front didnt need 2" more like 1"...


looks good. i hope you know how to do body work on the rear

QUOTE

front didnt need 2" more like 1"...

true.

but in the spirit of trying to keep the front and rear widths closer rather than farther apart i thought it prudent.

when leo imperial and i did his fenders he had one of those hydraulic expando thingies. and just like it happens sometimes, harbor freight has them on sale this week so the front fenders will get a little widening the same we we did his.

i just love the look of tires/wheels that come right out to the inner fenders without touching.


if i make it to the breakfast next weekend and you happen to see a FG fender laying in the street, it'll probably be mine. as i have ZERO body experience.

wish me luck.

If you want em extra strong, and you dont trust your fiberglass work.

Do everything you were originally going to do.. but when it comes time to haveing everything glued down, make sure you have your holed pre drilled (obviously), and grind down the fiberglass on the hole for room for pop rivits to be countersunk.

Pop rivets themselfts are plenty to hold it, and glue is also plenty to hold it, doing both, your just peachy.

Also this will help so that when the glue is set Instead of undrilling your screws (and having your glue around the screws crack ) you just ruff up the rivets and apply resin/fiberglass/bondo/kittyhair (your choice.. I did all in different area's)

Your were I was 2 months ago... But I figured it out finally on the last fender

GL dude.

i'm going to take your advice andyrew and do both methods.

not a slimming effect.

When hacking away at fenders, think radiused corners.
.......just my .02 of course. There's still extra metal there.

Don't leave the rivets in after the flares are bonded. They will expand and contract at different rates than the glass and read through the finish. Grind the unside of the steel Quarter panel and grind the inside of the flare and glas the inside as well as the outside. My flares have been bonded for over 10 years without a crack.

edit; are you installing them like JP's? If so, disregard my post.

Whats size is that in front?

Will it work with 1 inch spacers. Looks really good.!

But anyways can you post up the front a rear info. I couldn't find it all by going back. Thanks


these are cool
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18-Factory-...1QQcmdZViewItem

QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Mar 18 2006, 09:48 PM)

Don't leave the rivets in after the flares are bonded. They will expand and contract at different rates than the glass and read through the finish. Grind the unside of the steel Quarter panel and grind the inside of the flare and glas the inside as well as the outside. My flares have been bonded for over 10 years without a crack. edit; are you installing them like JP's? If so, disregard my post.

JP, yes, asthetics are me weak point but im' sure radiusing probably helps reduce stress cracks also. good idea. I'll do it.


rick, i was planning on just bonding the fenders to the steel.

then temporarily using self tapping screws to hold the FG fenders tight to the steel until the adhesive cures.

i like the idea of making holes and having the adhesive actually reaching thru the steel to "anchor" from the back side.


i'll definately do that.

is that what you meant?

QUOTE (turboman808 @ Mar 18 2006, 10:02 PM)

Whats size is that in front? Will it work with 1 inch spacers. Looks really good.! But anyways can you post up the front a rear info. I couldn't find it all by going back. Thanks these are cool http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18-Factory-...1QQcmdZViewItem

what size wheels??? tires?

spacers?

oh, missed th ebay link.....

mine are 225's and 295's. 8" and 11" wide. almost like those on ebay but my rubber is like new and michelin pilot sports. hollow spokes.

good deal IMHO.

ask JP about your new scrub radius

looks like fun

Sorry

Well I guess all of them.

Mainly the tires and wheels. Those 18x8 are gonna work on the front with no problems?

yeah I am in the middel of finalizing everything with the 914. I should have it in my possesion next weekend.

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Mar 18 2006, 10:17 PM)

ask JP about your new scrub radius looks like fun

hmmm scrub radius.... yes, way different.

i'm not looking forward to close quarters tight turns.

JP, what's your experience here?


once again, i'm hoping that there are so many people that have widened their front width that it shouldn't be THAT bad. right?

the 1" spacers would have been fine but i wanted to give my fenders a little push out to match the rear width a little closer.

225s up front aren't too bad......workable.
It's better to suck the tiars in as close to the
struts as you can get em' tho.

QUOTE (Dr. Roger @ Mar 18 2006, 10:24 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Mar 18 2006, 10:17 PM) ask JP about your new scrub radius  ;) looks like fun hmmm scrub radius.... yes, way different. i'm not looking forward to close quarters tight turns. JP, what's your experience here? once again, i'm hoping that there are so many people that have widened their front width that it shouldn't be THAT bad. right? the 1" spacers would have been fine but i wanted to give my fenders a little push out to match the rear width a little closer.

IIRC - JP is going to smaller width wheels cuz he cant turn em without powersteering

QUOTE (turboman808 @ Mar 18 2006, 10:18 PM)

Sorry Well I guess all of them. Mainly the tires and wheels. Those 18x8 are gonna work on the front with no problems? yeah I am in the middel of finalizing everything with the 914. I should have it in my possesion next weekend.

with the 8X50mm offset of my rims, a 1" spacer is probably just right.

your ebay rims are a 57mm offset so you might not need a spacer.

i prefer my wheels to be right out almost touching the inner fenders.

it's easier IMHO to but spacers and stretch the fenders to get the clearances just right.

914 fenders are not identical on each side as you will quickly find out. =-)

QUOTE (Dr. Roger @ Mar 18 2006, 10:29 PM)

QUOTE (turboman808 @ Mar 18 2006, 10:18 PM) Sorry   Well I guess all of them.   Mainly the tires and wheels.  Those 18x8 are gonna work on the front with no problems? yeah I am in the middel of finalizing everything with the 914.  I should have it in my possesion next weekend. with the 8X50mm offset of my rims, a 1" spacer is probably just right. your ebay rims are a 57mm offset so you might not need a spacer. i prefer my wheels to be right out almost touching the inner fenders. it's easier IMHO to but spacers and stretch the fenders to get the clearances just right. 914 fenders are not identical on each side as you will quickly find out. =-)

et 57 will require a spacer no matter what.....

typical offsets are 23 (7" fuchs) 36's, etc.....

QUOTE (Dr. Roger @ Mar 18 2006, 09:24 PM)

once again, i'm hoping that there are so many people that have widened their front width that it shouldn't be THAT bad. right?

One would think, eh?
Frankly, there are only a few folks here that understand suspension set-ups (IMO).....I have just scratched the surface of the 914's......so I ain't one of them.

Throwing 10 inch wide wheels & tires up front taught me about scrub radius....and it weren't pretty.

Lengthening the A-arms to gain room for more negative wheel offset has been suggested. I'd give that more serious consideration were it not for the side load problems I'm experiencing on the struts at present. A greater angle on the strut would increase this problem......not to mention the tie rods would be too short...

I going with a narrower W/T set up....similar to Rodger's. KISS.

QUOTE (Dr. Roger @ Mar 18 2006, 09:29 PM)

i prefer my wheels to be right out almost touching the inner fenders. it's easier IMHO to but spacers and stretch the fenders to get the clearances just right.

Well Yeah I am used to rolling fenders to get tires to fit

Definetly looks like you will have to to get that to work.

Since you have to paint your car it's not a big deal to roll it. I will try to use the same wheels and hopefully not have to roll anything. Car has new paint so I don't want to tweak it if I can help it.

thank you JP,

i thought 8's up front were just fine.

well, i'm out for tonight.

thanks again all for your input.

well that wasn't sooo bad.. LOL.
screwed and glued.
PC7 2 part epoxy.

now i need to do the other side fender, get the wiring temporarily up, reconnect the cooling lines, and give her a quick alignment. then it's off to emeryville saturday.

Sweet dude!
I wish I could have been there to watch you make that first cut
Bet that make your ass pucker.
No stop treating that thing like a garage queen and lets see some pictures of that beast on the road.

Sh#t dude..


thats fing wide....

Gota say those lines are more bad ass than my hph flares...

Thats a good thing and a bad thing... lol

thanks andy. =-)

hey leo, WuzuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuP????

how's right coast livin' treatin you and yours? how's the bun in the oven???

Bebe is looking more and more like she does steroids...

oh snap.

I just got wood

that is a phat ass.

WAAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSSSSU
I love the frame - EL SOBRANTE - Translation El mucho grande asso!
I've got ass envy. I feel like a skinny white chic.


BTW - Bun #2 is another boy

plate idea.... from the "curvy" sheridan flares...

or the other idea is...
v8. get it? =-)

IEAT VPR is the one I like..

but dad wont let me

Thats like where the name Mangusta came from.
Mongoose - Cobra eater.
Of course the Mangusta never did catch the Cobra.

how about
V8 DV8 (deviate)

or DEVI8 1
or DEVE8 1

or is that too vague?

deviate: swerve, curve,

Whats another word for pirate treasure?

I say its BOOTY.

I would focus on that big ass. Not whats inside.

Look at the size of her ass.

ILKBGBTZ

available:

ILKBGBT

WYDBACK

KLRKURV

oh, and my favorite...

ASSSET

oh leo, "I(heart)booty" is already taken......

but "I(heart)butay" is not.

God knows i'm an "ass man"....

installed smaller diameter cooling hoses today and tested.

3/4" I.D. to rad
7/8" I.D. from rad.

Mark Jones, I owe you now.

brought engine temp up to 185 then turned fans on.

engine temp came down to 165 and held steady there for half and hour.

Success! =-) I was kinda worried about the reduced I.D. hoses compared to what i was running... 1 1/2" LOL...

then i painted the other rear fender. Rustoleum white, to accent the other black fender.
at least now i know those fenders look more like patio furniture than ever before. uber trend-setting.

(note: this is where roger breaks out into song... McCartney's "ebony and ivory"... )

black or white?

are you bodyworking them in?


or are you just leaving it riveted on?

the big plan is to bodywork them in.

i know 2 part epoxy is great stuff but i'm still going to put at least 1K miles on her before backing out the the self tapping screws.

my artist friend says whenever i'm ready to paint, he'll be ready so it's a matter of getting my butt in gear which isn't going t happen unless there is a serious paradigm change. (which includes $$$ i don't have right now)



black is beautiful, baby.

lol black/white fenders with silver wheels...

Copy cat! My wheels were black on one side, and silver on the other

Keep that theme through the car, and we'll call it two face!

dang man. i'm scared of my car.

took her out for the first time with the new front suspension/brakes, tires/wheels, and vac advance attached.

the dizzy advance springs were setup for use with the vac advance which i had not attached last fall. big difference when attached and semi-timed. it pulls soooo hard now. zero wheel spin. next i need to spring for a good timing light.

wiring is still in progress but just enough to run a few laps around the neighborhood and piss off a few neighbors.
My old friend Rod joined me and said it accelerated like a drag boat. whatever that's like...

brakes are excellent but i will be keeping my eye out for a 19mm MC as i prefer a more firm feel. perhaps i will install the porterfield pads before buying the 19mm MC as i'm sure they will make a big difference.

lastly, i need to adjust the clutch and shift linkage. had trouble getting her into first gear. (second gear on most people's 5 speed)

if anyone is looking for a way to reduce their car insurance, ask about antique car insurance. my insurance guy just hooked me up for $180/yr with full coverage and small deductibles, and $10,000 stated value.

she running, rested and almost ready for the road.

got the alighment pretty close/tolerable and clutch/shifter linkage are now non-issues.

just need to wire the lights and yahooooooo!

yes, that's the rustomeum white.... LOL

Car looks good!!

What rubber did you get?

michelin Pilot Sports....

i wish they were the Pilot Sport Cup's.... =-))))

these will be toast fast enough... LOL

i'll have to start a seperate savings account for tires now...

Roger, from what I can tell from your pictures as to where the seams lines are (the joints between FG and steel), I think you may have a real problem bodyworking those panels in.

It's not so much an issue of the strength of the epoxy, but a flexibility issue.

Every car in the world has some flex, the 914 more than most. ESP. when coupled with a V8 and huge tires. It doesn't take a whole lot of flex for cracks to start cracking the paint at those joints.

Before you go through the time and expense of bodyworking those panels in, smoothing it out, and putting paint over it, I'd get an opinion or two from some really experienced body men. My guess is that they'll tell you you will have cracks all over the place in 6 months if you try to bodywork those panels in.

i have chatted with several V8 guys regarding bonding, as well as other attachment solutions, and most of the guys currently driving their V8's have had no problems with torque induced cracking.

at the same time, just to be safe,i will put a coat of crap paint on her for a month or so and we'll see if there is much flex at the bond points.

now you've got me thinking.... again. LOL

Bill's got a LS6 in his and bonded flares. zero cracks. i tried to emulate his solution.

naw, i think we're cool in this department... =-)

i do apreciate your concern, nonetheless.

cheers!

i'd be most concerned about the areas on the fender right under the targa bar, and the rearmost area where the fg fender is bonded to the car (the vertical seam that is a few inches in front of the rear taillights).

hopefully it works out - it would look sweet bodyworked in!

goddamn roger ur the man holy crap ur allready there

i know uve probably allready posted it but ive toooo many

how much the sheridan rears

p l e a s eee

imust know it would fix all my problems

well nearly