Other changes for short tracks. Lumbermans 500 at Mid Ohio
Click to view attachment
Note rear wing. Looks like a 911 wing was grafted on the rear decklid. Rules stated that air couldn't pass under a rear wing/spoiler. Added plexiglass along the leading edges got us around that rule.
The difference at Mid Ohio was with the small spoiler turn 1 was brake, downshift, drive thru turn
With the big wing turn 1 was lift, turn in and accelerate thru corner.
AH the memories.....
Full Version: Starting a 1971 IMSA 914 Restoration
Great pictures and stories.
Are all the pictures of the same car, just with different paint schemes?
So popping up your headlights would slow the car 8 mph at Daytona? That is interesting and I guess it makes sense given how large they are and located at the front of the car.
Thanks for sharing!
John
All the same car...Just updated over the years based on rules changes
Saving the front bumper.
The fiberglass front bumper was heavily damaged and repaired over the years. Several
places had an inch of bondo and kitty hair to repair major cracks. The bumper also was
too narrow to fit the car after I corrected the damage to the front end as shown earlier in the thread.
Click to view attachment
I ground down the old repairs and tapered their edges. I used to build surfboards way
back so I am familiar with fiberglass repairs. It used to make me super itchy doing this
work 30 years ago but now it does not bother me anymore for some reason, probably the
fact that I actually use safety gear now.
Reshaped the bumper to fit the correct
width front end. This took many iterations to get it close.
Repaired the damage using layers of polyester resin and fiberglass cloth.
Click to view attachment
I should have weighed it before and after the repairs, but it is probably less than half the weight it used to be.
John
The fiberglass front bumper was heavily damaged and repaired over the years. Several
places had an inch of bondo and kitty hair to repair major cracks. The bumper also was
too narrow to fit the car after I corrected the damage to the front end as shown earlier in the thread.
Click to view attachment
I ground down the old repairs and tapered their edges. I used to build surfboards way
back so I am familiar with fiberglass repairs. It used to make me super itchy doing this
work 30 years ago but now it does not bother me anymore for some reason, probably the
fact that I actually use safety gear now.
Reshaped the bumper to fit the correct width front end. This took many iterations to get it close.
Repaired the damage using layers of polyester resin and fiberglass cloth.
Click to view attachment
I should have weighed it before and after the repairs, but it is probably less than half the weight it used to be.
John
BYW, the fiberglass repairs were done years ago, I just never posted them before.
Still trying to catch up with everything that has happened.
John
There is a large hole in the firewall which connects the passenger area to the front of
the car. This was cut to accommodate the bottom of the oil tank, which you can see
sitting on the angle iron platform. This hole needs to be closed up for safety and rules compliance.
Click to view attachment
The hole has a very complex shape, so I decided to tackle it using several pieces. Just
getting a piece cut off from a stock firewall will not work because of the size and shape
of the oil tank they used.
Make a template:
Click to view attachment
Make it in metal:
Click to view attachment
Weld it on:
Click to view attachment
Keep in mind that this is the deepest part of the footwell under the dashboard. I pretty much have to jam myself in there with my welder and other tools. I can work for 30
minutes or so before I need to crawl out and do some serious stretching. It is hard to get nice looking welds working like this.
John
the car. This was cut to accommodate the bottom of the oil tank, which you can see
sitting on the angle iron platform. This hole needs to be closed up for safety and rules compliance.
Click to view attachment
The hole has a very complex shape, so I decided to tackle it using several pieces. Just
getting a piece cut off from a stock firewall will not work because of the size and shape
of the oil tank they used.
Make a template:
Click to view attachment
Make it in metal:
Click to view attachment
Weld it on:
Click to view attachment
Keep in mind that this is the deepest part of the footwell under the dashboard. I pretty much have to jam myself in there with my welder and other tools. I can work for 30
minutes or so before I need to crawl out and do some serious stretching. It is hard to get nice looking welds working like this.
John
Made another large patch to close up more of the hole:
Click to view attachment
Another step closer to being a runner...
I am thinking of making a removal panel for the lower part of the hole to make installing
and servicing the oil and fuel lines easier. Maybe rivetted or bolted on?
John
Click to view attachment
Another step closer to being a runner...
I am thinking of making a removal panel for the lower part of the hole to make installing
and servicing the oil and fuel lines easier. Maybe rivetted or bolted on?
John
Hey John, good to hear from you.
How are you Paul? How is your car running?
Sharing some parts porn, mostly to document for myself what parts I have for this project
and what I still need to find. Some of these parts I bought more than 5 years ago so it
is getting hard to remember them all.
Some engine mount goodness. The plates are from Mittelmotor and took a while to get
here. The rubber piece is the new URO reproduction for $140ish, while the originals
were up to $2000+ before these came out. I got the engine mount from ebay, I believe.
Altogether this is $1000+ just to mount the front of the engine to the car. These parts
work with the engine mount that was welded into the car when I got it.
Click to view attachment
A whole collection of Aeroquip fittings to finish the fuel and oiling systems. The yellow
thing is an actual size cardboard template of a fitting I wanted to try out before buying
one and then not have it fit. These parts are $$ especially for the -12 and -16 sizes.
Click to view attachment
New sway a way axles, pedal cluster rebuilt by the one and only Bruce Stone, and toe link adjusters that can be welded on the stop toe alignment changes.
Click to view attachment
Gotta love new and refinished parts.
John
Sharing some parts porn, mostly to document for myself what parts I have for this project
and what I still need to find. Some of these parts I bought more than 5 years ago so it
is getting hard to remember them all.
Some engine mount goodness. The plates are from Mittelmotor and took a while to get
here. The rubber piece is the new URO reproduction for $140ish, while the originals
were up to $2000+ before these came out. I got the engine mount from ebay, I believe.
Altogether this is $1000+ just to mount the front of the engine to the car. These parts
work with the engine mount that was welded into the car when I got it.
Click to view attachment
A whole collection of Aeroquip fittings to finish the fuel and oiling systems. The yellow
thing is an actual size cardboard template of a fitting I wanted to try out before buying
one and then not have it fit. These parts are $$ especially for the -12 and -16 sizes.
Click to view attachment
New sway a way axles, pedal cluster rebuilt by the one and only Bruce Stone, and toe link adjusters that can be welded on the stop toe alignment changes.
Click to view attachment
Gotta love new and refinished parts.
John
Finishing up the firewall. Created more patches and a service plate to close it up.
I thought it would be helpful to be able to remove this plate in order to access this area.
Click to view attachment
Using the paper template I made to locate the fitting at the bottom of the oil tank.
Click to view attachment
Hole drilled using a hole saw. -16 oil return line attached to the oil tank. I will add a
firewall grommet (still in the mail) to close up the gap.
Click to view attachment
Looking forward to not working down under the dash anymore. Everything takes twice
as long and it is hard to make nice welds.
Next I need to finish the fuel system in the front of the car.
John
I thought it would be helpful to be able to remove this plate in order to access this area.
Click to view attachment
Using the paper template I made to locate the fitting at the bottom of the oil tank.
Click to view attachment
Hole drilled using a hole saw. -16 oil return line attached to the oil tank. I will add a
firewall grommet (still in the mail) to close up the gap.
Click to view attachment
Looking forward to not working down under the dash anymore. Everything takes twice
as long and it is hard to make nice welds.
Next I need to finish the fuel system in the front of the car.
John
I have reached a major milestone: the fuel and oil lines in the front of the car are all
made up and attached for the first time!
Of course, it will all come apart again for painting later...
I did not like the way the fuel system routing was working out. The lines were too
long and I did not like having any fuel system components in front of the fuel cell. So
I took it all apart and did some measuring and mock ups.
Click to view attachment
I realized I could make it all fit under the cowl, much like how the original builders had
it set up. Here is how it turned out:
Click to view attachment
Using the old fuel lines I was able to make up all the new lines without having to use
any new AN line, except for the lines connecting to the Tangerine Racing fuel lines with
AN fittings from Chris Foley. I needed several feet of new line for each of those. I can
make the -6 lines with fittings at both ends in about 10 minutes or less (total guess).
I never really timed it but it does not take that long per line.
I will add Adel clamps or bolts to hold each component place. I will attach the fuel
lines in strategic places so nothing can rub on the steering or sway bar, etc.
Click to view attachment
Here is a diagram of the layout fuel system. I realize if I put the front of the car at
the bottom of the diagram it would match the photos better. You get the idea. The
check valves are there so that if one fuel pump is dead or turned off, the other one
can still pump fuel without it just going back into the fuel cell.
Click to view attachment
I also changed the routing of the oil lines so that the oil goes through the oil filter
before going to the thermostat and radiator. Someone made that suggestion, can't
recall who, but thanks for the tip. Here is a diagram of the oil line layout.
Click to view attachment
Really stoked to have this part done.
John
made up and attached for the first time!
Of course, it will all come apart again for painting later...
I did not like the way the fuel system routing was working out. The lines were too
long and I did not like having any fuel system components in front of the fuel cell. So
I took it all apart and did some measuring and mock ups.
Click to view attachment
I realized I could make it all fit under the cowl, much like how the original builders had
it set up. Here is how it turned out:
Click to view attachment
Using the old fuel lines I was able to make up all the new lines without having to use
any new AN line, except for the lines connecting to the Tangerine Racing fuel lines with
AN fittings from Chris Foley. I needed several feet of new line for each of those. I can
make the -6 lines with fittings at both ends in about 10 minutes or less (total guess).
I never really timed it but it does not take that long per line.
I will add Adel clamps or bolts to hold each component place. I will attach the fuel
lines in strategic places so nothing can rub on the steering or sway bar, etc.
Click to view attachment
Here is a diagram of the layout fuel system. I realize if I put the front of the car at
the bottom of the diagram it would match the photos better. You get the idea. The
check valves are there so that if one fuel pump is dead or turned off, the other one
can still pump fuel without it just going back into the fuel cell.
Click to view attachment
I also changed the routing of the oil lines so that the oil goes through the oil filter
before going to the thermostat and radiator. Someone made that suggestion, can't
recall who, but thanks for the tip. Here is a diagram of the oil line layout.
Click to view attachment
Really stoked to have this part done.
John
Took it all out again to clean up and paint the front trunk area. It only took about an
hour to remove everything with the help of a battery powered impact tool.
Click to view attachment
Welded all the unneeded holes in the top of the firewall.
Click to view attachment
You can see the oil cooler shroud I made from sheet aluminum. I started with the
fiberglass shroud available from various sellers. It ended up being too tall and going
too far back to accomodate the larger fuel cell I had ordered. So I made my own with
sheet metal sides with welded on nuts and sheet aluminum top pieces. The front piece
is designed to be removable with the fuel cell in the car to replace the oil cooler if
needed.
Click to view attachment
John
hour to remove everything with the help of a battery powered impact tool.
Click to view attachment
Welded all the unneeded holes in the top of the firewall.
Click to view attachment
You can see the oil cooler shroud I made from sheet aluminum. I started with the
fiberglass shroud available from various sellers. It ended up being too tall and going
too far back to accomodate the larger fuel cell I had ordered. So I made my own with
sheet metal sides with welded on nuts and sheet aluminum top pieces. The front piece
is designed to be removable with the fuel cell in the car to replace the oil cooler if
needed.
Click to view attachment
John
All the oil cooler shroud removed...
Click to view attachment
Now to clean this all up and paint it with some battleship grey automotive paint.
Working with a local hot rod paint shop. They are trying to match the original silver
and yellow colors on a sample of the body work I left with them. The paint tech first
reaction to the silver was "roofing paint".
Who knows, that could be what they used. The paint job is pretty skillfully applied with
no runs and very even coverage.
John
Click to view attachment
Now to clean this all up and paint it with some battleship grey automotive paint.
Working with a local hot rod paint shop. They are trying to match the original silver
and yellow colors on a sample of the body work I left with them. The paint tech first
reaction to the silver was "roofing paint".
Who knows, that could be what they used. The paint job is pretty skillfully applied with
no runs and very even coverage.
John
Boneyard of cutoffs and leftovers from fuel system redesign. Not too much got wasted
and I like the routing and lengths much better. The hose fittings are reusable and will
be needed for the engine bay routing.
Click to view attachment
Starting to pressure test all the fuel lines. After this photo was taken I went up to 90 psi
without any bubbles forming. I will test all of the components before putting them back
in the car and pouring in actual gasoline.
Click to view attachment
John
and I like the routing and lengths much better. The hose fittings are reusable and will
be needed for the engine bay routing.
Click to view attachment
Starting to pressure test all the fuel lines. After this photo was taken I went up to 90 psi
without any bubbles forming. I will test all of the components before putting them back
in the car and pouring in actual gasoline.
Click to view attachment
John
So good to see you making progress again, John. Really sorry as I had no idea the challenges you faced over the past few years. Hope we get together sooner rather than later - haven't seen you guys in a long time!
Quick note - might be worth it to inspect those fittings before you reuse them. I know that the o-rings inside of them break down over time and they can be replaced with kits available online. One of them cost a friend a $6k engine!
Quick note - might be worth it to inspect those fittings before you reuse them. I know that the o-rings inside of them break down over time and they can be replaced with kits available online. One of them cost a friend a $6k engine!
Gosh, this is so good to see. Thanks for posting, the progress is great and that warms my heart because it tells me that your doing much better. Are you planning on attending any events in the future? I'm going to the Route 66 on the 20th and probably won't be back till after the 4th, going Grand Touring in the GT4, coast to coast and back. Haven't seen those people in 12 years. It will be nice to catch up. I'll make an effort to talk to you when I get home.
Looking forward to seeing you.
Joe
Looking forward to seeing you.
Joe
John just a suggestion, maybe you already covered it earlier but make sure the oil tank is higher than than the oil pump in the car. Gravity will get oil to the pump that way. Also make sure the feed side from the tank to the engine is -16. It needs to be that size for the length of the run. Return lines can be -12.
I had a customer that I built an engine for and he was going to put it in a 4 conversion to a 6. When he brought me the motor back mostly blown up I asked him where the oil tank was located and guess what. The oil tank was located too low in the car, below the pump.
Good to see an old car being brought back as it was in the day.
I had a customer that I built an engine for and he was going to put it in a 4 conversion to a 6. When he brought me the motor back mostly blown up I asked him where the oil tank was located and guess what. The oil tank was located too low in the car, below the pump.
Good to see an old car being brought back as it was in the day.
Hey guys thanks for the feedback.
9146Guy: Yes, the oil tank is pretty high in the car, about the level of the standard gas tank in a 914. I am using -16 return line to the engine. Thanks for the tips, keep them coming! I am trying to learn the intricacies of Porsche race car construction from wherever I can. Always eager for more advice.
I am glad I tested all my braided lines. All my hose ends and hoses were good, but the fuel Y block I had leaked like a sieve. Whoever was working that day ran the tap way too far into the block causing the two hose ends to collide and gall each other up:
Click to view attachment
It felt like the pipe threads were bottoming out and sealing, but really the ends were colliding and messing each other up. I have another y fitting I am using instead.
Painted the front trunk area.
Click to view attachment
Started to re-install everything.
Click to view attachment
John
9146Guy: Yes, the oil tank is pretty high in the car, about the level of the standard gas tank in a 914. I am using -16 return line to the engine. Thanks for the tips, keep them coming! I am trying to learn the intricacies of Porsche race car construction from wherever I can. Always eager for more advice.
I am glad I tested all my braided lines. All my hose ends and hoses were good, but the fuel Y block I had leaked like a sieve. Whoever was working that day ran the tap way too far into the block causing the two hose ends to collide and gall each other up:
Click to view attachment
It felt like the pipe threads were bottoming out and sealing, but really the ends were colliding and messing each other up. I have another y fitting I am using instead.
Painted the front trunk area.
Click to view attachment
Started to re-install everything.
Click to view attachment
John
Working my way from front to back, trying to seal up the driver's compartment from the front trunk and engine bay. Welded up more holes and primed the footwell area.
Click to view attachment
All this welding and grinding just takes forever...
WHEEL and TIRE sizes?
I have 12x15 Gottis J55As for the rear wheels. The Yokohama tires on them are another 1.5 inches wider at 13.5 inches and they rub on the inside. Not sure I can space them our any farther. There is a company in France still selling Gotti wheel components, so I may be able to get narrower barrels and seals are rebuild these to be 10x15s. Anyone have any advice on how easy or hard this would be to do?
There are also not many tire choices available in R15 size, looks like Hosier A7 and R7 are about it (345R15). The R7s would be an ok choice I think.
This same French company still sells wheels with a range of sizes and fitments, including R16 size. I am considering going for a set of those maybe 10x16 to increase the range of tires I can get. I want to stay with wheel sizes and style from the late 70s to early 80s and I really like the look of the Gottis.
What are people running on their 914 race cars these days for wheel and tire sizes?
I can use some advice here...
John
Click to view attachment
All this welding and grinding just takes forever...
WHEEL and TIRE sizes?
I have 12x15 Gottis J55As for the rear wheels. The Yokohama tires on them are another 1.5 inches wider at 13.5 inches and they rub on the inside. Not sure I can space them our any farther. There is a company in France still selling Gotti wheel components, so I may be able to get narrower barrels and seals are rebuild these to be 10x15s. Anyone have any advice on how easy or hard this would be to do?
There are also not many tire choices available in R15 size, looks like Hosier A7 and R7 are about it (345R15). The R7s would be an ok choice I think.
This same French company still sells wheels with a range of sizes and fitments, including R16 size. I am considering going for a set of those maybe 10x16 to increase the range of tires I can get. I want to stay with wheel sizes and style from the late 70s to early 80s and I really like the look of the Gottis.
What are people running on their 914 race cars these days for wheel and tire sizes?
I can use some advice here...
John
Link to the source for Gotti wheels:
http://www.gbsalpine.com/wheel/gotti/eng.html
Enjoying the rain today, which is cooling things off.
Click to view attachment
John
http://www.gbsalpine.com/wheel/gotti/eng.html
Enjoying the rain today, which is cooling things off.
Click to view attachment
John
Looks like the car is coming along well!
I've heard of that supplier of Gotti parts, but no experience. I recall that at one time Jongbloed used the same rim halves as Gottis. Jongbloed is still around - give them a call.
On my 914 racecar, I run 16 x 11 and 16 x 12.5, but it's not really vintage focused and has really wide bodywork. There may be more options in the 16" sizes than 15, but if you are open to running slicks, look into Avon tires. They have lots of sizes including wide 15" tires.
Scott
I've heard of that supplier of Gotti parts, but no experience. I recall that at one time Jongbloed used the same rim halves as Gottis. Jongbloed is still around - give them a call.
On my 914 racecar, I run 16 x 11 and 16 x 12.5, but it's not really vintage focused and has really wide bodywork. There may be more options in the 16" sizes than 15, but if you are open to running slicks, look into Avon tires. They have lots of sizes including wide 15" tires.
Scott
Been working steadily on the passenger compartment of the car. Welding up many holes to the engine compartment, etc. One large issue was the hole that was cut to access the front of the engine. A cover was made by the original builders with dzus fasteners from the cut off piece:
Click to view attachment
I liked the dzus fasteners, but there was up to 1/2 inch of gaps around the edges where it was cut. It also was pretty warped and did not fit well or securely. I decided to add strips of metal around the edges to form a flange and completely close up the hole.
This proved to be more challenging than I thought it would...
Click to view attachment
Shaping and plug welding on the metal was easy enough but it proved very difficult to get the piece to fit nicely into the hole. There are lots of curves and contours it has to fit around on all sides. In the end I welded bolts to the engine side of the hole to snug down the cover. This allows it to be removed using an impact in a minute or so but still fit nice and tightly. I have 1/16 inch high temp rubber gasket to put in between to make a really good seal (not done this yet).
Click to view attachment
This took a lot of putting it on, taking it off, using the shrinker here and there, hammering, swearing and the whole process generally being a pain in the butt. Here is the engine side, where I reinforced each bolt with a little metal pad.
Click to view attachment
The hole of course is way bigger than needed to access the front of the engine, but it will make it nice to work on it. I could have welded the original piece on and cut a smaller hole more like most people create, but this is how the car was done originally and I wanted to keep it like this. Dzus fasteners would have been nice too, but I don't think they would hold it as securely and in the age of battery impacts I don't think it will take much longer to get it off.
The square hole in the middle is also original to the car, which I decided to leave.
John
Click to view attachment
I liked the dzus fasteners, but there was up to 1/2 inch of gaps around the edges where it was cut. It also was pretty warped and did not fit well or securely. I decided to add strips of metal around the edges to form a flange and completely close up the hole.
This proved to be more challenging than I thought it would...
Click to view attachment
Shaping and plug welding on the metal was easy enough but it proved very difficult to get the piece to fit nicely into the hole. There are lots of curves and contours it has to fit around on all sides. In the end I welded bolts to the engine side of the hole to snug down the cover. This allows it to be removed using an impact in a minute or so but still fit nice and tightly. I have 1/16 inch high temp rubber gasket to put in between to make a really good seal (not done this yet).
Click to view attachment
This took a lot of putting it on, taking it off, using the shrinker here and there, hammering, swearing and the whole process generally being a pain in the butt. Here is the engine side, where I reinforced each bolt with a little metal pad.
Click to view attachment
The hole of course is way bigger than needed to access the front of the engine, but it will make it nice to work on it. I could have welded the original piece on and cut a smaller hole more like most people create, but this is how the car was done originally and I wanted to keep it like this. Dzus fasteners would have been nice too, but I don't think they would hold it as securely and in the age of battery impacts I don't think it will take much longer to get it off.
The square hole in the middle is also original to the car, which I decided to leave.
John
Been starting on the transmission for this car. I pressure cleaned what is supposed to be the better of the two spares I have. Someone painted this transmission silver in the past and some of the paint came off. I like the patina look it has. I got a rebuilt starter and some re-plated mounting hardware from Bruce Stone.
Click to view attachment
I also replaced the bushings in the shift rod using the two different size sockets method and a shop press. This makes it pretty easy, I have no idea how I did this on my other 914 back when I did not have a press.
Click to view attachment
The cold chisel is for refreshing the stake marks in the center of the roll pin so that it does not slide out. I am sure it will rust itself in there soon enough and be a pain to get out again next time. Pelican sells brass inserts, which look sweet but I did not see until after I replaced these with the plastic ones. The old bushings basically crumbled into dust in my hands.
John
Click to view attachment
I also replaced the bushings in the shift rod using the two different size sockets method and a shop press. This makes it pretty easy, I have no idea how I did this on my other 914 back when I did not have a press.
Click to view attachment
The cold chisel is for refreshing the stake marks in the center of the roll pin so that it does not slide out. I am sure it will rust itself in there soon enough and be a pain to get out again next time. Pelican sells brass inserts, which look sweet but I did not see until after I replaced these with the plastic ones. The old bushings basically crumbled into dust in my hands.
John
This is really coming along! You are truly saving a piece of history here.
I really enjoy watching this restoration as it moves along. Nice work.
John, I’m really enjoying this. Progress is looking great. So cool seeing IMSA history being saved. Loved going to Pocono seeing these and March’s & 962’s. Carry on!
Dion
Dion
John, this brings me a huge amount of joy to see! I look forward to the day we see this thing driving!!!
Glad to hear your health is improving, cheers!
Thomas
Thanks for the support everyone!
Your front end panel lives on as you see Thomas.
How are your own projects going?
John
Here is a video of the engine I am planning to use in this car. It was built by Blake Meredith, and he allowed me to share this video. The sound synch is off at the beginning of the video probably due to my amateur conversion of the video format.
https://youtu.be/-MJCXKLQLoY
A few specs on the engine from Blake:
Built on a 4R case with 87.5mm big dome pistons, a boat tailed case and polished stock rods. Blake added added ARP rod and head bolts, had the case line bored and cylinder registers decked by CE. The whole assembly has been balanced. It has Nickies by LN Engineering on it. The comp ratio is 9.9 to 1. It has 46I 40E valves with 36mm ports on the intake and exhaust. It has GE40 cams with Jerry Wood valve springs and titanium retainers. It has the tall 36mm intake manifolds with 40mm Webers on it.
It sounds awesome and I can't wait to get it in the car!
John
https://youtu.be/-MJCXKLQLoY
A few specs on the engine from Blake:
Built on a 4R case with 87.5mm big dome pistons, a boat tailed case and polished stock rods. Blake added added ARP rod and head bolts, had the case line bored and cylinder registers decked by CE. The whole assembly has been balanced. It has Nickies by LN Engineering on it. The comp ratio is 9.9 to 1. It has 46I 40E valves with 36mm ports on the intake and exhaust. It has GE40 cams with Jerry Wood valve springs and titanium retainers. It has the tall 36mm intake manifolds with 40mm Webers on it.
It sounds awesome and I can't wait to get it in the car!
John
Painted the cockpit. Glad to be done welding and grinding in here.
Click to view attachment
Starting to reassemble the front end.
Click to view attachment
Mostly back together.
Click to view attachment
Added a fuel shut off valve and fuel pressure sensor. These are located after the final fuel filter and before the line going into the tunnel line.
Click to view attachment
More to come.
John
Click to view attachment
Starting to reassemble the front end.
Click to view attachment
Mostly back together.
Click to view attachment
Added a fuel shut off valve and fuel pressure sensor. These are located after the final fuel filter and before the line going into the tunnel line.
Click to view attachment
More to come.
John
With the cockpit painted, I can button up a few things. The oil supply fitting on the bottom of the tank is pretty scarred up. I used a Koul tools hone to clean it up.
Click to view attachment
This is a 37 degree diamond hone for resurfacing AN fittings. It looks like it did a nice job, I hope it does not leak.
Click to view attachment
Cut a hole in the very flexible rubber on the firewall sealing grommet and slide it down the -16 oil supply hose.
Click to view attachment
Attach the oil line, slide down the grommet, drill and rivet it in place.
Click to view attachment
I will add some edging where the oil line goes into the heater tube.
Now the firewall is pretty much closed up. Taking off this service plate to connect to the AN fuel lines in the tunnel was a big help, and I think it was worth the effort.
Very satisfying to get this done.
John
Click to view attachment
This is a 37 degree diamond hone for resurfacing AN fittings. It looks like it did a nice job, I hope it does not leak.
Click to view attachment
Cut a hole in the very flexible rubber on the firewall sealing grommet and slide it down the -16 oil supply hose.
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Attach the oil line, slide down the grommet, drill and rivet it in place.
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I will add some edging where the oil line goes into the heater tube.
Now the firewall is pretty much closed up. Taking off this service plate to connect to the AN fuel lines in the tunnel was a big help, and I think it was worth the effort.
Very satisfying to get this done.
John
Getting ready to test fit the engine so I can work on the oil and fuel connections.
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Original style engine mount.
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Now I need a transmission...
John
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Original style engine mount.
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Now I need a transmission...
John
Before I forget, I added a rubber gasket and lock nuts to the engine service plate. This thing was a serious pain to get to fit nicely but I think it turned out well.
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More to come...
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More to come...
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Jul 11 2021, 11:17 AM) 
With the cockpit painted, I can button up a few things. The oil supply fitting on the bottom of the tank is pretty scarred up. I used a Koul tools hone to clean it up.
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This is a 37 degree diamond hone for resurfacing AN fittings. It looks like it did a nice job, I hope it does not leak.
If you do have issues, there are soft seals which can be used on the face of the taper to fill small imperfections. They are called conical fitting seals (usually) and are made by a number of companies (Parker/SECO/Del/Voishon).
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapa...l37fittings.php
I haven't used this brand, but they are safe to use. Actually, a lot of 37/45 degree fittings on the Space Shuttle Oribiter used the Voishon version for added safety.
Car is looking great BTW!
OK thanks, that is a great tip, Jim.
I think I will order some in the sizes I have just in case.
Are they considered a permanent fix, or a temporary solution?
John
Time to refresh this core transmission.
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The synchros and dog teeth are pretty worn out everywhere except 5th gear.
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Pulled it apart and replaced all the synchros and dog teeth.
I also replaced the first/reverse slider and 2nd/3rd slider.
The mainshaft bearing race was broken so that got replaced as well.
I bought the chromoly bearing retainer, hoping it will keep the new bearing in one piece.
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John
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The synchros and dog teeth are pretty worn out everywhere except 5th gear.
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Pulled it apart and replaced all the synchros and dog teeth.
I also replaced the first/reverse slider and 2nd/3rd slider.
The mainshaft bearing race was broken so that got replaced as well.
I bought the chromoly bearing retainer, hoping it will keep the new bearing in one piece.
Click to view attachment
John
Now I have 2 big decisions to make and I could use some input.
First, I have a set of 930 stub axles, CVs and the corresponding sway-away axles for a 914. They are stronger and the CVs are available for $80 from pelican. Downside is I have to destroy the existing rear bearings in my axles to use them, which were rebuilt by PMB.
If I have 200 HP to the wheels are the 930 CVs a necessary or worthwhile upgrade?
Second, should I upgrade to the billet intermediate plate at this HP level?
If I do, will I have to reset the pinion depth? That is something I can't do myself and would need to find a shop here in Florida that can do it. I know this is overkill for a typical 914, but with 12 inch rear tires and a 2.5L six, is this when the upgrade is worth while?
I am not adverse to starting with the 914 axles and upgrading down the road. Pulling the engine and transmission is not that time consuming. I would hate to break the smaller axles or CVs the first time at the track though.
What do you guys think?
Cross posting this in the paddock.
John
First, I have a set of 930 stub axles, CVs and the corresponding sway-away axles for a 914. They are stronger and the CVs are available for $80 from pelican. Downside is I have to destroy the existing rear bearings in my axles to use them, which were rebuilt by PMB.
If I have 200 HP to the wheels are the 930 CVs a necessary or worthwhile upgrade?
Second, should I upgrade to the billet intermediate plate at this HP level?
If I do, will I have to reset the pinion depth? That is something I can't do myself and would need to find a shop here in Florida that can do it. I know this is overkill for a typical 914, but with 12 inch rear tires and a 2.5L six, is this when the upgrade is worth while?
I am not adverse to starting with the 914 axles and upgrading down the road. Pulling the engine and transmission is not that time consuming. I would hate to break the smaller axles or CVs the first time at the track though.
What do you guys think?
Cross posting this in the paddock.
John
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Aug 6 2021, 10:19 AM)
OK thanks, that is a great tip, Jim.
I think I will order some in the sizes I have just in case.
Are they considered a permanent fix, or a temporary solution?
Permanent
Well, they are single use as you'd expect so they do require replacement when opening up the fitting.
If this 914 will see track time, overbuild where you can. My .02. 
I imagine with the kind of grip those tyres can generate with the combo of 200HP , I’d say do the upgrade if at all possible. It won’t be detrimental except to the wallet
It’s looking great John. Lots of nice work.
It’s looking great John. Lots of nice work.
OK, having discussed this with various people I think I will start out with the 94mm CVs and then upgrade to 100s down the road if I need to. It seems like the 108s are totally overkill for the engine I have. I think I will just hold on to those parts for now in case I do ever need them, or maybe trade them to someone with a set of 100mm stub axles and matching bits.
It seems like the consensus is good cooling is the key to keeping your transmission alive, so I will focus on that for now. I will try running the cooler and pump that came with the car because these are probably the race parts used at Sebring and Daytona, etc.
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The original adapters are all -8 AN so that is what I will use.
John
It seems like the consensus is good cooling is the key to keeping your transmission alive, so I will focus on that for now. I will try running the cooler and pump that came with the car because these are probably the race parts used at Sebring and Daytona, etc.
Click to view attachment
The original adapters are all -8 AN so that is what I will use.
John
Shane really helped me out by donating most of a set of axles and CVs he got from a salvaged 914. 
They were missing the CVs on one end so I bought the machined
type I style from PMB performance, who also helped me out with a lot of the fixings needed. I have no idea what vehicle those CV gaskets are for but I realized they are
way too small to fit. Ordered a set of the 94mm ones.
Using the 94mm CVs and axles until I get a lot of the other issues with the car ironed out, like getting the engine to run and not leak oil and fuel.
I also like the idea of breaking the CV joint instead of my ring or pinion gears.
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Finished up the transmission refurb. Added an oil inlet fitting at front for cool oil returning from the transmission radiator. Copying the approach Shane used for his race box.
This should bring cool oil to the ring and pinion gears, then flow towards the back cooling the other gears.
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Added another fitting at the back end to extract oil to go to the pump. If this leaks I will add some JB weld to the inside and outside.
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John
They were missing the CVs on one end so I bought the machinedtype I style from PMB performance, who also helped me out with a lot of the fixings needed. I have no idea what vehicle those CV gaskets are for but I realized they are
way too small to fit. Ordered a set of the 94mm ones.
Using the 94mm CVs and axles until I get a lot of the other issues with the car ironed out, like getting the engine to run and not leak oil and fuel.
I also like the idea of breaking the CV joint instead of my ring or pinion gears.
Click to view attachment
Finished up the transmission refurb. Added an oil inlet fitting at front for cool oil returning from the transmission radiator. Copying the approach Shane used for his race box.
This should bring cool oil to the ring and pinion gears, then flow towards the back cooling the other gears.
Click to view attachment
Added another fitting at the back end to extract oil to go to the pump. If this leaks I will add some JB weld to the inside and outside.
Click to view attachment
John
Time to mate up the engine and transmission.
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And then, just like that, after a mere 12 years, the engine is installed in the car!
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Did you feel the disturbance in the force?
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Now on to routing the oil and fuel lines in the engine bay.
John
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And then, just like that, after a mere 12 years, the engine is installed in the car!
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Did you feel the disturbance in the force?
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Now on to routing the oil and fuel lines in the engine bay.
John
![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Nice Work John
Loving all of this progress John! Nice work!
r
Thanks guys, this thread is keeping me motivated!
Mocking up the exhaust. I will add gaskets and lock nuts when I am satisfied with everything. I want to get all the various engine bay lines and parts in place to make sure everything will work together before finalizing anything. Need to add the axles, shift rod, clutch cable, etc. to complete the mock up. Want to make sure the oil lines are not touching the exhaust. Getting everything to fit and not interfere in the space available is one of the bigger challenges of building a customized car like this.
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Adding a muffler for the initial testing. There is no way I can run open exhaust in the neighborhood where I live without people calling the national guard.
The muffler occupies the same central space where the original builders placed the transmission cooler, so I will have to figure out another location for it until I can install megaphones or some other kind of split exhaust system.
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At this point, I just want to get the car running and start debugging the various systems.
Next steps are completing the oil lines.
I want to keep the oil supply line at the same level all the way to the engine so that gravity will ensure there is oil waiting at the pickup point. I will make sure the oil line is not the lowest part of the car and is as protected as possible.
The return line I may loop over the transmission on its way back to the front of the car. I think this will work because the oil is being actively pumped out of the engine into the return line.
Does anyone see any problems with that approach?
John
Mocking up the exhaust. I will add gaskets and lock nuts when I am satisfied with everything. I want to get all the various engine bay lines and parts in place to make sure everything will work together before finalizing anything. Need to add the axles, shift rod, clutch cable, etc. to complete the mock up. Want to make sure the oil lines are not touching the exhaust. Getting everything to fit and not interfere in the space available is one of the bigger challenges of building a customized car like this.
Click to view attachment
Adding a muffler for the initial testing. There is no way I can run open exhaust in the neighborhood where I live without people calling the national guard.
The muffler occupies the same central space where the original builders placed the transmission cooler, so I will have to figure out another location for it until I can install megaphones or some other kind of split exhaust system.
Click to view attachment
At this point, I just want to get the car running and start debugging the various systems.
Next steps are completing the oil lines.
I want to keep the oil supply line at the same level all the way to the engine so that gravity will ensure there is oil waiting at the pickup point. I will make sure the oil line is not the lowest part of the car and is as protected as possible.
The return line I may loop over the transmission on its way back to the front of the car. I think this will work because the oil is being actively pumped out of the engine into the return line.
Does anyone see any problems with that approach?
John
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