The engine is in the car. It actually slipped right in without much bother. Greg had to loosen the engine tin on passenger side to get her in. We slipped the 993 chassis harness that connects the engine to the chassis in through the firewall in the same spot as the 3.2 harness entered and it fits nicely. Then hooked up both axles just because they were in the way and torqued them properly. Then Greg installed the breather hose from the oil tank filler to the engine.

The only concession I had to make to fit the air intake/MAF/filter where we wanted it to live was Greg had to remove the trunk torsion bars, (those puppies were under some serious tension). I will go with 2 hydraulic shocks to handle the trunk lid. I checked out Greg's 914-6 to see how they operate and they are nice. Removal of those 2 rods opened up enough space that the intake fits nicely and runs along the trunk bulkhead. We also removed the complete relay board assemble as we no longer needed that and it took up some serious space. I was actually bummed about that as I really like Auto Atlanta's (George's) new relay board cover and wanted to see that in the engine bay.

Overall, a really satisfying day; I am so so happy to see that engine in place. It's amazing how smoothly things go when you are working with a guy like Greg who knows what he is doing, has the tools to do it, and wants it to look as clean and tidy as possible.

Oh, we did de-boss the intake a bit to clean it up. Removed 3 large mounting tabs which held a large mounting bracket for some electrical connectors. Those connectors will live comfortably below the intake.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Nice job . You must be super happy.what a journey this car has had . I remember seeing it at Kent’s. They’re never finished. Looks tidy!

Looks great!! I removed my torsion bars when I installed the 3.2 back in 2000. I am surprised you got the 3.2 in there with them installed. Mine will probably be end of July. Going on vacation for a couple of weeks.

Keep your eyes on that contact area of the cone air filter and fuel-rail end; these cotton/alum screen filters are vulnerable to penetration and deforming when using in tight engine bays. Maybe a soft piece of foam-rubber there ¿
If your feeling creative; an isolation housing can be crafted>>just make sure enough air gets to it.
Click to view attachment

and soon:

Isolation housing on my shop truck; made from plastic and is ducted into front grill>>fed with cold air. Cold air always better than (ambient) hot engine bay air...but just under the 914 grill=not bad at all !
Click to view attachment

@Maltese Falcon

Yeah, that was our thought when noodling where it should live. Also, we will be adding a piece of rubber pipe to move the filter about 4" further out for more clearance. I just need to find that rubber pipe now.... I believe it is a 3 3/8" ID that we need.

Great news, which model shoe horn did you guys use?

The 3.6 looks awesome in there. I had to remove the torson bars for the 3.2 intake and fire suppression install. I use a KD tool telescoping prop for the rear lid. I didn't want to cut the seal for the struts. Since the front trunk is wet with the oil cooler and GT headlight kit. Needed a dry place for my clothes on long trips. Good luck with the rest of the install.

Thanks guys; I appreciate the support.

Yesterday was a busy day, but nothing that really photographs well. We got the fuel regulator side of the fuel rails connected but I need to get some proper clamps to complete that- I may have some in my parts stash. Sorry no photos. Please note the bottom of the engine has not really been cleaned as it pretty much lived on my garage floor or Greg's lift table prior to install. All that dirtiness is cosmoline. Once we get everything sorted, I will get to work cleaning it so it looks nicer- although part of me says, "If it has been on the engine since '95, protecting the case, why remove it?" It comes off easy enough as just using a plastic scraper or a finger nail removes it easily.

Then we measured several times for the intake pipe extension to move the filter cone about 5" closer to the drivers side of the car for better overall clearance. We did not install it after making the "pipe" we needed. But when we install it next time, it should look very clean as this will allow us to remove one adapter piece and 2 clamps. Stay tuned for that.

Then we figured out the oil inlet to the engine with Greg taking a stock 911 oil pipe and cutting/modifying it, (think hammer and block of wood ) and welding a nice fitting on the end to connect up to the thermostat oil line. I think Greg did an amazing job; it is tucked up perfectly where we wanted it so it does not interfere with anything and is in a well protected space.

We worked on a return oil line to the engine but in the end did not like the looks of it. So back to the drawing board on that - the final piece of the oil line puzzle. We want it to be a metal pipe coming from the engine, about 7" long and turning 90 degrees and terminating about 4" past the radius. It is a really tight space when you test fit the heat exchanger and our first attempt, though it certainly would have worked, just did not look like we envisioned. We need a pipe bender with a tight radius to make that happen. We shall continue to "noodle" on that.

The oil return line you see connected in the 2nd picture from the top, (with the hose clamp around it) is not the finished product. We just were connecting it to our initial engine return line for a length test. So no worries- the final one will be neat and the line will not have any radical bends in it.

Hopefully we will be back at it on Wednesday or Thursday. Cheers, Michael

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Here's the hard line i used:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...st&p=915814

I don't remember who made it (maybe PMS?), it was in the box of parts that came with the engine.

We will be back at it on Wednesday. I told Greg I could not make it Thursday as I wanted to be home in time for the debate! I think that may be entertaining.

I used a PMS setup but was not pleased with the hard line routing. Ended up cutting it apart and welding it up where it should have been in the first place. Cheap and simple and done

Truth be told... I have not been impressed with PMS parts and certainly not their customer support which is woefully lacking. Given what they charge for parts, there is no excuse for that.

For what it's worth, i feel the same way.

Don't get me wrong, i'm glad they are making parts available for our cars but once you spent the money with them, you cease to exist until your next order.

Click to view attachment

More than a couple of us are in this boat.

OK, I sourced the pipe I need, 7/8" 0.065 wall mild steel (thanks Chris Baker for the referral to McMaster Carr. Then, Chris said he has a tubing bender that make the bend we need. Hopefully that pipe arrives at Chris' tomorrow or Wednesday. Then as soon as Chris is available my brother and I will buzz over to The Red Barn for nice little bend and to stretch the legs of his new (to him) 911 Turbo S Coupe. Where would I be without the assistance of guys like Greg, Chris, Clay, Steve, HB, my brother and a host of others? It takes a car community to do this stuff.

Making decent progress. Greg has the fuel lines all completed except for the line from the fuel filter. We had to order a new fitting for that.

Greg got the complete intake system finished and it fits really nicely right where we wanted it.

Then we got the passenger side heat exchanger installed along with the clutch cable connected. We are waiting on the one oil line that goes from the oil tank to the engine. Tomorrow my brother and I will take a ride to The Red Barn where Chris is going to bend me some pipe for that.

Then we got the new rear trunk "shocks" installed. Thanks to Craig at Camp914 for those beauties. They work like a charm and look quite nice too.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Couple gratuitous '74 911 shots and my car sitting and waiting until our next day. That 911 is just amazing; the color is off the hook! Greg knows what he is doing and that is for sure.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I'd hate to see that engine get ruined by the K&N filter - just say'n

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/k...-or-bad.164018/

All that will do is possibly require the MAF to be cleaned more often.

He's NOT over oiled and I believe there is NOTHING paper based that could fit there.

Now, I personally prefer large surface area paper-based filters, but that car does not have room for one. I want my filter box to have a high-pressure cold air intake as well.
The 914 is LOUSY for high pressure cold air back there.
Really needs a snorkel that extends above the roof line and that would look like ASS...

He's not going to be off roading that car so the level of silica between paper and cotton gauze will be very hard to measure.

That MAF looks stupid simple to clean as well.

@Cairo94507 The foam "pre-covers" do help enough on particulates to be worth installing. Might look into one.
And, if you're not automatically cleaning that MAF every couple of years regardless of air filter type you should be BITCH-SLAPPED!

Having a properly oiled K&N is far, far better than nothing at all...

Pre filter is a must. K&N filters are actually very poor at filtering. We did testing some 20 years ago at a company I worked at that showed more wear than its paper counterparts

Maybe somebody with a 3D printer can design an air filter box that fits on the left side runners and would attach to the MAF sensor. Make it use a stock 993 filter element for ease of parts supply.

Big open sided with a rain shield lapping over on top.

I'm positive that my oldest, Bryan can do exactly that!

Only problem is what to make it out of.

Most 3D printer stock cannot handle 200 degrees.

I believe once you find a filament that can withstand 250 it's special and the 3D printer that is able to run it is fairly expensive.

I will ask Byran what he would do next time he's here.

@ClayPerrine @SirAndy This is IMPORTANT!
What do you think the maximum temperature that the box might see putting it where you want?
I think it will be 5-10 minutes of heat soak after you've driven hard.
I think 250 would be COMMON directly above the engine.
Now, if you also incorporated an "after cool" fan that ran above a specific temp it might lower the max box temp a significant amount.
It doesn't take much airflow to have a major effect on cooling...

Spoke with my son.

Nylon carbon fiber can withstand UP to 300 degrees F.

A decent sized printer will set you back 2K+.

The filament is expensive but not horribly expensive.

Approximately $60/lb.

So, not un-doable.

You'd want to 3D scan a 993 housing and modify from that point.

Text back from Bryan...

"This would run in my printer, but I need hardened steel nozzle tips and a new extruder.
Nozzles are in the range of $10-50 depending on brand, sizing... And a new extruder is around 40-60. The nozzles are required, and the extruder is to replace my current one once I run this through. It's a rough material to print with, so it will literally eat through the drive wheels, ptfe tubing, and the nozzles as it runs. Expensive filament that is very harsh on drive components. We used some carbon fiber filament on the rocket, it worked well. We didn't get it up to 300 but it was very strong.

We printed it with the schools cr10 unit, which is just a large version of my printer.

What are you wanting printed?"


Give me an approximate size and I'll check if his machine is big enough...

Looking at that space between the engine and the driver's side of car I'd toss the idea of 993 copy and put the largest paper filter I could fit in that space with the filter "standing on edge" It looks like 12-14" tall and 22-24" long.

Imagine a paint roller pan turned on edge with the MAF entrance in the deep end with an outer cover with big louvers.

That would be a BIG ASS filter!

You could probably make a port to scavenge Sir Andy's high tech blow off bottle.

And for cars, not at the level of Cairo's. an outer NACA duct in the rear fender feeding into the outer housing...

A little like the Boxster/Cayman.

Now you have cool high-pressure air.

Having cool air above ambient pressure is ALWAYS worth power!

@technicalninja - Once we get her running and sorted, I would definitely love to get a better air filter system on the engine. But, as you know, one foot in front of the other.

Yesterday, my brother and I cruised over to Petaluma to meet with Chris, Mark, Martin, Steve and Robert at The Red Barn. Chris is just the best and is always willing to help us out. Martin demonstrated his skills by bending the pipe we will use for the oil return line from the oil tank to the engine, perfectly. We got 3' of 7/8" 0.065 walled mild steel and Martin put a nice 2" radius 90 degree bend on both ends about 10" from the end to the center of the radius. That should give us 2 pieces in case we screw up one.

Once that was done we all went to lunch with the exception of Martin and Robert who had to scoot. After lunch Bobby and I spent 3 hours in traffic for what should have been a 2 hour 10 minute trip. I swear even getting close to a holiday brings all of the fools out on the freeways.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I bought the PMS 914-6 Oil tank to 993 kit. https://patrickmotorsports.com/collections/...01107993an16pms
They also make a fuel line kit with all the fittings and hoses. Expensive but I don’t have the talent or time to source this stuff myself or the tools and talent to make the stuff myself. Looking forward to your completed project. Very cool mods!!

I had this kit: https://patrickmotorsports.com/collections/...01107710an12pms

and was not pleased with the hard line, a couple cuts here and there and now fits like a glove. Steel tubing

When/if you get around to the intake upgrades we have a printer here at our shop that will run CF/Nylon.
Does it really need to be good to 200F though? You're not pulling 200F air into the motor?

My Squareback has a CF/Nylon oil filler to fit under the decklid, but the air filter plumbing is PVC with a PLA filter housing. (That's the cheap plastic that everyone and their aunt uses)

The air temp when running is not the issue, it's the heat soak after you shut off the engine that can see temps well above 200.

Got it, I will say I have not had any issue with my "plain" air intake and heat soak up here in the northern CA Central Valley even after several years.
But we have the fancy printer available, happy to help out some fellow teeners.

@nogoodwithusernames - That is a very generous offer and I will keep you in mind when the time comes. That is some screen name BTW.

Had a productive day today. Fuel system is done. Oil lines are done. Throttle cable connected and working fine. Driver's heat exchanger on along with muffler. When it hit 95 degrees in the garage we stopped.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

That looks great! Any target date for the inital start up?

Looks great! Is that sweat running down the trailing arm?

Excellent work guys!

@tygaboy No real target date. Next time I go to Greg's we will fill her with oil and gas. Button up the cooling/blower hoses and heat exchanger flappers, connect the O2 sensor and look at the wiring under the dash for some connections we need to make.

Then we will give everything a once over and maybe turn the key and see if everything has power. We do not want to rush trying to start her up.

East Coaster - Could be...

Wow!! Great job!! I read on Pelican that due to the hydraulic lifters, you should disconnect the ignition and get the oil pressure up first twice before starting it to fill the hydraulic lifters.

@Steve - Thanks buddy; shall do.

I saw the plug in your transmission for the speedo drive. What are you doing for a speedo?


Clay

You're getting really close!

95 is too hot to be working, good on you guys for calling it a day.

@ClayPerrine - Hi Clay, I swapped over to a GPS based speedo when we first built the car. Works flawlessly and best of all no mechanical (cable) drive or leaks. I also did a later 911 electric speedo with the extra digit so I kept my cars mileage accurate.

95 is a good day to work on a car.

110 is too hot.

But y'all aren't in Texas, so I forgive you for being wimps.

LOVE this thread

Who needs Netflix

O

That’s right, you’re not from Texas…

Yesterday we put 10 quarts of oil in. We guesstimate the system might hold 12-13 quarts total. But 10 should be good to get her started. We added fuel to the tank and then turned the key on to check for leaks. The fuel pump is under the gas tank and it immediately pumped gas to the motor and we could hear it returning gas to the tank via the return line. No leaks- everything nice and dry so I put the inspection plate back on that covers the steering rack.

I added 1/2 a quart of Valvoline gear oil to top off the transaxle. We then installed the rear shift rod and checked we have all 5 gears and reverse.

Then we went to install the o2 sensor in the heat exchanger bung. I went to remove the plug in the bung and it did not go well. Pulled all the threads off the plug as it came out. We had to order a tap to clean/cut the threads in the heat exchanger bung... I hate when that happens. So we set the o2 sensor aside and moved on to other stuff.

We ran 2 new lines from the front of the car to the engine bay for the charcoal canister connection. When my 3.2 was installed we did not need the charcoal canister so the lines were terminated in the front fender. Now, apparently, we need the canister hooked up. We ran some 1/2" lines down the driver's side long, next to the hard oil lines for the front cooler and then reinstalled the rocker cover. We had to order some different black hose for the connections so we ordered that.

Finally, to end the day, Greg called Patrick Motorsports to get some answers regarding their wire harness kits. After spending some time on the phone with them, Greg was satisfied with what we have to do next. That wiring will hopefully get sorted next time.

Oh yeah, still on the hunt for the correct heater hose in 50mm size. We have the correct size in the cardboard stuff but that does not age well at all. The stuff we are chasing has a black plastic coating on it, looks really nice and more importantly, allows you to clean it without any damage to the hose. We have an "expert in the field" working on finding that. We have it in the 750mm length but we really want it to be about 1000mm so we can have a one piece pipe from the Mickey Mouse ears to the heater flapper valve. Hopefully we get that stuff soon.

PS- Yeah, I will clean the bottom of the engine. That is all Cosmoline; it actually flakes off pretty easy with just a plastic scraper - Brake Clean with a medium stiff brush gets the tougher stuff right off.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment