There are some lightening holes in our brace. Here is how it looks from the other direction:

I am SURE you havent looked over this tiny detail (you dont seem to miss any), but is that kill switch in the front set in that position when fully engaged (i.e. allowing power to flow)? Actually heard of someone in the SpeedVision series having a rock kick up and knock the kill switch It looks engaged there, just making sure!

QUOTE (1973914 @ Jan 25 2005, 12:50 PM)

I am SURE you havent looked over this tiny detail (you dont seem to miss any), but is that kill switch in the front set in that position when fully engaged (i.e. allowing power to flow)?  Actually heard of someone in the SpeedVision series having a rock kick up and knock the kill switch  :wacko:     It looks engaged there, just making sure!

I'm kind of embarrased to say this...
I mounted it 90degrees off from where I wanted
we wanted it to point forward and backwards, but screwed up and mounted it sideways when in the engaged position.

we had to take the handle apart and move the roll pin to get it shifted back into the forward back (engaged) mounting position..

good point though

QUOTE (brant @ Jan 25 2005, 08:01 AM)

These aren't all that clear, but here is our MC brace. This came up in a different thread. We've run this same brace on our -4 cylinder car for 5-8 years. It takes out the "flex" in the floorboard. Its easy to bolt it onto an aluminum cross-brace, but shouldn't be too hard to weld, or bolt to a stock steel cross-brace:

There was a thread on this board about the "fix" installed on the "grass roots" project.

http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/914.html (see picture below)

I think what Brant has done is much better! It certainly looks better IMHO!

Very little racecar work this weekend, spent the weekend working on the tow vehicle.

Here are the aluminum spacer blocks that dad made up for the rear shock bolts. The notch is for the trailer tie downs (very convienient)

small update. We have been sorting out the details, and fighting glitches. For example we bled the brakes this weekend and spent about a day and half chasing down a troublesome leak in a brake line. Turns out that one of the "T" brake blocks we used had the wrong angle of american style face for the flare. We think it was a defective part.

But it damaged our brake lines and dad had to re-flare and repair. Ended up taking way too long, but I suppose things like that are bound to happen.

Regarding the last picture of the shock bolts. here is a picture of the stock they were made from:

And here is a picture of the seat mount spacer made from the same stock. The seat needed a tiny spacer to help with fittment. They have a welded on mounting nut, so the spacer was machined out to fit that nut. Came out really nice:

As mentioned, finally got all the brakes bled and sorted.
Front and rear are all using KFP gold pads. I really have had good experience with these on the track and have been using them for years.

Rear rotors are not allowed to be vented (my old car was)
They also do not allow cross drilled. So these are stock 914/6 solid rotors that AJRS hand machined the slots into. Rear brakes must remain porsche from the era, so were just using front early calipers moved back, as we have had good experience in the past with similar set-ups.

Brant
Just read your latest, on your simply,outrageous,painstaking,awsome piece of work! you make building a race car, a beautiful work of art!.
American Choppers and Hot Rod?

Move over, this IS what it's about, AND RACE! :driving
Ha-ha-ha- - -

Sweet Holy Moses!

Damn, Brant (and Brant-dad)... this is the first time I actually saw this thread. The car looks great.. keep up the great work and pictures!

Thanks Kevin and thanks Jason...
(Jason good to hear from you)
dang I hope to drive it this spring still.

Got the rear sway partially installed this weekend:

for the top part of the bracket we used an aluminum block. The locks are aluminum too. Mike Mueller turned me on to these, and they work really nice!

Brant, I think you have 2 locks more than needed
(1 lock per side is enuf)

QUOTE (Jeroen @ Feb 22 2005, 05:41 PM)

Brant, I think you have 2 locks more than needed (1 lock per side is enuf)

Jeroen,

I only have 2 total.
probably do to my homemade mounts, I seemed to have more room on the drivers side than passengers. I would have rather had them on the right, but they fit better on the left. Only 2 total though.

Still haven't installed the dzus fasteners, but the roof panel is nearly done. I took 36grit paper on an electric grinder and cut out the rear brace entirely. Also thinned the entire panel. (in fact I thinned it a bit too much and had to go back and fix a spot where I started going through)..

New roof weighs 11lbs

plus I've now got a decent slot over the targa bar to vent air:

Here is one of the rear edge of roof when installed:

Thanks to Mark/cloudbuster, here is shot of the roof with a good front rubber:

last one of the rear view:

I think you did a awsome job on the fuel cell and oil cooler setup looks great , i am making a custom fuel cell for the shop 914 race car.

QUOTE (9144guy @ Mar 7 2005, 09:00 PM)

I think you did a awsome job on the fuel cell and oil cooler setup looks great , i am making a custom fuel cell for the shop 914 race car.

thanks for the kind words...

tulsa huh...
you must be a regular at hallet, I'd guess.

got a bit more work done over this weekend.
My liscensing school is in 4 days... doesn't look like I'll be driving the orange car in it. Heck last year I did the school in my ford focus, so I think I'll be repeating that.

Anyways the car is coming along and starting to "feel" like the end is at least in sight. Here is the fire supression system plumbed and mounted. Front nozzle over pumps and cell:

Dad made up a full wiring harness to save weight over stock. All of the wiring is from aircraft supply and is of slightly lighter weight than average. The battery cable is in that last shot (red), and fits inside the yellow sheath with the rest of the loom. Here is one angle of the bottle. I had intended to put the battery next to the bottle originally, but will now be moving the battery to keep a little bit of passenger foot room for when I'm instructing in my own car:

same bottle other view (shows pull cable, and cockpit fire nozzle):

Engine nozzle:

More wire loom:

Ferg, I kinda snuck this picture in on ya:

More wiring loom. The engine bay is starting to look very full:

Simply awesome Brant. Please tell Bob I said so, and "Hi!" for me.

How about some pics of the new Focus?!?!

Back of engine bay. Alternator and starter are wired in. We had to figure out a replacement diode to excite the charging circuit and then a seperate relay to trigger our large alternator/cooling fan warning light.

Here is the new vent hose and also where we installed the regulator:

QUOTE (Gint @ Mar 15 2005, 03:24 PM)

Simply awesome Brant.  Please tell Bob I said so, and "Hi!" for me. How about some pics of the new Focus?!?!

I'll tell Bob, but he reads along here regularly.
I've been trying to get him to register

you mean the big tomato?
I'll wash it up and take one.
twas the only color brighter than the yellow car
ha...

Heat shield on the oil line where is runs by the fuel line (trying to keep that fuel cool)

Tiny bit more wiring.
Brake lights will be the only exterior lights on the car. We are running them off of a very short ground and only a single power wire: (less wires = less weight)

tail lights installed:

I am curious as to what type of plug wires you are using on the engine, solid or spiral?

Did I miss the info about the B&M shifter?

Nice, I didn't weigh the shift knob to see if it is lighter than stock, but i'm sure you did!
Ferg

QUOTE (seanery @ Mar 15 2005, 03:48 PM)

Did I miss the info about the B&M shifter?

pretty sure that info is classified

John,
I'm not sure and will have to check. I've got to shorten my coil wire so will figure it out soon. They were on the motor when I bought it and look to be brand new. Motor was built by Henry Schmidt at Supertec and I assumed he put on what he generally uses.

Sean,
Shifter hmmm... how to say this. Well, I don't want to take away any credit from James' shifter. This is built off of a modified B&M that AJRS mods and sells. I haven't driven it yet so I honestly can't say how it works. I spoke with James about it and the rennshifter may have some things going for it that this one does not... plus the rennshifter is more affordable too. But this one is highly recommended by AJ and thats why I went with his. I place a ton of weight into his advice.

Mike Ferguson: little bit lighter!

Nice looking job. If the wires are solid core you'll have to change to the spiral type because of the MSD box I think, unless they have changed their requirements? Might want to check before you fire it up the first time.

QUOTE (john rogers @ Mar 16 2005, 09:02 AM)

Nice looking job. If the wires are solid core you'll have to change to the spiral type because of the MSD box I think, unless they have changed their requirements? Might want to check before you fire it up the first time.

John,
Thanks for the advice. I'll look into it. I love all the help, and thanks a ton to you and everyone!

Installed some heat wrap on the oil line from the tank to motor... Intention is to keep some of the header heat out of the oil:

Here's another thing to think about. I wrapped all my lines on the race car but found that when I washed the engine off after a race weekend such as at Phoenix where it rained, they became a soggy mess and would generate tons of steam when they got hot. I finally took that off and made some removable blanket types for the lines.

Well, the dash top or pod over the gauges is finally installed and complete. I've got to throw out a HUGE thankyou to Dr. Evil on this one. Mike did such a nice job getting it smoothed out and covered. It was really in bad shape and cracked. Since the dash is moved forward about 6inches from stock, we had to custom shape all of the edges to fit the non-stock dash contours:

QUOTE (john rogers @ Mar 16 2005, 09:12 AM)

Here's another thing to think about. I wrapped all my lines on the race car but found that when I washed the engine off after a race weekend such as at Phoenix where it rained, they became a soggy mess and would generate tons of steam when they got hot. I finally took that off and made some removable blanket types for the lines.

more good advice.

I know the orange heat cover and the silver heat cover on all the fuel lines are the blanket type, but the one on that pictured oil line is a wrap... Its and adhesive style that may or may not give me problems. I'll definitely mull that over and watch it. Thanks again John.

Hope people aren't sick of the dash pictures yet.
It was such a ton of work and I'm really happy with the way it came out. Probably explains the shutter happy picture count:

Last dash shot. You can more clearly see some of the custom contouring that went into making the pod fit the remaining dash:

Clean parts!

I love the dash! Race bread, but still 914, great work! I love pic's, so snap away and post my friend!

Thanks Dan. Regarding the dash that was exactly what I was shooting for. 914 - looking.

My latest six project is no race car, but some of what you have done here has inspired me to do certain things on my 914. One thing I love about this club is the great ideas you get from other 914 owners. So thanks for that!

I don't suppose you have a picture of the car as a whole handy? I gotta check the back pages of this thread......

Not really any whole pictures. On the first page there is a side view of the chassis in whole (with the doors/hoods/roof missing).

There is also a whole picture from the seller in the "before" state.

I should be mounting body panels and doors before too long and will have some shots at that time. I've got a few more body panel tricks up my sleeve.