Thanks Ben. The turn signal switch was the biggest challenge. Had to study the wiring diagrams for both the early 911 and the 914 six to figure it out. I have plenty of notes so if I can help in anyway let me know.

Thanks I need to address that very soon. Turn signals work great. No horn though. Need to get that figured out.

I’m using a 914 six wiring harness. On that, the horn connections came through the 12 pin connector in the chassis harness.

Oh so I used a 4 harness and that’s what I need to trace back.

Moving forward, I started the install of the oil cooling system. After some persuasion and fitting of weather stripping, I got the ductwork to fit over the chassis reinforcement bar near the inlet cut out and seal up nicely. I'll be using some stainless steel mesh screen to cover the outlet in the floor.

I am using two 11 foot sections of 12AN steel braided hose to run from the cooler to the T-stat. This seemed like the simplest solution and the hoses fit nicely in the enlarged openings in rocker sill brackets. I’ll be using a Mocal T-stat located somewhere in the lower RHS of the engine compartment.

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Very clean

My seats from Stefan at GTS Classics finally arrived yesterday. They are the Spa Francorchamps model. Well worth the wait!

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Hi Tom,

The Gt project looks like is coming along great.
Question about the front oil cooler install.

Are you using the PMS/Setrab oil cooler kit?

It looks like the cooler itself is mounted to the upper cooler housing (per post #192)
is that correct? Reason I ask is that I've seen it where some coolers are mounted to the chassis side vs the cooler cover. I purchased a steel replica GT oil cooler cover made by Mittlemotor in Germany to use on my 6 project. I never really saw a full install of this cooler setup being installed from start to finish. I've installed a cooler in my brothers 6 GT but mounted the cooler to the chassis side. I did use rubber insulators on my brothers cooler mounting points but still feel like that wasn't the correct way to do it.
I'm just wondering which way would be best or the correct way to do the install.

Thanks,

Hi Luke

The cooler is a Setrab 464 that I purchased from BAT. The cooling shrouds are fiberglass from Getty.

The cooler is bolted to a custom mount bar that then bolts to the top FG shroud.

Fitting this system to the chassis did present somewhat of a challenge as the added stiffness bar behind the cooler opening did interfere with the lower shroud. The FG construction did allow the lower shroud to be bent over the bar. The resulting gaps in the fit between the upper and lower shroud were filled with weather stripping form Home Depot.

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After some adjusting of the seat rails, I was able to install my new seats from GTS Classic. They look and fit great especially with the 380 mm repro steering wheel and new retro Repa belts.

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Put some black tar goo on top of the front shock towers, not only will it be period correct but it will also throw the concours guys for a loop.

Car looks great Tom! I wish I was this far along...I should have it back from paint next month and I can start the reassembly process.

Tom - I went for a similar plan & routing for the oil lines to/from the cooler; flexible AN lines from the thermostat (rear LHS in my build) up the rocker panels and popped through to the frunk. Less in-line connections to fail/weep than the hard lines.

Nice seats BTW! Keep the posts coming,

- Tony

In the plan, after alignment...Thanks

Production sixes had the black goop on the front strut towers for water ingress; in the photo records, I have noticed NO goop on any factory built GTs. FWIW,

- Tony

Love the seat choice

Seats are looking fantastic!

Antoine

Time for another update. Lots of distractions the past couple of weeks have kept me out of the garage.

Since my last update, one of the seats had to go back to Stefan for a headrest correction. I have to say that he was very responsive and turned the seat around very quickly.

I installed all the tunnel lines, cables, the Tangerine Racing shift bushing, the pedal cluster and the brake system. Just waiting on the rear soft lines and some crush washers to complete the system and do the bleeding. I was pleased to see that all the components seemed to fit nicely around the Mad Dog engine mount.

With the electricals now sorted, next up I plan to remove the metal dash, paint the cowl area satin black, complete the dash fascia, install the restored dash top and reinstall the dash. Once those tasks are complete, I plan to build the engine.

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Looks super clean.
Is this for the tangerine kit?

Thanks Mark

Those are the "dog-eared" attachments for the trailing arm pivot points stabilizers. Most factory GT cars used these. I am hoping the stabilizing rods will not interfere with my oil lines and T-stat that I am planning to locate underneath the engine sheet metal on the LHS of the engine compartment.

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I have the same kit and same as you, planning on hanging the thermostat in that location. Thanks for being the test pilot.

I am planning to use Ben McFarland‘s kit for the engine oil lines. The case suction line runs around the back of the engine and over the gearbox to the thermostat. Just like the Early 911. I’ll be using a Mocal thermostat . I know it’s a little tricky making some of the connections to the oil tank. My plan is to mount the engine first and then finalize the locations of the thermostat oil lines, CD boxes, coils, fuel lines, and throttle cable.

Another update.

With the electricals mostly sorted out, I decided to remove the dash and install the dash top and dash facia off the car. Everything I've read and seen says it much easier to install these on the bench. The dash top is the original that was restored by Just Dashes, Very nice. Since I am going with the GT look without the glovebox door and radio, we removed the lock surround on the dash and I fabricated a radio delete plate.

I also painted the dash cowl while the dash was out.

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Had the chance to spend a few consecutive days in the garage this week working on the 914.

I reinstalled the dash, reconnected the gauges & switches and rechecked the electricals. All good.

I then focused on the ventilation system. A lovely control panel from Dion arrived last week and found a home on my restored dash. I also installed the control boxes and cables following the great writeup from ElectroClassics EV.

https://914electric.wordpress.com/2011/03/18/take-the-heat/

I had to belt sand some of the plastic surface on the bottom of the LHS control box to get it to fit without too much force. Now I am looking forward to the control box holding clips courtesy of John Hora

The challenging task of installing the fan and fresh air plenum will wait until after the car has been painted to avoid any overspray through the cowl grills.

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Looks fantastic! Just curious why the wipers were installed before paint?

That looks beautiful Tom; great work.

I talked this over with the painter, Ken at Auto Associates, who has a tooling to cover the wiper shafts.

The Dash looks awesome!
Just beautiful work.

One of the best colors

I finished installing the seats & dash and then put the car on roller wheels & tires for some photos. Starting to look and feel like a car again. Next up will be the engine build.

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Wonderful seats!

Antoine

A few odds and ends before starting the engine build.

Made the AN connections to the front cooler. Also installed a pair of aftermarket horns (you can't see them through the grills...Right?). I also found a nice pair of Hella TN4's in my stash and installed them as well.

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Started the engine build this week. As a reminder, the engine will be a 3.2 short stroke base on a 3.0 SC case and crank. I will be using new 98 mm Mahle Motorsport 10.2 CR P&C's along with a JB Racing twin plug distributor and DC-60 cams from John Dougherty. The case, rods, cam towers, chain boxes and valve covers all went to Ollies for refurbishment. The heads were rebuilt and twin plugged by Bob Hirst at Anchor Atlantic and the SC oil pump was blueprinted by Glen Yee Motorsports. The crankshaft was cleaned, crack checked, cross drilled and micro polished by Armando at CCR. At Armando's recommendation, the main bearings were coated by HM Elliot to bring the main bearing clearances into spec. Induction will be 46 MM PMO's.

The first order of business was to check the main bearing clearances. I used plastic gauge and found the clearances were all between 0.002-0.003" right on target. I then reinstalled the crank without the plastic gauge and check for smooth even crank rotation. All good here as well.

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I moved on to check the rod bearing clearances. For these I used the dial bore gauge rather that the plastic gauge. I am using coated Clevite bearings from Auto Associates for the rod bearings. I installed the bearings in the rods, torqued them to spec using the old rod bolts and then measured the inner bearing diameters with my dial bore gauge zeroed on the average rod journal. Clearances measure between 0.002-0.003". Right where they should.

I then decided as a verification double check to weight each rod. I was not expecting any significant variation as they had been refurbished by Ollie's. To my surprise, one rod was heavy by about 10 grams. I removed the bearings and reweighed them and the results were the same. So goes the old saying, "Trust but Verify".

Needless to say, the rods are on their way back to Ollie's who promised to expedite and rebalance them at no charge.

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Odd question for you - about your crank from Armando - I see the tag, but does Armando etch or otherwise permanently mark either crank end with any markings?

I have a motor supposedly with one of Armando's cranks and would see if there is a way to verify.

Hi Jon

I have had a few cranks done by Armando and I am not aware of any special markings.

With the rods back off to Ollie's, I moved on to inspecting the pistons and cylinders, Installing the rings on the pistons and installing the pistons into the cylinders.

Everything checked out nicely on the P&C inspection as expected for a new Mahle set. Minimum variation in piston weights, good cylinder bore roundness and minimal taper Also good piston to cylinder clearances.

I then installed the piston rings and very carefully installed the pistons in the cylinders.

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I continued on the engine build while waiting for my connecting rods to come back from Ollie's.

I checked the IMS backlash to make sure it was within acceptable limits. I got 0.05 mm movement on the dial gauge.

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I then moved on to check the compression ratio using my CC burette volume checking setup. I checked each freshly rebuilt cylinder head to find the combustion chamber volume. All (6) measured between 89.5 and 90 cc's as expected for a 3.0 SC cylinder head. I then checked the piston dome volume using the same system and found piston #1 to be at 40 cc just as expected for this particular Mahle Motorsport piston. I only checked one piston assuming that the variation between brand new Mahle pistons will be insiginificant. Assuming I get 1 mm deck ht once I seal up the case and check, this will result in my target CR of 10.2:1.

Nice catch on the 1 rod. Even the experts miss the target once in a while. Your build is spectacular and I enjoy seeing the progress.

Finally got my rods back from Ollies. They did a nice job balancing them so that each rod is within 1/2 gram of each other. They expedited the job with one day turn around in their shop. UPS messed up on the return shipping, so it took 10 days for the package to get to me. I installed the rods on the crank with ARP rod bolts using my micrometer to set the rod bolt stretch. Then I fit the crank in the case. I'll make up a new set of tools to hold the rods and chains up while mating the case halves. Should be ready to seal it up early next week.

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More engine build progress. Sealed up the case and installed the head studs.

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The engine looks amazing. Beautiful work ! Like the rubber band mechanism, that gets it done. No flopping about. Look forward to more.

Yeah...The rubber bands keep the rods from getting caught on the spigot bores and allow the engine to be rotated with no hang ups.

I installed the flywheel and crank pulley today. Being new to the 914 world, I am wondering where to make the ignition timing and TDC marks. I understand that the 914-6 had the timing marks on the flywheel in line with the crank pulley as there is no visual access to the crank pulley when the engine is installed. I am guessing that I should paint a fine white line on the edge of the flywheel at the case parting line when the same mark is lined up with the case parting line at the crank. One for TDC, one for my timing mark and one each at TDC for the other cylinders to enable setting the valve lash.

Am I on the right track?

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After doing a little research on this timing topic, I concluded that I will mark the flywheel at TDC for each cylinder with a white paint marker and at my timing location with a yellow paint marker. I am hoping that the access panel in my firewall will allow me to see the crank pully and easily access the distributor, making the flywheel marking redundant.

Ok dumb question as I have no personal experience with anything over a 2.7 engine in a 914-6 what pressure plate and transmission are you using with that flywheel? Every 6 conversion I have dealt with is a cup style flywheel and what you have would not work.

Hi Ben

I am using a Kennedy Engineering 228 mm stage 2 clutch package. It allows conversion of the 915 9 bolt flywheel to the 901 type clutch and pressure plate.

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