Ideally I'd like the car to be up and running ASAP, however I think realistically I'm another month or 2 out.

I did decide to keep my side markers and turn them into blinkers.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqZL8A2vMUk

Hi Mike,
Great progress. I like the side markers being blinkers. As small as our cars are the more lighting the better so people see and hopefully don't hit us.
Cheers,
Michael

Sweet! Any initial impressions of the InfinityWire you can share?

I have a love/hate relationship with the InfinityWire setup.

If I didn't have the radiator in the front trunk I would have mounted the Mastercell (inputs) and 1 Powercell (outputs) in there, that I think would have saved me some headache and install time. (they are rated for decently high temp) The system has so many features and options that they are really better suited for a vehicle with a lot more features like power windows, power doors. It can control on/off 12vdc or supply PWM signals (5% to 80% I think?)

The instructions and other videos are good, phone support is awesome. I have had a call a few times and every problem I had was resolved (operator issues, nothing major)



I was looking at buying the Ecumaster PMU16 right before I was offered the InfinityWire at a hard to pass deal. When I get to working on my '78 Volvo 242 I might revisit the idea of the PMU16 or similar. (Holley has great looking PDM , almost double the price)


https://ecumasterusa.com/products/ecumaster...t=8318139269181


.

That's where I am. I have an InfinityWire setup because the price was too good to pass up, and at the time nothing was even close to cost effective. A bit after I bought it ECUmaster unveiled their PDM. The part that really bugs me is that you need IW to supply the programming anytime it needs to be changed. They've been saying since 2018 that they would be releasing a package for user's to program, but that still doesn't exist... I would far rather have something user programmable which is in a single box, but that means spending more money, etc.

Glad to see it working for you!

@tygaboy

Challenge accepted.

All of my light controls (and future ignition/starting controls) are factory switches.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cbiriMVVfQ




@jd74914


I just spoke with Jay @ Infinity, he said the diy programmer should be done in a few months, said the Covid thing messed it up from being released back in April.

Yep, you guys have all the cool stuff.

Be well!


Bob B

It's ON!

Mike - Looking very good! I really like those LED light boards. Maybe a future upgrade for me...
I am going to run the factory ignition switch as I want to retain the steering lock and have one key for the whole car. Keep up the great work!

I'm getting dizzy...

Great seeing the progress on this @Mueller ! Also interesting to watch two custom wiring installations on a teener happening in parallel.... (you and @Tygaboy )

- Tony

That's awesome-finally! Every time I've talked to Jay its been coming, hopefully this is it. Have to say I do like the guy, he responds so quickly/completely every time we've communicated.

Nothing ground breaking, just doing a few small items on the car.
Made a battery hold down bracket.
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I didn't care for the stock heavy aluminum intake manifold so I made an adapter to use the stovk Honda throttle body.

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Wow, great work on the milled parts! Looks fantastic!

Progress is progress. Keep nipping away at it!

Which manifold is that from? Lookin good

Outboard motor

I'm really pushing this water cooled conversion using boat parts.

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Back to working on the cooling system. I had to tap the heads to clean up the M28 threads. No idea why the heads had the holes tapped im tje 1st place, these are the outlets going to the radiator.

I'll be using hoses instead of the stock Honda aluminum water manifold.

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Looking good Mike. Have you done your axels yet?

Thanks...no, I have not installed the axles. I need to make an adapter for the larger CV joints (transmission side only since I have the larger stub axles on the trailing arms)

Woah, What witchcraft is used to keep the crank lubricated on the top cyl journals and keep the oil out of the cylinders on the bottom?

There is a write up in Apple News about that very same thing. Might have been in the Popular Mechanics section. Multiple & separate head thermostats on the Marine version as well. The guy in Alaskan waters Has different cooling needs than the guy in the Caribbean.

Looking good Mike! Keep up the 914 therapy!

Looking for one of these?

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/y-block-male-1...black/yblk-1616

I'll have to look that up, Very crazy!! Imagine installing an engine like that in a car!

Have not touched the 914 in a few weeks, other projects around the house and such.

Decided to make my own "wye" fitting today. It also gave me a chance to learn how to threadmill NPT threads. These are 3/4-14 NPT for the fittings to connect the hoses.

It will be 2 inlet and 1 outlet going to the radiator.


The video is showing my machine cutting the threads. The same cutter can cut multiple thread pitches, internal and external.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azz8zstPheM


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Thats pretty trick how it mills the threads one at a time!

How difficult is that to program and setup?

Mike - Thanks for posting stuff like this. I love your build and your "do whatever it takes" attitude. Your one-of-a-kind parts like this are like sprinkles on the frosting!
Keep up the great work.

That is a pretty cool video—thank you for posting it, and I too dig this thread.

Keep it up, Mike—the car is going to be super cool when you get it running. That engine sounded great in Harry's 914.

Not the most ideal material, didn't have any copper and I'm tired of spending money on this car so aluminum will do for now.

Need to see if I have some delrin or see if my 3D printer still works to make a cover for it.

The 3 large 12vdc lines are for the starter (1) and the other 2 go to the Powercells.

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Wow! Great design and super clean look.

Nothing wrong with aluminum as a conductor....looks great.

Not unless your house was wired with it. Granted it wasn't the material but the installer. You as a fireman probably know this all too well.

Our home AC is wired using aluminum wire, the circuit breaker kept tripping until I realized the at the box was loose. A few turns till nice and tight and no more problems.


I did look up the charts for bus bar ampacity and figured this thickness should be fine for the 914.

Exhaust is back on, took some trial an error finding the correct gaskets from the headers to the down tubes. Finally found an online catalog for Walker.

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The cooling system is all done, tomorrow I hope to fill it and test it. It was recommended that I drill a few small holes in the thermostat. I am using an inline unit.

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In order to fit my throttle body I needed to counter bore the adapter for 2 of the screws.

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Mike, this is the exact situation that caused the fires. Loose connections caused arcing. Arcing caused black sooted buildup which in turn causes high resistance and heat build up to the point of ignition. The preventative fix is a cheap compound that electrical supplies will have. IIRC, it is called No-Lox or something like that. Coat the wire ends at wire nuts or other junctions. It will prevent arcing. We used the stuff when changing out electric water heaters but I haven't seen any aluminum wiring in years so we no longer carry it.

Machinist extraordinaire!

I've always enjoyed seeing what Mike was turning out of bare stock.

we need a new Meuller emoji
One that is operating a lath

New houses in my area went to stranded AL wire for 220v circuits. The solid copper is too expensive I guess. A corrosion inhibitor is a must in that situation. We noticed the lights dim when the AC kicks on less than a year into our house. Guess what the builder didn't do to the 220v connections. In the end I had to clean up all the connections in the circuits and add the NOALOX. Not sure how a 12v connection would hold up, but seems like cheap insurance.

Great build, I love the Honda v6. Eventually I'll stuff one in a Bay bus.

The PO of my 914 told me the transmission is in need of internal work, I'm going to drive as is for now. (Once I do drive it)

However this 2014 WRX 5 speed with 30K miles just happened to go up for sale not too far from me. I hope I can sell the rear diff to offset the cost.

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^^ practically bolts to my Nissan motor, so maybe you'll be as lucky. Only a 32mm thick adapter plate and a little machining to the Suby flywheel. A Nissan truck clutch slave bolts on and is lower profile.

The center diff is usually worth a bit more then the coupler. But knowing you... you'll probably be machining your own, in which case I can use one

Nice score Mike! Yes the center diff is one of the weak points on AWD cars so it's worth $$$ and you pull it out to convert to 2WD. I think I sold mine for $250 way back in 2012.

We have a runner, Part 2.

Since the last time I posted the motor running I have done a few things that made me question whether or not it would ever run again.

Replaced vehicle wiring with Infinitybox CAN bus system.

Took apart the factory Honda engine wiring harness, removed a few feet from it due to it being too long. Also recovered all the wires.

Installed new intake manifold which required me to come up with a new way to control the throttle body. In the end I used a /6 throttle cable and made an adapter to screw on a short section of cable to attach to the Honda TB.

Next will be using the Amazon sourced cooling system vacuum purge and coolant refill kit to get all the air out of the system. So far no leaks.

Now to get insurance for it so I can register it to test it out on the street.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhqoTxPJ7KQ

Awesome!!

Mike - That is AWESOME!!! Great work all around. Can't wait to see it in person, and catching up with you at WCR.
Again, way to go, dude!

Long time coming, congrats.

Nice work Mike! It sounds great.

Congrats Mike, I hope to see your car in person soon.
Stay Safe...

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So awesome, keep up the great progress!

Had to happen soon!