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michelko
por 15ed
michelko
nother
michelko
driving-girl.gif
michelko
last one have a nice weekend

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CptTripps
Well done sir....wanna come to this side of the pond and work on my next one???
michelko
QUOTE (CptTripps @ Jul 16 2005, 07:11 AM)
Well done sir....wanna come to this side of the pond and work on my next one???

Sure, will be looking for the next projekt if i ever get this one ready laugh.gif

I am doing now that part that you have done weeks ago.

look:

found a big bondo patch under 4 layers of paint and filler.

decided to keep this.
michelko
nother angle
michelko
and another little project:

the restored headlights. Sandblasted and painted.

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sean_v8_914
!!! icon_bump.gif
CptTripps
I wish I'd spent more time with the body work...well, I spent a lot of time, but I didn't know what I was doing. Particularly on that patch of bondo you found. that's the one area I REALLY wish I'd done a better job.

Looking great man...
Root_Werks
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michelko
spend nearly the whole day to grind down to bare metal. I think there was abóut 3-4mm Bondo filler and paint on the quarter. don´t know why confused24.gif

As shown in the pics the panel is nice and straight. The car lost some kilo´s today.
michelko
nother view
michelko
see what i mean?
michelko
I am also eliminating the side markers
michelko
i am thinking of using por15 as first coat on the quarter panel. then tie coat primer then filler and paint. any sugestions?

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SpecialK
As much as I like POR 15 (and I've got it damn near everywhere), I'd be a little leery about using it under my paint job. I'm planning on laying down a coat of epoxy primer:

House of Kolor (copied from their website)

KWIKURE EPOXY PRIMER (KP21)
KP21 is a 2.1 VOC hi-solids catalyzed Epoxy Primer that meets all current air quality regulations. It is designed to be the first primer applied to bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass, magnesium and galvanized surfaces. It's strong adhesion, hi-build, excellent durability, and corrosion resistance make it the logical choice for the base of a long lasting paint job.


For the inside of the wheel wells and floor pan, I think POR is a good choice for it's durability.
michelko
QUOTE (Special_K @ Jul 23 2005, 07:59 AM)
As much as I like POR 15 (and I've got it damn near everywhere), I'd be a little leery about using it under my paint job. I'm planning on laying down a coat of epoxy primer:

House of Kolor (copied from their website)

KWIKURE EPOXY PRIMER (KP21)
KP21 is a 2.1 VOC hi-solids catalyzed Epoxy Primer that meets all current air quality regulations. It is designed to be the first primer applied to bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass, magnesium and galvanized surfaces. It's strong adhesion, hi-build, excellent durability, and corrosion resistance make it the logical choice for the base of a long lasting paint job.


For the inside of the wheel wells and floor pan, I think POR is a good choice for it's durability.

yes, epoxy base primer was the other thought. Not sure what is better under paint confused24.gif

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SpecialK
I'm planning to use House of Kolor products for the paint job on my '73 just because of the results my friend got on his '67 Camero wub.gif . PPG and other brands are probably just as good, but you wouldn't want to mix and match primers and paints from different companys, i.e. - POR under PPG primer, topcoated with House of Kolor base coat (or that's what I've been told).

You've done such a beautiful job of getting your car solid, you're definitely going to want to have the paint job last as well. beerchug.gif
michelko
oh my god, grinding, grinding, grinding, sanding etc. huh.gif
don´t want no more wacko.gif

i have the right rear quarter ready, think so.
Stripped to bare metal. let the painting begin w00t.gif
michelko
found a little rust hole. can you see it?
michelko
nother
michelko
stromberg.gif forgot to fab the little missing piece. Now it realy hard to get it welded in
michelko
the part
michelko
nother view
its amazing what you can do with some sheet metal and a hammer
michelko
welded in, not my best welding, but it should be good enough for that hidden place. Some grinding and it should be fine
michelko
nother view
michelko
and here the realy nice parts. sandblasted painted reasambled front light. with new reflector
michelko
#2
michelko
last one

have a nice weekend

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SpecialK
QUOTE (michelko @ Jul 31 2005, 06:49 AM)
nother view
its amazing what you can do with some sheet metal and a hammer

"...its amazing what you can do with some sheet metal and a hammer."

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michelko
So guy´s
i decided for the por 15 way. Grind down the panel to bare metal (exept the great ding), wash it with marin clean, prep it with metal ready, paint some por 15. So far so good. then tie coat primer, then bondo the little scratches and dings, sand all smooth, shoot filler, again sanding/filling, last but not least the blue paint.

This is the plan , let´s see how it works.

the first four steps i did today, see the pics.

#1 after metall ready
michelko
#2
michelko
#3
michelko
#4
michelko
the next ones with the por15 on
the difference in the look is realy amacing
#5
michelko
#6
michelko
#7
michelko
#8
michelko
#9
michelko
#10

till now i am realy sattisfied with the result.

can´t wait to go further.

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SirAndy
QUOTE (michelko @ Jul 31 2005, 05:44 AM)
found a little rust hole. can you see it?

yes, you have to remove the hard foam filler that's sitting inside the cavity (from underneath) and clean it all out really good and use lots of "Metal Ready" in there.

that's a very common rust spot on those cars. the seam sealer around the foam cracks after a few years of road use and allows water to seep in.
the foam acts like a spunge and keeps the water in there until it has eaten it's way through the metal ...

icon8.gif Andy
michelko
QUOTE (SirAndy @ Aug 6 2005, 11:02 AM)
QUOTE (michelko @ Jul 31 2005, 05:44 AM)
found a little rust hole. can you see it?

yes, you have to remove the hard foam filler that's sitting inside the cavity (from underneath) and clean it all out really good and use lots of "Metal Ready" in there.

that's a very common rust spot on those cars. the seam sealer around the foam cracks after a few years of road use and allows water to seep in.
the foam acts like a spunge and keeps the water in there until it has eaten it's way through the metal ...

icon8.gif Andy

so you (mean I ) can access that foam from the wheel well?



Gruss aus der alten Heimat smilie_flagge6.gif
SirAndy
QUOTE (michelko @ Aug 6 2005, 12:36 PM)
so you (mean I ) can access that foam from the wheel well?
Gruss aus der alten Heimat smilie_flagge6.gif

yes, from inside the wheel well. you'll see that the cavity is filled with "something" and has seam-sealer around it (might have undercoating over it) ...

once you start "digging" into it, you'll see it's the same yellowish foam they used in so many other places on our little cars.

you have to get it all out and clean it up really well. if it's already rusted through the top, i wouldn't be surprised if it also ate through into the rear trunk and behind the taillights (on the side) ...

Viel Spaß beim Restaurieren!
smilie_flagge6.gif Andy
michelko
Hi everybody, here is some update on the project.

Like sirandy mentioned, i scraped out the foam. Nearly impossible from wheel well. "Fortunately" dry.gif there was an hole in the fender, so i could use this as a window to access the schitty foam. found some nice rust under it.
Sorry no pic of it.

Metallreadyied the hell out of it and then put some por 15 over.

After that i shot a coat of tie coat primer on it
michelko
nother
michelko
next step:

filling the little dings with bondo an sanding it

some more to go , but looks nice again
michelko
nother
michelko
last one

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CptTripps
Unsolicited Advice: MAKE SURE you get this section PERFECT. I didn't, and I've been mad at myself ever since.

Don't be afraid to go back down to metal again to get it right. I thought "I'm too far at this point to go back" before I painted, and afterwards, I've been kicking myself for NOT going back and fixing it.

Looking great man!
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