Bad bearing in the 6 speed making noise. I do like the shorter ratios in the 6!

Mike, didn't I see a Haltech Platinum ecu in the trunk of your 914, when you were down in L.A. ?
Or was it just an HECU-1 coil igniter ?
Marty

Well a quick look at the tubing and it looks intact. I'll have to look carefully for a ripped silicone connection.

If the tubing is OK, that leaves a stuck diverter valve or a bad turbo...

That was a Haltech WB O2 controller. I do have an extra HECU-1 if anyone needs one...

That was a Haltech WB O2 controller. I do have an extra HECU-1 if anyone needs one...

Smoke Test? Not that kind.

I'm starting to think my WG may be bad. If you go back a couple pages you will see my WG had fallen off and was dragging on the ground. For about 10 miles on a twisty road! All I did was fix an adapter fitting and bolt it back on to see if it worked. It did and I drove it until now. I have a new WG sitting on the shelf waiting to be used.

I think it's the WG since I'm running a Forge DV in semi-blow mode. If the DV was bad, I would hear it whistle. All my intake tubing looks intact. All my silicone fittings look intact.

I'm going to pull the WG and see if the valve is stuck open. The valve may be bent from all the road rash...

The turbo still spins freely and when I turn off the engine, I can hear it spin down for some time before it stops. I think it is probably good since I never heard or felt a problem. I have to think if the turbo had a catastrophic failure, I would know when it happened. Since no FOD entered the intercooler and the exhaust still spins it, 90% chance it's still OK.

The turbo would make a noise, dentist drill or similar or sound like an exhaust leak.

Forged DV's really dont go bad. It makes perfect sense for it to be the wategate that dragged on the ground Those turbo's dont just up and go bad instantaneously unless something comes in the intake and its the blades.

Exactly! FOD would have to get through my air cleaner and MAF grid first. Turbo makes no noise at all.

There's you problem right there...

The Waste gate broke! The two halves separated and all the exhaust pressure was going out the WG. no spring pressure at all...


Looks like it took some abuse but it was enough to start the self disassembly process.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment


Here is the one I had sitting around. 38mm water cooled JDM POS. I have had great luck with the WG vendor so hopefully it will last long enough. This one was bolted on with new gaskets and high temp thread locker.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

OK. Car runs perfect again.

2nd rule in Troubleshooting:

Make sure your not chasing 2 different problems.

I had a blown fuse, then I had a no boost problem. I first started to look at this as a related problem. ECU got the blame. Turns out to be an electrical and mechanical fix. (See last post)


Now on to the next project...

Who can guess what these parts will become?

Click to view attachment

[/quote]
That was a Haltech WB O2 controller. I do have an extra HECU-1 if anyone needs one...
[/quote]

Mike, pm me a good guy price...I might want a spare unit in stock for 9148 gtt.
Marty

Solenoid/ Cable operated air brakes (Raptor style) for rapid decel ?!

This is what I have left. 4 Channel ignitor module. Just the module. Not sure where the used plugs and bracket are.

Click to view attachment

Today's project was corny and trivial. I bought these "Porsche Lasers" and installed one on my rear bumper. They came from Bangood.com (China) and cost $12.50 for a pair. The kit comes with a hole saw "HSS" that worked good enough for my FG bumper. It is actually an LED with a lens that is printed with the Porsche Logo. Like a slide but. It looks better than I thought it would. I have it pointed down and will light up with the headlights. The ribbed barrel unscrews to reveal a small flange on the end of the lamp.

The kit is intended to be installed in the doors and go on with the dome light. If you want a pair go here... http://www.banggood.com/2-X-Laser-Logo-LED...e-p-908117.html

The whole install was worth it since I discovered the fiberglass bonding to the mounting tabs needs some attention.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

DAPO

Who does this?

Click to view attachment

Loose fiberglass needs to be cut off and redone. I have epoxy and CF so it will be a lightweight repair.

Click to view attachment

Electric Parking Brake

We have a winner!

Yes. Just waiting for a few more parts and some motivation.

That's just awesome.

Belongs in the DAPO. Pictures thread for sure.

There's a DAPO thread?

Does this qualify?

Click to view attachment

Yup to both!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=111299

I finally got my "non plunging" 930 CV's. These operate up to 40°. The cage and star are chrome moly. Notice the bearing track is symmetrical, equal distance and 90° to the face. These require 3" of splines to let the axle slide in the CV.

My plunging CV's click due to the angle. As the axle spins, there has been a harmonic vibration of the axle. This is mostly noticed at low rpm (axle speed). On the freeway there is no vibration. These CV's eliminate the harmonic and clicking. Install tomorrow!

Non Plunging

Click to view attachment


Plunging CV

Click to view attachment

Well it's going under the knife again. When I originally installed the Audi motor, I mounted it as low as as far forward as possible. This became my Nemesis. I have been fighting axle angle for too long. Every time you fix something, you find the next weakest link. I now have axles and CV's that are stronger than almost any force my car can give. But the angle is steep, 15-20°, maybe more under compression.

The next weak link... The Boxster tranny (5 & 6 speed) use a circlip to keep the stub in the tranny. The axle angle is now causing it to "walk" out of the tranny after 500 miles or so. It pops right out of the diff and spills fluid on the ground.

I just took some measurements of the car and have determined I need to move & rotate the engine/tranny combo. It will move 2" to the rear and the end of the tranny will be lifted 2". This will put the axle in a better but not perfect position. The 6 speed is much longer than the 5. If I move it back any further, the exhaust will hang out too far.

This pic shows the present position (red) and the future position (green). I only need to rebuild the motor mounts and reuse the cradle. Then I have to move 100 other things connected to the motor, inter cooler, turbo, exhaust, MAF, fuel lines, methanol tank, trunk floor, and everything else that pops up.

Good news: I'm not swapping the motor out. It runs great, needs nothing except to flash out my ABS brake alarm.

Now I have a summer project...

Click to view attachment

Here are pics of the axle angles from the rear. Taken with my iPhone resting on level ground. The left side is worse due to the offset diff in the tranny. This does not show front to rear angle, only up/down. The angle on the left side was creating a walking motion of the CV toward center, thus pulling the stub flange out. The CV's are rated to work up to 40°.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Could you integrate the ABS from the passat? It would require redoing the brake lines and adding sensors, but doable right??

Just another awesome thought (914 with ABS would be awesome...)


On topic, that is an insane amount of angle. Really surprising you dont have more issues with it.

There is a Bosch racing unit that could be incorporated. I think the factory unit may be dangerous since its designed around a 3500 lb car with tiny brakes.

The angle is no worse than a sand rail. I now have crazy strong and flexible CV's. It's just pulling out the stub. Super easy to fix but a PITA. I don't want to drive around with a floor jack and a 2x4. So I have to fix it the hard way.

Dude your making it way harder than it needs to be. Darn engineers. Just paint the drivers side red like the passenger side. That's what is throwing everything off. Pitiful when someone ignorant like me puts you in your place huh

Maybe the axles are different lengths, and he painted the Right side Red, so's he knows which one goes where

Nice build! My own first project car was a Mk1 Scirocco with a 1.8t (180hp) swap. Would love to turbo my 914 but I want to keep the original engine and at the moment it just seems easier to build a 2.4 liter instead of going the boostroute.

I wondered how long it would take before you got into it again. Is an amphi-car on the horizon.

Well the axles are 2 different lengths and purchased at different times. So one set came raw and one came red.

I now have several pairs of various size 28 spline axles. PM me if you need an axle and I'll see if I have one.

I also have 2 pairs of 33 spline if someone needs those...



Did anyone think I could make it a full year without tearing it apart again???

Nope. Better than waiting for something really bad to happen though right? It'll be even more awesome.

So I finally put the car on jack stands (6) and started realigning the drivetrain. I purchased a motorcycle jack from Sears.com. It was only $140 and built a jig to hold the engine/tranny in position.

I started on the rear trannt mount first and over the next couple weekends will build the engine mounts. Lucky for me I built the cradle to accept modular motor mount attachments. I used ratchet straps to pull the motor rearward and right/left. I now have at least +2" in front of the motor now.

Here is the starting angle as viewed from above...

Click to view attachment

Here is the finish angle as viewed from above

Click to view attachment

I pulled everything out of the trunk area. Originally I built a dropped trunk floor to gain more space. The new trunk floor will be the same depth as stock.

Click to view attachment

I had to cut out a section in the rear to make room for the 6 speed. I still have the 5 speed but it is smaller so it should fit no problem. I am reenforcing the area with some 1", .120 wall DOM tubing, to tie everything back together...

Click to view attachment

Looks great!

Got my motor mounts done today. The fronts are complete. The rear I'm not happy with so that will get reworked. The rear is triangulated and gusseted but you can't tell from the pic. The pic makes it look like a hinge...

I managed to move the motor without disconnecting and draining the radiator hoses. I did have to disconnect and drain the intercooler. This was OK since I didn't like how the intake coupling to the throttle body set before. This time I connected the coupling and let the intercoole hang from the TB, than welded new mounts. Before the 90° coupling was slightly pinched due to the angle and location of the IC. It fits much better now.

So here's the list of things to do...

Change fitting on fuel rail to a 90° since the motor is relocated and there is interference.

Re-mount the IC water pump and fill and bleed the system.

Install new circlip on tranny stub axles.

Re-work exhaust due to relocating motor and new interference issue.

clearance engine cradle for relocated axle. gusset cradle at modification.

Rebuild trunk floor.

Remount methanol system

Re-install trunk electrics and ECU

I'm sure I'll think of more to do as I continue...

A few pics. You can see just under the axle flange where I cut the cradle to clear the CV. This is where the gusset/reinforcement will happen.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Rear mount looks like shit. I reused part of the old mount. Just not happy with the result but it is pretty strong.

Click to view attachment

Looks good Mike! Probably a lot of work. I just swapped mounts and it's taken me a couple of days to re-trim stuff so it all fits since it pushed the engine back a few inches (it's a good thing and the mount fits much better). Made me realize how hard it would be to MAKE a mount and get it level, plumb, at the right height, angle, etc.

Looks damn good to me!

Still pushing forward. Most of the engine bits are bolted back on. Exhaust is ready to install and then I can start fabricating the new trunk floor.

I drilled the fuel rail for safety wire to hold the injector clips. Works great! Now my injectors won't move lower into the intake manifold. Since I'm running fuel at 65psi, the injectors would walk down toward the manifold. New O rings on the injectors too. I painted the intake manifold red. Not sure why but it looks better than it did.

Click to view attachment

Looking down at the intercooler. The 60° reducing coupling from the throttle body fits better now. Here you can also see the methanol injector. it's mounted in the IC as this was the best place to get maximum-equal cooling.

Click to view attachment

I still need to deal with the wiring harness. I figure I will build the trunk floor then decide where to route things. I need to make room for the meth tank and pump somewhere too. I had a 4" drop in the trunk floor before. Now it will be stock height.

Click to view attachment

Here is the part that sucks. I had to cut the trunk shelf to clear the fuel rail and vacuum hose connection... Once I figure out what the finished product will look like, I'll clean up the cut.

Click to view attachment

Why not build a fiberglass floor that you can bolt on and off? Would make engine removal and workin on it a snap..

I mean considering the car and all the other bits on it...

That's a great idea. You could do a partial overlay if you didn't want to cut the whole trunk section out. I was just wondering what I could do to make mine a little prettier. You have weird little clearance cuts for the starter and clutch fork with a Subie.

I am making the trunk floor out of aluminum. Not fiberglass. But it will be removable. I rosette welded the old one and had to drill them out. Since this car has turned into a "drivetrain test mule" I want to make it super easy next time. I do not plan to swap engines again unless I get a deal on a water cooled Porsche 6.

I installed a new Stewart electric water pump and got rid of the Mezerie pump. The Stewart is virtually silent with only the slightest hum. Seems to work great, simply connected to the old relay.The tamp is a little low at 170° but it was like that with the old pump too. The bearing in the old pump was going out.

Car seems to be running great. No axle or CV issues. Good boost and good O2 levels. It's ready to be driven...

Click to view attachment
Looks like this new. Mine is black 1-1/4" in/out.
Click to view attachment

I cleaned up the rear trunk. Ready for the Werks Reunion next Friday.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I got poked by a member here for messy wiring in the trunk...

October 2013 while at the Porsche Escape I had to jury rig my water pump after a timer relay failed. Before that, I has some other unsightly wiring for the main power and fans. I let it run like this for almost 1 year.

Here is a before picture, at its worse...

Click to view attachment

Here is the after. I used the opportunity to pull the tank and install AN tank fittings. -8 for the pump supply and a -6 for the return. I also installed AN ball valves for maintenance of the fuel system. I run the return into the trunk before the tank for access. The fuel system consists of 3/8" Aluminum hardline (soft, 250psi burst rating) and braided hose. The fuse box is a marine grade unit. It's only rated for 125A but I'm claiming the NEC 10' tap rule.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Merry X-Mas! Since you bumped it... Here's an update...

The 5 speed is going back in so the 6 speed can be sent out to Dr Evil for some surgery. I hope to get it sent out to Ohio early next year.

Damn....a water cooled Porsche six huh?

Do you have any in car video of driving this thing?

No but I can come pick you up and let you film it...

Deal!

Mike. will a 930 cv bolt up to the 012 FWD A4 output flange ?
Randy