it in will be good. I can get the drive train pulled & down to the painter in week it's gone. Then I will be needing to get myself a lift so I can fit them both.

I also came damn close to buying a 08 Cayman over thanksgiving while I was in SLC. I did drive it & really liked it. Really been considering picking up a Boxster. I definitely liked the Cayman better but Boxsters are so damn cheap.

Jamie remember when you lusted after the suby914.. Orig. Builder getting an award RRC2012
2012, obviously you had a desire...drive on...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=193828

Progress is always worth updating us on, no need to apologize for being pragmatic.