This evenings updates.

Got the radiator via UPS. Looks like the fans will fit well on it with a shroud.

Got intake and carb on. Dizzy on. Front motor mount on.
Previous pics were test fits. =-)

Oh yea', and finally found a cheap bypass valve online... What a pain in the arse.

With fans roughly in place.

Anyone have a V8 and keep their spare tire too????

engine tonight

With the first cuts in the front trunk, I kinda' feel like I'm deflowering my 14.

I'll get over it quick. =-)

Damn it, I told myself "no more toes in any pics"....

Looks good man . How are you going to mount that radiator?
Eric

So.... Why did you cut that area for the inlet?

You realize that that area is normally left to guide the air from the front bumper... Since the front bumper gets much more airflow than the bottom of the car (unless properly "scooped")

Curious... What research let you to decide to cut there?

Everything else looks really good!

Andrew

Andy,
I think it was 914GT's pics where I got the idea for the opening. 105 degree Arizona heat test can't be bad.

I understand the Ram effect and scooping air up into the radiator and now that you mention it I may put some of the floor back in to amplify the scooping effect.

Highway cruising is not what I was worried about. It is the commute driving and having maximum air flow into the system at low to no speed.

Whoops, sorry Eric for lagging....

I'm going to weld-up some "slide in" type of brakcets. So I can just disconnect hoses and wires and slide it out. Top view might look kinda like ([ ]) .

Little update.

Picked up 2 pieces approx. 1 1/4" X 6' conduit. Water lines up to and back from the radiator.

Also picked up some radiator protection stuff. Thick screen door material. Strong and let's the air through nicely.

The plan is to use 250 degree epoxy to fasten fittings to the ends of the conduit for hose connectivity.

Routing under the rockers is appealing except I think that the front of the pipe has to go through the front wheel well. Has anyone done anything different to route that puppy?

I apreciate all of your thoughts and would rather hear it from you now than hear it from you later... LOL

Roger, you sure you want to trust epoxy for that? I don't know but your operating temps are not too far below the epoxy's rating and it's under pressure. Sure hate for you to blow a hose off when hot and under pressure. What kind of conduit did you go with?

What kind? Regular old galvanized. =-)

I've done radiator repairs with "this" epoxy on aluminum. It really works well under pressure and with the right epoxy, does well at temperatures.

Roger,

I recommend the well tested hose and routing method used by Renegade. It easy to install and will not cause problems in the event you encounter a speed bump.

If worried about your hoses making contact with a speed bump, wait until you see how low the engine mount is located when it's all buttoned up.

Proper cooling of engine will be your biggest challenge once you get up and running. Renegade has the best track record and I'd follow their procedures for all parts (hoses, barbed fittings, expansion tank, thermostat, fill port etc.)

Regards,

John

Renegades' green strip hose secured with conduit clamps.

plenty of room for speed bumps or "off track" events : )

Yes John2K, that looks great.

Tonights update pics...

kkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

jjjjjjjj

Did you light it?

Did you paint those valve covers?

I painted my airbox that same terrible color!



Then I painted it silver!




M

I didn't light it tonight.
Here's why....

I got my bypass valve installed and oil filter on.

Now I can't get the tranny on.

Seems the throw out bearing is keeping the tranny from sliding in all the way...

Is there an adjustment either on the "ball" inside the trans, or should I bend the fork? I saw that as a solution on another V8 thread.

Felix, that disgusting color on the valve covers is a Summit powder coating optional color. I love 'em! But i'm a sick bastard anyways.

I can always count on you Miles for words of wisdom....

Or not.

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 5 2005, 11:56 PM)

I didn't light it tonight. Here's why.... I got my bypass valve installed and oil filter on. Now I can't get the tranny on. Seems the throw out bearing is keeping the tranny from sliding in all the way... Is there an adjustment either on the "ball" inside the trans, or should I bend the fork?  I saw that as a solution on another V8 thread. Felix,  that disgusting color on the valve covers is Summit powder coting specials.  I love 'em!     But i'm a sick bastard anyways.

Check the disc alignment, I don't think you can mount it upside down.

Did you check the ID of the pilot bearing vs the OD of the input shaft?

Sometimes the TO bearing gets ahead of the fork during install, I've struggled with that ~1" a few times.

It shouldn't be the arm keeping the tranny from sliding on. Those arm mods help the arm to engage and release the clutch with a longer movement.

Everything else looks good...

I don't mind the valve cover color if you had other components color match.

QUOTE (Neo914 @ Jul 6 2005, 01:30 AM)

[QUOTE=rogergrubb,Jul 5 2005, 11:56 PM] Check the disc alignment, I don't think you can mount it upside down. Did you check the ID of the pilot bearing vs the OD of the input shaft? Sometimes the TO bearing gets ahead of the fork during install, I've struggled with that ~1" a few times. It shouldn't be the arm keeping the tranny from sliding on. Those arm mods help the arm to engage and release the clutch with a longer movement. Everything else looks good... I don't mind the valve cover color if you had other components color match.

Felix,
The clutch plate only goes in one way. If I were to flip it the center of the clutch disk would hit the pilot bearing. So that's not it.

Did you check the ID of the pilot bearing vs the OD of the input shaft?
Yes. I pre-slid on the pilot bearing onto the input shaft of the tranny. No problems there.

Sometimes the TO bearing gets ahead of the fork during install, I've struggled with that ~1" a few times.
The tranny has about 1" of space to make contact with the engine block. I prefit the TO bearing and fork and checked the movement and it looked normal. When I pressed the tranny towards the block, I could move the clutch fork back and forth and the tranny would move back and forth from the block. So it's definately being held back from the block by the TO bearing.

Roger,

Many have run into this problem and the cause is most often a mismatch of parts. Did you obtain the clutch/pp/tob as a package? If so, you could start a process of elimination by:

1. removing the t/o bearing from fork and check for fit. It it still won't go, your fork may be contacting pressure plate. I've seen this several times but usually happens with engine/transaxle mated closer than the 1" gap your seeing.

2. remove all washers installed behind "ball" and check for fit. IIRC, every washer installed pushes the t/o bearing forward about 1/4" inch.

3. a couple of the bolts securing flywheel to crankshaft appear to be sticking out about 1". That's either just the angle of the pic or you took it before securing all bolts?

John

John,
The pic is with the bolts not torqued down yet. =-) No clearance issues there.

I didn't know about the washers behind the pivot ball. I will check that as soon as I get home. I will also check to see if removing the TO bearing makes a difference. I'm sure it will.. =-)

Last night I was really trying to see exactly where the point of resistance was and I believe it was the TO bearing.

Probably a simple pivot ball adjustment ... Update will be posted tonight.

Thanks again John. This is a real learning experience. LOL

Yep, tonight was a learning experience.

I learned that the tranny will not go on all the way unless the pressure plate is torqued down. Me= dumb shit... I was getting ready to perform surgery on the fork... LOL

Tomorrow I pick up some fuel line, hose clamps, distributor clamp down thing, and permatex. Then it's "Fire it up" time!!!!!!!

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jun 28 2005, 11:03 PM)

With fans roughly in place. Anyone have a V8 and keep their spare tire too????

Could always put the spare tire in the rear-trunk tire-mount location. That'd be an easy way to do it, if you didn't like it up front behind the radiator.

This is where I left off last night.

Fired the engine for the first time. It's peppy, to say the least. =-))))

Tonight I figure out how the Renegade rear mounts work. I was checking out 914GT's progress pics and I couldn't see a good side shot to know for sure how they go. I guess I could call Scott at Renegade....

Workey workey time. Later.

you might want to remove teh cap and rotor before you stick that in

This is how I installed the Renegade rear mount. Large mushroom shaped washer was notched to fit around RH piece. I'm also using 911 sport mounts here.

John

another angle

Yes! John Thanks so much.

I have the exact parts U have. Now I know how they go together.

BTW, did U like the Borlas U used or would U have done it differently?????

Tonight is going to be so great. I'm STOKED, man.

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 13 2005, 01:15 PM)

BTW, did U like the Borlas U used or would U have done it differently?????

Actually, I tried three different mufflers. Borla, Walker and Flowmaster 40. The Borla was my favorite. One of the best things about the 914 v8 conversion is the mufflers can be changed out in about 20 minutes. Just choose the same size mufflers from the start, ie inlet outlet size, offset(s) and total length. Of the three that I used, these dimensions were all the same, making the swap between quiet to mild or loud a easy process.

John

As it is, i'm going to try to stuff some 'Vette C6 mufflers under there. Andyrew says they're too big but Im' a stubborn *uck sometimes.

Remove the muffler heat shield from the 914 and this opens up alot more room and those C6 mufflers will fit with no problem. Get some mandrel bent U bends and start welding.

Do you plan to mount them with all 4 tips in the center?

Bob

QUOTE (BIGKAT_83 @ Jul 13 2005, 04:46 PM)

Remove the muffler heat shield from the 914 and this opens up alot more room and those C6 will fit with no problem. Get some mandrel bent U bends and start welding. Do you plan to mount them with all 4 tips in the center? Bob

4 tips in the center????

Oh hell yea', baby!!!

It'll look like this if I have my way with her.... { OOOO }

I'm so glad I'm taking all of you guy's advice. It's really making a difference on how things go together. THANK YOU!!!

Engine went in.
Engine came out. Front clearance. Had to trim lip that protrudes at the level of the water inlets. Quick job with a 6" angle grinder and a cutting wheel. =-)

Today I run all water lines off the engine, figure out any wiring that should be connected before engine goes in again, and charging wires.

After that, it's fuel, shifting, throttle systems.... and after that it's......... Drive it!!!!!!!

A few pics.
My buddy Mikey is the bald dude. I suggest that anyone doing this get a friend. If for nothing else, moral support. This is not easy.

Sure it'll fit. =-) )))))))

Roger,

A couple of us here in Ga. were wondering how it was going. Glad to see your making progress. The R&R gets easier each time.

Removing the rear wheels/tires and using a furniture dolly would really cut your install time down as it provides more room and easier movement of drivetrain as it mates with chassis. I've done it that way by myself several times.

Sound clips tomorrow? : )

John

I'm impressed with your progress. keep up the good work.

Good progress the last few days.

Got the engine in. Then out. then made some "clearance" adjustments... =-) Now ready to go back in.

Figured out some electronic stuff. Running wires and starter, water pump, alternator, ... ignition. Nothing very important.

Then fabricated the fan shroud out of stainless steel. Came out pretty good considering I've never done this kind of thing before. Just watched the fellas' at the OCC. LOL

111

69696969 =-)

6969696969 =-)

Tracing for the openings.

So I see this man wearing this Teeshirt. And it say's, "It's not going to suck itself"....
His G-friend had one that said, "It's not going to lick itself"...

Leave it to Berkeley....

Finished product. Whoooo hooooo!

Check that off the list.

Now it's in.

We'll see how long that lasts.....

Congradulations!!!! It looks like that carb just might fit under engine lid too.

John

WOOHOO! Go Rog!


M

36 days to "the" meet.

One of the best parts of the Great Mall meet was firing up everyone's engines.