Thanks for the aluminum foil tip on the 6/12 point internal stuff.

I'll try that from now on before cold chisel or Dremel cut off wheel solutions.

So simple!

I should have already know that!

Bad Ninja, Bad, Bad Ninja...



PS. The 911 looks interesting!
Include more pics of it if you can.
It looks as nice as your car...

@technicalninja - Yeah that '74 is going to be real nice. It is Greg's and he has done it all - disassembly, stripping the shell, metal work, body work and paint. The motor is going to be an MFI motor of course. The interior will be next-level greatness too. I will start adding some photos of its progress as my car moves along. Greg is a very talented guy.

Yesterday we started with Greg replacing the distributor belt. Now "they" tell you that you can drift the pin out for the gear at the bottom of the shaft; I call BS on that. We tried for a good 20 minutes and that little sucker would not budge. We ended up drilling it out and that did the trick with no collateral damage. I ordered a new pin from Porsche along with 2 rotors for general principle. So belt replaced and distributor reassembled- save for the pin which is on the way.

We then installed the oil return fitting below the oil filter on the 3.6 - took about 3 minutes- strangely satisfying though.

Then we installed the modified fan shroud "Mickey Mouse" ears and coil bracket with coils. I still have to order the new decals for the coils.

Greg did the modification that allows you to rotate the throttle body downward- that was a bit stressful just because we were cutting the plastic bridges (3) between the upper and lower. Glad to report that was done and now we can rotate the throttle body down about 1" or so to be sure we can clear the engine lid.

Then we pulled out ALL the wiring harnesses for this motor to go into the car. We have 2 PMS harnesses and then the stock 993 car harness that connected to the engine harness and DME (with 22 connectors). We already replaced the engine harness with a factory new harness- that was about $110= best deal ever. In total, It's a whole lot of wires and connectors. We are working to figure out exactly what we need and what can be discarded. That will be a big project.

We also got the PMS throttle cable on the engine- I just need to order the clip that connects it to the throttle body.

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If I may make a suggestion:

Rewire the DME relay socket to use 2 standard Bosch square relays.

Original DME relay wiring diagram:

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Modified to accept two square Bosch relays:

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The reason I suggest this is that the factory DME relay is notorious for failing at the wrong times. It is considered standard procedure to carry a spare because they are only available from the dealer or specialty supply places. If you rewire the harness to use two Bosch square relays, you can get them at FLAPS and there are solid state relays available that almost never fail.

You can also use the round relay sockets the same way. Then you can borrow a relay from the headlights if your DME quits.

I did this on my 964 DME setup. It works great.

Looking good!! Almost there... Removing the ribs on the intake was stressful. I used tin snips for the center rib, since I couldn't get to it with my dremel tool. I was worried it would crack the tubes, but the tubes are pretty thick, so no problem. I also need to do the distributor drive belt. Thanks for sharing that procedure. There is also a nice write up for this on p-car and Pelican. https://p-car.com/diy/diy.html

Thanks Clay and Steve.

Clay, I will share your thoughts with Greg regarding the relay wiring.

@Steve Yeah, we followed the Pelican DIY re the distributor belt. It was a very good step-by-step. I suggest your order a pin for the gear before you tackle the belt. The ignition distributor shaft gear pin part number is: Part #: 930-602-922-00-OEM. I believe I ordered it through Pelican.

Cheers,
Michael

How could anyone estimate the hours, $$ involved in any of these conversions?

It's kinda crazy, really

BTW: looking great and I am sure the finish product will rock

It was really simple.
I purposely did not add up any of the costs so in my head i'm still convinced i did the whole conversion for less than $10k.

How many sane people would put themselves through this -------- you fill in the blanks

That's funny guys. Just the other day when we were working on it I looked at Greg and said, "What the F was I thinking? I had a perfect running 3.2 and decided to go through all of this? Greg laughed and agreed. He then said, "it's going to be bitchin' when finished". I sure hope so!

Bitchin is good

Can I see what those rubber pieces looks like?

Looking great!

Hi @Gint . Yeah, here is a picture of one side, they are identical.

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Didn't do much today. I did "install" the two stupid priced rubbers that the front engine tin fits into so it does not rattle and makes a good seal.

Then we installed the last piece of engine tin, the front (Fan) side- that completes the engine tins and I have to say they look great; Greg does nice work.

Then we began futzing around with the idle control valve that in its stock position sits right on top of the motor and looks like crap. So we are exploring relocating it under the intake or at the very least to the non-throttle side of the throttle body so it is not right in your face. We are going to source to 7/8" OD pipe and see if we can make a pipe that will allow us to move it. It pulls vacuum so a normal rubber hose would likely collapse.

Anyway, that was it for the day. We just kind of enjoyed lunch and then sat in the shade, like old men, and talked.

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Nice air cleaner setup. But where is the Mass Airflow Sensor?

@ClayPerrine - Now that is a great question . The PMS boot which replaces the stock 993 boot has ports for "things". I doubt those are for the MAF sensor. I googled '95 993 3.6 Porsche MAF sensor and I don't think anything like that came with the engine as received. I will have to look into this on Tuesday when Greg and I next meet to work on this. And Clay, thanks for staying tuned in on this swap. I appreciate your expertise.

It isn't something that attaches to the ports for "things".

The MAF sensor goes between the air cleaner and the throttle body. It has to be there for the engine to run.



The factory motronic won't work without it unless you do major modifications to it.

@ClayPerrine OK, that helps a lot. I will find one if we do not have it sitting somewhere. I checked the pictures I have of the engine as purchased and it did not have the MAF on it. I have reached out to the seller to see if it may be sitting around in his shop. Thanks again Clay.

Probably still attached to the air filter assembly. And you don't need the air filter assembly, it won't fit in a 914. The DME harness should have a round plug that connects to it.

If you can't get the MAF, then you can buy one. They are about $200.00.

And you will need to hook the idle air motor in after the MAF.

Great; thank s again Clay.

I attached the air flow sensor to the air cleaner. The MAF and air cleaner is 3.5”. The 3.2 PMS elbow and throttle body is 3”. I’m debating on extending the elbow like Sir Andy did, so I can run the idle control valve hose on top versus the bottom. Plenty of 3” intake stuff at O’Reillys and auto zone to make it work. Regarding the 1” pipe from the 3.2 elbow to the idle control valve, I cut up left over hose from the smog pump and other left over parts to extend the hose. Curious if you have to lay the idle control valve flat. I’ve only seen them horizontal on 3.2 and 3.6 installs.
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Spectre and Home Depot 3” adapters.
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MAF just in front of the air cleaner

Cool, all good stuff. I heard back from the 3.6 seller (not Chris BTW) and he will check his shop for the MAF early this week and get back to me. Hopefully he can find it.

Today we put the distributor shaft gear pin in. You drive it in and it protrudes about 1/8" on either side. Greg used a punch and hit it to make the pin swell in the gear- that took about 1/8" of the excess off and then he ground the remainder. That puppy is not going to come out without drilling it out. We then put the new rotors on and installed the distributor after once again confirming both rotors are properly timed. Then we connected the coil wires and that was a wrap for the ignition.

Then we installed the new throttle cable clip- nice and easy.

Then we installed the new electric thermostat for the oil cooler and secured the lines to the trunk wall with a riv-nut. Nice and tidy. This thermostat will turn the fans on/off automatically. We are also going to wire switch with an LED indicator to override that in the event I want to manually turn them on/off.

Then we pulled out the transaxle to address a output shaft seal leak that we had been unable to completely stop. We installed a speedi-sleeve (Stoddard) on the output shaft and then a new seal on the transaxle and reassembled. It feels like it should not leak again- fingers crossed. Then I cleaned up the transaxle so it will be ready to install once we get the crankshaft ignition sensor bracket that we realized we were missing. Order that from Gaudin and hope to have it by the weekend. The we can install that and then install the transaxle.

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Looking good! Why does your transmission look so nice?

Hi Andy, @Krieger - Thanks; it's a coating Mike Lesniak (Dr. Evil) applied when he rebuilt it back in approx. 2016. All we did was spray it with brake clean, lightly brush and blow it off.

Michael, all I can say is outstanding as always. The level of finish on your car is amazing and I hope all of this on this work to move from the 3.2 to the 3.6 is going to make you very happy.

Best Bob B Burton

Thanks Bob @burton73 I sure hope so. I was hoping to get the transaxle installed on the motor, but we discovered we were missing the bracket that holds the crank position sensor...always something. I am also tracking down the MAF and hope the seller can find it by the weekend. A new MAF is a few hundred dollars.

The next time we are at Greg's I want to give the engine compartment a quick detail so it is ready to accept the motor. Then we will do the front trunk as it is pretty dirty too. I think I can install the front bumper and valance at this point too.

Thank you sir!

Got a couple hours in yesterday. We were able to get the front valance and bumper back on the car. Easy peasy, but for me it was a big step to getting her back on the road. I also spent some time cleaning the engine compartment. I wiped it down with brake clean. The next time we are at Greg's I will ask my brother to touch up a couple small scratches in the engine compartment and then follow that with a coat of wax.

This morning we are headed off to pick up my MAF meter.

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And just for a change of pace, here is what my car is sharing Greg's shop with. Pictures posted with Greg's permission.

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For engine compartment, wheel wells, underbody "wax" I use Poor Boys Wheel Sealant.

https://poorboysworld.com/wheel-sealant.html

This is designed to work as almost a "Teflon" type coating.

It doesn't really make stuff glossy. It's NOT a wax.

DO NOT USE on semi-flat of flat paint surfaces. They will NEVER be "right" again.

2 years down the road you can use air pressure to blow the dirt off.

Nothing STICKS at all...

Smells like bubblegum!

Easy to apply.

I've not found anything else that get close to the lifespan of this stuff.

A tub lasts me 5+ years

If you want to put anything on the paint don't use this stuff.

If you want nothing to ever stick this is the BOMB!

Thanks for the pictures of the 911.
Closeups are every bit a gorgeous as I expected it would be.

Workmanship look great.

She is going to be a monster for sure

Cool 911 with MFI. Love the color!

I will pass that along to Greg Clay. @ClayPerrine I was wondering if anyone would catch the MFI manifold.

Picked up my MAF sensor yesterday. Yay! Thanks again for spotting that missing part Clay.

Hoping my order from Gaudin Porsche arrives tomorrow so we can work on that Wednesday. I would love to get the transaxle back with the engine.

Yesterday was a great progress day and we had a lot of fun in the process.

Greg installed the new crank position sensor with the new mounting bracket. Fits nice and looks proper too.

Then we installed the MAF sensor, it fits nicely, but I need to order a couple new clamps from RM European to wrap that up.

While Greg ran to the dentist I took the opportunity to clean the engine compartment for the eventual motor installation. It was not really bad, but it cleaned up nicely. Now, maybe in a couple weeks the motor will be in its new home.

While cleaning the engine compartment I remembered I still had the 3rd brake light flasher module installed that was living in the engine relay board area. I had turned it off about a year ago because Greg's wife saw it flashing when I applied the brakes and said, "Oh, that's annoying". I looked at it and realized she was 100% correct. I had originally bought a flasher module that would flash the 3rd brake light 1-2 times when the brakes were applied and then would not flash every time you applied the brakes if you were sitting in stop/go traffic as that would be really annoying. That module, sadly, was lost and another installed when my car was first reassembled. It flashed the 3rd brake light 5 times per application and did not have a stop/go traffic repeat delay. So now that the engine was out it was the perfect time to remove that module entirely- we did.

Then we put the transaxle back where it belongs - with the engine. We replaced the little plastic bits on the clutch fork arm, greased the throw out bearing and it all went together nicely. I was really pleased to see that happen as it means we really are getting close to getting them back in the car.

Then for a break in the action, Greg had 2 new 911 door-check pins sitting on his counter. He told me my pins, (plain looking steel with a hole for a pin to secure them) were loose and that was why my doors "clicked" when I opened and closed them. The new 911 pins were installed and my doors are nice and quiet when opening and closing. Sometimes it's the little stuff.

My headlight dimmer reostat was not working properly; it was more of an on/off situation. I sourced another early headlight switch and we swapped the old one out and the new one in and now everything works as new. It's not like I dim my dash lights, but it bugged me that the switch was not functioning properly.

Next Greg tackled the wiring for my oil cooler fans. We previously installed the Setbrab in-line thermostat for the fans. I wanted the fans to operate automatically - let's face it I am old and don't want to forget having to turn them on when the oil gets hot. But, I also wanted a manual switch to turn them on too. So we repurposed my rear window defroster switch, (the rear defroster did not work anyway) for that function. Greg is a terrific electrician technician (of course) and made this look simple aside from the contortionist positions required to get up under the dash as he is 6'3".

Our next tasks will be to sort the engine vacuum lines and hopefully start getting the electrical for the engine figured out so we can get the DME mounted in the car and get the wiring from the dash to the engine done. We also still have to make the idle control valve pipe so we can mount that where we want instead of the stock 993 location.

My brother and I are planning on attending the Diablo Region Wash 'n Shine at the Danville Livery (Sycamore and San Ramon Valley Blvd.) on Monday (Holiday). Greg has entered his Willow Green 914-6 GT. If you have not seen that beauty in person- I recommend trying to make it. It is always a well attended function. Now, I mention that event, as I really hope someone with a '95 993 in stock form is there too. We need to look and take pictures to sort my stuff. So I have my fingers crossed!

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Yesterday was a great progress day and we had a lot of fun in the process.

Greg installed the new crank position sensor with the new mounting bracket. Fits nice and looks proper too.

Then we installed the MAF sensor, it fits nicely, but I need to order a couple new clamps from RM European to wrap that up.

While Greg ran to the dentist I took the opportunity to clean the engine compartment for the eventual motor installation. It was not really bad, but it cleaned up nicely. Now, maybe in a couple weeks the motor will be in its new home.

While cleaning the engine compartment I remembered I still had the 3rd brake light flasher module installed that was living in the engine relay board area. I had turned it off about a year ago because Greg's wife saw it flashing when I applied the brakes and said, "Oh, that's annoying". I looked at it and realized she was 100% correct. I had originally bought a flasher module that would flash the 3rd brake light 1-2 times when the brakes were applied and then would not flash every time you applied the brakes if you were sitting in stop/go traffic as that would be really annoying. That module, sadly, was lost and another installed when my car was first reassembled. It flashed the 3rd brake light 5 times per application and did not have a stop/go traffic repeat delay. So now that the engine was out it was the perfect time to remove that module entirely- we did.

Then we put the transaxle back where it belongs - with the engine. We replaced the little plastic bits on the clutch fork arm, greased the throw out bearing and it all went together nicely. I was really pleased to see that happen as it means we really are getting close to getting them back in the car.

Then for a break in the action, Greg had 2 new 911 door-check pins sitting on his counter. He told me my pins, (plain looking steel with a hole for a pin to secure them) were loose and that was why my doors "clicked" when I opened and closed them. The new 911 pins were installed and my doors are nice and quiet when opening and closing. Sometimes it's the little stuff.

My headlight dimmer reostat was not working properly; it was more of an on/off situation. I sourced another early headlight switch and we swapped the old one out and the new one in and now everything works as new. It's not like I dim my dash lights, but it bugged me that the switch was not functioning properly.

Next Greg tackled the wiring for my oil cooler fans. We previously installed the Setbrab in-line thermostat for the fans. I wanted the fans to operate automatically - let's face it I am old and don't want to forget having to turn them on when the oil gets hot. But, I also wanted a manual switch to turn them on too. So we repurposed my rear window defroster switch, (the rear defroster did not work anyway) for that function. Greg is a terrific electrician technician (of course) and made this look simple aside from the contortionist positions required to get up under the dash as he is 6'3".

Our next tasks will be to sort the engine vacuum lines and hopefully start getting the electrical for the engine figured out so we can get the DME mounted in the car and get the wiring from the dash to the engine done. We also still have to make the idle control valve pipe so we can mount that where we want instead of the stock 993 location.

My brother and I are planning on attending the Diablo Region Wash 'n Shine at the Danville Livery (Sycamore and San Ramon Valley Blvd.) on Monday (Holiday). Greg has entered his Willow Green 914-6 GT. If you have not seen that beauty in person- I recommend trying to make it. It is always a well attended function. Now, I mention that event, as I really hope someone with a '95 993 in stock form is there too. We need to look and take pictures to sort my stuff. So I have my fingers crossed!

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If you notice that little square black module (above) with the 3 wires, that is the 3rd brake light flasher we removed.

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Looking good!!

That's a clean machine!

Thanks Steve and Chris; I am getting pretty excited.

Here are a couple photos my brother took yesterday while we worked.

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I slot Cairo's car in the "Museum Piece" bracket.

Show only, no use application.

It REALLY looks too nice to drive!

I'd have that insured through Hagerty's for a significant valuation.

After the 3.6 is done 200K is not out of the question IMO.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-pors...build-with-3-6/

The 901 looks tiny in comparison to the monster 3.6

@technicalninja - Thanks for the extreme compliment; however, I actually drive this car regularly. It is not a trailer or garage queen. It was purpose built and I will continue to drive it as much as possible. We have put just under 10K miles on it since it returned to the road in August of '20.

You are going to have to redo the plumbing for the fuel system. On the 3.6, the fuel inlet is on one side of the motor, and the outlet is on the other side. The 914 fuel lines are on the same side of the motor.

So you either have to move the fuel return line to the left side of the the chassis, or rework the fuel plumbing on the engine to bring the return line back over to the passenger side.


Good Luck.

OK - one more thing to add to the list; good to know. Thank you Clay for keeping an eye on this so hopefully we avoid some of the pitfalls.

When I did my 964 motor, I rerouted the fuel lines on top of the engine so they both came out on the passenger side to match the existing fuel lines in the chassis. I would suggest that you do something like that. Most 964/993 engines need the fuel lines replaced anyway due to them becoming brittle with age.

Aye, i forgot about that. I went with the stock location for the lines (Stainless from Tangerine) and then extended the supply line across the rear trunk wall (above the engine) to the driver side using metal tubing similar to the Tangerine lines.

Kinda hard to explain, let me see if i can find any pics.