That fuse box is really nice. Where did you get it?

-Tony

QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Dec 18 2005, 12:50 PM)

That fuse box is really nice. Where did you get it? -Tony

i got the fuse block at west marine. you can get it online HERE

i like 'em because they have a built-in pos/neg attachment block to run higher current from.
Picture courtesy of west marine...

Yahoo,
the gotti's are on their way from Fla.
and after christmas the sheridan flares will be too.

Oh forgot to include that i picked up a 911 front end with over rack sway bar. fresh rotors/calipers. now i need a rear 5 bolt solution.... Mar7ck... how much U want for yours again?????

dfdfdfdfdf

sheridan1

2222222

Mommy.

Good boy!
I suggest Eric for the rear solution... Not a bad price either..

Look in the part resources.

Andrew

still got to figure the coolest wheel inner color..... gold anodized has got to go. it's bit too 70's for me.

What color you painting the car?

Hey Roger,

I' like 350.00. I think that is what I think I mentioned in the last email. If you remember differently email me.
Calipers(rebuilt,spaced for 911 rotors), rotors (cut down to 914 diameter) and 71 hubs w/bosses (they need to be drilled).

Enjoy

Oh yeah, Roger, I am your one stop Porsche shop.
Great job on the calender.

Mar7ck

Thanks Mar7ck!!!!

Little update.

Just got back from Mar7ck's house.

Now I have new upgraded 5 bolt, vented, cross drilled rotors, front AND rear WITH E-brakes. =-)))

After Breaking Bebe in and going through the experiencing of faded stock brakes at high speed.. .. Hopefully that'll never happen again...

Hope everyoneis having a happy holiday season....

hey,

big thanks to leo imperial and mike mueller. thanks guys.

i got the front suspension off, then leo helped me put the new suspension on, then mike came and helped me get the rear hubs and bearings off/out. what a bee@tch! but they did come off.

all that work and no lug nuts. but you dont care about that anyway.

u want pics... yea', i know.... so here ya' go.

this ones of the old suspension. in great shape BTW... new bearings and ball joints feel right on the money. FSBO. anyone need one?

5 bolt w/newer rack and pinion and fresh rotors and pads.

coolant lines dropped and suspension off

leo with the new suspension and new wheel. yea baby!!!!

mikey workin' his magic.

work it, work it, work it.

8" wheels.

and 10" ers.

OK, so the 10's go on the rear but i had to see how they fit on the front just for the fun of it.

very nice.

once again, big thanks to leo and mike mueller for the help and guidance. i learned lots of little tricks to get 'er done right. =-)

and i got to exercise my pizza making skills. mike does not like anchovies...

Hey Roger...thanks for dinner and the grease under my fingernails, hahahha

make sure you buy the correct brake line wrenches

I scored some Koni adjustables w/Coleman perch's and 140# Hypercoils. May need to go up on the spring rates later but until then.... also picked up the Sheridan rear flares today. they're so dang light!!!! the lady at greyhound asked me if i wold pick them up because they looked so big and heavy. i reached over and picked them up together with two fingers.

this thing is going to be so bitchin'....
also going to pickup new CV boots for the 930 axles and expect the axle adaptors tomorrow or the day after.

i hope i can get to sleep tonight.....

BTW.... everything you see here.... $200.00

HOLD ON HERE! I missed something. When did you get the 930 axels? Where did you get them from and how much did you pay for them? 930 adaptors, who supplied those for you, and what are you adapting them to? Sorry for all the questions but I have been following your great build and these are things that I could likely use on my re-build up.

hey paul,

craigslist.com is where i got the axles with good CV's and stubs. $40.00. patience paid off once again.

before i started the 914 project i did lots of searching on this site for solutions to upgrading the weak links. although i don't see many people using the 930 axles. i don't know why. price? i think the 930 axles/CV's are more expensive unless you can find a deal. BTW, 110mm CV's will just barely fit thru the 914 arms.

the entire rear drivetrain assembly is now going to be a fresh flipped H gear 901, going into Patrick Motorsport axle adaptors, to 930 axles, CV's, and stubs, thru 914 swing arms, 5 bolt hubs, thru 911 vented/cross drilled/milled rotors, and "spaced" 914 calipers to retain the emergency brake.

just waiting on the PMS adaptors and bearings to put it all together!!!! Yea' baby!!!

Let me know when your ready.
Just so everyone who reads this knows.
Roger let me use his rear bearings so I could get my car back on the road
and now he is waiting for another set to do his car.
Thanks Roger, without your help I would still be on jackstands.

QUOTE (Leo Imperial @ Jan 10 2006, 01:08 PM)

Let me know when your ready. Just so everyone who reads this knows. Roger let me use his rear bearings so I could get my car back on the road and now he is waiting for another set to do his car. Thanks Roger, without your help I would still be on jackstands.

hey leo,

it was good to see your car back on the road. those cookie cutters and sticky yokohama's are off the hook.

and a big thanks for letting me take her for a spin an feel what a 2.0 can really do!

watch out you guys next time you see leo at a AX event....

geez, now you've got 911 front end, 180# springs in rear, stickies up front, and a sway bars. now ya' just need to sell that range rover to finance the 3.6 upgrade....

Thanks for the great information. I am enjoying your progress. Keep up the great work.

1991 Range Rover for sale

more progress.

CV adaptors.

adaptors installed with threadlock.

this rotor, part#901.352.041.14, needs to me machined down to 11.25" across to clear the spaced 914 calipers. 11.20" would be even better. =-)

tire and wheel temporarily installed.

maybe just roll the fenders??? NOT!

a few people were asking about width and back spacing.

the tires measure 10.5 inches sidewall to sidewall.

backspacing is 5.5 inches.

they protrude a lot and will require a 2" to 3" flared fender. no spacers.

Hi,
congrats on an outstanding conversion job! I just went through your entire thread - it was great to see the progress/ progression from start to finish. You should be proud of the work you did. (Motor/exhaust sounds really sexy too, BTW )

I've started reading the V8 conversion threads in here as I stumble across them, as I have a small-block chevy V8 (old, iron, though) languishing in my garage & was starting to think about doing a 914-8 conversion with it (..as if my 914-6/3.0 wasn't fun enough.. )

anyway I had a question on your conversion:
In all the pics I looked at, I did not see an alternator. Where & how did you install it?

curious,
mike

QUOTE (mikeyb33 @ Jan 13 2006, 02:00 PM)

Hi, congrats on an outstanding conversion job! I just went through your entire thread - it was great to see the progress/ progression from start to finish. You should be proud of the work you did. (Motor/exhaust sounds really sexy too, BTW ) I've started reading the V8 conversion threads in here as I stumble across them, as I have a small-block chevy V8 (old, iron, though) languishing in my garage & was starting to think about doing a 914-8 conversion with it (..as if my 914-6/3.0 wasn't fun enough.. ) anyway I had a question on your conversion: In all the pics I looked at, I did not see an alternator. Where & how did you install it? curious, mike

mike,

i used the renegade alternator brackets.

i used a new EBay single wire 100A alternator (<$100 shipped). generic body. the renegade brackets required a little massaging to get the alternator to allow for belt adjustment.

you could easily fab your own if your handy and have a decent shop.

geeez,

taped on the sheridan flares and they stick out furthur than i expected. dunno if i want to space the wheels to meet the fenders or chop the fenders to meet the tires (mostly because i've never chopped FG fenders to mate with steel stock fenders).

now i'm thinking of not using the flares and just doing a little surgery on the stock fenders.

to cut or not to cut? that is the question...

Roger, if you wanna do a panel beating tech session I can host it at the shop and lend what knowledge I gained doing Felix's flares. Flaring your steel wouldn't take much.

From your last picture I would say the Sheridan flairs are overkill. But if needed, I have (4) each 2” wheel spacers you can have. What size (width) tires are you using? It’s hard to tell from the pictures.

Mark

Geeeeeez, I guess I should check my progress thread every once in a while.


Mark, that is a very gracious offer. I will give it some serious thought while i'm finishing up the rear suspension/brakes and get back to you.

Is the "proper" way to beat it out and maintain the lip or trim the lip off?

I was atctually thinking of using my angle grinder to cut off the lip of the fenders using a thin cutting wheel, then beat out the fender, then welding the lip back on to keep the stock lipped look. =-)

What are your thought on that?

AND "reedhmb" the other Mark...

I will measure what the spacing is with whees on and fenders temporarily attached and if the spacers are close i'll take you up on that.

Yeah dood... slicing the lip first and putting it back looks best.

WTG!


M

QUOTE (reedhmb @ Jan 19 2006, 06:53 AM)

From your last picture I would say the Sheridan flairs are overkill. But if needed, I have (4) each 2” wheel spacers you can have. What size (width) tires are you using? It’s hard to tell from the pictures. Mark

the rears are 285/40/15's.

sidewall to sidewall they are 11" wide. 10.5" wheels.

i'm putting this here for my own reference.
i always forget what does what when it comes to shocks, springs, and sways...

OVERSTEER / UNDERSTEER CORRECTIONS

Understeer Corrections Oversteer Corrections.

Push, plowing, front tires slide out first. Loose, rear tires slide out first.

Usually slight understeer is safer. Oversteer can be dangerous, especially at high speeds.

Raise front tire pressure. Lower front tire pressure.

Lower rear tire pressure. Raise rear tire pressure.

Soften front shocks. Stiffen Bump. Stiffen front shocks.

Stiffen rear shocks. Soften rear shocks.

Lower front end. Raise front end.

Raise rear end. Lower rear end.

Widen front track. Reduce rear track.

Install shorter front tires. Install taller front tires.

Install taller rear tires. Install shorter rear tires.

Install wider front tires. Install narrower front tires.

Install narrower rear tires. Install wider rear tires.

Soften front sway bar. Stiffen front sway bar.

Stiffen rear sway bar. Soften rear sway bar.

More front toe out. More front toe in.

Reduce rear toe in slightly. Increase rear toe in.

Increase front negative camber. Reduce front negative camber.

Increase positive caster. Reduce positive caster.

Soften front springs. Stiffen front springs.

Stiffen rear springs. Soften rear springs.

May need more front suspension travel. May need more rear suspension travel.

Install wider front wheels. Install wider rear wheels.

Use softer front compound if possible. Use harder front compound if possible.

Use harder rear compound if possible. Use softer rear compound if possible.

Remove weight from front of vehicle. Add weight to front of vehicle.

Add weight to rear of vehicle. Remove weight from rear of vehicle.

Drive a different line. Driver may be going in too deep.

Use weight transfer to your advantage. Driver may be getting on the throttle to early.

High Speed. Increase front wing downforce. High Speed. Increase rear wing downforce.

Too much front brake. Too much rear brake.

Vehicle is TWITCHY at limit and hard to keep Vehicle slides and is easy to drive
ahead of in the steering department. at limit but does not corner to full potential.

Lower front and rear tire pressures slightly. Raise front and rear tire pressures slightly.

Suspension may be too stiff. Suspension may be too soft.

Shocks may be set too firm. Shocks may be too soft.

Tires may be old or hard. Roll centers may be too high.

Vehicle may not have enough suspension travel. Lower vehicle.

Vehicle may have a toe problem front or rear. Tires may be too hard.

Increase negative camber front and rear if possible. Widen track front & rear.



A properly set up vehicle will usually push slightly on corner entry, be fairly neutral at the apex (STEADY STATE) and exhibit slight power oversteer on corner exit. Tight courses may require more oversteer, fast tracks understeer.

Items needed: Accurate tire pyrometer, tire gauge, notebook and tape measure. Suspension information books.

Note: This is a sample of the methods used to correct various handling problems. Books have been written on this subject. Not every correction will always work as expected. Stiffer front sway bars will, in many cases, decrease understeer because of reduced body roll and better camber control. The best rule is to change only one thing at a time and keep notes.

Follow these suggestions at your own risk, we listed them to make your racing safer.

Alas! One new rear corner is complete.

914 caliper with spacer and E brake.
911 vented/drilled rotor, milled/diameter to fit within caliper.
914 pads.
911 brake pad pins, clips, and springs.
Washer/spacers to bring caliper inward "just a little bit".
911 hub and stub.
Turbo carrera axle, CV, and adaptor.
Calipers E brake is adjusted.

SWEET!

Well I measured the Sheridan fenders for spacers. Looks like 3 1/2" is needed. That would give me about 3/4" to play with.

3 1/2" is a little too big for my comfort so I think i'm going to go the steel fender flaring route. Save the Sheridans for when this car gets turned to a 100% sick street car.

Roger

run some 11" rims with a different offset... and some fat ass tyres

those are fuchin massive........

Too wide or not too wide?

That is the question.

No problemo'.

Just so happens I have a set 3 inch spacers.....4 sale like.....

Alritey then,

I didn't want to start the flaring project until i locked on to a set of at least 17" wheels.
This so I can build out the fenders to meet the wheels/tires and have perfect fitment.

The "catch of the day"...

Description:
Porsche 911 Turbo Twist 2 Hollow Spoke Wheels Rims with Tires
Condition: Used. Item is in Very Good condition.
Fits: 96-04 Turbo, C4S or C2S
Part Number: 996.362.136.04 18x8 ET50
996.362.142.11 18x11 ET40
these come with 3K mile Pilot Sports.

So the next question is does anyone have a set of at least 3" spacers? NO, not the ones that are selling on Ebay for >$250... =-)

Once again, taking the 914club brain-trust advice and not going over 8" in the front is going to be a good idea.... THANKS!!

Isn't there going to be a north bay get together soon? My ride won't be there but i'd like hook anyways for the fun of it.

I would go with 18x10's. unless you already got a deal on the set..

You dont want to go to wide here...

Oh, and your gona need 2in spacers.. at least

I think with your welding skill you should do the "cut and fit" fender flares.

Cut a line on the top, and cut from the middle of the flare up to that line.

Bring your wheels in, and drop them down. Get a hammer and dolly and get the metal to about how you want it, and fill it all in with more steel...

Andrew..

Say it isn't so..... =-)

(the 10" gotti's bolted right on. these 11"ers will need substantial spacers.)