Look Ma, no tar.

Lotsa holes though.

Plenty of general surface rust too.

Are you going to reinforce the clutch tube, as long as you're in there?

-Rusty

BAHAHAHAHA. Famous last words.

Does the /6 have undercoating that you plan on removing? If so you can try killing two birds with one stone and have someone scrape the bottom side as you heat and scrape the inside of the floor pan.

My personal weapon in avoiding DPO status is to bury my mistakes or blame them on the PDPO.

Probably.

It looks like somebody might have been there already. From the underside of the pan directly under the tunnel and just at the front of the shifter are a couple of bumps that look like weld spots from the inside. Which is kind of a scary thought after seeing the rest of the "repairs".

I'm not doing a CW resto. This car is and will remain a driver.


Yup. But the tar has already been removed. The stuff on the bottom comes off really easy with 4.5" GRINDER and a big cup brush. I'm going to wait until the car is in the shop and on the rotisserie to finsh the underside.


This could very well have been the work of the PDPO. Who knows? Who cares. It's crap, that's for sure. But whata ya gonna do?

Clamshells? thread

I spent most of this week stripping more stuff off of the donor. It's a real PITA dismantling a car that you want to keep all of the parts off of and in good shape. Ferg came over yesterday evening to help cut off the right rear quarter. The large pics got corrupted, but here's a couple of small shots.

Thanks Ferg!

Inner quarter

The donor is getting light.

was the donor car a terminal cancer case before you decided to cut it up? something nobody seems to save. the little plastic tubes that cover the wire holding prongs. i soaked a bunch in oil eater (costco item, cheap and works well). microwaved them in water, after rincing. leave them in the hot water, go out to the car and put them on one at a time. they are maliable and can be shaped to near original form.

kevin

The donor car was an accident victim.

rusty, divemaster as in scuba? i have to ask, where the hell do you scuba dive in kansas aside from a pool and a few lakes?

kevin

I haven't seen this much garage floor on this side for over a year. Well, unless I was on ny back under a tub.



Nice front trunk pan



The "new" quarter for the /6



The remains



Rear



Front



Rear floor



Tomorrow I'll be stripping the quarter.

Mike,

1) It's evil that you are hacking up a silver car.

2) this is childish, but you missed a headlight. (and the motor, and the cover)

3) I have to work on my car tomorrow -- I figure if I do 8 - 10 % of what you are up to, I won't have to hide my head.

4) Can't wait to see the results!

kim.

Korijo might be able to use both of those seat mount brackets, if you are up to cutting them off.

Kim,

If I had known then what I know now, I probably would have spent all the money and had it fixed. Live and learn. But - the silver car will be a part of mine and several others for a long time to come. The rear apron and trunk floor is on a very nice car in Canada somewhere. The rest of the trunk floor will be in Eric Shea's GT replica in Salt Lake. Various small parts are on cars all over the country. And more parts will go out to help keep other teeners on the road.

Chris,

I'm going to use them on my /6. I'm updating the seats and backpad.

Mike,

I'm sure you know I'm messing with ya. Silver is my color for some reason. Of course, you've touched my cdn soft spot -- we'll gloss over that :-) -- but shipping rust free materials up north is a good thing! Some cars have to come apart to supply the needs of other sponsored cars. it's a good thing!

I'm currently hunting for the pics when you picked her up, 'cause I think it always helps to see the "good" that you (and the rest of us) are going after.

Rock on!

kim.

I know.

I saved those pics somewhere, but I couldn't find them if I had to. If you come across them, please post them here. OPne of those pics was my favorite shot of the car.

Mike,

I'll have the pics out of the archive tomorrow somehow (can't believe I can't just pick them out of the air -- after all, one of my cars is in a couple of 'em :-)

But that's for tomorrow -- btw, being ex-cdn means that your version of snow is not exactly intimidating to me

Of course no saturday is complete without ---



on the morrow.

kim.

I'm sure of that. What was significant was the date of this particular snow. It's not unheard of, but it's usually much less. On the up side, it was a beautiful sunny afternoon. The snow is just a memory now. Tomorrow will be a fine day for stripping paint.

See Ya.

The canadian dollar? ;-)

Ducking for cover,
Rusty

Dude, you may have hit your head when ducking!

The us buck has sunk noticeably over the last several months -- most noticable against the euro -- I was over last summer and the euro was at something like 98 cents. Last week it was at 1.12 or so. The cnd buck has move up 5 or 6 cents as well -- it's moved enough to worry economists as a high cdn dollar hurst the export business and that's a pretty big chunk of the cdn economy. (I actually prefer it low, 'cause I get paid in US buck -- well at least when I work -- and it makes family trips home sort of shopping heaven :-)



kim.

Mike -

As you go through the project on the rear quarter panel, I'd love to see more pictures of how you take the donor apart and put the panels onto the 6. I've got a 72 that is gonna need a right-rear quarter and I want to remove the old one in the cleanest way possible so seeing your process will be very helpful.

Also, what is the recommended treatment for body panels once you've got them down to bare metal. If you leave them bare, they'll likely get sureface rust before the body shop even gets to them. Is there something that is recommended to temporarily protect them from this?

My project is really small compared to what you are up against, but I really appreciate all the pictures so that we can all learn from this.

Nuts. Paint stripper, wire brush on the grinder, sanding, whatever. Stripping paint this way is waaaaaay too much labor. It's stooopid. There's a Din N Strip in town. It's that or media blasting for this quarter. It just isn't worth it.


That was the biggest reason why I started this thread and maintain it with pics and progress. If you have specific Q's, don't hesitate to ask. I can take pics at a moments notice.


Despite those snow pictures yesterday, Denver is a very dry climate. Flash rust doesn't happen real fast. But, to answer your question, a quick shot of primer after a days work removing paint will take care of that. I'm sure those that know a better method will share it with us. The stripping companies that I've seen or heard of shoot primer on the stripped part as soon as it comes out of the last rinse tank and is dried. I'll be sure to persue that option.

Update 5/19 - My body work guy said he has an acid wash that will remove any flash rust (and any thing else for that matter) that he uses prior to paint.



This project is more than my skills alone at this point can handle. A professional will be doing all of the metal/body work, and it will be farmed out from there for paint. I'm trying to do everything I can (grunt work) to avoid paying $45/hour to have him do it. He told me I could come over and do more grunt work while the car is in his shop to save myself some $$$. That will give me further opportunities to take pics. He's an hour across town though, so I will only be over there a couple of times a week.

My goal is to get all of the rust repaired properly. That is the utmost priority. The surface rust that is bubbling up on the left side of the car in spots will be repaired also. So I'm committed to a full exterior repaint as well. I don't think I'm going to pop for engine compartment, trunks, underside of floor pans to be painted. Only the exterior and the bare metal form the new quarter. That may change, we'll have to see after I get a professional looking over the car removing rust, etc... and we have a better idea of all the work that's going to be required.

I'd like to paint the floorpans under the car and inside the cockpit, the inner firewall, front trunk floor, etc... with POR 15 and topcoat with matched paint obtained when the car is being painted professionally (alternatively POR15 has an orange rock resistant top coat). I can do that myself after the car comes back. I need for this work to hold up over time, because I'm *NOT* building a garage queen.

Mike,

This is the first pic -- it was after lunch. I think you were heading over for gas, and was about to take the 101 south onramp.

kim.

Mike 'n' Mike,

This was at the lunch stop.

kim.

Thanks Kim!

Oil tank mounting thread

The more I get done on this project, the more I have to do. It looks like bondo OVER the factory paint.

Dude,

These are 30 year old cars. I'm guessing we all encounter surprises when digging underneath.

(I do agree that it is... er.. "intersting" that the bondo is on *top* of the original paint. It's hard to say much positive about the quality of some of the work done on some these cars. Personally, I think the work you are doing is cool -- another one is getting a better-than-average shot at lasting another 30 years)

Keep those pics coming -- others are using them to give their rides a fighting chance!

kim.

I know. It's frustrating though to find more work around every corner.

Mike,

I'm with you on the frustration. Worse, untill you go around every corner, you can say for sure that you won't find somethihg ... er... "interesting". (believe me, it's happening here too) But you've got around most of the corners that there are, and while there may be other "bings" along the way, there just isn't too many new opportunities to drive you crazy -- (shallow conselation, I know)

But the car looked great in the "day one pics" and it will ROCK on completion.

And we'll all get something out of your travel. And that always deserves "thanks",
and even more, it deserves --

kim.

Thanks for the encouragement Kim. I do appreciate it.

It looks like a marathon weekend ahead for me. The plan is to have the car to the shop next Saturday. Body guy says (as I expected and planned to do anyway) that the bondo has to come out. I asked him how he was going to fix all of the thin wavy panels. "Oh I'll metal work 'em." This guy is old school. I've seen a steel top he made for a 32 street rod, out of flat sheet stock. Nice. I shudder to think what it's going to cost me. The replacement quarter, front and rear lids all were dropped off at the stripper today.

The car is on the trailer and ready for the car wash tomorrow (early). Once I get the engine bay and inner fender wells cleaned up, the oil tank, bumpers, lights etc... will all be removed. Then the paint stripping really begins. I hope to have the exterior panels down to bare metal (or very nearly complete) by Sunday evening.

Oil tank is out. I posted a new thread to find out what to do with it.



All of the oil from the tank preserved this quarter pretty well. Oil leaks do serve a purpose sometimes.



I almost hate to remove the sail panel vinyl. Oh well, it's gotta go.



From the looks of this trim piece and the paint on the bottom of it from the poor mask job at the previous repaint, I think the vinyl is original to the car.



All of that rust in the right quarter, but yet the rear trunk still holds water. This was an hour after I got back from the car wash.



Tons of bondo over the factory paint. I'll be sanding for a long time.



I could have fixed the very small bend in the lip that someone bondoed over. There's is well over 1.8" of the stuff on this lip.



Tomorrow's another day.

Before - Still looks kinda purty....



If you think that bubbly rust is not going to be a big deal...



Here's the after shot



This spot looked just like the last one before paint removal



After -




Tools of the trade



Looks like I can get the car to the shop a week from Tuesday (first business day after Memorial weekend). That should give me time to finish up with parts and glass removal and do the finish/detail sanding. I'm going to take my wife out to dinner now. I'm beat. And burnt.

Mike,

This car is going to turn out awesome. No kidding. The ground work you are doing is the ugly necessary bit. Your perserverance will be worth it. The work you are doing looks really good. (kill that rust deamon! )

I can't wati to see it again!

kim.

ps. get a new fuel pump.

Thanks Kim. I'll be able to breath easier when it get to the shop. I'll probably still put in 20 hours a week on it when it's at the metal shop. Once it goes for paint (seperate shops), I'm off the hook for labor until it's finished. Then I get to put it all back together. That will probably take twice as long as it took to take it apart. I think I'll move the schedule out. I'll be happy if I can do some Fall driving.


Did you mean for me to get a fuel pump, or you got a fuel pump? Car running again? Out looking for vandals?

If you are looking for a "new" fuel pump - I've got the one that didn't work for my project. It looks just like a 4 cyl FI pump, but only puts out 5-10 psi. Mike suggested that it might be a 6 cyl pump, but I haven't been able to match the numbers to anything.

Ernie,
maybe i missed it, but what are the numbers on that fuel-pump in question ?

Andy

0580960009

Ginter's got first dibs on it if he wants it.

I talked with my body work guy again this morning. He's been delayed a bit which is great for me. It will give me more time to get the grunt work done. The car won't go into the shop until at least next week (after Memorial weekend) and maybe a bit later.

BTW - This guy deserves a plug. Steve Lindholm of S.L. Carrozzeria, 3135 E. Birch Ave. Parker CO. 80134 - 303-840-2140 If you are in or near the Denver Metro area and need quality work, I highly recommend him. He hasn't done any work on my car yet, but he came over to my house and looked at my web pics in order to do the estimate for the insurance claim after the moron swiped my right rear quarter. He used to be an insurance claims adjuster so he knows the game. I talk to him almost every week asking questions and picking his brain while stripping my car to prep for the work. He's always been extremely helpful and courteous. He's even willing to let me come and do work on the car in his shop. I hope to learn a lot in doing so. I've seen his work and it's fantastic. Top notch old school metal worker/panel beater.

Mike,

wow.. you had a very productive weekend. Looks really nice.
I hope to come over and see it in person before it goes in.

keep up the good work
brant

You're always welcome to come by. I don't get out much since starting this project. Rich and Joy are due in this Sunday. Maybe Sunday evening or late afternoon we might be able to make a git-together out of it. I'll post something to the local list when I have more info.

I am really enjoying monitoring your progress. Great pictures. Keep us posted. When I have to do this kind of work, I'll know who to ask.

That's the beauty of this medium. A simple search for a thread with info and pics in it could answer your questions without you even having to ask.

It will be awhile before I can do this. In the meantime I do this:

Nah. I was just whining about my frikk'n fuel pump. No, the car ain't running yet -- I just took care of the fuel leak. (I'm still completing the house project from the weekend -- seems being without a bathroom for too long gets people goin'!) After that, I go after the rest.

kim.

Good news, bad news today.

Good - I dropped the truck off tonight for the trailer brake controller install tomorrow.

Bad - Wife's Mommy wagon sounds like she's managed to go through yet another set of brake pads.

Good - Cowl appears to be decent. A tiny bit of surface rust in the windshield corners, but that's easy to take care of. Caught it soon enough.

Bad - The drivers door has a hole in it and some rust.

Good - I still have a pair of cherry doors from the 72 door mobile

Bad - If I use the other doors, I'll have to do a full repaint to change the color.


(Sorry about the Andy pic. This was a tough shot given the conditions)

Passenger side WS

Driver side WS