Well, my car has had 930 steel flares. The right rear was hammered and rolled with a baseball bat at some point. The worse part was the execution. Since the car was once a race car, the PO or PPO did not car how it got installed. They just needed to cover the tires.

They don't look too bad from the outside...

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Here you can see 3 layers of sheet metal.

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Here you can see 1/2" of bondo. White painted fender makes it look thicker.

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I picked up a full set from AIR and 914 LTD. I also picked up some black fender welting. right now I just have them screwed on. I have wide rivets for later down the road. I was bidding on Brad's set (including rockers), lost the bid, bought a set from AIR and then Brad sent me a second chance offer. Now I have 2 complete sets. I already had flared steel rockers but realized the length of each was not consistent. Looks like the PO installed the old flares and built the rockers to fit. All of the old flares were off set different from the opposite side; Asymmetrical. The worst was the front right which was set back a full inch from the left.

So... I installed the new rockers first and installed the flares to meet. The jack post hole was the original alignment point. The ones I chose to install are from 914 LTD. The quality of both were good. The fit was almost the same. The 914 LTD flares were slightly thicker than the AIR's. I did notice that the gel coating on Brad's is cracking. I will deal with this someday when I paint the car.

If anyone needs a set of 4 fiberglass flares PM me. I will sell them for cost. I also have some free steel flared rockers if anyone wants them.

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Looks great! Crazy work on those original flares!

That was a good idea on the dash set up, Mike.

Thanks,

I actually went this route because it looked easier than any other custom work. I think it turned out better than expected. The pics in the thread show it not even in final position. I just placed it there for pics. The final position looks almost factory installed. Well, if you had a 2001 914, that is...

Mike, I like your approach to the gauge panel. I was thinking something similar if I decide to use the SHO gauge panel, but using stock steering column.

I'm curious about the NACA duct on the side. Is that something you added or PO? I'm looking for just that size to mount for intake air, but on the trunk.

They look worse in person. There is 10lbs of bondo on each fender. I also found a bondo dent repair on the front right side. I cut most of it out but it will require some welding at some point. That will be in Part 4 of the build when I strip it for paint.

I think I dropped 50lbs off the car with the fiberglass flares and rockers...

The NACA was an ebay purchase. This one is setup as a cold air intake for the turbo. It was plumbed into a plenum but now the inner fender is the plenum. On the other side of the car, the NACA is the intake for the intercooler's heat exchanger. I cut it down to match the contour of the exchanger...

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That should help some Not sure if thats really enough flow over the intercooler though. Something youll find out when you log your Intake Air Temps after you get the setup up and running.

I have a 7" fan behind there too. I measured the IAT sensor at 120F after some hard driving with the old motor. I reconfigured the IC mounting to eliminate air bubbles within so I hope to have even cooler are now.

Is that the air to air intercooler or is it for the air to water intercooler?

Air to Water. I changed the mounting 90 degrees so the water inlet/outlet are up and down. This should eliminate the air bubble and give a better cooling delta.

Ah, that should work great then.

I've been creating a custom pedal cluster for the 914. I needed a hydraulic clutch and I wanted to keep the stock-ish brake master cylinder. I run a bigger master to push on the 930 calipers. The brakes work great so I did not want to mess with them.

I used Howe pedals but everything else is custom. The clutch cylinder is from Wilwood. This was the second attempt. The first one set the pedals back too far. In the original design, I used the Howe pivot brackets. In order to make it work with the brake master in the factory position, I needed to lower the elevation of the rod. The howe rod pivot point was 3/4" too high. This would have made an extreme angle for the rod into the master. I came up with an articulating rail system for the stock rod. I also needed to offset the rod to the right of the pedal.

You can see all the mechanics of it here and in motion in the video. I added a second pivot to carry the side load created by the offset. After fabrication, I hardened all the parts and shot it with a coat of satin black. The new cluster will weld to the factory cluster floor bracket and bolt to the floor so it can be removed as an assembly.

I did have to cut a hole into the fuel tank cavity for part of the clutch master to fit into the space. The fluid hose will be placed in the cabin with grommets to the reservoir in under the hood.

I tested the pedal torque by placing a C clamp in front of the sliding rail. Clamp was tight and the pedal was able to pop the clamp right off the assembly. I can't tell you the exact torque, I was more concerned with binding or breakage of the system. It appears the brakes should work fine with this setup.

You will see a couple of switches. One for the brakes and one (micro, spring, limit switch) for the clutch for cruise control deactivation.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEBmgYdJ_Ow

Wow thats a lot of bits on that brake lever... Looks extremely smooth but a bit complicated.

What? I only count 20 individual pieces...

It would have been much less if I would have moved the master cylinder...

That's awesome Mike.

Looks like things are coming together nicely, can't wait to see it finished.......finished I crack myself up sometimes.

Your the man Mike, looking great!

Jeff

Mike,

I like your "modular" concept. Keep up the good work!

Andys

I think your work is more impressive! Thanks for the kind words!

Just noticed that you are going to use VW column controls !! Great I've had 2005 VW controls for a while , got the ideas of getting the updated wiper function of the little wheel on the stalk to do intermitten , also on the signal side the dimmer switch thing . Also got a wiper motor to match , which appears to have the same bolt pattern as 914 wiper rack along with the propper relay to operate . It'll be great to see what you come up with , as well as the reat of the mods !!! Thanks for this thread , it does give hope of alternatives to the base VW systems of the 70s.

Jack

I did swap the column for all the reasons you mention... Plus + Cruise Control! I also swapped out the VW steering wheel for an Audi sport unit. The new Porsche steering wheels bolt right on too but they are pricey! I'm not ready to spend $1000 for a wheel and air bag. But it would look cool...

Pedal cluster is in, sort of. I did not do the final welding yet. (in case I need to take it out) I had to compromise on the throttle pedal location. The perfect mounting alignment position would require the removal of the steering shaft. But then I couldn't turn. Ideally it would be a little higher but I don't want to raise the fresh air box area. But it seems OK when I sit in the seat and make engine noises... VROOM!... I got the clutch master bench bled and plumbed to the rear. Right now I just have a -3AN plug in the back since the motor has to come out still for final bolt tightening and minor chassis welding.

I also picked up a FireCharger AFFF fire system. Pretty cool and it allows me to re-charge it at will. I still need to plumb it to the engine bay and rig the pull handle, so for now I just have the location of the bottle mocked up.

I picked up a short shifter for the boxster assembly. The Boxster shift knob is a press on fit to a flat bar. So.. I cut the Lever off, drilled, tapped and installed a Mustang lever. I topped it off with a Hurst style knob with the proper 5-spd pattern embossed on top. You can see the wire frame/fiberglass console I made to snap over the shifter assembly. I cut a gauge hole in it for a future something. Maybe a vintage VW clock...

Please excuse the wiring hanging. I will dress it up once I'm sure all the wiring is complete.

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Here you can see a teaser shot of my Rat Rod 1936 Buick parking brake setup. It's modified (like everything else) to work with my hydraulic parking system.

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Nice pedal cluster, Mike.

That sub in the passenger footwell looks sweet

I had a bit of bad luck today, although I solved it too.

I was drilling for some rivets to hold down the aluminum diamond plate tunnel cover. The fourth one I drilled I sment gas.

I had to cut the tunnel open to get to the hard line. Yep... Hole through and through. Since the fuel system is already complete and I didn't fell like re-plumbing, I got a compression coupler from HD supply and fixed it. The aluminum hard lines use -6AN compression fittings anyway. They are designed for a brass ferrule, so I figured the brass compression fitting will be fine. It was a pain cutting the tunnel open with my air saw. No sparks!

There is a small boxed section on the passenger side next to the shifter. When I ran the hard lines, one of them made it into this small cavity. It is just big enough for the 3/8" line to fit through.

Good thing I picked up some .023 wire last week. This made rewelding the thin sheet metal easier. All fixed!

I then switched to plumbing the fire system. Might come in handy some day...

Lesson of the day... Know where your fuel lines are!

Say Mike, your seatbelt doesn't look to be stock 914; the cable to latch looks somewhat longer, if I'm not mistaken. What are you using, and will it couple with the stock 914 seat belt tongue?

Andys

It came with a set of belts I picked up at McMark's swap meet. The whole setup looks just like the 914 set I took out except for the latch. And yes the 914 belt does lock in; Same shape plug.

My wife didn't like the old 914 belts and the latch was too short for her comfort. So I swapped it out. I haven't done the drivers side yet, as you can see in the picture.

It's a 944 seat belt setup.

I pulled the motor today in order to finish some odds and ends. Just about every peripheral component needed to be tightened down. I had to make custom 12mm wrenches to get the exhaust bolted on. There isn't much space and a conventional box wrench would not work. I have about a dozen custom tools fabbed up for the series of engine swaps.

The methanol injector was mounted to the outlet of the intercooler. This is a 330cc injector good for 350hp @ 7500 rpm. Right in my range. Notice the tip is recessed. In theory, this allows the spray to form a "cone" before the air flow (passing by) cuts into the stream. By doing this it promotes better atomization. There is some debate on other forums about installing the injector within the intercooler. The argument revolves around pooling inside the cooler. In my case, I am running a solenoid before the injector to prevent dribble thus avoiding pooling. In addition, the injector will not open below 10psi and/or an analog signal from the MAF.

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The Audi/VW motors suffer from sludge build up in the PCV system. There was even some law suit over it. I decided to mitigate problems by using a crankcase evacuation system. 034 Motorsport hooked me up with a machined aluminum fitting that plugs into the system. I added some 5/8" aluminum hard line and brass compression fittings. This is the main line that heads to a custom built 1 gallon catch can. From the catch can the line continues to the vacuum venturi welded to the exhaust. This type of system is usually found on V8 drag cars. As the exhaust flows past the venturi a vacuum is pulled on the system- on the engine crank case. It was originally designed to help seal rings on high HP engines. So I get the best of both worlds. Reduced sludge and better sealing combustion chambers.

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Here is a pic of the turbo oil drain. I used the lower original oil drain and some high temp hose with an -10AN fitting. After cutting the factory stainless hard line, I rolled a bead on it to keep the hose in place. I finally got to use my mini bead roller!

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As I mentioned before, an AFFF fire system has been installed. This system is approved by many racing sanctioning bodies. This system from FireCharger is also refillable by me at any time. I runs off a compressed CO2 cylinder. You just need a refill kit and water. Very easy! I am more concerned with putting out a fire than weather or not the car will pass tech. I still keep fire extinguishers in the car any way.

The bottle and CO2 housing are mounted on the front tunnel. I mounted the handle on my shifter console. The nozzle tubing is routed on top of the tunnel, up the firewall and pops out into the engine bay at the top. The two nozzles are mounted slightly to the left of center. One over the fuel rail and one over the intake manifold. I painted the top of the tips red so they don't blend in to the rest of the stuff back there.

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Your skills just blow me away. I like the way you have laid stuff out and look forward to seeing this car back on the road. Great work Mike.

I will have a fire suppression system in my Six just because. I also think a nice small handy fire extinguisher is worth having in the car too. Probably mount one of those at the front of the passenger seat.

Don't take a chance, make a new line & double check all mounting points & fittings and whatever else you have in the fuel system....you don't want to deploy that Fire system.....

That is partially why the motor is out. I'm checking every nut, bolt and fitting. I'm peening the exhaust connections and paint striping every other connection, so I know it's done. I need a couple weekends of fiddling around and then go back to final assembly.

Great build!

Awesome! I'm not trying to be mother hen but it's always on my mind, I'm a firefighter and have had some terrible experiences with car accidents involving fires...

All great things in this post!!

I havent seen very many sludge issues as of late, But your solution for the PCV system works great! I just dump mine

I will dump my catch can too. The difference is my exhaust Venturi will generate vacuum under boost. In fact, the more air (exhaust) flowing past it, the greater the vacuum generated. This is why it's great on a boosted engine. The factory PCV system closes and stops working under boost conditions.

Mark,

So does the stock 914 seat belt tongue fit the 944 latch?
I made a flat steel bar stock extention to lenghten my 914 latch, but would have prefered to find something OEM that is longer than the stock 914 cable and latch assembly. If it's compatible, how much longer is the 944 cable?

Thanks,

Andys

Gotta use the 944 pieces. The 944 latch is either shorter or the same length as the 914 piece.

Andys,

Here is a pic of the seat belt buckles. Left 944, Right 914.

The 914 buckle I have absolutely does latch into the 944 receiver. Looks like it wouldn't but it does. I'm not sure I would trust it in an accident. Thats why I changed both parts.

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Mark/Mike,

Thanks for the quick response......Guess I'll just leave mine as-is.

Andys

Those seat belts look the same as a set of aftermarket belts I got off of EBAY a few years ago. Even have the same #0701 on the buckle. The female end of the buckle has a long shaft and is high enough to be used with my Scheel seats.

Bob

Got the motor almost ready to go back in. I pulled almost every nut and bolt added some red, blue or green Locktite (depending on the application).
Bolts tight
Turbo oil lines done
Turbo coolant lines done
Exhaust manifolds tight
Coolant lines done
Vacuum lines done
Belts replaced

I also cleaned to oil (from the rotary) from the engine bay and resprayed the white. I used the "Awesome cleaner" from the dollar store. Thanks Lennie! Stuff works great. At one point with the rotary, I was racing a Carrera on the freeway. Under boost the oil filler neck popped off. A fine mist of oil was sprayed all over the car. The worst part was the top was off and I got covered. BTW, I won...

Here a few pics while I watch paint dry...

Hell hole looks pretty good.

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Looks great!!!!

I forgot about all the weird chassis stuff thats been done to this car..

Spent some time cleaning and painting the rear trunk. I'm off tomorrow and Tuesday so I plan on getting the motor stuffed back in and commence final assembly. Paint in the engine bay has sat for 2 weeks so hopefully I don't screw it up. I'll have to be careful in the trunk.

I have a few cover plates for the trunk that still need paint. The engine side and over the exhaust are removeable.


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Paint looks great! What are you you spraying and with what?

This is just a case of rattle can. One of white primer and one gloss white. Many thin coast until the final to let it flow...

I'm keeping up with the racecar theme. One day the car will go on a rotisserie and get blasted and a proper paint job. But then I will be afraid to drive it...

Motor is in! Lots of stuff done. Lots more to do... More tomorrow...

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Nice!

As always, very impressive Mike, I wish I had half your fabrication skills

Looks awesome

Jeff

More, More, More...

Radiator coolant lines: DONE
Heater lines: DONE
Intercooler lines: DONE
Intercooler pump: DONE
Oil lines: DONE
Oil pressure line: DONE
Intake piping: DONE
Recirc valve: DONE (Forge DV/BOV in DV mode only)
Turbo inlet: DONE
MAF: DONE
Aire cleaner: DONE
Fuel lines: DONE
PCV evacuation system: DONE


NEEDS:
fuel pump install
catch can drain
vacuum lines connected
wastegate connected
boost control connected
exhaust install
Wiring connected
Interior cleaning
Dash cluster install
Rear sway bar install
Fluids: motor oil, tranny oil, coolant
Axle measurement t, order and install
Clutch final bleeding

I can't believe how much stuff was bolted to this system. I waited until final assembly to plumb all the fluid lines. What a bitch. The area on the left side of the engine bay is very contested with hoses (heater, intercooler, heat exchanger, pump, oil, oil pressure).

I had one of those senior moments today. I lost my throttle body. When I took it off, I put it somewhere safe. It took me an hour to fine it...


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