Dude this is just killer!!!

Im confused on your overflow tank. Why is there 2 lines going to it?

It looks confusing since I have 2 tanks. One is the normal engine expansion tank. The other is the intercooler / heat exchanger tank. Both systems are setup to self bleed. Just like the factory designed...

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Got it.

Didnt notice the Audi colored expansion tank in the pic!

Yea. The tank I used for the heat exchanger is a Mercedes unit and sender. I had to modify the guts of the sender to integrate it into the coolant level warning. Basically I turned it into an on/off switch. I'm running the 2 sensors in parallel to get an alarm to the dash. 3 sensors really since I also included the meth tank level switch. So if any of them go low, I get a "LOW COOLANT" warning on the dash.

Thats really cool! You integrated that into the VW dash?

It was much easier than it sounds. After dissecting the harness, the coolant level is just a simple ground switch. So I have 3 switches in parallel. Easy!

I understood it, I just think its cool that you came up with the idea! You and your electrical background...

I started putting the wire harness in today and finishing some final connections. It took a while to get my head back into the wiring system. Lucky for me I labeled everything. Getting very close to cranking this thing over. I can hardly wait.

Engine harness...

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Mounted in removable bulkhead...

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In the car...

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Here is my cool wide band to narrow band O2 converter (Left). It takes a linear 0-5v signal and converts it to a linear 0-1v signal. So I can feed the ECU with a scaled wide band signal, in stead of the crappy narrow band signal. The switch (center) will allow me to switch back and forth if I have any driveability or code issues.

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Here is the flow meter and filter for the methanol system...

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I cleaned up my Bilstein's too. Looks like I need a ~21" axle on the left and a ~22" axle on the right. I found a good source for axles from an off road VW place. It's going to cost around $200 for a pair. Pretty good pricing. I plan to clean up and reuse my 28 spline, 911 CV joints.

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Link to axles? Thats awesome!

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/axles.html

You, sir, are mad.

And we are all that much better for it.

Fire that beast up and post up some vids!

Congrats on an awesome project.

Wow, a blast from the past. I bought a LOT of stuff from them back in the 90's when they first opened. Great guys, and good enough to point you to the best people in the industry to go to when they can't help any more. To me that's a good company, when they go out of their way to make sure their customers do well and are successful.

Your car looks great. Can't wait to hear your driving impressions.

I picked up one of these LSD units. Supposed to be a cheap alternative to the $2700 LSD for the Boxster.

http://www.phantomgrip.com/tech-tips


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGLXKLFiDpA


The testimonials look great. We will see how it works very soon.

Stay tuned!

Whats the price of these?

MSRP ~$450. I found a vendor for $250 out the door with 650 ft lb spring upgrade.

Thats pretty killer right there! This is gearbox specific correct? This would simply be awesome in conjunction with that powertrain. But I bet it'll get quick sideways on you quite quickly! Cant wait to hear the feedback.

Finishing off stuff here and there.

I added a momentary toggle switch to allow cranking the engine from the trunk...

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If anyone ever wondered about the Renegade Hybrids "500hp axle" kit is... It's a VW Type 2 axle with 33 spline CV's. Not sure if the CV's are T2 or 944... You can see the "VW 2" logo stamped into the end.

New axles are on the way from SoCal. Final measurements are 20.25" and 21.375".

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I popped out the diff today to get ready for the Phantom Grip LSD. I was surprised how easy it was to get out. I took some measurements of the diff parts so you guys can compare to the 901 diff. I will as-built the LSD part when it arrives. This transaxle is an Audi 012, 5 speed. The spider gears are already machined flat, so I do not have to take it to a machine shop. The LSD pushes against both spiders equally to act like a clutch type LSD. If the spiders are not flat and true, the LSD will not work correctly. The other nice thing about this system; you don't have to reset any back lash since the 3 member and bearings are not really messed with.

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18mm shaft

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27mm between the flat surfaces of the drive gears

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Trivial question (compared to the great work you've done ) what label maker did you use for your labels in orange?

I have a Brady ID Pal. It's pretty awesome! Various font sizes, tape styles, etc...

I got the Phantom Grip(PG) installed today. I did have to machine the drive gears and the spider gears for clearance. I drove to several machine and gear grinding shops today. None of them could do the job. No way to chuck them up in the machine. So I did it myself. I built a drill rig from a bolt and some washers. The drive gear has a recess on the face for the stub axle circlip. I chucked up the gear in my drill and while spinning at low speed, ground it on my bench grinder. I took my time and kept eye with a caliper and straight edge. It turned out better than I expected. Looks like a flat machine finish. I also had to clearance the PG axle hole a little. Since I machined the drive gear, the stub axle sticks through a little further. I opened the hole in the PG to allow the stub to slide in without binding. Normally the end of the stub would be in the empty center void.
2mm off the drive gears
1mm of the spiders
1mm clearance inside the PG

Light tapping into the 3rd member and done. Overall the quality of the PG seems good. The theory looks sound and the fit is snug. If I take the springs out, the system turns freely, no binding.

I took some measurements in case somebody wants to try to fit this into a 901
Fully collapsed springs in my vise
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Most of the area machined has no impact on function. Only a tiny bit of the contact surface was machined, verified by the wear marks.
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Installed. You can see the springs within the unit. These push on the drive gears to limit independant movement. It is very tight and cannot be rotated by hand. Once installed and wheels on, I will try to spin one wheel and see how much give the system has.

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Looking into the drive gear splines. In the above picture of the gear you can see the recess for the circlip. I clearanced the PG so even the clip could go through. The stub stops on the top edge of this view. It has a shoulder the prevents the stub from going too far into the diff.

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What prevents the unit from falling out except tension?

The pin that holds the spider gears and the stub axle ends. Both will keep it in place from 2 axis's.

Notice in the previous pics the PG has 2 holes in it.

Brain fart.

Electrician, my ass. Wizard is much more appropriate.

Awesome stuff, even if I got lost once you got into that diff stuff

Thanks for taking the time to photo and post progress; like everyone else, looking forward to seeing her run

Joe

Got the axles installed. These are Empi with 3" splines, no inner clip. Designed for the CV to slide in/out with travel. I cleaned and repacked the CV's and tie wired up the new 914rubber bolts. I had to re-do the exhaust again. I found the run from the turbo to the muffler interferes with the axle. I borrowed a 4"- 22° pipe from work and fixed it.

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I finally powered up the car. VagCom found no communication to the ECU. When I troubleshooted, I found the main relay not powering up the ECU. Looks like some more investigation in store tomorrow...

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Those gages look kick ass all lit up

Can't wait to hear the video of it running. Way to go man

looking good Mike!

Liking the gauges, glad I pulled the gauge cluster from my suby donor, might have to use it.

You're truly an inspiration for all!

Jeff

Awesome!!!

It started today! I had to shut it down due to a fuel leak

The earlier wiring problem was a missing ground on the main relay. Easy fix.

The fuel leak was a bitch, in a bad location. I had to take the rear trunk panel off to get to it. Meth system and ECU had to come out. I'm guessing it will be driveable in about 2 weeks.

I still have to bleed the clutch, mount reservoir, swap out fuel pumps, tie up wiring, install seats and carpet, add coolant. Oh, reinstall the meth system and ECU...

I'm sure there are some other minor things to do as well.

Sounds great!

Wish I could say I am two weeks out... This car is going to be awesome! Probably the best all around transplant that I've seen. Good MPG (when you want it), tremendous power when you take weight into consideration and fairly cheap parts... Can't wait to see it going!



Thomas

Ok it runs! Drive by wire throttle works. All fuel leaks sealed. I blew an injector seal on the rail. I discovered my fuel pressure regulator don't work. Well it does work if I want the fuel pressure at 120psi but that is it. No matter how far I turn out the adjustment screw it stays at 120psi. The good news is the fuel system is holding at 120 but the ECU wants 60psi. Raw gas was coming out the exhaust... But it does rev up with the pedal and it starts right away!

My regulator is an Aeromotive and is supposed to be 85psi max. I double checked the instructions too. I even tried blowing air through it. My 125psi compressor could barely get air to come out. If I blow air the wrong way through it just chatters.

Here is a quick video...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLjDtpjFmKY

That is Awesome.

You've got to be a happy guy today, looks like you'll be driving it in no time

Jeff

I contacted them about doing one for our 901's. They strung me along for a couple months and never did end up doing one as far as I know.

stunning just stunning...

It runs. 90% of the wires are tied up. Clutch is bled. New rear springs are in. All fluids in. Seats back in.

Time to drive this bitch!

There are some minor things to finish but I plan on going on a test drive in the morning. If I get real lucky, I will drive it to the Parts Heaven swap meet. One year ago I had the car there with a turbo rotary. Looks like I made me deadline of WCR 13. Too bad I can't go...



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Wooo!!!

We need video's asap!

Gonna take it to 034 for tuning?

No video yet. But here are some pics of it off jack stands!

So there was a glitch. The Audi water pump is not up to the task of circulating water up to the front. System was running hot in the back and cool in the front. I even heard the turbo line boiling. Lucky for me I had a Miziere pump in the garage. I mounted up front and what a difference! It runs very good. Idles perfectly. No fuel stink. Basically like an Audi with a 4" exhaust. The turbo spools very fast and at low rpm. Like 1st gear taking off from a stop sign. I have to go east and shift to second to keep it out of boost. The final drive gearing is a little low. It drives like a close ratio box. 5th gear on the freeway is a blast. Turbo kicks in and "off it goes"...

I still need to fab a mounting bracket for the pump and do a few misc things but I would not hesitate to drive it anywhere. I also need to relocate the accelerator pedal. I need to clock the pedal 90° and lift the electronics to a more comfortable position.

I bought some 220lb springs from Warren to put in the rear. Wow! what a difference. The progressives I had were way to soft for the Bilstein front setup.

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Yes. Maybe next month. I need to shake it down first.

Nice eBrake.

Congrats!

Damn fine looking emblem!
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From a 1937 Buick. Little taste of Rat Rod...

No this one.

I have a real wheel chock on the other side. I misplaced the other one. Hopefully the car won't bein the street in the morning. Btw, it's happened...

Here's a run down of some of the electrical stuff and first shakedown run. I have 60 miles on it now.

I tried the wipers by accident. They work. I grafted the Passat wiper switch and relay to the 914 motor. I now have programmable delay wipers. All I did was match up the numerical connection point and got lucky!

I have to re-flash the ECU to activate cruise control.

Turn signals and hazards work too. I did order some german dual filament lamps with the correct contacts unlike the standard 1157 lamp.

I may have to reconnect the ABS module in order to flash it out of the system. I kept it but I need to find it. This is the only CEL the car shows.

My fuel sender controller (Spyida.com) is not working so one of the projects is to graft the Passat sender on to a compatible mount on the tank. The Passat is a 250 ohm Full and 10 ohm empty. The closest I have is a Chrysler 30 ohm full and 240 ohm empty. I flipped the guts but It doesn't read quite right. The instrument cluster only wants a basic potentiometer.

I ordered a 3 minute "on delay" timer to control the Intercooler pump, Intercooler fan and water pump. Right now the start every time the key is turned on. I'm going to use the fuel pump output as the trigger. That way it will only start if the fuel pump is running.

Headlight work as they should with no issues. I have not tried the fogs yet. Not sure why, just haven't gotten to it.

I decided not to run the factory BOV solenoid so I picked up some 330 ohm, 20W heat sink resistors. These trick the ECU to think the solenoid is connected and prevent driveability issues. If I needed to have the car inspected, I could use these resistors to fake the readiness of the EVAP and SAI systems too.

The boost controller seems to work but there is a screw in brass vent screen on the solenoid making noise. This is normal but irritating so I may relocate/extend it into the trunk. Boost is set at 10psi for now.

I still have to do final calibrations to the methanol system and some testing before I turn the boost up.

This engine has much less power (right now) than the rotary but is way more driveable. As the engine gets tuned and all systems dialed in, I will do a dyno run to see what it's doing. The Motronic 7.5 system is great. It's real nice sitting at a red light and not smelling unburnt gas. If I keep my foot out of it, it runs like a stock Audi. The exhaust is very quiet at idle and has a nice throaty sound under acceleration.

Great work Mike! Can't wait for the video!

On mine I cut the plastic arm very short on the accelerator pedal unit and mounted it on the front wall above/behind the pedal cluster. Using the stock pedal and heim joint arrangement to translate the signal to the shortened arm. All my pedals line up as stock. Nice work!

Do you have this 3 min delay on an override switch? I fear if you take it to an autox you wont hit 3 minutes before you are needing it to pump (Say after its fully warm like in-between runs)

How is the powerband? When do you see full boost? You should see 10psi by earlier than 2700. This turbo should feel very natural with the engine. Not peaky, not laggy, not undersized, just very eager.

10psi on that turbo should be between 200-225hp 25psi and race gas should see closer to 375.

Do a couple of 1st and 2nd gear pulls for us! What redline is 034 going to tune to? My vote is 7300. You probably will peak around 6500, but its stays pretty strong up there.

I would only need to have the engine running 3 minutes prior to the run.

I will play witht he car (drive) when I get home today. I do get 10psi by 2500 rpm, faster if I go WOT.

Car looks great Mike! You have rebuilt your car twice and I have yet to finish. Wanna make a trip out here?

What's even more interesting is if you look at our shifters... We both posted within a couple weeks and have similar looking set-ups. That was quite funny really!

Great minds think alike I hear!

Thomas

Quick video, my cameraman (son) pressed stop too early...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=/FTEvDUC74yI


Here is a walk around...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXjezk3rby0