Where to start....

We'll, I know there has been a lot of talk about this car but no pictures previously...

thanks to all the helpful advice I finally got my first camera, and thanks to some tech support from members of this group I think I finally figured out how to use it also...

First off in this thread, I wanted to recognize someone...
I want to recognize my father.
the "project" below is largely the results of his efforts and hard work... Its been a ton of hard work and it wouldn't be possible without him... He doesn't hear it enough from me, but I really appreciate him and what he has done for me.

Now for the pics...
the first one is a PPI picture from the seller when I bought it around 3 years ago. We got it running and drove it for 3 months before starting the demolition almost 2 years ago:
(drum roll please for my first ever pic)

These are just some PPI pictures of the rear trunk... The chassis is a 1972/4

It was really rust free...
we decided to go with the -4 since I would of changed nearly every single thing on a -6 anyways...

our local vintage rules allow 1972 or older only...
so we took the best 1972 or earlier car that we could afford...

here are some photos from the seller that I want to document for posterity:

Uno mas...

Good for you

Post often with pics.
You don't want to get the TTIWWP's bomb dropped on you!

KT

keep em coming!

Wow...
just another example of the great help from admins here..
let me try this again.

this is a full view picture.
we spent about 18 months doing the welding, chassis prep, body work, metal fender flares, and priming.

we broke down and had someone else shoot the paint we had bought in order to save time.

the body is not perfect as its a race car
class rules require all metal... no fiberglass
so the fenders were done by cutting, prying, and welding in pieces of metal....

body could of been smoother, but didn't want to add much filler...

I wish I had a scanner so I could add some of the 18months worth of 35mm "in progress" pictures that I took...

anyways here she is:

We (my dad and I) always have run our old -4 race car as a 2 driver car for drivers ed and club racing....

we always fought over heating even with our oil cooler through the hood/deep sump/accusump...

so this go around we decided to make sure that there would be no cooling issues... and we went with a pair of the fluidyne coolers.

for the vintage group we were not allowed a hood exit.
and since I strongly believe in not having a restrictive cooler exit, we chose not to compromise the exit to fit the fuel cell...

thus we wanted to try something different, and decided to go throught the head light area and into the fender well.....

here is a view of it:

the coolers are the twin pass fluidynes...

the fuel cell is a custom job...
we bought a bladder and our race shop got a guy to custom fab an aluminum shell for it...
The front bulk head is cut open so the shell slips back into it..

I've still got to add an oil line to connect the two front coolers

I've got to tell you guys...
I can't say enough about my race shop.
Its AJRS.
the guy (allen johnson) is seriously a genious.

next:

Here is a shot of the air exit.

also in this shot is some of the front suspension...

AJRS did a bit of custom fabricating on the koni's.
they are split and sectioned with a bit removed.
creates a body drop

inside the koni's are shortened Carrera shocks (front and rear)
they are customed valved for my weight and suspension.
don't know how they work, but can't wait to try.

oh.. mueller bearings in there too but not visisble.
we're going to use the drop kit for the spindles.
(changing the spindles on the strut was not legal, and neither were the cross drilled rotors)

Here is the cooler on the other side...
also a close up of the front hood mount.

Inside each of the fenders I glued in a piece of neopreme material...

I learned this on my old race car.
you can get it at certain upholstry shops.
it stops all of the rock stars from sticky tires...

Looks great. Keep the pics coming.

Race class rules allow no weld in bracing... only bolt in.
we wanted to do something to strengthen the front points.

Found this amazing bar.
It was in a metal scrap yard.
not sure if its even aluminum or what.

It is so hard!
perhaps anodized for hardness?

anyways when we went looking for ends to thread into it, we had to go to a specialized bolt place...
the old guy behind the counter had to make some calls because he couldn't determine the thread either...

turns out its RAF (british-aircraft) thread.
not used anywhere else.
I could of ordered a bolt from england for $40 bucks or something... So instead we had a machine shop make us some ends.

here is a shot of it installed through the front trunk floor, just infront of the cell.

Oh... on the cell. We were told not to go too small due to it being a -6 and a 2 driver car, so its a 15 gallong jobbie:

fuel system...
I learned from AJ that its tough to get the last 2-3 gallons from a cell.

we didn't want to needless carry the extra weight, so we used his fuel injection pump set up.

It supposedly will get the cell dry to the last cup. He runs it in the F.I. race cars because they are super sensitive to pressure variation.

one pump (holley) pulls fuel from the cell to an accumulator. (Fuel first goes through a filter) The accumulator is really an oil accumulator that he mods and welds some fittings to. There is an overflow line for when the accumulator is full.

A second pump (facet) pulls from the accumulator and feeds the carbs. We ran the standard brake line through the tunnel and then picked up with shielded stainless on the back side...

you can also see how the cell sticks through the bulkhead and nearly against the sway bar

there is a mess of twisted stuff in this shot but here goes:

Since all of these are front trunk pictures... here are the rest of the front things...

This is the other side of the front cowl area.
we drilled everything we could for lightness.
dad ran the oil lines very cleanly...

we closed up the holes with aluminum glued in place using professional panel adhesive.

here is one:

Another front item...

boy... posting pictures is fun!

These are the replacement front headlight covers that dad made. They are aluminum of course..

Rules said "metal" so I'm assuming aluminum is ok.

Also, here are the front turn signal replacements... rules require no plastic or glass lenses...

JOHN KELLEY made these up and I can't thank him enough. Beeeutiful:

More body. I'm pretty proud of the fenders.
I did a set by hand on my first race car and they were smoother.. but on this set I went for clearance up deep in the top since I intend to really lower it.

No pictures yet, but we're running custom length carrera shocks (with the custom valving) on the rear too. Hope to get really low.

When we started building this 2 years ago our vintage group would only allow 60series tires.

Now they've changed that rule, so we hope to use the 225/50's...

Oh.. I almost forgot. There was a thread last month about mounting engine lids. Our lid (camera wouldn't hold any more pictures) has a forward pointing rod that slips into the hole at the top of the firewall.

here is the rear flare, its more obvious in real life than this picture:

Another shot of the same fender....
also visible is the cool little aluminum trim piece that dad made up to hold down the forward edge of the sail panel vinyl:

A little bit of motor pic snuck in that one.
Here is another. Motor was built by Henry Schmidt of SuperTec Its a 2.0/6 "S" motor on an aluminum 66 case.

Motor was a back up of Phil Van Buskirks, so he built his vintage 67S-911 on his original serial number'd block and built his back up on a 2nd block...

when phil sold his car, he had this back up motor which has yet to ever have oil put into it. I bought it from him and Henry shipped it straight to me.

Very stock with only oiling mods, rod mods, and an oil pump upgrade.

I was very impressed with his work. All hardware was even done correctly, all replated and powdercoated the fan even:

You can't see it in this shot, but here is a fuzzy one with the tranny installed.

AJ lightened the flywheel and its got 3 seperate 6inch long windows around the edge where he lightened it.
(he calls it stage 3)

Were also running the aluminum presure plate out of our old -4 car.

The box is my old race box from the -4 car. Its a locked diff with A/F/K-L/S/X gearing. Not optimum for this car, but just freshened and good enough to start with.

We hope to build up a new box for the 2006 season, but couldn't afford it right now.

Oh.. one more thing. Dad made a very cool -6 motor dolly on rollers. It as low as he could get it and still slip a jack underneath. Makes install much better:

Its way past my dinner time so only another one or two for tonight...

Here is the seam welding on the rear towers outside:

Here is the seam welding on the rear towers inside..

Jeroen, I mentioned this once a while back... I don't have to tell you not to over look this area. 1/2 of the rear seams are inside. You can't see them due to all the body filler the factory puts in there. you can grind that crud out with a wire wheel and then get to them.

I don't have a pic of it, but I also cut open to access the frame end in the engine bay. Right where it butts up to this tower. We welded that and then closed the access portal back up.. Welded it closed and you can barely tell after a bit of grinding

here she is from beneath:

too much fun...
I've gotta go for now.

I'll send a couple more tomorrow.

brant

dOOd, that is one sweet project!!!

Based on my vaguely similar (but not nearly as CLEAN) car, that gem will be an effin' blast to drive when she is ready to hit the track.

BTW if John Kelley wants to make & sell those turn signal covers I'd be interested

What kind of wheels are you planning to run? I have not yet bitten the bullet to cram 225's under my car but to be competitive, I'd have to do that on 15x7's or 16x7's depending on the organization.

Nice work!

Really great loking work! I'd keep a close eye on the rear side of the front oil cooler to see if the tires throw much rubber? MY Goodyears can fill up the area under the turn signal buckets on a race weekend. Also if you have not decided on a shifter and such I'd strongly recommend one of Jim's Rennshifts and also one of the aircraft type coupler and there will be no slop in the shifter at all. Again, beautiful job....

Very nice, It looks like it will be a real nice ride

Wow Brant. This was sure worth the wait over the pictures
Looks like you have a very well thought out and clean package.
Absolutely amazing and definately a source of inspiration

brant,

the car looks awsome. i didn't catch which club you are running with.

can't wait to see her finished.

Thanks for all the feed back fellas...
I was so excited to get some of these picture out because I wanted to thank you guys mostly...

Seriously, I've been warehousing tidbits and advice form everyone and I can't begin to explain all of the favors that club members have done for me...

All of the admins have helped me out a ton..
Especially Ginter since he is so close to me..
he has shuttled things for me, wrenched on other cars for me, etc...

not to exclude anyone either, I have chatted with 50people to run ideas by them.
------------

synthesisdv:
its Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing out here...
they are part of the larger co-op, so I should be eligible for a couple of out of state events each year if I ever travel. Their rules are kinda weird compaired to other areas. When I started the project the car had to be a 6cylinder as no -4's were allowed. Now they have loosened up and will allow 1.7 fours only in a lower class.

Another of their rules was that the -6 had to be a 2.0 as no real six cars were built 72 or earlier with bigger motors (I know about the 916, but nobody had picked that fight yet). They also just changed their rule about tires so I get to run the 50series as previously mentioned. They also allow no fiberglass, no bracing tubes, no roll cages to suspension points... They are very stock in appearance and kinda old school. They only allowed 67 or earlier cars until just 3 years ago when they changed their rule up to 1972.

John:
good tip on the rubber in the fender wells. I'll keep an eye on it. I've got a really trick shifter already. Its an AJ special. I'm embarrased to say that I sold my rennshift that I had intended to use. AJ makes a shifter that has a bit more adjustability and he highly recommended that I go with his. He also has a few coupling tricks that I incorporated and when I get to lamar next time I'll get some shifter shots added.

Chris:
Yeah John Kelley said that he might be open to selling these when I had him make mine. I promised him I would post pictures and make noise about them. The lack of a digital camera slowed the process down, but I really liked they way they came out. I have a little mounting Idea which I will show after I've tried it.

Regarding wheels. our race class allows a maximum of 7's and will not allow 16inchers.... So we are going with 15x7 fuchs. I used to run 15x7 cookies on my 4 cylinder ex-race car so I used them as a fittment tool when I pounded out these fenders. I think they will clear, and I think they will clear even when dropped an extra inch or two.

Couple more pictures.

I don't think I mentioned earlier. The car is in my fathers garage 4hours away. I try to make 1-2 weekend trips each month with an 8 hour driving time. We work on the car on saturday's and half of sunday before I drive home.

This makes it a bit difficult to speed up the process too much. Also makes it kinda difficult for me to easily get more pictures now that I have a camera.

Hopefully I'll be down there once in november and can get a bit more done. Goal is to have it running in time for april events in colorado. We are really jonesing to do some driving as we decommissioned our -4cylinder race car after the 2002 season in order to steal and sell all of the race parts from that chassis.

That car is a 1974, and since the local vintage association only allows 1972 or earlier we had to start over from scratch.

anyways here is a roll bar picture. We stole this cage out of the 4cylinder race car. It is (or was) a safety devices cage. AJ put some extra bars into it for us, so it is no longer a bolt in. Our rules only allow so many body points, and no suspension points, and no passing through other panels.

I particularly like the dash bar. A friend of mine out here busted his knee in a small shunt in his 67S 911 when he hit the below dash brace. We wanted something higher, so here is the AJ solution. I did all of the welding on the car except for these extra braces. (figured I didn't want to really test my skills in such an important way)

you can also see one of the oil lines running forward:

In this one there is more roll cage.
Also a bit of the pedal cluster (with lightening holes)
We also lightened where ever possible, for example the center tunnel holes.....

here is that pedal cluster a bit more clearly:

Next, I've got a few motor bay shots.
In our old -4 race car, we ripped 2 rear suspension consoles out. There was no rust what so ever. I am a VERY strong believer in a brace bar system for the suspension ears on track cars.

my old -4 car had a very simple heim-jointed brace running to the firewall... another AJ idea from 12years ago. In 12 years of use it held up very well.

So in this car of course we were going to do another brace. AJ has updated his design and uses a bit more intricate brace this time. We tilted it over for a -6 more than the -4 install requires.

Here is a shot of the forward mounting area on the firewall.

you can also see my oil filter and heat wrapped gas lines in this shot.

Oh I forgot to mention the hell hole. A tiny repair was required. I incorporated a little "L" bracket to the firewall. On the interior side I made an extra large mounting plate for the back of the cage that has another "L" that is welded to the other side of this one..
(I'm not allowed to weld braces in, but I saw these as cage mounts and rust repair..ha):

Here you can see the rear mounting point for this console brace. Its welded to the frame where the -4 mounts are normally.

you can also see our fuel pressure regulator.

also note that we will not run any tin work or chassis tin in the engine bay.

finally here is bit of the motor mount. Its a patrick-bulkhead.

Oh.. picture doesn't show it, but on the outboard side of the rear suspension there is another heim joint that is a toe adjuster. It runs forward from the suspension cup and along the longitudinal. It bolts to the long, where the jack points used to be. You can barely see the mounting bolt for it in one of the first pictures with the exposed long. (no more jack points):

Dad made up the new hard brake lines.

This picture also show the motor mount a little better

We installed only 2 of the stiffening kit's plates (didn't want to add the weight but felt that these were important ones)

The firewall shift bushing is delrin. Its hand lathed to fit, and apparently each chassis and bar varies a tiny bit depending upon how they are worn... It was a sucker to install:

Very nice work.

The car seems to be very well thoughtout.

Chris

Yippie Brant has a camera! Now every else gets to see how cool your car is
Ferg

Brant:

Tho I knew you'd been plugging away at a racin' vehicle, I had no idea...........

The digital camera is a great investment for all of us.

Iff'n you have a chance, some close-ups of the suspension bracing would be a big help.....the strap thingy. It's all too Orange for these old eyes to make out clearly.

You'll have to answer to Captn' Crusty for that hole in the firewall, tho.

Many departures from the "normal" oil cooler set-up are cobbled messes. Yours is top drawer.....well thought out and executed......just my opinion

Are you gonna do 225 tiars at both ends?

Very nice car - Brant!

Can't wait to see it finished. I'll bet you can't either.

Looks pretty darn perfect to me! You and your dad have done a really nice job. Looking forward to next Spring and some track shots!

-Jeff

Thanks JP, that means a lot coming from you.

225/50 at both ends. (thats what I always ran on my -4 car too)

I'll get you some more pictures.
AJ will probably be willing to sell the parts as a kit if your really interested...

Afraid that I won't be back for 2-3 weeks to my dad's house so those pictures will take a while.

I was real happy with the coolers. Dad spent an unbelievable # of hours making the ducting out of aluminum. We had a friend in kansas who tried something similar but without the ducting... Didn't work for him on track, and he had to start over. So we paid a lot of attention to the ducting details.

brant

Let me try this re-sizing thing....

if this comes through, it is a better shot of the rear engine lid mount holes...

also a better shot of how the cage runs through the dash....

whoo..hooo... look at me Sean. I kinda got it.

brant

This is pure porsche PORN

This is beautiful work Dude!

Keep it up!!

Nice car! This thread/forum rocks!

Wow, beautiful job!

Your racing group is going to be sorry they opened up the model years to allow a 914 in there, especially a -6. I bet you'll clean a lot of clocks on the track with that car.

Great work!

That is one of the cleanest, most thought out cars that "I" have ever seen !!!!!
Keep up the awesome work!!!!!!! Most of all keep having fun with your pops and this car.

Look'n real good!



Keep it up!

Thanks sir,

I think my toughest competition will come from the 1972 911S' with the 2.4 motors...

There is one in particular that was built by a local race shop (3R automotive of speedvision GT fame) that is particularly well done and will be extremely fast with 8inch wheels and probably 240hp. I hope to have him beat on weight thou..

thanks everyone for the kind words.
Its dang nice and kind of you all.
brant