Yea' thanks guys.

I'm really looking forward to startin' them up together too.

I tried to get those Vette' C5 mufflers crammed up in there but I think it's not going to happen. Their friggin' huge.

I will bring them to a professional shop and maybe they have an idea or two about how to make them fit.

My cabinet maker friend was saying, "no way in hell, man". I would like to disagree but..... =-)))) LOL....

I'm might end up paying someone for that part of the project.... Unless someone needs some welding practice.....

QUOTE (John2kx @ Jul 23 2005, 09:53 AM)

Congradulations!!!! It looks like that carb just might fit under engine lid too. John

Hey John,

Yes, I believe the carb will just clear the boot. That means I can actually do my low rise solutino for a cool air intake. That's not going to happen until she's on the road and shaken down. Ya know what I mean?

It looks so pretty in there I'm now thinking of vented plexi glasss like the new Farrari's engine hatch's. KIDDING>>>>>>>>> =-)

A few nights ago I got the water pump tapped, fittings taped and installed, and temporarily placed where it needs to go for proper hose fitment and mounting.

Look, I said, "Mounting"....... hehhehehhehee

Sorry, last few nights have been great....

Yesterday I picked most of the fittings/parts for plumbing the cooling system.

Tomorrow night I begin cutting for, and hanging, water lines under the car.

So if I understand correctly...

1. I pop the plate off under the rack and pinion

2. Estimate where the pipes need to come through the front of the trunk

3. Cut hole in trunk for pipes.
(Arghhhhh. More cutting. I hate cutting perfectly good metal away. )

4. Get over it.

looks great man!!

Roger,

You've got the procedure right. Here's a pic that may help. I recommend drilling a small pilot hole for each hose and checking from under the car to ensure no issues.

I cut my holes 1/4" larger that the hose used and installed a grommet to prevent chaffing.

If your using two different size hoses (I did), think about which size goes in which hole for proper routing to/from radiator.

John

Dang John,

That is the prettiest front trunk.

Great idea using pilot holes. Will do.



Where did you get grommets that large?

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 27 2005, 12:39 PM)

Dang John, That is the prettiest front trunk. Great idea using pilot holes.  Will do. Where did you get grommets that large?

Thanks for the kudos. I made the trip to Vegas and took many pics of Scott's car which helped in just about every area of the conversion.

I picked up my grommets at Lowe's in the electrical section. Could not find the exact size I needed so ended up cutting the largest size they had, spreading the opening on the underside of hose and filling the remaining section with another piece of same size grommet.......if that made any sense.

If you've got your drivetrain installed and radiator mounted, the hose routing is about the easiest part of installation.

I'll attach a few more pics to give you some ideas. The clamps used to secure hose to chassis are also from Lowe's. If I had a nickel for every trip made there during the conversion.

John

dfgfdg

sdfgsd

This is my best front trunk shot. Krylon rattle can in fact......just take your time doing the prep work. It started off looking just as bad as the majority in the beginning.

Roger, I strongly suggest picking up a set of Magnaflows.

The C6's will not fit by any means

And magnaflows just sound awesome...

I know you've heard em.. but here are some clips of them with shorty headers.
2.5 in.

http://members.rennlist.com/dan10101/v8%20...und%20check.mpg

http://www.teamgracer.com/cars/videos/scca91605.wmv

Picked up a digital camera during the middle of the front trunk job and this is one of the few taken during that process. As you can see, I had to weld in a new piece to cover the hole left by dealer installed a/c.

Last one.........after about 3 weekends of sanding, having filler piece added, painting, only to have to paint again for not waiting the prescribed time before adding additional coats @#$%. Note to self: follow the instructions provided.

Hope some of these help. Keep us posted on your progress and feel free to post progress pictures. Believe me, you'll regret not taking pictures down the road.

John

Thought that I would add my .02 with this thread after reading it all when I built my exhaust for my V8 I used a dual in dual out Flowmaster fit great behind the tranny and had to cut the heat sheild but it looked like it was soposto be there and it had the Flowmaster sound. I'd have a picture but I sold the car and am forever looking for another.

Edit Found another picture you can see the exhaust tip thats about it

Hey KGB,,,

Yea', KGB.... Brings back many good memories.....

Are we talking about the same KGB???

Heck yea', I like those exhaust tips and I really like those wheels!!

Where can I pick up some like those???

I want to flare my 914 but my fenders are so nice as they are. I'm afraid another club member might slap me for screwing with some already good fenders.

Maybe I should try to swap some aftermarket flaired fenders for these good steel stock fenders.... I just do not like the GT flairs... I do like those Roger whatzhisnames flairs.

Thanks for the advice on mufflers Andy and KGB. Love the videos as always. =-)))

Andy, so if you were the one screaming like a school girl in the video who was driving? LOL KIDDING....... =-)

I just remembered... How am I supossed to do the throttle linkage? There was none with the car. I bought a stock 914 cable to replace the cut off one but now I'm not getting how it's routed...

Don't know what KGB your refering to, its my initials so thats why I use it
the wheels were on it when I bought it and they are very high dollar extremly expensive, VW Baja rims

Oh sorry. That used to be our secret acronym for "killer green bud". Guess it's no secret now....
VW Baja rims. Right on. Thanks. =-)))

Yeah I once owned a shirt that had that on it but I liked it cause it was my initials.

Rog,
Don't worry about your fenders, the rest of what you've done will get you slapped by those who would care about the fenders.

Isn't weird, I'm still woried about making my car "right", as close to stock as possible, except the SBC, the 911 front suspension, power windows, 911 style gauges, flared fenders, 5 lug Fuchs rims, 911 flag mirrors, suspension upgrades, chassis stiffening, etc. etc. I look at some stuff and think I wouldn't do that to a 914...

Eric

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 28 2005, 11:07 PM)

I just remembered... How am I supossed to do the throttle linkage? There was none with the car. I bought a stock 914 cable to replace the cut off one but now I'm not getting how it's routed...

Roger,

I routed my stock throttle linkage between front of engine and engine compartment bulkhead in this manner: My throttle cable is the one covered with a extra "red" sheath in pic.......this is to sheild heat from headers.

Where it exits the stock location at bottom of bulkhead, allow cable to run straight until it is past all belts (water pump, alt. etc.). From here you can start routing it up toward intake manifold. I attached cable with a few tie wraps to some of the other cables (speedometer, clutch) where it makes the 90 degree turn at bottom to prevent it from getting caught up in belts/pulleys.

Then start routing toward drivers side and "behind" the mounting bracket for the accessory you have on this side (water pump or alternator). Again, this is to prevent any interferance with pulleys and throttle cable.

From here it's a pretty straight shot to carb. I used one of the brackets supplied with my new holley carb to secure cable to engine. I believe the bracket I used is part of the kickdown bracket on some cars. The bracket needed a 90 degree twist to work in my application. Note in pics, bracket is attached to one side of thermostat housing.

Attachment at carb was also made by using a piece supplied with new carb. I would have preferred a better clevis for this connection but its what I had at the moment and worked fine.

If I were to do this again, I'd buy a longer throttle cable and route back to where engine/transaxle meet, and start my upward path to engine compartment from here. Reason for this new path is more room to work and fewer obstacles to avoid.

Hope the pics help.

John

asfsd

zxccv

Man John,

These pics are very helpful man. Muchas gracias'!

I'm printing the pics out now and since i've got today off it's garage playtime.. =-))))))

What was your biggest reason for wanting another V8 914?

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 29 2005, 11:29 AM)

What was your biggest reason for wanting another V8 914?

I sold the black 914 you see in the pics about a year ago and really miss it. Watching the recent threads of other conversions going together has giving me the bug again.
And, what can one say about not having the rush of running a v8 powered 914 through its paces.

Pictures were hard to come by when I built mine two years ago and the reason for taking so many when making progress on my car. If you need clarification on something, just ask. I'm no expert but did learn allot here and on the Bird site over time.

John

Thanks so much, again, for your help.

Tonight is great. I learned an engine can be adjusted to clear both the dizzy and the left valve cover. Mallory dual point BTW... =-) It fits perfectly now. Didn't have to cut out the trunk for the dizzy... and if anything happens with the dizzy, unlike any other HEI or electronic solution, I will know how to troubleshoot it in the middle of the night 1,000 miles from no where... LOL.

Heck, I eye-balled the points gap AND the timing and it started right up. YEA BABY!

Can you pull the distributor out with the engine in the car?

FYI, EASY closes at 1pm on Saturdays... Damn it. LOL.....

I need to pick up that thing that goes on the end of the clutch cable to connect to the fork.


Q:
Can you pull the distributor out with the engine in the car?

Good question.... I'll try tomorrow... =-) ...

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 30 2005, 09:33 PM)

Q: Can you pull the distributor out with the engine in the car? Good question.... I'll try tomorrow... =-) ...

Have fresh saw blades ready.

Do you have an hei or a standard dizzy?

YOu cant get an hei to fit without cutting... lol

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 30 2005, 09:33 PM)

Q: Can you pull the distributor out with the engine in the car? Good question.... I'll try tomorrow... =-) ...

Distributor and passenger side valve cover can be pulled in some cases without actual removal of engine. For the tall valve cover on passenger side, you can remove two bolts securing transaxle to chassis and lower rear of drivetrain a couple of inches to make needed clearance. However, some tall valve covers will allow removal on passenger side without having to lower front of engine.

You could take the same approach with the distributor by removing two securing bolts for engine bar and lowering front of drivetrain. Another approach would be to remove all 4 securing bolts holding drivetrain and shifting forward 2-3"........my point here is to avoid completely pulling drivetrain if at all possible. If you can get the dist. cap on and off without disturbing anything, I would not pull dist. if you already have it running right. Note: make sure your plug wires have the 90 degree fitting on dist. end. You'll need the added clearance when closing engine lid and trunk.

While your working on the ignition fitment, have you decided what type of coil your going to use and where to mount? In my case, I purchased a coil that would only allow a vertical mounting but wanted a horizontal positioning in car. Since this was a mail order purchase, I ended up with two coils before getting it right.

Once you get your throttle connected, get someone else to push throttle to floor while you check for WOT. This ususally needs adjustment the first time and you have some adjustment of the stop under throttle pedal.

Have you lengthed your shift rod 3/4" yet? This will require some welding. Let me know if you need pics.

CV bolts need special attention as well and you should be nearing that part of installation. If you have not reviewed this potential problem area, let us know.

John

This stuff makes me horny.

QUOTE (redshift @ Jul 31 2005, 05:26 AM)

This stuff makes me horny.

After reading my post again, I see your where your coming from. Will read it again before going to bed tonight : )

John

HAhhahhahaaaa!

You guys crack me up.

Yep, I'm kinda' getting wood thinking about that throttle linkage myself... Sick puppy that I am.

I have not addressed the shift linkage yet. Pics would be huge. Thanks John!

Tonight: Fine tuning the throttle linkage. Start looking at the CV's... I might be missing some bolts for those.... Grrrrrr. PO had no organizational skills and I got this car w/ no engine or trans. And one box of bolts. All cables cut at the cockpit exit. I'm glad he didn't cut brake lines.

I read somewhere that the CV's need gaskets???? At the mating surfaces? No?
I tried one side already and the two steel alignment holes fit tightly.

Whoops, here comes wood again.

QUOTE (John2kx @ Jul 31 2005, 09:35 AM)

QUOTE (redshift @ Jul 31 2005, 05:26 AM) This stuff makes me horny.  :clap:  :boing: After reading my post again, I see your where your coming from. Will read it again before going to bed tonight : ) John

lol..

I just took a nap, and I had a dream that you pulled up in Roger's drive, in a 6-speed 454 914 station wagon...

When you got out, and went around back, you come out with this glowing orb, that weighs 38 grams... and say, "Here Roger, it's my latest sub-neutronic particle smasher, about 12,000 bhp at the tire.." Roger looks all giddy and we stand there gawking at it's bright gold glowing...

... then we broke off a little piece of it and smoked it..

This is how all my nice dreams go..


M

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 31 2005, 10:32 AM)

I have not addressed the shift linkage yet.  Pics would be huge.  Thanks John!

Roger,

This pic should give you the location of where to insert sleeve (3/4" O.D. steel tubing). 1-1/4" is the amount you want to lengthen it.

Scribe a line at the location you want to make cut of shift rod. Cut your shift rod, insert new piece and use scribed line to line rod back up before welding.

John

Installed the new throttle cable minus attachment to carb.
Installed new clutch cable minus attachment to fork.


Mad the pilgrimage to "Easy" this morning and picked up some little bits.
Throttle cable screw holder thing that attaches cable to throttle linkage.
Clutch cable end thing that goes inbetween cable and clutch fork.
CV bolts.

Played with the Easy dog. Got slobber on my work pants.

All in all, a very good visit.

Forgot to ask them if they had put together SirAndy's axle solution yet... =-)

Hi Roger

You're using rubber mounts where the engine bar bolts up? I mount the bar solid to the body.

Roger,

If you get a chance, add a pic of the washers your talking about. I am not getting a visual of the problem you suffered from.

John

Holy crap.

That's probably why I've noticed my engine sitting lower in the engine compartment.... (extra clearance)

I wonder if this will throw off geometry of the rear wheels?

I like the extra clearance but it makes sense that everyone else seems to not have the throttle cable coming out directly into the crank pulley issue that I had...

QUOTE (John2kx @ Aug 2 2005, 12:57 PM)

Roger, If you get a chance, add a pic of the washers your talking about. I am not getting a visual of the problem you suffered from. John

I'll get that pic tonight.

They came with the 911 motor mounts. They are larger and cupped. Not particularly thick.
Large enough to entirely cover the rubber from above.

QUOTE

rogergrubb Posted on Aug 2 2005, 02:00 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Holy crap. That's probably why I've noticed my engine sitting lower in the engine compartment.... (extra clearance) I wonder if this will throw off geometry of the rear wheels? I like the extra clearance but it makes sense that everyone else seems to not have the throttle cable coming out directly into the crank pulley issue that I had...

There goes your distributer clearance.

Roger,

This is the best picture I have of this area and only shows the bottom area were talking about. As previously mentioned, the motor mount "bar" is mounted solid at the outboard locations. The only place 911 sport mounts are used are in the rear to secure trans. to chassis and I believe you already have that part figured out.

If your taking pics tonight, shoot both areas to make sure were comparing apples to apples.

John

It's funny when I was at Easy I asked for 911 motormounts and they gave me 4 of them.

I naturally assumed that I needed 4. LOL

While the motor is lowered i'm going to now clearance the firewall for the engines higher resting place.....

John, do youuse that huge moulded washer for on top of the motor mount? Above the body?

No, I cannot remove the dizzy. I couldn't before. =-)
No, an HEI wil not fit without the use of an angle grinder or sawzall.
An old school Mallory dual point will fit very nicely and does.

Yes, i'm a little pissed at myself. Oh well, tomorrow is a new, great day.

Running by this weekend??? Maybe.....

For the mounting of transaxle, this is how I mounted mine using 911 sport mounts.

Here's a little better picture of what the motor mount bar bolts to. What you can't see in this picture, because of the cable in the way, is where your bolt goes through rectangular piece.

John,
As you may have read, I got this car without engine or trans and a box of bolts. That's it. =-)))

Since i've never put one of these things together i'm having to figure out most of the assembly with the clubs members help.

This is what was included in the box...


I think maybe the pair of brackets will be OK. What do you think?

The one on the left is for the motor mount/bar and is what your bar will bolt directly to. Hopefully you have another to match.

The other two will be used in conjuntion with the 911 sport mount to secure transaxle. You'll see them at the very top of stack in the pic I attached. These could be replaced with large flat washers and only serve to prevent bolt from pulling through rubber on sport mount. You will notice the large flat mushroom shaped piece at bottom of stack. This is part of the original trans. mount and required a notch be cut to fit around trans. adaptor provided with conversion kit. This one also could be replaced with a large, thick flat washer if you don't have these available.

John

Hey John,
Thanks for the PM! As a matter of fact I've been playing "Tour guide" for my g-friends mother who is visiting from Mexico City for the past two weeks. It's been fun. However there's this itch which has not been getting it's scratches....

NO not THAT one... The 914.

We send her off on Sunday but i've got this afternoon to myself so i'll be brief here.]]

Just appreciated your support and yes, she is moving forward.

Without the 911 front motormounts on the 914 the engine will need clearancing. Dammit....

I've switched from "make it look pretty" mode, to "make her driveable" mode.

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 12 2005, 10:06 AM)

Without the 911 front motormounts on the 914 the engine will need clearancing.  Dammit....   I've switched from "make it look pretty" mode, to "make her driveable" mode.

Roger,

Is that hammer the firewall AND cut the trunk wall? My 283 had short valve covers so I'm afraid I will have to do some for the 358

I'm to the point of just getting the V-8 running. I have to get it out of the garage so I can fit the engine in Neo914...

QUOTE (Neo914-6 @ Aug 12 2005, 10:27 PM)

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 12 2005, 10:06 AM) Without the 911 front motormounts on the 914 the engine will need clearancing.  Dammit....   I've switched from "make it look pretty" mode, to "make her driveable" mode.   Roger, Is that hammer the firewall AND cut the trunk wall? My 283 had short valve covers so I'm afraid I will have to do some for the 358 I'm to the point of just getting the V-8 running. I have to get it out of the garage so I can fit the engine in Neo914...

Good morning Felix,

Yes, I would just plan on getting the engine in place, marking where the drivers side valve cover touches the firewall, and dropping the engine to "adjust" the firewall w/ a BFH.
A few touches w/ a BFH does wonders for so many things. =-)

358? What is that? 350 bored .040 over???

After doing the math on mine... a 350 bored .030 = 355 cid..