Pretty much sums it up...

Rear firewall is being rebuilt. I curved it so it looks better and the seal will sit correctly. Basic hammer and anvil work. I might be able to put the factory latch back in too. Least of my worries. I welded dutchmen next to the plastic targa top holders. One of each mounting nuts got cut off int the process. Now I need to drill and tap.

I cut the bottom out of the trunk too. Just up to the cross member. I'm going to make a dropped removable panel. Dropped so I can fit the methanol tank and because there is 4-5" of space from the original trunk to the tranny. I may have to box in the exhaust a little. I tried 2 exhaust manifolds so far. I'm waiting on a third to arrive for mock up.

I "frenched" the coolant tank into the new firewall. The top is hammer rolled over a dolly. The placemant was coordinated with the intercooler... Next post

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The intercooler was a challenge. I went back to the stock intake manifold and managed to wedge the intercooler into place. I have 1/4" clearance from the engine and from the side wall. I used a reducing 45 from the TB and a reducing 90 that is rotated 45 deg under the coolant tank. It all fits! This will plump to the turbo outlet with the bypass valve.

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Still not exactly sure why you had to raise the firewall so much. Is it because of the exhaust?

Anyways, Lots of work done! Awesome stuff!

Valve cover, Water temp sensor, water outlet manifold, exhaust... Those are the reasons for the firewall movement. I just incorporated the roll cage bracing as the corner. It was the best place to make the transition. It had to come back almost to the bar on the cage. With the extra space, I installed the coolant tank and the remaining space will be: Intercooler piping, Diverter valve, crankcase evacuation system, heater plumbing. I may put more in there if it fits. The crankcase evac system will be done with 5/8" aluminum tubing. The heater piping will be 3/4" aluminum tubing. I also have to squeeze the turbo oil and water lines in this space. It will get crowded! The vertical panel will be removable for access to all the stuff. The Meth tank, pump, filter will go in the recessed area (lower cut out). The meth injector and solenoid will be on the intake manifold somewhere. Overall the engine compartment will be clustered with various things...

Plumbing, more plumbing... Got most of it licked! The pressure piping is red. I have a recirc valve plumbed into the turbo inlet. The recirc valve can also be a BOV but the ECU likes the missing air back. The cold air intake had to go in the fender. no room for the MAF, air cleaner and bends without hitting the turbo. I am leaving the hold in the side wall open to help draw air through the NACA. I built a inner fender liner out of aluminum to seal the chamber and keep road debris out...
I bought an 18" brake from HF and bent up an aluminum turbo shroud. Added a few knockouts for externals and done!

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Here you can see some of the misc plumbing behind the engine... Intercooler, 2 heater lines, aluminum crank case vecuum, fuel supply... I dropped the floor 4" too...

OUTSTANDING! I love the intake box in the fender. May have to steal that idea. Twice (one for each fender) on mine

(1 each) long silicone 90, (1 each) aluminum 120 and (1 each) air cleaner.

It took 2-3 weeks of deciding before I cut the hole. If I didn't have the MAF, I think I could have squeezed it into the engine bay. I did not want a short 90 before and after the MAF. Since I already had it cut for the NACA, it seemed like the best solution. When done, you can see the filter through the NACA duct. I used thick copper wire to make a wire frame template of the inner fender. Worked out great!

Mike, did you talkto 034 about doing mafless tune? the later ecu like you have can support it..

ROFL. I'm headded to chump with a V8 914, I ain't got budget for all that fancy stuff. Tractor Supply plumbing department here I come!

This is tuned for the 3" MAF housing. I wanted to keep the stock sensors (except the 2nd O2). the tune keeps the DBW and eliminates all smog junk. I could have done a stand alone system, maybe cheaper... I wanted the stock driveability the MAF has. The DBW is just because it's cool. After it's driving, I will take it back to 034 for fine tuning. I'm running a WB O2 sensor with a scaled voltage converter to trick the factory ECU input. This should give a WB 0-1V output signal to the NB 0-1V input.

If they gave you a standard gt28rs file with 3" maf for an open exhaust I will bet you wont need to retune... The factory sensors will adjust from there. You know Im on a 2x larger turbo than my tune and I just have my boost cut in half. Roughly the same power but the same drivability as before... These modern ecu's are just awesome..

You know what they say, measure 254 times, cut once

Nice work!

I tried every combination of fittings I had before I bit the bullet. It's just too crowded on that side for the air path. I may have to clock the MAF for best results as well... This way I have 6" of straight pipe before and 4" after the MAF. I also wanted the MAF to be close to the turbo. The recirc valve needed to be close too.

I got started of some of the ECU wiring today also. I'm sure glad I documented it as well as I did. I still found some connectors without labels. lucky for me, they only plug into sensors and weren't a big deal.n I do need a multi conductor cable to go from the engine to the dash cluster. This will allow all the sensors and stuff to connect to the display.

Here's a little teaser pic. I mounted the steering column in place. I cut apart a 914 column to get the mounting bracket and welded it in place of the Passat bracket. This column is about 1.5 inches longer at the U joint. I will have to cut and weld the diagonal shaft link and rework the geometry a little but it looks like it will not bind up. By doing this I accomplish a few things...
1) Cruise control
2) Intermittent wipers
3) Functioning immobilizer circuit
4) key that will crank the starter (I had a push button)
5) Tilt and telescoping wheel

I have been spending the last couple weeks knitting the electrical system together. I got to hand it to the Germans! Many of the 914 wire colors match the Passat wiring. It looks like they have stuck to their wiring standards after all these years.

The exterior light wires match perfectly. This allows for the use of the Passat flasher and hazard relay and switches. The switch contacts match too. Super easy!

The cruise control is built into the ECU and pre-wired to the column.

The windshield wiper/washer circuit is just as easy. Now I need to source a water bottle and pump.

Everything else is a connection from the ECU to the dash cluster. I'm running multi-conductor cable for this. The old ignition switch wiring matches (mostly) to the new one and the wires to the engine bay will be reused.

I'm not saying this is/has been easy but it is doable if you take your time and take a lot of notes. On top of that I have photoshoped the schematic into a color drawing. I also have a large color plotter at work to blow up the diagrams.

Shown here without the air bag (just in the way) and with only the top trim in place. Note the dual gauge pod on top of the column...

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Here is one of my diagrams...

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You make me






But with envy! Mad skills my man . That will be one custom teener that will be the envy of many I'm thinkin. Can't wait to see it at WCR

It's still going to look like a POS but it should run good. You'll know for sure if I hand you the keys for a joy ride...

Outstanding! Fearless.

Progress... Since the world didn't end...

Grafted in the headlight switch and hazard switch/relay. I am building it into some aluminum diamond plate. Once complete, it will get painted black to match the other diamond plate in the cabin. I have eliminated the 914: headlight switch, hazard switch, flasher relay, fog light switch, Hi/Lo relay and all associated wiring... I still need to install the dimmer rheostat. I ordered 2 different Passat types to see which one looks best.

The Passat stuff eliminates some of the 914 complexity in the wiring. Since I'm on a roll, I will finish the wiring before any more major fab. It also helps since it's raining and welding in a closed garage sucks!

I scored a broken Passat fuel sender to check the resistance range. 300 Ohms full and 40 ohms empty. I need to find a sender to fit or have the old one modified.

Here is a pic. I'm using a clamp to hold in place for now. There is no going back without swapping the entire dash...

The switch rotates to turn the headlights on and pulls out (2 notches) for front and rear fogs. It also pushes in while off, not sure what that does yet. I am missing some pins on the harness plugs (Euro Version), so I ordered another pigtail to get parts...

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That's so sweet! I hope to be able to try something like this soon.

Have you thought about climate controls? Where to mount heater core, a/c evaporator etc. Are you even going to have them?

I'm not using the climate controls. I have a heater built into the fresh air box. I do have most of the A/C parts for a project down the road. I have the 914 controls rigged to operate the water control valve and the fresh air fan blows through the heater core. It actually works very well!

Tomorrow I will tackle the intermittent wiper controls. I'm most excited to try the cruise control system. Since it has an electronic throttle body, the setup is super easy. Just plug in the wires to the steering column.

My original plan did not include the steering column and misc wiring but after I broke the harness down, the wiring is very simple. The only hickup (sort of) would be if I went back to pop up lights. The switch does not have the open/close circuit. So I would have to rig up a relay or two to make it work.

Since my switch can work dual fog lights, I either need a rear one or another set up front...

Thanks for the encouragement! Stay tuned...

Does this look intimidating??? I started wiring the cluster, wipers, ODB II connector and misc. All but 5 or 6 (going to removed systems) of these need to get connected. On top of this, I have the boost controller and meth injection system yet to wire, about 15 more wires. Maybe a few other mics things too...

I'm not sure yet how the system will react to the missing ABS, Climate control, Security and Air Bag systems. My hope is since it has been without power for months, any volatile memory will reset. The Data link to the missing systems will not be connected and hopefully everything will work.

You can see in the pic all the white tags I put on the wires. I have all identified except a yellow/white that connects to "thirteenfold relay position". I have to reverse engineer this connection to see what it does. All I know now is that it comes from the cluster.

Anyone on the site own a VAG-COM device? I may need to connect to the ODB and scan systems once it's running.

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Uh not at all

I think I'd rather drive a Pinto than figure that out

I have an obd scanner that connects to laptop and I run datalogs.
. I use it on my audi, so, It should work for you.

-- brett

Cool. Maybe I'll hit you up in a few months after I get running. Thanks!

This is the one that I have:

http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/pc-based/obdlink-s.html

Very happy with it. I can do real-time readouts, datalogging, code resets, etc. I even have the API for doing custom software for non-compliant codes. It detects and connects to all ECUs that are on the CAN buss.

-- brett

Looking good, brings back memories.
Memories of a pain in the neck, sore back and how do your knees feel?

I don't think the ECU will miss the ABS, Climate control, Security and Air Bag systems... On my WRX I had issues with fuel pump and VSS. I am thinking the ECU will go into limp mode at first. That may keep it from running great but it should run.

BTW, I used a Miata fuel sender on my car, maybe you can use the Audi sender

I have the correct 65psi pump and the speed sensor is connected. I think these are OK. The ECU will not miss the devices, the dash cluster/computer might. I had 034Motorsport "turn off" anything that could put the ECU in limp mode. I am most concerned about idiot lights and alarms going off while driving. For example, if the oil level is low... a "STOP" appears on the dash and "dings", then describs the alarm.

With a VAG-COM (Audi/VW specific) device, you can tell the cluster when you have new devices. Ie: new ABS module, etc... So I may be able to disable the cluster from looking at these devices too. The VAG-COM is over $300 for the hex-decimal version that can make these mods. So I am going to wait and see what happens once I get it startable. I may need it to turn back on the cruise control. Many times when the ECU is re-flashed, the CC turns off. Since the throttle body it electric, it is a simple fix.

The Passat fuel sender is part of the internal fuel pump assembly. I found one at the junk yard and took the sender portion with me. That's how I found out the resistance. I ordered the adapter from the UK and they are programming it for me. Should be an easy connection and fully adjustable.

I am 80% sure this setup will work since I swapped the dash, steering column and ECU. Electrically it will think it is a Passat except the missing control modules. My worst case scenario is I have to remove the cluster from the project. The ECU will continue to run in stand alone. I do find myself checking and re-checking my wire labels. I did find a couple marked wrong. The Passat electrical schematic is very thorough and all the connector pins are numbered. Only a hand full of colors do not match (the schematic) but the do match the wire they connect to.

Dont use an OBD scanner use a VAG-COM scanner. Its like an OBD scanner that you can read and monitor every electrical signal... The ECU shouldnt miss anything except maybe the climate control... You might want to have that plugged in and just sitting somewhere, I mentioned to you earlier that you can monitor some settings via this (at least in the Audi you can..). But its an intuitive system so Its the only one that scares me that you say your going to not have in place.

Crazy work!

The scanner that I have will do all of that. it's not one of those simple scanners from a FLAPs. You use a laptop with it, and can see all sensors and datalog. It's based on the STN1110 chip set, and supporst the ELM327 command set. You can monitor almost every sensor, and if you have the command code, you can access the sensor if it's not in the standard codes.

From the webpage:

The free feature-packed OBDwiz diagnostic software included with the scan tool allows you to:

•Turn off check engine light, and erase stored diagnostic information
•Read and erase stored, pending, and permanent trouble codes (both generic and manufacturer-specific)
•Access freeze frame information
•Display, graph, and log 90+ real-time parameters
•Create custom digital dashboards

So, what is missing from the scanner that I have? I can probably write something to make up for what is missing.

-- brett

I don't know exactly. Check out this site...

http://ross-tech.com/index.html

Brett,

Not dissing your scanner Im sure its a REALLY good scanner. The VAG cars have build in commands that are accessible via this scanner and probably yours as well.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html

Mike, this car is going to be awesome when you finish! One circuit at a time.

Thanks Mike,

I found and read up on the VAG scanner. Pretty much looks like the difference is just some specific commands for VW. It's up to you, if you want to try miine.

I do think that for what you are doing, you will not need the other commands. (Some were specific to the TDI, and some other ECUs on the system.)

-- brett

Thanks everyone for the help and encouragement. It really helps keep me motivated!

This is a weekend project and I still think I can make my deadline of WCR 2013...

My extended family is coming over today for dinner, so not much will happen on the car.

Tasks:
Finish wiring
Finish steering
Install new pedals
Remove motor, finish welding
Install fuel pump
Sort out the axles
Mount shifter/route cables
Fabricate new parking brake handle
Bleed brakes
Install fluids
Modify dash for cluster
Re-install interior
Finish rear trunk floor
Install exhaust
Anything I forgot

Drive the shit out of it...

I bit the bullet and picked up a VAG COM today. I chose the HEX-USB+CAN as it has every feature available. I need to program new chipped keys anyway. Plus it can do all the ODB II stuff plus more...




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9L-v31FEqoM

Since your DBW you can also modify your ECU tune. But thats some custom software that I really dont know much about. I know its free though.

Oh, and there's a T in sasquaTch. :behind couch: Rokin yur pown spelling!

Epic build bro, cant wait to see it in person and bring you a beer.

On top of that I can get a plug in throttle response modifier. basically an op-amp amplifier to modify the input signal. I may build the circuit for $5 instead of paying $300 for the device.

Fixed!

I went to public school...

John

Got most of the rear area and ECU wired. I'm down to 6 or 7 wires but rand out of connectors. I can't believe how many wires I have connected....

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I like the progress!!

Progress continues even without updates. The wiring has taken longer since I'm adding connectors and soldering connections...

Got the cluster figured out. i was going to build a custom fiberglass dash but decided to go another route.

I first broke off the factory clear lens on the cluster and cut the black surround down. I had a piece of acrylic cut to the outer shape of the 914 cluster. The Passat dash is slightly narrower but slightly taller. I used an epoxy designed to bond the ABS to the acrylic. I then painted the acrylic satin black around the edge...

I think it looks pretty good and I get to keep the stock 914 dash shape...

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Yeah Buddy Lookin sweet! Going to be a trip seeing that all going in your 914. A nice updated cluster & steering wheel controls. Good to see you making progress. Can't wait to see it at WCR

Like the gauge cluster idea

I'm getting burned out on wiring...

Today I switched to steering. I had to shorted the under dash steering rod by 2.5 inches. So I cut it in half, connected everything and marked it. I then cut off the excess. I don;t want this weld to fail so I did it more like a structural weld. Note the chamfers on each section. I used an angle aluminum piece in the vice and over clamped it so the heat would not pull the rod. It was welded, ground and spun... Over and over. It is not warped or bent at all. A quick coat of satin black finished it off.

I did discover the VW clock spring does 7 complete revolutions. I never looked to see what the 914 does lock to lock but I hope 7 is OK.

Kind of a boring update but if it don't steer, it don't drive...

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Looks great! Even if it was warped a hair, its just a steering rack...

Progress good!

Mike...your gauge cluster....awesome man! The gauges look factory that way!

Hey Mike, Your doing a great job keep up the great work. John