John,
I would figure out what organization you plan on racing with first.
I would also recommend using dzus fastener (or other similar fasteners) so you can change the body work to match each organizations requirements. I race with Midwest Council and VSCDA around here and have no issues with the wider IMSA flares. When I went to an event run by SVRA they wanted to put me in with the prototypes or the Mustang/ Corvette group. Having only a 2.2 L six this was less than appealing. The wheel size will also come into play, VSCDA requires 15 x 7s for my car so using my 12” wide Gotti’s is just not an option. The IMSA race car I am now restoring will be capable of a quick fender and wheel change to get me into any vintage club.
The fenders from GT racing are called GT quarter panels but look similar to what came on your car…I guess you need to confirm what you would get from them.
Full Version: Starting a 1971 IMSA 914 Restoration
Glenn,
Thanks that is great advice. I will plan to use dzus for the rear flares.
Is there the same issue for the front fenders or would you bond those on?
I will check into the GT racing flares. Their web site says they fit 12" rims. I will
call and talk to them.
I have been studying the various rule books and noticed the heavy class you get
into once you have a larger engine than the factory 914 GTs used, which was less
than the 2.5s used in GTU.
To make this thing authentic to what it was I want to make it a GTU car with IMSA
GTU bodywork for when I go to Pebble Beach.
If I can swap on narrower bodywork for an event, then that would be great.
I'm trying to finish the bodywork and paint before the Tropic Ramble in early
November. I am going to need to go on a major parts buying kick here to have
everything I need.
Been working on and off on this project for 4 years now.
John
Thanks that is great advice. I will plan to use dzus for the rear flares.
Is there the same issue for the front fenders or would you bond those on?
I will check into the GT racing flares. Their web site says they fit 12" rims. I will
call and talk to them.
I have been studying the various rule books and noticed the heavy class you get
into once you have a larger engine than the factory 914 GTs used, which was less
than the 2.5s used in GTU.
To make this thing authentic to what it was I want to make it a GTU car with IMSA
GTU bodywork for when I go to Pebble Beach.
If I can swap on narrower bodywork for an event, then that would be great.
I'm trying to finish the bodywork and paint before the Tropic Ramble in early
November. I am going to need to go on a major parts buying kick here to have
everything I need.
Been working on and off on this project for 4 years now.
John
Welded on a new sill plate.
Click to view attachment
I need the engine side to match this bulkhead motor mount.
I think this is the stock style 914-6 engine mount.
Does anyone have one for sale or know where I can get one?
Click to view attachment
John
Click to view attachment
I need the engine side to match this bulkhead motor mount.
I think this is the stock style 914-6 engine mount.
Does anyone have one for sale or know where I can get one?
Click to view attachment
John
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Jul 22 2012, 10:15 PM) 
Welded on a new sill plate.
Click to view attachment
I need the engine side to match this bulkhead motor mount.
I think this is the stock style 914-6 engine mount.
Does anyone have one for sale or know where I can get one?
Click to view attachment
John
John, Almost Positive I have one. I will check when I get back from Orlando tomorrow
T.C.
That would be great, T.C.
John
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Jul 22 2012, 09:06 PM)
Thanks that is great advice. I will plan to use dzus for the rear flares.
Is there the same issue for the front fenders or would you bond those on?
I am dzusing the front fenders as well
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Jul 22 2012, 09:06 PM)
I have been studying the various rule books and noticed the heavy class you get
into once you have a larger engine than the factory 914 GTs used, which was less
than the 2.5s used in GTU.
from what I have seen many vintage groups are ok with a 2.5L
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Jul 22 2012, 09:06 PM)
To make this thing authentic to what it was I want to make it a GTU car with IMSA
GTU bodywork for when I go to Pebble Beach.
i will see your there
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Jul 22 2012, 09:06 PM)
Been working on and off on this project for 4 years now.
I feel your pain but at least I have a car to race in the interim
You are kicking ass with your current IMSA racer, Glenn, looks like fun.
I ordered the GT-Racing rear fenders. I called them to talk about the fenders.
They have had the molds for these fenders since the 80s and weren't sure
exactly where they came from. They really look like the ones that came on the
car, that was a great tip Glenn. I briefly looked at them while I was doing my
web search but they did not look wide enough. They say 12" rims will fit so that
should be good with the Gottis. I noticed that under the red paint on my Gottis
is the gold color that you see in the old pictures.
GT-racing has to make up a set for me because some dude named Britain ordered
their last sets for some crazy 914 he is building. The GT-racing guys were like
what is going on with all the wide 914 builds right now?
John
I ordered the GT-Racing rear fenders. I called them to talk about the fenders.
They have had the molds for these fenders since the 80s and weren't sure
exactly where they came from. They really look like the ones that came on the
car, that was a great tip Glenn. I briefly looked at them while I was doing my
web search but they did not look wide enough. They say 12" rims will fit so that
should be good with the Gottis. I noticed that under the red paint on my Gottis
is the gold color that you see in the old pictures.
GT-racing has to make up a set for me because some dude named Britain ordered
their last sets for some crazy 914 he is building. The GT-racing guys were like
what is going on with all the wide 914 builds right now?
John
Added some bars extending down to the transmission mounts.
Click to view attachment
Welded on a new engine shelf.
Click to view attachment
There were some pea sized rust holes showing here.
Click to view attachment
MMM, crusty. Your car is just as bad, it is just hidden under nice paint.
Click to view attachment
Keep digging until solid stuff is found. Still a little more trimming to go.
Click to view attachment
This is actually easy to fix because you can just stand right next to it and work.
No leaning way over or crawling underneath anything to get to it.
John
Click to view attachment
Welded on a new engine shelf.
Click to view attachment
There were some pea sized rust holes showing here.
Click to view attachment
MMM, crusty. Your car is just as bad, it is just hidden under nice paint.
Click to view attachment
Keep digging until solid stuff is found. Still a little more trimming to go.
Click to view attachment
This is actually easy to fix because you can just stand right next to it and work.
No leaning way over or crawling underneath anything to get to it.
John
Whoa, I didn't know that was the timeframe John! Maybe you could give me an idea of what weekends you want to work on the car and I can tell you which ones I could make? Lookin good as usual. Glad you found that rust under the fender before you went ahead and painted it. It surely would have come back to haunt you later on.
Being a total newbie to the club and somewhat in the middle stages of a restoration of my 914 that I have had over 32 years. Jesus did I just say 32 years???
Your metal work is phenomenal! Makes me want to go back in and tear some things apart and do a better job! I wish I would have taken the time to do some research and find this website when I first started to tear into my car 8 years ago. I am just thankful the car was a fairly dry California car when I bought it and the metal work I had to do wasn't anything like you have taken on. My hat is off to you and your work inspires me to do much better from here on out.
Jerry
Your metal work is phenomenal! Makes me want to go back in and tear some things apart and do a better job! I wish I would have taken the time to do some research and find this website when I first started to tear into my car 8 years ago. I am just thankful the car was a fairly dry California car when I bought it and the metal work I had to do wasn't anything like you have taken on. My hat is off to you and your work inspires me to do much better from here on out.
Jerry
Hey Jerry, thanks for the kind words. I am really just an amateur hack compared to a lot
of the folks on 914 World and they have likewise inspired me to keep trying to improve
the quality of my work. When you see really good work, especially in person, you know
what it is possible to do. When I can shrink as well as distort and abuse metal then I
will be happy.
Some of my favorite threads that I learned a lot from are:
Diggin into hell
Bringing out the dead
Start a thread and document what you are doing with your car, it is great for keeping
your motivation going.
John
of the folks on 914 World and they have likewise inspired me to keep trying to improve
the quality of my work. When you see really good work, especially in person, you know
what it is possible to do. When I can shrink as well as distort and abuse metal then I
will be happy.
Some of my favorite threads that I learned a lot from are:
Diggin into hell
Bringing out the dead
Start a thread and document what you are doing with your car, it is great for keeping
your motivation going.
John
Rebuilding the cowl starting with the inner piece (peace).
Vacuumed a lot of mud dauber nests out of the windshield frame and door post.
Banging on the windshield frame dislodges the old nests and they fall down into
this area. After a lot of banging and digging with a screwdriver I cleaned them all
out. Shot a bunch of etching primer in there before closing it up.
Click to view attachment
Next add the outer piece.
Click to view attachment
Then magically close it up and paint it. Still some pinholes to fix.
Click to view attachment
Now on to yet more nuisance welding. There were a buncha holes like this in the bottom
of the windshield frame.
Click to view attachment
Add a backer behind the hole, holding it in place for welding with some screwdrivers.
Click to view attachment
Just sploog up the holes with loads of weld bead and prepare to fill the next hole.
Using some magnets to keep the next backer in place until it is tacked.
Click to view attachment
All ground down nicely.
Click to view attachment
Weld up the radio antenna hole. I was almost disappointed to find the fender and cowl
are solid on this side.
Click to view attachment
Weld up a hole I believe was used to route the fuel overflow line from the cell to the
ping pong ball apparatus.
Click to view attachment
I've been working towards closing all the unneeded holes in the firewalls. There must be
ten other holes like this one I have welded up. Getting closer every week...
John
Vacuumed a lot of mud dauber nests out of the windshield frame and door post.
Banging on the windshield frame dislodges the old nests and they fall down into
this area. After a lot of banging and digging with a screwdriver I cleaned them all
out. Shot a bunch of etching primer in there before closing it up.
Click to view attachment
Next add the outer piece.
Click to view attachment
Then magically close it up and paint it. Still some pinholes to fix.
Click to view attachment
Now on to yet more nuisance welding. There were a buncha holes like this in the bottom
of the windshield frame.
Click to view attachment
Add a backer behind the hole, holding it in place for welding with some screwdrivers.
Click to view attachment
Just sploog up the holes with loads of weld bead and prepare to fill the next hole.
Using some magnets to keep the next backer in place until it is tacked.
Click to view attachment
All ground down nicely.
Click to view attachment
Weld up the radio antenna hole. I was almost disappointed to find the fender and cowl
are solid on this side.
Click to view attachment
Weld up a hole I believe was used to route the fuel overflow line from the cell to the
ping pong ball apparatus.
Click to view attachment
I've been working towards closing all the unneeded holes in the firewalls. There must be
ten other holes like this one I have welded up. Getting closer every week...
John
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Aug 12 2012, 08:54 PM)
Weld up the radio antenna hole. I was almost disappointed to find the fender and cowl
are solid on this side.
Damn that's a cool ride.Keep up the great work!
QUOTE(URY914 @ Aug 22 2012, 06:03 PM)
John, have seen this one...
Thanks for the photo, Paul. I know it is intended for John's 914, but I always like seeing those old Group 44 cars. I do remember seeing the Group 44 TR8 way back when.
What size welding wire are you using? Looks like you need to drop your wire speed and up your heat slightly.
Paul, that picture was posted by Glenn in post #206, but thanks for thinking of me.
You have a great collection of vintage photos for sure.
I always use .30 wire because it feeds better than .23 with my Hobart welder. This
welder only has 4 voltage settings. Been thinking about upgrading to a Miller 180 or
other machine with infinite voltage control.
John
Been working a lot but not posting much.
The rust repair is done. Major welding is done except for a few small things.
I sanded and cleaned it as much as I could stand and then sprayed a couple coats of primer/sealer to protect it during the mock up phase.
Click to view attachment
When everything has been bolted on it will get taken apart for final painting.
John
The rust repair is done. Major welding is done except for a few small things.
I sanded and cleaned it as much as I could stand and then sprayed a couple coats of primer/sealer to protect it during the mock up phase.
Click to view attachment
When everything has been bolted on it will get taken apart for final painting.
John
What a difference. Your car has come a long way. Can't wait to see it continue.
Thanks man, seems like a way of life more than a project after a while.
You are going to the tropical ramble, right?
You will be able to see the car in person there.
John
I'll be there. Can't wait to see it in person. There aren't many get togethers that can claim attendance by a 914 with IMSA experience. Combine that with Joe's RS and all the others and it should be a really great time.
Got the GT racing flares and front bumper on the IMSA car now.
Got the new suspension and wheels on.
Starting to look good.
Got a nice set of steel rocker covers from Bruce Stone (BDStone).
Got a killer restored pedal set and a lot of other hard to find parts from Bruce Stone.
I ground 10 lbs of bondo and kitty hair repairs off the front bumper and replaced
them with 3 layers of close weave cloth.
Now the bumper weighs half as much.
Its taken 20 hours to rework it to fit right and still 10 hours to go...
Love the itchy fiberglass sanding...
Trying to reassemble the car enough to be interesting for people to see at the Ramble.
I am going for the patina look with original, untouched panels where possible.
John
Flares are screwed on for mockup, will be dzus-ed later.
Front suspension has:
New Koni adjustable shocks.
22mm torsion bars.
New ball joints and turbo tie rods.
Charley bar? 21 mm sway bar with arms and hardware I replated and chromated.
Need a new bar because the original is rust damaged.
New weltmeister drop links (originals are bad).
No wheel spacers.
Need new brake rotors.
908 repro brake calipers.
Rear suspension has:
New Koni adjustable shocks.
No sway bar.
275 lb Eibach springs on coil overs.
1.5 inch wheel spacers.
Need new brake rotors.
914-6 rear brake calipers.
Click to view attachment
John
Front suspension has:
New Koni adjustable shocks.
22mm torsion bars.
New ball joints and turbo tie rods.
Charley bar? 21 mm sway bar with arms and hardware I replated and chromated.
Need a new bar because the original is rust damaged.
New weltmeister drop links (originals are bad).
No wheel spacers.
Need new brake rotors.
908 repro brake calipers.
Rear suspension has:
New Koni adjustable shocks.
No sway bar.
275 lb Eibach springs on coil overs.
1.5 inch wheel spacers.
Need new brake rotors.
914-6 rear brake calipers.
Click to view attachment
John
Working on the front bumper.
Click to view attachment
It is good itchy fun. I love the smell of polyester resin and hardener.
Click to view attachment
The original electrical box and fuse panel was mounted on the tunnel next to the
driver. This put all the fuses close to hand if there was a problem. Relays were
mounted next to whatever they controlled.
The box is riveted out of random metal they had on hand. The inside looks like it
came from an old sign. The craftsmanship is very good, with neat bends and
even lines of rivets. They used glass auto fuses and a 914 targa top latch to hold
it closed.
Click to view attachment
John
Click to view attachment
It is good itchy fun. I love the smell of polyester resin and hardener.
Click to view attachment
The original electrical box and fuse panel was mounted on the tunnel next to the
driver. This put all the fuses close to hand if there was a problem. Relays were
mounted next to whatever they controlled.
The box is riveted out of random metal they had on hand. The inside looks like it
came from an old sign. The craftsmanship is very good, with neat bends and
even lines of rivets. They used glass auto fuses and a 914 targa top latch to hold
it closed.
Click to view attachment
John
Just be sure to wear a mask so you don't smell that resin and hardener! Looks great!
John, I need to post some more pictures of the day T.C. and I picked it up.
That car was in SAD shape.
You are building it back better than it ever was to begin with.
That car was in SAD shape.
You are building it back better than it ever was to begin with.
QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 19 2012, 01:37 PM)
John, I need to post some more pictures of the day T.C. and I picked it up.
That car was in SAD shape.
You are building it back better than it ever was to begin with.
It would be cool to see more pictures from then.
I don't think we realized just how bad it was until I pulled the fuel cell.
The whole front end was missing or rotten to the point of falling apart.
It is still pretty rough in a lot of ways, but totally solid.
The front end shows a lot of weld seams, some original, some from my repairs.
It would take 2 new front fenders and someone better than me to make it look factory again.
John
Vintage race cars are supposed to show evidence of past battles, at least underneath the new shiny exterior. 
Its looking real good John!
Its looking real good John!
QUOTE(carr914 @ Nov 26 2012, 11:59 AM)
Great picture TC!
Any more of that car?
John
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Nov 26 2012, 09:32 PM)
QUOTE(carr914 @ Nov 26 2012, 11:59 AM)
Great picture TC!
Any more of that car?
John
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-car...914-6-sale.html
John,
I didn't ever really get to see the pics of when it was first delivered. Man, you have some cohones for tackling that car. I noticed some of the white fiberglass pieces - were those spares that came with that car? What I saw in Deland was all painted. Also, that fuse box looks scary! I can't believe thats all they had keeping those fuses from rattling out and that there was no insulation keeping the metal ends of each fuse from grounding on accident.
Regarding T.C.'s post - I had no idea a 914 had ever won its class at Daytona, let alone finish 5th overall (1980). Very cool stuff.
I didn't ever really get to see the pics of when it was first delivered. Man, you have some cohones for tackling that car. I noticed some of the white fiberglass pieces - were those spares that came with that car? What I saw in Deland was all painted. Also, that fuse box looks scary! I can't believe thats all they had keeping those fuses from rattling out and that there was no insulation keeping the metal ends of each fuse from grounding on accident.
Regarding T.C.'s post - I had no idea a 914 had ever won its class at Daytona, let alone finish 5th overall (1980). Very cool stuff.
QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Nov 27 2012, 06:29 AM)
John,
I didn't ever really get to see the pics of when it was first delivered. Man, you have some cohones for tackling that car. I noticed some of the white fiberglass pieces - were those spares that came with that car? What I saw in Deland was all painted. Also, that fuse box looks scary! I can't believe thats all they had keeping those fuses from rattling out and that there was no insulation keeping the metal ends of each fuse from grounding on accident.
Regarding T.C.'s post - I had no idea a 914 had ever won its class at Daytona, let alone finish 5th overall (1980). Very cool stuff.
George,
The car did come with a spare front trunk lid in white.
I got new flares from GT racing and primed them. The other parts are the
original trunk lids, roof and doors. The original parts I will save cause I love
the worn look to them. I'll get replacements for those and paint them up real
nicely to annoy Paul.
I don't think anyone realized how bad the car was until the fuel cell was pulled.
The car was really a safety nightmare. There was one bolt holding the shoulder
belts to the firewall, plastic and rubber oil and gas lines running through the
cabin left and right. It had a fire system which was a good thing because it
was a fire trap.
I need to post some updates on this thread...
John
Thanks Paul!
How do you think the resto is turning out after seeing it in person?
John
John,
I don't have much room to bug you as I haven't been on mine lately.... But I could use a boost. How's the car coming?
Thomas
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