Progress!!!!

Only thing left on cooling system is to wire water pump and mount radiator. All is plumbed including burp locations.

Fuel pump is mounted and wires run to old relay board.

Need to figure out what wires leading to relay board are for. Desperately. The plan is to NOT use the old relay board. I will do something more up to date.

I already disassembled wiring plug and labeled pin numbers. Now just need to know what they're all for.

Mandatory foot shot is included...

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 13 2005, 08:25 AM)

Good morning Felix, Yes, I would just plan on getting the engine in place, marking where the drivers side valve cover touches the firewall, and dropping the engine to "adjust" the firewall w/ a BFH.   A few touches w/ a BFH does wonders for so many things.  =-) 358?  What is that?  350 bored .040 over??? After doing the math on mine...  a 350 bored .030 = 355 cid..

Got the cid from the PO, here's the specs
I guess you have to factor in the stroke as well:

358 cid - 30 over
Ross Racing Pistons
Eagle H Beam connecting rods – 6 inch
Edelbrock Aluminum Heads – 2.02 – 1.60
Forged crankshaft
Milodon gear drive
Cam – Edelbrock Hydraulic Flat Tappet – 134 – 244 @ 50 .488 - .510 gross
Compression 10:1
1.5 Aluminum Roller Rockers
High Volume oil pump
Two dyno measurements:
418 hp @ rear wheels
402 hp @ rear wheels
~440-460 hp @ motor

Roger,

See if you can find what you need here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914_electr...al_diagrams.htm

If I still had my Renegade wiring harness diagram, I could simpify. Maybe Aircooledboy still has these and will chime in.

John

QUOTE (Neo914-6 @ Aug 19 2005, 05:38 PM)

Two dyno measurements: 418 hp @ rear wheels 402 hp @ rear wheels ~440-460 hp @ motor

Pi R squared is volume.


R squared= 4.0602
*3.1416=12.7556
*3.5= 44.6446

*8= 357.1568 cid.

Dang I thought I did this calc before... 2 extra cubic inches is not a bad thing....


BTW, what's this sender and where does it go?

Oh yea', this evenings update....

Ignition is done.
Water pump wiring is done.
Fuel system and wiring is done.
Gas in tank. =-)))
Starter is wired.
Re-ran plug wires and ballast resistor.

Got a blinking red light in the oil pressure warning area of the gauges and I don't know how to fix that.

I did have to cut some of the trunk... not much...

Nice progress Roger.

I'm not sure if you were serious, but that sender is your oil pressure sender. If you've got a flashing oil light on the dash, you have got some wiring errors. I will see if I can track down the Renegade wiring cheat sheet if you still need it.

Chris

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 20 2005, 10:38 PM)

Oh yea', this evenings update.... Ignition is done. Water pump wiring is done. Fuel system and wiring is done. Gas in tank.  =-))) Starter is wired. Re-ran plug wires and ballast resistor. Got a blinking red light in the oil pressure warning area of the gauges and I don't know how to fix that. I did have to cut some of the trunk...  not much...

Roger,

As Chris mentioned, that is your oil sender and screws into block, left side of distributor. Sender is capable of supplying signal for stock idiot light as well as optional pressure gage. There is a mark on each side of sender (i think a G and II) but can't remember off the top of my head which side is for idiot light. Normal operation of oil pressure light is to turn on "solid" with ignition switch on (engine off) and go out when engine is running with normal oil pressure, ie above 8-10 psi.

Note: you'll need a short piece of 1/8" pipe threaded brass (1-1/2"-2") and a 90 degree elbow for clearance. See attached pic.


John

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 21 2005, 02:31 AM)

R squared= 4.0602 *3.1416=12.7556 *3.5= 44.6446 *8= 357.1568 cid. Dang I thought I did this calc before... 2 extra cubic inches is not a bad thing.... BTW, what's this sender and where does it go?

Hate to take those 2 inches away from you but a stock 350 crankshaft is 3.48 inches not 3.5

Bob

You mentioned a red flashing light in "oil pressure gage area". Parking brake will give red light if activated and is located at top of this gage. You can also get a brake warning light caused by faulty master cylinder. MC has a reset switch on side. Let me know if you need a pic.

John

Big thanks to John, Bob, and Mc Mark, for a floor jack. =-)

Hey John, I looked on the Master Cyl and saw little on the side. One electric clip and that's about it. If you have a pic handy that would be great. =-))

Today i'm extending the shift rod and setting up a custom gas pedal hinge.... ala door hinge. (no comments from the peanut gallery please.... )

I straightened the shift rod and it's about 1" short. I cut at the appropriate spot, welded in a 1" piece, and cannot get it in now.

So now i[m going to keep it in half and figure soem sort of disconnect device. easier for an oil change.

Chopped off a Vette muffeler and found that I can snub the end off and it will fit.....

Gotta go. Hot date with a 914...

That's an oil sender....

BTW...sent ya PM on the Supertrapps....

QUOTE (SEEMORE BUTZ @ Aug 24 2005, 07:02 PM)

That's an oil sender.... BTW...sent ya PM on the Supertrapps....

Hey Seymore, =-)

I checked out Summit for some Super Trapps and if I go that route it looks like I can get similar ones for less, new. Thanks though. Best of luck on sellin' 'em. =-)

Last I checked they were 200 EACH...I'm asking 200 for the PAIR....

dasdasdasd

Engine DONE!

Pedal fix.

Tomorrow my buddy John is dropping by to start her up and stand by with a couple of fire extinguishers.....

More to come.

Keep it up Roger. You're getting close man! I'll avoid the comment about the rod working when it's extended... and just look forward to your next progress report!

Hey Mr. Z,

Do you have any close-ups of those SuperTrapps??? =-) (rethinking muffler options)

Rand, i appreciate your comments. And "yes" my rod will be extended fully from now on, 24/7.

I must be forgetting something...
Fuel
Water
Throttle
Clutch
Ignition system
Brakes

Oh yea, I have to wire the cooling fans...... Grrrrrrr...... Well almost done.

Keep ya entertained with a pic of me and Mom at the kite festival in Berkeley...

be very still... and run when i say.. there is an army of flying octopusseses behind you... ok... NOW! GO!!! RUN AWAY!


m

MILES, you never cease to crack me up..... Ghs342 23 3 432 35 543 4 42...... Yess, 42, after all. Phtblfthphht. Phtff. Ffft. Pht. 42.

Roger... Don't choke your V8 with SuperCrapps. Magnaflows would be nice.

I hope you'll get that manly beast to WCC06!!! Can't wait to see it first hand!

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 24 2005, 05:43 PM)

Hey John, I looked on the Master Cyl and saw little on the side.  One electric clip and that's about it.  If you have a pic handy that would be great.   =-))

Roger,

Your close. Push the black button right next to the electrical clip that you located. Note: not the one being pointed out with blue tool in attached pic.

John

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 24 2005, 05:43 PM)

I straightened the shift rod and it's about 1" short.  I cut at the appropriate spot, welded in a 1" piece, and cannot get it in now. So now i[m going to keep it in half and figure soem sort of disconnect device.  easier for an oil change.

Straighening the shift rod is not required and may be causing you the problem described. I recommend finding another, lengthening it as mentioned earlier and install. Another connection point would be my last choice. Note: shift rod should be made 1-1/4" longer than stock.

Shift rod can contact oil filter if you use one of the taller filters and will prevent install/removal of filter with shift rod installed......BTDT, just use one of the short GM oil filters to eliminate this problem (pic attached)

John

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 24 2005, 08:57 PM)

I must be forgetting something... Fuel Water Throttle Clutch Ignition system Brakes

Roger,

Sounds like your getting close. A few things that come to mind:

Tach: some means of monitoring engine rpm during break in period. The stock tach won't work without modification connected to a v8.

Water temp/oil pressure gages: you mentioned having a oil pressure sender and assume you have that worked out. Water temp. monitoring is crutial to this project.....good gage installed?

Air removal from cooling system: I'd leave fill cap off to allow air removal until your ready to fire it up. You will notice the level drop over several hours. Continue to fill (cup size) until that time comes.

Cooling Fans: in addition to wiring them up for normal operation, I'd have a way figured out (ahead of time) to jumper the fans, providing constant running during the break in of engine. This will eliminate cooling system from playing catchup during this crutial time and prevent you from turning off engine (due to high water temp.) during break in.

Cooling system overflow tank: I don't see one installed in pics and advise using if not already in place. Add a couple of inches of water to tank prior to intial start.

misc.: battery @ full charge?

QUOTE (John2kx @ Aug 25 2005, 07:08 AM)

Tach: some means of monitoring engine rpm during break in period. The stock tach won't work without modification connected to a v8.

I am just reading along and learning as Roger tells the story and John and everbody's offers advise.

I thought I'd suggest a dwell/tach meter if you need a temporary tachometer. You probably have or can borrow one.

When you are assured you have all your installation done, this is how I start a new v8 in a 914 (assuming you have a friend there to help):

-Fill port to cooling system open. Extra water available as well as radiator cap.

-Helper starts engine and keeps running until you can set idle to 2200-2500 at carb for 20 minutes.

-Helper bypass fans to run continiously

-Monitor fill port to cooling system. You should observe air bubbles forming and escaping from open port. Add water if you see the level drop. In about 3-4 minutes, water temperature will rise to about 160F, causing it to expand. At this point, install radiator cap. The object here is to allow as much trapped air as possible to excape before closing system up. Caution: Do not vary engine rpm during this procedure. Any drasitic changes in rpm will cause a big mess caused by coolant ejecting from fill port.

-Helper should monitor for leaks, fire, water temp, oil pressure.

-If you made it this far without any problems, turn engine off and burp air from top of radiator when temperature drops to about 170F. When a steady stream of water is visable at petcock, close it off........your now ready to hit the streets.

-I change oil and filter after intial break in or shortly after.

-If your running a kevlar clutch, you'll need to be very carefull for the first 100 miles.

-Between 50-100 miles, retorque ALL your cv axle bolts. This is critical as they will loosen initially with the v8 installed.

-Burping of cooling system: for the first several outings, burp the system by ensuring you have some level of water in recovery tank, open fill port while engine is cool (as in overnight) and start engine and allow to idle. Observe for air bubbles as engine temperature rises, add water if necessary. Heat soak engine by driving at least 20 miles in traffic as well as highway type driving at a minimum. When you get back home, turn off engine and allow air to escape from petcock at top of radiator when engine cools to 170F. During the overnight cool down (minimum of 4-6 hrs.), vacuum from cooling system will draw water from expansion tank back into cooling system.

At this point you should have air removed from sytem and should be able to establish a normal level in expansion tank, ie the same level when completely cooled. If your losing water in expansion tank, you've got a problem.

Have helper keep beer cold or make beer runs as necessary.

Good luck,

John

I'd recommend opening the radiator bleeder petcock while you are initially filling the system. Leave it open until a stream of coolant comes out then close it. Normally I never have to touch it again.

C5 'Vette muffler getting "shortened" so it'll actually fit.......

Vette muff before gutting a little bit.

Getting gutted.

For that "non-factory" sound.........

Dumping towards the outsides.

or dumping towards the center?????

I think the center... =-)

Oh yea', forgot to add....

Fired her up today. First time started in the car.

Cooling system got burped and then it worked fine.
At first there was an air pocket in the waterpump which allowed for ZERO pumping................

Started warming up the motor and pouring water in and squeezing the hoses and venting the air bleeds and "Walla". Water started to circulate. Yahooooo.

After tonights welding party and tomorrows exhaust pipe purchase... Bebe should be ready for Hooters in Dublin on Sat afternoon with the rest of the V8 914's....



Corvette "over axle" pipes. With mufflers found on Craigslist $35.00 =-)

OK, my official consensus is that "I suck". My idea of using the C5 muffs was a good idea but require too much modification for my skill set.


And NO muff shop will touch them... Even after I told them I would sign a hold harmless agreement.... Whatever....

So now i'm looking at a set of Flowmaster 40's.

2 1/2" in/out. Any thoughts on them??
P/N FLO-42543
FlowMaster Muff

The flowmaster 40 sounds good outside of car but may get on your nerves due to the noise in cabin.

No mater which muffler you get, I recommend a offset inlet and outlet for ease of mounting and adjustment.

John

Roger,the project looks great!....just curious,do you weld with shorts and sandals on???

SteveSr

Hey Roger, I just read through your whole thread here, I will attach a picture of my muffler setup for you to look at, it is using a single dual inlet, dual outlet Walker muffler for a Camaro/Trans Am. The sound is nice, quiet on the inside and not really loud outside. Most people like the way it sounds. I know I do. Here are the pictures.

Next

The whole system out of the car.

And this is what it looks like from behind

Scott,

That is exactly the muffler I am considering.....I have seen them before, but didn't know the specific application. What year(s) Camaro/Trans-Am is it form?

Looks very nice.

Andy

I think they are from 82 to 92 but I could be mistaken. I had a 93 Trans Am and it was similar so they could have been the same. I know the 80's cars used this muffler.

John,
Wow, it's amazing how things change in one day...

First i'm thinking these C5 muffs can be shortened and installed.
Then i'm thinking no one wil help install them.
Tehn I think Flowmaster 40's.
Then I go by a friend of a friends muff shop this morning as a last ditch effort and he say's no problemo' on the Vette muffs.

This mornings turned out to be a great morning!

Yesterday a new Edelbrock 750 double pumper went on and got a nice tune. (Not under load yet) but it idles real SICK (good). I love the easy access to primary air screws and the secondaries even have an easy adjustment also.
I feel like i got my cake and eat it too.

Today i get to actually weld the shift rod, attach the axles, and add a ground strap from the tranny to the body (little starting issue and i'm guessint this will fix it.).

Cheers to everyone! Only a week and a half of vacation left...

Anyone need a hand on their teeners while i'm off???

Roger, dont worry about everyone elses teeners, get yours done, you are so close to driving it. Just make sure you double check everything before you romp on it. If your trans is stock, dont romp too hard, they are not as strong as we are led to believe. Ask me how I know. Watch your CV bolts also, check them after driving it 100 miles or so and continue to do so every so often. The trans and the CV's are your weakest links.

Oh, and despite what anyone says, these cars flex under power, I have cracks all over the car to prove it. Places you would not expect like the top of the sail panels. The power really twists these cars. I even installed the chassis stiffening kit in the rear and the boxed trailing arms. I am going to install the Engman inner long kit and hope that will make a difference.

QUOTE (SteveSr @ Aug 30 2005, 07:53 AM)

Roger,the project looks great!....just curious,do you weld with shorts and sandals on??? SteveSr

Just in case anyone (Steve Sr.) wants to know if i weld with shorts and sandals on.........

Yes.

Like J. Mellencamp says, "Hurts soooo good".

QUOTE (skline @ Aug 30 2005, 10:29 AM)

Roger, dont worry about everyone elses teeners, get yours done, you are so close to driving it. Just make sure you double check everything before you romp on it. If your trans is stock, dont romp too hard, they are not as strong as we are led to believe. Ask me how I know. Watch your CV bolts also, check them after driving it 100 miles or so and continue to do so every so often. The trans and the CV's are your weakest links. Oh, and despite what anyone says, these cars flex under power, I have cracks all over the car to prove it. Places you would not expect like the top of the sail panels. The power really twists these cars. I even installed the chassis stiffening kit in the rear and the boxed trailing arms. I am going to install the Engman inner long kit and hope that will make a difference.

Scott, how did you blow your tranny? What's the story behing it?

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 30 2005, 09:22 AM)

add a ground strap from the tranny to the body (little starting issue and i'm guessint this will fix it.). Cheers to everyone!  Only a week and a half of vacation left... Anyone need a hand on their teeners while i'm off???

BTDT, I had a choke cable that was grounding the drivetrain until I re-connected the strap!



Good progress, drive it to my place and finish mine

Shift rod is welded and adjusted. Sweeeeeet!

Noted 4 disconnected wires near the shift boot.
Should I be concerned?

Some before and after pics.

Thanks again Aaron. =-)

Wires disconnected.....

Wuzup wit dat?

Shifter adjusted and lookin good. Feels good. =-)

AAA picks up the car in the morning for her little journey to the muff shop.

Then it's off to the races.. so to speak.

disconnected wires are for your center console roger

AA