Been busy on fine tuning my blue 914, insulating and adding AC to my garage, and going to DEs at Palm Beach, Roebling, and Sebring all in the last couple months. I am working on getting my SCCA racing license.
Byron (racerbvd) helped me get into the Dark Side DE at Roebling at the last minute, which was a really fun and well run event. Great party with live music and a lot of cool people and cars. Byron is a really friendly and helpful guy in person who has been in the 914 scene since the beginning.
Click to view attachment
Now I am back to getting this IMSA car done. I did a lot of boring sheet metal work to the front of the car that I won't bother detailing. Cut out the late model front end reinforcement and started fitting the oil cooler and shroud.
Click to view attachment
Packaging all the stuff that has to go in the front trunk is going to be interesting.
John
Full Version: Starting a 1971 IMSA 914 Restoration
Here are the front trunk tubes, fuel cell, and oil cooler plumbing. This will all work but it makes running the -12 oil lines tight.
Click to view attachment
Here is the oil cooler and thermostat plumbing concept. The thermostat will be mounted a little higher than shown. The oil return line was originally run through the driver long and then through the boxed section under the gas tank. I'll do it the same way. The line from the thermostat will go to the oil tank. I'll have to cut out part of the reinforcing plate under the head light bucket to make room for the oil lines to the cooler. It will be tight but it should work ok.
Click to view attachment
I will close up the excess hole in the floor of the trunk. I will probably use stainless wire mesh over the radiator outlet hole.
The oil cooler is the Setrab unit many people use. It will be rubber mounted and shrouded using two fiberglass pieces. I read about 25 threads on oil coolers before putting this plan together.
Any comments would be great before I JB weld it all together.
John
Click to view attachment
Here is the oil cooler and thermostat plumbing concept. The thermostat will be mounted a little higher than shown. The oil return line was originally run through the driver long and then through the boxed section under the gas tank. I'll do it the same way. The line from the thermostat will go to the oil tank. I'll have to cut out part of the reinforcing plate under the head light bucket to make room for the oil lines to the cooler. It will be tight but it should work ok.
Click to view attachment
I will close up the excess hole in the floor of the trunk. I will probably use stainless wire mesh over the radiator outlet hole.
The oil cooler is the Setrab unit many people use. It will be rubber mounted and shrouded using two fiberglass pieces. I read about 25 threads on oil coolers before putting this plan together.
Any comments would be great before I JB weld it all together.
John
This is a great build. Please let me know if you need anything.
Thanks Joe. I think about dropping all my cars off at your shop and just saying, call me when they are done.
It may come to that...
John
I wpuld put the T-Stat in the rear.
Also check with HSR, SVRA, PCA about the Legality of the curved front bars
Good seeing you at Sebring, sorry I didn't get much time - mega busy
Also check with HSR, SVRA, PCA about the Legality of the curved front bars
Good seeing you at Sebring, sorry I didn't get much time - mega busy
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Nov 21 2011, 07:24 PM) 
Thanks Joe. I think about dropping all my cars off at your shop and just saying, call me when they are done.
It may come to that...
John
That would be cool, but you're doing just fine.
Are you going to do the double school at Roebling to get your SCCA license? I might be down there if my friend goes to get his.
This is, by far, my favorite build thread on this forum.
Hey TC:
It was great seeing you at Sebring. I had a fantastic time and was told I am about ready to solo. I am done with the stock brakes on my 996 and am thinking of using pagid orange pads next time.
Remember that the original oil tank on this car is in the front where the fuel tank normally is. Doesn't that kind of necessitate putting the thermostat in the front?
Why would curved bars in the front trunk not be legal? I was looking at a 914 at Roebling that is used in VCDA racing that has no bars in the front trunk at all. VCDA is the series I am thinking of doing. There are several central florida people running 914s and 911s in that series. I admit to ignorance of the various series rules and need to study them.
Blake: That is what I am hoping to do. My wife is also going to do it. We want to do as many track days as we can before that.
Thanks for all the comments.
John
It was great seeing you at Sebring. I had a fantastic time and was told I am about ready to solo. I am done with the stock brakes on my 996 and am thinking of using pagid orange pads next time.
Remember that the original oil tank on this car is in the front where the fuel tank normally is. Doesn't that kind of necessitate putting the thermostat in the front?
Why would curved bars in the front trunk not be legal? I was looking at a 914 at Roebling that is used in VCDA racing that has no bars in the front trunk at all. VCDA is the series I am thinking of doing. There are several central florida people running 914s and 911s in that series. I admit to ignorance of the various series rules and need to study them.
Blake: That is what I am hoping to do. My wife is also going to do it. We want to do as many track days as we can before that.
Thanks for all the comments.
John
Working on finishing the outlet hole for the radiator. Did some relief cuts so I could flatten the trunk floor and attach it to a stiffening strip.
Click to view attachment
Reinforcing the edges with 1/8 by 1 inch strips. This will give me something to bolt the shroud to and will strengthen the edges of the hole. Closed up the back half of the old air conditioning hole.
Click to view attachment
Also welded in the pads for the front trunk tubes.
Click to view attachment
The outlet opening is 7x20 inches which is 140 square inches. The radiator is 4x18 inches or 72 square inches, which is close to the 2 to 1 ratio recommended for radiator air flow.
This only took all day yesterday.
John
Click to view attachment
Reinforcing the edges with 1/8 by 1 inch strips. This will give me something to bolt the shroud to and will strengthen the edges of the hole. Closed up the back half of the old air conditioning hole.
Click to view attachment
Also welded in the pads for the front trunk tubes.
Click to view attachment
The outlet opening is 7x20 inches which is 140 square inches. The radiator is 4x18 inches or 72 square inches, which is close to the 2 to 1 ratio recommended for radiator air flow.
This only took all day yesterday.
John
Looks great!! and when the missing parts and holes are fixed on my project it will be time to cut out my front trunk
Just do what I do before cutting anything:
Measure twice and pray three times.
John
This is really exciting news, when I told my dad he showed up on google, I wasn't yet a member...so I was unaware of your project. My dad is Bob Zulkowski, and I spent many days wearing the race team shirt and dusting that car when it was being shown for display purposes. It woke me up early many mornings. I've never thought about what happened to all of dads old racecars as he is presently on a big boat in the virgin islands, but now I can't help but wonder where all of it's predecessors are as well! Best of luck to you and your wallet...my first car was a 914 which I paid a cool 3 grand for back in 1986 so I'm a fan for sure. I look forward to seeing how it goes, and you can always ask if you have questions, I'm sure if he can remember (lol) he'd love to talk your ear off about this baby. I'll see if I can dig up any photos of it in better condition as well.
Cathy Z.
Cathy 
I know who you Dad is, but this car wasn't one of his - this a Priviteer car run out of South Florida, DiVella Racing
Click to view attachment
I know who you Dad is, but this car wasn't one of his - this a Priviteer car run out of South Florida, DiVella Racing
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(carr914 @ Feb 10 2012, 05:43 AM)
Cathy
I know who you Dad is...
That sounds dirty....
Cheshirecat - Carthy- Holy crap! I knew your dad and Troy Powell pretty well and was a regular at Metal Craft with my first 914, ('73 2.0 in sepia brown that your dad did a smoked stripe on just like his six had) and my 2nd six. They worked on that car and ultimately did the 3.0 transplant on my 2nd 914-6 when the original 2.0 punched a rod through the side. I recall your dad's black '71 914-6 quite well and Troy's blue GT flared '70. I am glad to hear your dad is enjoying life on a boat in the tropics. That was always a fun shop to go and hang out.
QUOTE(cheshirecat @ Feb 10 2012, 02:47 AM)
This is really exciting news, when I told my dad he showed up on google, I wasn't yet a member...so I was unaware of your project. My dad is Bob Zulkowski, and I spent many days wearing the race team shirt and dusting that car when it was being shown for display purposes. It woke me up early many mornings. I've never thought about what happened to all of dads old racecars as he is presently on a big boat in the virgin islands, but now I can't help but wonder where all of it's predecessors are as well! Best of luck to you and your wallet...my first car was a 914 which I paid a cool 3 grand for back in 1986 so I'm a fan for sure. I look forward to seeing how it goes, and you can always ask if you have questions, I'm sure if he can remember (lol) he'd love to talk your ear off about this baby. I'll see if I can dig up any photos of it in better condition as well.
Cathy Z.
Welcome to the club Cathy!
I use to own your fathers car, it is now owned by Doug Wright.
Here is a link about the car:
http://www.914world.com/roadglue/forum/showthread.php?t=768
QUOTE(cheshirecat @ Feb 10 2012, 01:47 AM)
This is really exciting news, when I told my dad he showed up on google, I wasn't yet a member...so I was unaware of your project. My dad is Bob Zulkowski, and I spent many days wearing the race team shirt and dusting that car when it was being shown for display purposes. It woke me up early many mornings. I've never thought about what happened to all of dads old racecars as he is presently on a big boat in the virgin islands, but now I can't help but wonder where all of it's predecessors are as well! Best of luck to you and your wallet...my first car was a 914 which I paid a cool 3 grand for back in 1986 so I'm a fan for sure. I look forward to seeing how it goes, and you can always ask if you have questions, I'm sure if he can remember (lol) he'd love to talk your ear off about this baby. I'll see if I can dig up any photos of it in better condition as well.
Cathy Z.
Cathy,
It seems like I have a different car from yours but I bet you all knew the folks who owned mine, Manuel Cueto and John Di Lella. Maybe you all have some period pictures that include both of our cars. Di Lella racing went on to race 911s after selling their 914. Maybe you all owned this car after John sold it? I would like to talk to you all about it sometime.
This is one of those projects you have to do yourself unless you are loaded because of the hours it takes. My friend Sean and I have spent 350 hours on the work so far and are only half done. We just chip away at it when we can.
John
Fixing some holes using the HF shrinker/stretcher set. I wanted one of these tools for a while and as soon as I could think of a reason I needed them I picked up a set. I fixed some curved areas with them and they turned out well.
Found some graph paper card stock that makes great templates.
Click to view attachment
Used the stretcher on the lip to curve the piece. You have to stretch a little, check the fit, stretch a little, check the fit, hammer some to keep the lip flat, etc. Stretcher jaws leave some marks you can hammer flattter and sand if it matters.
Click to view attachment
Check the fit in the gas tank area. This was hopelessly rusted so I cut back to "better" metal.
Click to view attachment
Welded and partly ground down. Need to dremel the hard to reach areas. Leaning over to do this repair for two hours was probably the hardest part. Some parts had to be welded up from under the dash which was also fun.
Click to view attachment
I've been working on grinding down and cleaning up areas welded by Sean and I. I hate spending the time but I think it is worth it. I will clean up the welds I made to repair rust damage and try not to go down the slippery slope of over restoring.
Welds done by the original owners will be left in their original state. They never ground any welds as far as I can tell.
John
Found some graph paper card stock that makes great templates.
Click to view attachment
Used the stretcher on the lip to curve the piece. You have to stretch a little, check the fit, stretch a little, check the fit, hammer some to keep the lip flat, etc. Stretcher jaws leave some marks you can hammer flattter and sand if it matters.
Click to view attachment
Check the fit in the gas tank area. This was hopelessly rusted so I cut back to "better" metal.
Click to view attachment
Welded and partly ground down. Need to dremel the hard to reach areas. Leaning over to do this repair for two hours was probably the hardest part. Some parts had to be welded up from under the dash which was also fun.
Click to view attachment
I've been working on grinding down and cleaning up areas welded by Sean and I. I hate spending the time but I think it is worth it. I will clean up the welds I made to repair rust damage and try not to go down the slippery slope of over restoring.
Welds done by the original owners will be left in their original state. They never ground any welds as far as I can tell.
John
Fixing the rusted out rain gutter using the shrinker/stretcher set.
Click to view attachment
Cut a piece for the patch.
Click to view attachment
Bend it using the brake I built. I wanted a small one for bending 16 gauge and made this out of scraps plus a few HD bought pieces.
Click to view attachment
Bend it to the right shape using the stretcher. This has a variable curve that takes a some trial and error to get right.
Click to view attachment
Hammer it a little to keep it flat.
Click to view attachment
Make some relief cuts and bend up the inner edge. I used the cut off rusty piece as a guide for the width.
Click to view attachment
Test fit.
Click to view attachment
Stand back and check the arc of the gutter. This is part way through adjusting the
arc. It was way too low at first and I am glad I realized I needed to check this
before welding. Most of the time you need to think about 3 steps ahead to avoid
screwing something up.
Click to view attachment
Tack the ends, then the middle, then in between little by little.
Click to view attachment
Weld up the relief cuts by clamping a thick copper piece behind the weld.
Click to view attachment
Grind it carefully, weld some imperfections, grind some more, then sand using 120.
Click to view attachment
Still more detail grinding to go.
John
Click to view attachment
Cut a piece for the patch.
Click to view attachment
Bend it using the brake I built. I wanted a small one for bending 16 gauge and made this out of scraps plus a few HD bought pieces.
Click to view attachment
Bend it to the right shape using the stretcher. This has a variable curve that takes a some trial and error to get right.
Click to view attachment
Hammer it a little to keep it flat.
Click to view attachment
Make some relief cuts and bend up the inner edge. I used the cut off rusty piece as a guide for the width.
Click to view attachment
Test fit.
Click to view attachment
Stand back and check the arc of the gutter. This is part way through adjusting the
arc. It was way too low at first and I am glad I realized I needed to check this
before welding. Most of the time you need to think about 3 steps ahead to avoid
screwing something up.
Click to view attachment
Tack the ends, then the middle, then in between little by little.
Click to view attachment
Weld up the relief cuts by clamping a thick copper piece behind the weld.
Click to view attachment
Grind it carefully, weld some imperfections, grind some more, then sand using 120.
Click to view attachment
Still more detail grinding to go.
John
I realized that after I posted when I saw a different shot, but you can't 'unpost'...at least I couldn't figure out how to!
Been working on mounting the oil cooler and fuel cell.
I have the oil cooler mounted, thermostat mounted, and front tubes mocked up.
The fuel cell could be mounted in a framework of 1 inch angle iron represented by
the cardboard strips. It would be attached by the lip to the bulkhead using the
original aluminum angle used by the original builders for that purpose. It would
have two steel straps all the way around width wise to hold it in place.
I would put some additional short tubes under the halfway point of the lower tubes.
Getting everything to fit around these trunk tubes has been a real PIA but I think it
will be worth it.
Click to view attachment
The fuel cell will clear the oil cooler shroud this way. Once the cross tube is welded
in place it will not be possible to remove the oil cooler shroud anymore as is. I am
thinking of sectioning the shroud and holding it together with aluminum strips and
bolts or making a multiple piece one from metal sheet.
Also considering making the cross tube removable, although I have not seen any
good or easy solutions for that.
John
I have the oil cooler mounted, thermostat mounted, and front tubes mocked up.
The fuel cell could be mounted in a framework of 1 inch angle iron represented by
the cardboard strips. It would be attached by the lip to the bulkhead using the
original aluminum angle used by the original builders for that purpose. It would
have two steel straps all the way around width wise to hold it in place.
I would put some additional short tubes under the halfway point of the lower tubes.
Getting everything to fit around these trunk tubes has been a real PIA but I think it
will be worth it.
Click to view attachment
The fuel cell will clear the oil cooler shroud this way. Once the cross tube is welded
in place it will not be possible to remove the oil cooler shroud anymore as is. I am
thinking of sectioning the shroud and holding it together with aluminum strips and
bolts or making a multiple piece one from metal sheet.
Also considering making the cross tube removable, although I have not seen any
good or easy solutions for that.
John
Just saw this thread, very impressive you'd take on such a project! Can't wait to see it completed and maybe run with it too.
Hey thanks Cracker! I'd like to get to Road Atlanta at some point.
Started mocking up the fuel cell install.
Click to view attachment
Notched some stubby legs to support the cross tube. These will sit on welded pads.
Click to view attachment
Fuel cell fits in nicely.
Click to view attachment
Playing with the fuel pick up fittings and filters. With two of everything there are a
lot of fuel system parts. Will use an angle to attach the lip of the cell the bulkhead.
Will use square tubes across the top attached to straps going around the angle
irons on the bottom. That will provide something to mount the filters to.
Click to view attachment
Lot of head scratching went into getting this far.
John
Started mocking up the fuel cell install.
Click to view attachment
Notched some stubby legs to support the cross tube. These will sit on welded pads.
Click to view attachment
Fuel cell fits in nicely.
Click to view attachment
Playing with the fuel pick up fittings and filters. With two of everything there are a
lot of fuel system parts. Will use an angle to attach the lip of the cell the bulkhead.
Will use square tubes across the top attached to straps going around the angle
irons on the bottom. That will provide something to mount the filters to.
Click to view attachment
Lot of head scratching went into getting this far.
John
John,
You guys coming to the Dark Side DE next month??
You guys coming to the Dark Side DE next month??
Byron,
I hate to miss it but too busy with many things.
I want to bring my blue 914 next time but it needs an oil cooler and roll hoop.
John
I hate to miss it but too busy with many things.
I want to bring my blue 914 next time but it needs an oil cooler and roll hoop.
John
John,
Don't know if you knew about this video but your car is shown at about the 12:21 mark and 14:46.
Sebring 12 Hours 1977...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kks-yGG_6g
Don't know if you knew about this video but your car is shown at about the 12:21 mark and 14:46.
Sebring 12 Hours 1977...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kks-yGG_6g
Nice work
Great build!
I love this thread.
QUOTE(URY914 @ Apr 3 2012, 07:56 PM)
John,
Don't know if you knew about this video but your car is shown at about the 12:21 mark and 14:46.
Sebring 12 Hours 1977...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kks-yGG_6g
That is awesome, never seen that movie before!
John
That video was awesome! So cool to see your car in there John!
QUOTE(URY914 @ Apr 3 2012, 06:56 PM)
John,
Don't know if you knew about this video but your car is shown at about the 12:21 mark and 14:46.
Sebring 12 Hours 1977...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kks-yGG_6g
Paul, Thanks for linking that video. Great stuff!
And we bitch about today's coverage of sports car racing!
QUOTE(maf914 @ Apr 8 2012, 09:59 AM)
QUOTE(URY914 @ Apr 3 2012, 06:56 PM)
John,
Don't know if you knew about this video but your car is shown at about the 12:21 mark and 14:46.
Sebring 12 Hours 1977...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kks-yGG_6g
Paul, Thanks for linking that video. Great stuff!
And we bitch about today's coverage of sports car racing!
It pays to do a Youtube search every few months. Kinda like fishing. Sometimes nothing; sometimes you get one.
I decided to build a sheet metal oil cooler shroud so I could make the top in two
pieces. This will allow the oil cooler to be cleaned out or replaced with the bracing
tubes welded in place. Spent a long time making an ugly looking template for a side.
I copied the shape of the fiberglass oil cooler shroud.
I had to add tape to several edges where I cut too much off to start with.
Click to view attachment
First side bent up and fitted.
Click to view attachment
Bending up the second side. These pliers are really useful for this kind of work and you
can buy them at Home Depot, etc.
Click to view attachment
Hammering on the bend to make it crisper.
Click to view attachment
Both sides screwed down.
Click to view attachment
Laying out the first top piece.
Click to view attachment
Cut it out with the power sheers. They tend to get hung up sometimes and screw
up your cuts. I had to straighten out some of these edges with the grinder.
Click to view attachment
Screwed it together.
Click to view attachment
It turned out pretty well. I will replace the sheet metal screws with welded nuts
later on.
Click to view attachment
This took several days but I am glad I took the time to do it.
John
pieces. This will allow the oil cooler to be cleaned out or replaced with the bracing
tubes welded in place. Spent a long time making an ugly looking template for a side.
I copied the shape of the fiberglass oil cooler shroud.
I had to add tape to several edges where I cut too much off to start with.
Click to view attachment
First side bent up and fitted.
Click to view attachment
Bending up the second side. These pliers are really useful for this kind of work and you
can buy them at Home Depot, etc.
Click to view attachment
Hammering on the bend to make it crisper.
Click to view attachment
Both sides screwed down.
Click to view attachment
Laying out the first top piece.
Click to view attachment
Cut it out with the power sheers. They tend to get hung up sometimes and screw
up your cuts. I had to straighten out some of these edges with the grinder.
Click to view attachment
Screwed it together.
Click to view attachment
It turned out pretty well. I will replace the sheet metal screws with welded nuts
later on.
Click to view attachment
This took several days but I am glad I took the time to do it.
John
Continued work on mounting the fuel cell. Following the approach used by several
fuel cell makers to strap down a cell. Bent up some 1 1/4 by 1/8 steel strips.
Click to view attachment
The straps go all the way around the fuel cell and the frame on which it sits. Bolted
through the lip of the cell at the top. The frame the fuel cell is sitting in is a welded
rectangle of one inch angle iron. The straps will be welded to the frame on the
bottom.
A additional angle will be used to bolt the back lip to the bulkhead.
Click to view attachment
John
fuel cell makers to strap down a cell. Bent up some 1 1/4 by 1/8 steel strips.
Click to view attachment
The straps go all the way around the fuel cell and the frame on which it sits. Bolted
through the lip of the cell at the top. The frame the fuel cell is sitting in is a welded
rectangle of one inch angle iron. The straps will be welded to the frame on the
bottom.
A additional angle will be used to bolt the back lip to the bulkhead.
Click to view attachment
John
Tired of the endless work on the front end, I decided to fix some holes in the engine bay including the hell hole.
Notice the long is cracked in the rear wheel arch. This is the kind of crack the GT stiffening kit is meant to prevent.
Interesting that it cracked even with (or maybe because of) the bars tying into the rear shock towers.
Click to view attachment
Cut out rusted metal where the battery tray attaches on the other side.
Click to view attachment
Make a template by sticking painters tape over the hole from the other side.
Notice the long is cracked in the rear wheel arch. This is the kind of crack the GT stiffening kit is meant to prevent.
Interesting that it cracked even with (or maybe because of) the bars tying into the rear shock towers.
Click to view attachment
Cut out rusted metal where the battery tray attaches on the other side.
Click to view attachment
Make a template by sticking painters tape over the hole from the other side.
Stick the tape to a piece of metal and cut it out. Easy to get a good fit this way.
Tack it being careful to align the edges perfectly flat. If the patch sticks in or out by
any appreciable amount it is impossible to grind the seam flat.
Click to view attachment
Keep adding tacks until it is fully welded. Notice the burns and dirt around each tack
weld. Once this side is fully welded, I turn up my welder and hit any parts of the other
side that did not burn through fully. Doing this before grinding the first side gives more
metal to absorb the weld heat.
Click to view attachment
Every time I do this I learn something more. This time I stopped now and then and wire
wheeled the seam to clean the spatter from previous sets of tacks. This seems to keep
the popping and blow through down.
Click to view attachment
Made a 16 gauge patch for the hell hole. This is trickier to make than it looks because
of the bends and the way the long curves. Welded some backers to the top and
bottom to help align the patch and allow a hotter weld seam there. Makes it much
easier to fix an area where you can't access the back.
Click to view attachment
Welded and ground down.
Click to view attachment
The bodywork on this car is just never ending...there is still more.
John
Tack it being careful to align the edges perfectly flat. If the patch sticks in or out by
any appreciable amount it is impossible to grind the seam flat.
Click to view attachment
Keep adding tacks until it is fully welded. Notice the burns and dirt around each tack
weld. Once this side is fully welded, I turn up my welder and hit any parts of the other
side that did not burn through fully. Doing this before grinding the first side gives more
metal to absorb the weld heat.
Click to view attachment
Every time I do this I learn something more. This time I stopped now and then and wire
wheeled the seam to clean the spatter from previous sets of tacks. This seems to keep
the popping and blow through down.
Click to view attachment
Made a 16 gauge patch for the hell hole. This is trickier to make than it looks because
of the bends and the way the long curves. Welded some backers to the top and
bottom to help align the patch and allow a hotter weld seam there. Makes it much
easier to fix an area where you can't access the back.
Click to view attachment
Welded and ground down.
Click to view attachment
The bodywork on this car is just never ending...there is still more.
John
Very nice work John. I love checking in on your project and seeing what you fab up next. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Brian, I am ready for the mechanical assembly but there is a lot of bodywork still to do...
John
John,
You're metal work continues to impress me and gets better and better. The shroud looks killer. My main area of focus is body work, so let me know if you would like some free labor!
BTW - I got the Tangerine kit installed today. Its a different car now. Thank you, thank you again. I'll post pics soon.
You're metal work continues to impress me and gets better and better. The shroud looks killer. My main area of focus is body work, so let me know if you would like some free labor!
BTW - I got the Tangerine kit installed today. Its a different car now. Thank you, thank you again. I'll post pics soon.
Hey George, glad the parts helped out. I am going to want some help when the
epic reassembly of this car finally arrives.
My trusty dewalt grinder quit on me the other day after 5 years and 2 cars of
fearless grinding. I was wondering what the deal was until I noticed the cord
was on fire near the body of the grinder.
Put out the fire and installed a new cord and its back on the job.
Fixing the tail. The sheet metal underneath the old fiberglass fenders is in really
bad shape. All chewed up and distorted. It looks like the builders bashed in the
fenders as needed and filled them with glass. I fixed a bunch of pin holes and
cracks in addition to this work.
I don't really want to buy replacement steel rear fenders, which have to be getting
rare, just to cut most of them off. When I get the new fiberglass ones I'll decide
what I am going to do. Making these decisions is not easy and involves a lot of
angst.
Already built up the bottom of the corner with a few bits.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Fixed some more cracks and holes after this.
John
epic reassembly of this car finally arrives.
My trusty dewalt grinder quit on me the other day after 5 years and 2 cars of
fearless grinding. I was wondering what the deal was until I noticed the cord
was on fire near the body of the grinder.
Put out the fire and installed a new cord and its back on the job.
Fixing the tail. The sheet metal underneath the old fiberglass fenders is in really
bad shape. All chewed up and distorted. It looks like the builders bashed in the
fenders as needed and filled them with glass. I fixed a bunch of pin holes and
cracks in addition to this work.
I don't really want to buy replacement steel rear fenders, which have to be getting
rare, just to cut most of them off. When I get the new fiberglass ones I'll decide
what I am going to do. Making these decisions is not easy and involves a lot of
angst.
Already built up the bottom of the corner with a few bits.
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Fixed some more cracks and holes after this.
John
Fixing the taillight area.
Sketch out the new piece.
Click to view attachment
Cut n bend.
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Weld n grind.
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Fits decent. The front corner of the fender is pretty tweaked so it is not perfect.
Losing patience with how bad the metal is on the fenders so calling it a day.
John
Sketch out the new piece.
Click to view attachment
Cut n bend.
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Weld n grind.
Click to view attachment
Fits decent. The front corner of the fender is pretty tweaked so it is not perfect.
Losing patience with how bad the metal is on the fenders so calling it a day.
John
Switching gears here to work on something besides welding and grinding.
I have asked some of the experienced folks what kind of seats to run in the car.
They have given me some great ideas and I hate to keep bothering the same
people all the time so I thought I would throw this out for the world to help me out.
I would like to race the car in vintage racing, do some DEs, and maybe some
vintage rallys. The Targa Newfoundland is my fantasy goal.
I can either use a vintage looking seat, like this great aluminum Kirkey 41500
vintage seat.
Click to view attachment
A less vintage looking seat but one that is probably safer would be this Kirkey
47500 seat.
Click to view attachment
Don't be shy now what do you all think?
John
I have asked some of the experienced folks what kind of seats to run in the car.
They have given me some great ideas and I hate to keep bothering the same
people all the time so I thought I would throw this out for the world to help me out.
I would like to race the car in vintage racing, do some DEs, and maybe some
vintage rallys. The Targa Newfoundland is my fantasy goal.
I can either use a vintage looking seat, like this great aluminum Kirkey 41500
vintage seat.
Click to view attachment
A less vintage looking seat but one that is probably safer would be this Kirkey
47500 seat.
Click to view attachment
Don't be shy now what do you all think?
John
Go for safety over looks in that dept. I vote!
I'm really getting into SVRA and historics and from what I know, no one looks down upon modern safety equipment. Fuel cells, HANS devices and seats are just some of the many areas that people upgrade with good reason. I vote the tall seat-back. I sincerely doubt if you were to track it at all that you would be able to get by with the low-back. Not to mention, its just a bad idea in general I think. The fender work looks awesome! Are you going to try your hand at a shrinking disc to smooth out the rest of it, since you're planning on FG fenders at some point?
I have heard great things about shrinking disks and have John's video where he
demonstrates it.
I also heard from people whose disk exploded and sent them to the hospital with
major injuries.
I have not had much luck shrinking with acetylene but I may try again.
Keep the ideas coming.
John
John, I have a Sparco Racing Seat with Recaro Brackets that came out of the Carrera if you want a Real Racing Seat ( Cheap)
DSClick to view attachment
DSClick to view attachment
You'll need the tall seat for racing the 914 ... even just vinatage.
People must use the short vintage seat in street cars. 
After combing this site and the internet in general for days I have concluded that
I need Roger Sheridan's wide rear body flares.
They look the closest to the original flares that I can find and they are wide enough
to fit the Gottis I want to use. The rear tires on the Gottis are around 13.5" wide.
That is too wide for the Sheridan standard rear flares. Now I have to figure out
what size wheel spacer to make the Gottis work.
I found some other really wide rear flares but they have a hard body line in them
that does not match the originals or they have big vent holes. I also do not want
to use 914 GT style rear flares because that is not what was on the car.
Anyone know of any other potential choice?
Thanks,
John
After combing this site and the internet in general for days I have concluded that
I need Roger Sheridan's wide rear body flares.
They look the closest to the original flares that I can find and they are wide enough
to fit the Gottis I want to use. The rear tires on the Gottis are around 13.5" wide.
That is too wide for the Sheridan standard rear flares. Now I have to figure out
what size wheel spacer to make the Gottis work.
I found some other really wide rear flares but they have a hard body line in them
that does not match the originals or they have big vent holes. I also do not want
to use 914 GT style rear flares because that is not what was on the car.
Anyone know of any other potential choice?
Thanks,
John
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