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He has everything.

I knew someone smarter than me would figure it out.
Once Tom gets set up with one, I could use one.

I emailed Garold to see if He has any of these. I am not inclined to disassemble the front suspension to slide this on to the streeting column. I bet I could split it and fit it over the end of the column and then glue it back together with weather stripping adhesive.

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I looked around my shop but didn't find one. I'll take a look around my garage too.

No luck on finding a replacement steering shaft bushing/seal so I improvised and tried a rear shock top bushing pair. The ID matches the steering shaft pretty close and closes up the hole nicely. Since I had gone ahead and completed the front suspension, I split the lower side of the bushing and fitted it over the steering shaft. Seems to work OK.

Next I will move to the rear suspension while I await the corrected new wiring harness from Restoration Design.

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With the front suspension together and torqued to spec, I moved to the rear suspension.

Yesterday I installed the rear bearings and hubs in the trailing arms and proceeded to install the RHS arm, shock and brake rotor.

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All seemed to going as planned until I tried to install the brake caliper. A significant misalignment problem.

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It seems like the rotor is a good 1/2" too far outboard to align with the trailing arm tabs and the caliper. The combination of parts is:

'69-'73 911 hubs and stub axles
Early non vented 911 rotors with the diameter trimmed as recommended
Stock '73 914-4 rear calipers

I based this combination on recommendations from our members with previous experience.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=363935&hl=

I was not expecting a problem. Any suggestions? I am stuck at this point.

Tom if I remember correctly the hat of a 911 rotor is shorter than that of a 914 or
914 6.
Also, if you intend to run dust shields the bracket has to be included.

Tom,

You'll need the 914-6 rear rotors as the 911 offset is different.
If using the 914-4 rear calipers you have to turn down the o/d of the rotor to clear the caliper. Pretty sure that's how it all works together. Maybe Eric can chime in on this to confirm.

I have a sets of 911, 914-4, 914-6 rotors around. I'd have to dig them out and see what's off with all of them.

Otherwise looks good.

Luke and Rory

Thanks for chiming in. I was aware the solid rotors needed to be turned down 3 mm. I did that to these rotors. I did not realize that the 914-6 rotors had a different offset as compared to the 911 rotors.

The 911 solid rotors I am using have an offset distance (from the inside mount face to the inside friction surface) of around 62 mm.

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Luke or Rory....If either of you could check the offset on your 914-6 rotors, that would be most helpful.

Another update...I checked the P/N on my rotors and found that I am using the SWB 911 version of the solid rotor (P/N 901-352-401-10). I was advised that the LWB version of the solid rotor (P/N 901-352-4-1-17) for the '69T and 912 would work. I am guessing that this rotor has the same offset as the 914-6 and is very different that the SWB rotors I have now. I do not have one of these in my stash to check.

Rory measured the offset on a 914-6 rotor. He got 73 mm which is about 11 mm deeper than the 911 SWB rotor I have. That is about the thickness of the mount flange on the trailing arm so I think my mystery is solved. I believe the 911 LWB solid rotor has the same offset and will work for me once I trim 3 mm off the OD.

My mistake...I bought the wrong rotors.

Having solved the mystery with my rear brake rotors, I went on the complete the rear suspension minus the brakes.

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So now I need a pair of non-vented rear brake rotors. I think either the 914-6 rotors or the '69 911T or 912 rotors will work. I think the 911T/912 rotors will need to be reduced in OD by 3 mm. What is the difference between these and the 914-6 rotors?

Anyone have a NOS pair to sell?

Hi Tom, I have a new pair (but need to doublecheck tonight that they are true 914-6). Do you ever get near north of boston? These are heavy to ship

I got my 911T/912 rotors at flaps. Advanced auto. They are owned by Worldpac so they can order most anything. These days you can order online as well.
I don’t believe 914-6 rotors have provisions for the 911 ebrake. That’s more of an Eric Shea question than for me. Mine actually fit right out of the box but it had 2mm taken off just in case they expanded when hot.

Hi Mark

Thanks for your reply. It seems like these are available new retail at around $100 each plus shipping. Much less than the '69T rotors. I am not sure what the differences are between the two types. I could be a buyer if they will work for my application.

OEM 6 rear rotor no provision for ebrake shoes.
Sorry Tom, no spares to sell.

As luck would have it, I was up in the Boston area this weekend visiting family and was able to meet up with Mark. He sold me a nice NOS set of 914-6 rear rotors that fit my hubs, calipers and trailing arms perfectly.

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I will clean this up, reinstall, torque down the suspension and move forward.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

dust shield bracket ... thickness ...missing

Yeah...I am not planning to run the dust shields, but I will see if the brackets make a difference in centering the calipers on the rotors.

Thanks

I figured out my rear brakes and got the spacing correct with thin washers instead of the dust shields. Fitted a set of SWB 911 drilled pads to the LHS but the RHS inner caliper piston needed adjustment to slip the new pad in. As luck would have it, no inner adjuster gear in the caliper. PMB did the brakes. Called them, no explanation why, but they are sending me near gears.

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In the meantime, my corrected, new 914-6 wiring harness came back from Restoration Design. Thanks to Peter who corrected it for the front dual fuel pumps and had it back to me in less than 2 weeks. I am very happy with the quality and workmanship on this harness. The installation YouTube video made it a breeze. I am in the process of finalizing the exact placement especially in the front trunk where the original wire routing will clash with the oil cooling system.

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Outstanding progress; that is going to be so beautiful.

More wiring pics. It seems like every factory GT did things a little differently with regards to the front trunk wiring.

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Looking great, I love the color and feel like I need a bright green car in the stable.

Wow, paint looks beautiful, you are doing a first class job! I also love the color, perfect for a -6.

Sweet ! really like the car without seam foam sprayed all over the place. Supper

Tom - did you use seam sealer on the car or are you leaving it bare?

That is a good question...I don't believe that Auto Associates used any seam sealer. I will confirm that with them. There is a very light undercoating on the bottom and in the rear of the wheel wells.

I was wondering the need for it on an e-coated car. I haven’t decided yet.

I spoke with Ken, co-owner & Body Shop Manager at Auto Associates.

Seam sealer was used mostly under the fenders and qtrs, where gaps were a little large. Nothing in the top side or interior. Based on the photos of other GT cars, it looked like they did not have any and they most certainly did not put the spray seam sealer on seams like factory cars.

Car looks fantastic! Colour pops against the parts being added. Yes i'm sure there is a significant lack of seam sealer on the R cars as weight saving was the name of the game.
cheers

Had a chance to spend a few hours on the car today. I fit the front turn signals and rear taillights. These will of course be removed before final body work and paint but I want to complete and check out the electrical system first.

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I installed the front headlights and then decided to fit the mechanical GT headlight kit to make sure I had all the pieces and understood how to make the system work. I had purchased a partial kit from a member of our board but it was missing all the wire cables, a couple of the cable barrel keepers and any assembly/installation instructions. The detailed photographs provided by Armando Serrano in his epic 914-6 GT posting on Pelican saved my butt and more than made up for the lack of instructions.

I used spare 911 hood release wire cables that I have in my stash of parts and was able to fabricate the missing cable barrel keepers for the cable splitter. It was a trial-and-error process with many assembly/test/disassembly cycles before I finally managed to get both headlights to lock and release.

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Wow...I can't believe it has been a month since my last posting. Holiday get togethers and a post-Christmas bout with Covid kept me away from the car for a few weeks.

Since getting back into it, I have focused on the electricals for the dash switches and gauges. The detailed wiring diagram provided by Restoration Design that came along with the new harness I purchased from them is making the job much easier. Next up will be the turn signal/high beam switch and the wiper switch. I expect that I will need to make up some custom harnesses to make the connections from the 911 switches I am using to the 914-6 harness.

One question for the experts....I have (3) wires that I have yet to identify. I circled these in the last photo. I am guessing that the red wires are unswitched power leads for things like an alarm system or a clock. The single black wire is a mystery to me. Behing the black wire sheath are twin brown leads that do not connect to ground. I do not see them in the wiring diagram and I can't trace them to the fuse box. Any ideas what these are?

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I’m not sure what wiring harness you’re using. On the factory 9146 there is a kind of power distribution point. I will get a picture in a few minutes.
Matt

Upside down but you can see the red wires
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What's the best way to re-attach the gauge wiring. Mine sure looks like a rats-nest of wires after removing them for rebuild.

Looks to me like not putting the dash top on would make wiring the gauges. Much easier.
Matt

Thanks Matt.

Your explanation makes perfect sense to me. The connection between the two sets of red wires must provide the power feed to the dash harness. It looks like some sort of insulating block is used as a bracket to connect the two wires together and then secure it to the chassis. Is that correct? I think I’ll have to search for that part. Any ideas on the black sheath wire with the two browns beneath the sheathing?

Tom - just found this thread and "binged" through it. Excellent build and great color choice! For my own GT build, I chose Gelbgrun as a color, not too far from Lizard green I suspect.

The pix of the metalwork alone was complex enough and made me thankful for how solid my starting point was on my build. Keep the posts coming!

- Tony

The best part about you trying to figure out what this is. I also was trying to figure out what the two brown wires were for. The 914 six I restored has not been driven and has been tore apart for over 20 years. It’s a learning game for me too. Thanks, Pete at restoration design for answering it.
Matt

I found the insulator block in my stash and installed it. All good now with keyed power to the switches and gauges. I also realized that the black wire is for the door switches.

Thanks All!

Finally finished up the electrical wiring today. As always, one of the more challenging tasks to get everything to function properly. The job was pretty straight forward with the new 914-6 harness and wiring diagram from Restoration Design. The most challenging part was creating a custom harness to mate the NOS 1969 911 T/S switch to the chassis harness. It took several days of head scratching and studying the wiring diagrams to get it right. I had a nice, bare 12 pin connector and 6 pin plug in my stash that allowed me to create a mating harness without having to modify the 911 T/S switch. It looks ugly but it works. The 911 wiper switch was straight forward plug and play into the Restoration Design 914-6 wiper harness.

Next up will be fitting and possibly modifying the 911 clamshell to fit the steering column and dash.

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I did a trial fit of my 911 steering clamshell onto the 911 steering column today expecting that I would need to modify it to fit. Many of the threads I have read mentioned modifying both the top and bottom sections. I found that the clamshell fit nicely without any need for modification. I am guessing that the dash trim fascia plate will need some trimming to clear the bottom of the clamshell or that there may be a problem with interference with the dash kneepad. Am I on the right track with this or am I missing something?

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Well.... I found out, as did many before me, that the 911 clamshell interferes with the dash facia plate and the knee pad. I ended up having to trim the fascia plate and the bottom of the clamshell to get everything to fit properly.

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Tom,
I missed why you swapped to a 911 steering and clamshell?

Hi Lars

Since this is -6 GT tribute project, I wanted the GT look and feel in the cockpit. LHS ignition switch, 911 style T/S and wiper switches all required a swap to the early 911 steering column and clamshell.

Very nice. Love the color

Tom looks good. I need to revisit this on my car. It’s time to finish up some things I saved for later. Well it’s later.