Corner the market nah. Hey what are you doing for an intercooler? Straight air? Air to Water? I know didly about intercoolers & need some education from the master

I am using a Type 13 water-air intercooler from FrozenBoost. It is supposedly good for up to 450CFM/350hp. Here is a link to the one I'm using. It has good reviews across the interwebs, and it is pretty inexpensive. In fact, I spent more on tubing, silicon connectors, clamps, a junkyard pump from an BMW E34, and 3/4" rubber hose than I did on the actual intercooler.

Oh that looks compact as well. I need to go look through your thread again. Where did you mount yours? Are you doing anything Different pump wise with this? Just routing the cool return from your radiator through it. Before it gets back to the motor it flows through the intercooler as well?

Definitely use a separate cooling system to cool the intake charge; the engine coolant runs too hot. I run a heat exchanger in front of the radiator and pump air-water coolant using a Bosch contactless pump. These are easiy junkyards finds in '90s BMW 5- and 7-series as a heater booster pump; the Ford factory-supercharged Mustang Cobras use the exact same pump for its air-water intercooler.

My intercooler is about twice that size and I mounted it just behind the driver. I use the Bosch pump as well but its probably overkill. For how cool it runs a simply $20 12v pump would be fine. The radiator is in the drivers rear fender, but could have easily been anywhere under the rear trunk. I have a fan connected to a temp controller but I dont think it has ever came on. IAT's stay between 40 and 45C at a max.

Hey Geoff what clutch are you running. Stage one says its good to 300. Stage 2 says like 360. I should be in the 230-250 range. Just curious if I need a stage one or 2. Hate to get the stage 1 & have slippage despite what they say it can handle.

Was looking at this setup Clutch kit
Most the kits have a lightened flywheel. Do you recommend an OEM over a lightened ?

lightened is fine your car weighs a lot less than say the Forrester it came out of.

I'm not the guy to ask, since I've got a sum total of about 5 miles on my 914 so far. My donor car's engine came with a Fidanza lightweight flywheel and high-performance clutch, and it has no problem idling, no gear chatter (maybe my exhaust is too loud?!?!), or taking off from a dead stop in my teener. As Stephen mentioned above, our cars are light so you don't need the mass of a heavy flywheel to drive it smoothly.

I run an F1 Racing stage 1 clutch and lightened Cro-Mo flywheel in my M3-swapped BMW 318ti. It has a little gear clatter when idling, especially with the A/C on. But I'll live with that because it revs SOOOO freely...

Sounds like the stage one should be fine then. I'll roll with that. Was surprised they were so reasonable on pricing. I'm going to go ahead & order it. Could use some misc bolts. Wonder if they make a kit with subaru hardware? I don't have the flywheel bolts. I am sure there will be plenty of odds & ends for nuts/bolts.

You'll probably be fine with that one, but consider what upgrades you may want to make in the future. If the price is still reasonable, there's no issue with being overly prepared...

When I upgrade it will be another complete drivetrain swap . I'm turning into Mike Bellis

I ordered that setup last night. It should be just fine but we will see. Will be pretty easy to swap to a heavier clutch if it slips. Now I need to find the thread for the size hose I need for my hydraulic clutch

AN-3

Haven't made much progress. Got some bug over the weekend so spent it pretty much sleeping & watching tv. I did get the locking spool, rear plate & tranny hangars on. Hopefully next weekend I'll feel better. Still need to get my old motor on a pallet & shipped.

Then I'm going to put my new setup on my hydraulic table. Put it up in my engine bay. Attach the tranny hangar's. Then measure things out with my motor. I've got some decisions to make. I either build another cradle. Do the firewall mount done by a few here. I have the small car mount on it. Then once it is in place. I am going to see about just making something close to the stock early motor mount bar. I've just got to see how everything lines up.

I'm waiting on my new clutch kit. Also the An3 lines for the clutch. I also need to pull my pedal cluster. Get the plate installed & hole drilled for the MC for clutch.

Okay a little progress. Took a me a bit but I got my old drivetrain shipped off to Rick. Bolted up my tranny to my new motor. Wanted to do a little test fitting tonight. With my tranny hangar's bolted to the tranny. I bolted the rear in place. My header is just hitting my battery mount which is lower on the firewall. I think it will still work there. Just may need to be unbolted & then put back on with my motor is in place. Probably the least of my worries at this point.

A few years ago when I was working on a subaru conversion before buying this one. I was using a 901 with an adapter plate to the motor I had. I had a small car mount on the suby motor with a tab welded on the front. It joined the mount in front & gave a nice flat surface. I was able to use an early stock 914 engine bar as well as the rubber motor mounts. I am looking to do something similar here. My small car mount sits pretty level with my headers. My shortened oil pan sits about an inch & a half below these headers. Using a stock engine bar it will sit level with my oil pan. Just need to add a piece to the small car mount that will let it mount on the engine bar. I'll post some pics when I've got it done. For anyone running the headers out back this would work even better.

Did a little more test fitting. With the tranny hangar's it sits a little low. It can go up another inch at the least & I think closer to 2. Compared to my previous cradle & tranny setup. Which definitely sat up higher. Where it sits now I wouldn't need the cutout for the starter & clutch fork. I would rather have it sitting up higher even if it means a small cutout in the truck. Of course I also have the cuts already so only makes sense to keep it that way. Things do line up nicely to use an early stock engine bar. With a little customized piece attaching to the front of the small car motor mounts.

Anyway thats all I have time for. Heading to Dallas for a week for work. Then a stop in Phoenix to golf & catch a spring training game or 2. Plus a bonus I get to meet Rich. He bought my original suby drivetrain. So we'll get to talk 914's & conversions for a bit next Friday morning. Couple pics of it up in place. I also put the intake back to stock. Was going to flip it but that won't work with me doing A/C. Won't be to big a deal on the intake. I'll just use a similar bend to what I had before. Instead of it going to an air filter it will got to my Intercooler. Just going to start with the stock air intercooler & see what kind of results I get. Most likely will end up with a different intercooler setup. For my initial install it will be fine.

Looks great. You should consider water to air for the inter-cooler (I know you are thinking that).

I'm curious why the A/C wont work with a flipped intake manifold?

I am considering water to air yes. On the A/C the problem really isn't the a/c itself but the alternator. With the intake flipped the alternator is in the way of the intake. The options would be to add a 1" spacer below the intake between the throttle bodies. With another inch height it would clear & be fine.

The other issue I have is with the turbo & the a/c. Which I do need to remedy as the turbo is right up against the a/c compressor. Which with my setup the oil lines go in right there. Easiest change there is a 1" spacer between the header & the turbo. That would move it up & clear it. Or if I could bend my header towards the firewall a little bit that would also fix the problem.

Flip the mount and assemble it correctly and it looks like you'll be golden.
Can you clock the turbo bearing assm to get the oil lines to clear everything?

What mount would you be referring too?

Looking good Jamie. You'll enjoy the AC. No reason to not have AC in the 21st Century with your set up.

Jamie, are you smoking the tires off the rims yet? Please tell me the reason you haven't posted since March is because you are to busy driving the wheels off that car.

I think you should triangulate those rear trani mounts, or weld in a bolt in bar that connects the two. I have a feeling that the trani is going to sway side to side like that. I originally had mine like that then added a brace as I could move it by hand some and knew that over time that would cause a stress fracture in the steel or transmission mount.


Love the progress BTW!

He's probably gnawing at the bits as we speak. I think Jamie's hands are currently bound with the purchase of a new home and all. Otherwise, I'd have added Jamie to my Slacker thread along with Stephen.

Well not a whole hell of a lot of progress. Bought a house. Now remodeling said house. = no time to work on my car. Nor money to boot. I did happen to get my cradle from Ian at Coldwater. I took it to Linex to Bedline it. Got it back & it looks great. I also ordered the cable shift system from Xero Decibel Motorsports.

Here is the order I hope to get to things.
1. Install my hydraulic clutch MC with it's bracket.
2. Make hydraulic line
3. Get my stage 2 clutch installed.
4. Mate the transmission back up to the motor.
5. Install drivetrain
6. Wire ECU
7. Take to muffler shop for Exhaust
8. Fire it up & hopefully smile from ear to ear

Only thing holding me back is my damn kitchen. Was to small & cramped. So I took out a wall & worthless pantry. Picked up some more kitchen cabinets for the expansion. In taking out sheetrock I found the stairs that sit behind my kitchen wall. There is a nice big area with nothing there. I have a nice 36x36x6 feet tall space. Then a large area below the stairs. So now I'm putting a Pantry in that corner with will be much bigger & more useful than the one I had originally. Plus still expanding my kitchen. Then all new wood flooring to replace some ugly carpet. All of which means I am busy after work every night & on the weekends. Plus has demolished my car fund . In the end my wife better be damn happy

Why is number 7 before number 8.

F number 7 until number 8 happens.

Hey Jamie you will get more starter clearance if you switch to a later model one. I just installed part # 23300AA560. Fits perfectly. The solenoid and stuff is positioned to the left instead of directly above the starter housing like the old one was. I can close up the hole I made for the old one now .

Leave it. It's nice to have access to that area. Easy access to the slave cylinder as well.

Yeah I have 2 used starters I picked up with both of my transmissions. I think one lays over more than the other. I'll test fit them both. If neither of them is I'll use your part # to get the right one. Appreciate you adding the part#

ditto - thanks for suggestion on later starter and its pn

my starter from 1990 legacy mt and it looks like my starter won't be a problem but i will have to probably cut trunk for clutch arm and clutch cable.

Okay I haven't done jack since I moved to our new home in June. This saturday I plan to install my MC for my hydraulic clutch. Just a little progress but I need to start somewhere. If I can get that done maybe I will feel inspired to do more. Need to unbolt my tranny & install my clutch too. So I am posting this so you can alll give me grief if it doesn't happen

I'll give you a pat on the back for jumping back in. Smart approach, too! Start on a "not to hard" and work your way back into it. There are enough items that you can bounce around. It happens quickly and you'll back into it soon. How is the fuel pump controlled with that turbo engine. Does your aftermarket ECU control the fuel pressure? If your engine requires the FP controller, I have an extra one somewhere. Good to see you jumping back in.

Okay now I know why I haven't done squat since I moved. My shop space dropped 2/3rds when I moved. While I got rid of a bunch of 914 crap I had built up I didn't have space for. I still have to much crap in my space. All the parts I have for my car are buried in totes from my move. I spent 10 minutes pulling my pedal cluster. I've spent the last hour scouring through totes to find my hydraulic bracket. Of which I know I have 2. I have 2 full setups for this conversion. 1 new Wildwood MC(found), 1 new Honda MC(not found), 2 new reservoirs (found). I can't find the MC conversion bracket's. I've got about 3 more lg totes to look through. They are just buried on a shelf 9ft off the ground & weren't light when I manhandled them up there. I got parts spread all over my workable space now. So looking like today will be spent trying to get my shop area more organized so I can find what I need. Then have space to work again after. ARGH! I really hate not having a shop separate from our garage. Everyone just fills the garage with whatever the hell they don't want (yeah thats mostly my wife). I can probably spend the entire day trying to organize it & not feel much better about it when I'm done. I still have to much stuff for to little space. I will always be fighting to make space to do anything.

About the only positive this morning is I found my set of Boxster brake Calipers. Along with a pair of the adapters to make them work. Although I can't remember if the adapters are for the front or rear. I think the front. Really was a waste of my money as I already have the 944 Brembo turbo calipers up front already. I don't think these are any larger. Probably should just sell these

Jamie, I can fix this situation for you. We trade cars. My running SIX for your roller. Straight across. Seriously though, I love your car and hope to see it on the road again soon! It is very hard for me to get motivated to work in my shop if I can't find anything or if I have to work around stuff that is being stored in the garage. I totally understand! But with that said, we are cheering for you, summer is coming so get your ass in the garage and get that beautiful car back on the road!

Jamie,
I was beginning to wonder if the project was stalled out.
I’m glad to see that you have started to make some progress again abit with what appears some frustration on your garage space and the stuff piled up in it.
Give me a call if you come across a task that requires a second person as I would be happy to take a short road trip up your way to help out.

Jim

Well after a whole lot of looking & organizing. My garage still looks like crap. I did manage to find 1 of my conversion plates for the MC. I had moved onto my motor. Removed me tranny. Just had it bolted up for test fitting. Still needed to install my Flywheel, clutch & pressure plate. So installed the flywheel & torqued the bolts to 52lbs. Installed the flywheel bearing. Went to install the clutch & pressure plate but I could not find bolts. Looked at the local parts stores with no luck. Ordered some from Subaru dealership. Supposed to be here Wednesday. Going to bolt it to my engine stand. I've got a small car mount on it I am not using. The side with the dipstick tube on it I've got to pull the oil pan to remove. Not a big deal I'll try to tackle it tonight. Taking a break for some dinner. Then need to get pick up some stuff to make Mike Moorman's rotella dip for the big game tomorrow. Good to finally do something on my car. Didn't amount to a whole lot but it is progress

Way to go Jamie. It will become more organized and easier in the next few sessions. Stay after it and keep posting your results.

I feel your pain! Not having shop space is what delayed my project for two decades. Building two storage sheds helped banish the "unwanted crap" from the garage, but space and organization is still a daily struggle. At this very moment, I'm sitting on my couch using a 914 door as a foot stool because I don't have any other place to put it. Despite that, I'm making good progress, and I know you will too. Oddly though, my constant cussing about the shop situation makes any problems with the project itself seem manageable. Good luck with your challenge!

Got the motor on the stand today. Flipped it over to pull the oil pan & remove the Small car motor mount. then pulled it back off the stand. Just waiting on my dang pressure plate bolts to arrive. Then I can finish the clutch & mate the transmission back up to the motor. Then onto my cradle & up in the car it goes. Really just to have it in place & test fitment everywhere. Still have a bunch to figure on the turbo, exhaust & intercooler setup. Can have a better idea of layout once I have it back in. Seriously only 30 min of screwing around with it today but just feels good to have my 914 as a focus again. I've got to get it back on the road. Was a nice day out today that would have been kick ass if I had my 914 running. I would have went for a nice afternoon shakedown run

We'll, your certainly back "in the groove". Shouldn't be too long now. Stay after it.

Jamie, question- are you still going with the stinger computer? What computer are you running now on your 2.5L that was in your car?

I'm doing a 2.5L conversion on an off-road car and looking for a cheap and easy computer solution.

Jamie, why not post a WTB add for the pieces you need. I love to fabricate stuff, and use my :welder:sometimes it is better to pay less and get a good start on a project.

Yes a Stinger ECU from out front on both counts. Also their custom wiring harness for it. I would say it is easy but it sure isn't cheap. Stinger ECU will run around $1400 I believe. Wiring harness another $5-600. So your into it 2k for your ECU & wiring. Probably only triple what you paid for your actual motor. Cheap & easy your better off pulling the complete wiring harness. Then using the stock ECU. All the documentation is online about how to cut down the harness to make it stand alone. You can also just send off the wiring harness to have someone else do it. Then again that also isn't cheap.

Not a bad idea but I have no idea at this point. Once it is up in place I could get more dimension. Would be best off with a local guy who can do it with my car there. At least for all the piping. My wrench has a great fabricator next door to his shop. Once I have everything close. I'll be taking it to him to make sure I didn't screw anything up. As well as facing the Exhaust & intercooler piping. I actually have a bunch of stuff for the intercooler & could probably make it work. I also plan to get a smaller battery & shrink my mount a bit. Where I have it on the firewall it just catches my turbo header on install. Going to run that Lithiom Miata battery which will let me cut 2" off my current mount. Which will make it all fit just nice

More pic's. pls.

i'm about to be in the same boat. Completing the same swap you are. I'll be doing something similar to DB's setup for the intercooler. small car makes a header that works with their mount for the turbo engine its $400 not cheap but will prob be really helpful. i really do not want to relocate the turbo so i MIGHT just cut a hole in the rear trunk. Save me a ton of time and money in trying to source oil lines and the cooling lines. My biggest fear is also blowing a turbo return line. A buddy at work says he's got it figured out and not to worry, I'm just waiting for it to warm up so i can get this thing "finished". My 15k btu heater only heats up the garage so much. I almost wish i went with the suby 6 would have saved me a ton of fab work.

Well I had some progress today. I also had a setback.

I got my clutch all done & installed. Mated my tranny back to my motor. Installed my zero decipals cable shift setup (with looks great). Didn't hook up to my shifter yet. Installed my cradle to the motor. Then using a combo of my mid rise scissor lift & my hydraulic table. I put it up into place in my car.

Which is where my problem is. My tranny ears don't line up & mount. Both my cradle & tranny ears are from Coldwater. Well I think they are. The tranny ears I got from my friend Brent. He was using a firewall mount. Talked to Ian & he is sending me another set of tranny ears to check. Basically my drivetrain is sitting 2 1/2 to 3" closer to the firewall than it should be. MY previous cut out in my rear trunk for my clutch arm definitely doesn't match where it was with my last motor. Also my motor isn't sitting level. My transmission needs to go up or my motor need to drop some to make it level. Either way I need to figure out how I am going to move my drivetrain back. Guess LineXing my cradle wasn't such a great idea without test fitting it first

Hmmm...that's weird. Can you post some pics of where they line up (or don't line up) with the trans mounting points on the car? You sure you have the trans hangers on correctly? Should look like this:

Click to view attachment

Take a look at this thread, starting at post 266:

Orange car

Has some helpful pics. Same engine, same cradle.

It is helpful. I am sure my tranny hangar's were either modified or weren't actually cold water's. Your picture shows about where it is sitting. So I think the cradle is right. What really threw me. It is just set farther forward than my last setup. I think that threw me more than the hangar's being off. I'll have the right hangar's later this week

Yes the engine sits farther forward with the cradle setup, but yours looks like it's in the right spot. The Subaru trans is longer. Once you get the right hangers you'll be good to go.

I heard from Brent & he made those tranny hangars. Not sure where I got the idea they were from Ian. Anyway minor technicality. I'll have the right hangars by the weekend. Also ordering my shift cables to.orrow from a place in CA. They were fast last time I ordered & reasonable. I do need the clevis joint for the clutch pedal to MC. Also getting a new MC conversion plate from Ross for the Honda MC. I have a wildwood MC & conversion plate for it. Think I will throw it in the classifieds once I am done. Overall I feel a little better about my progress yesterday.

I still may need to modify my header as my turbo is right up at the firewall. Also throws off my battery mount which was on the firewall right behind the passenger seat down low. My header hit it just barely when I text for it before. Now it is a good 3" closer than my test. Am going to buy the early Miata Deca battery & hope that is small enough I can cut dowm my mount & have it fit.