Thank you, Sir!

I found a decent set that needed a little bit of work. Kent did a bit of metalergic magic and revived them. All the parts shown were in various stages of disrepair, especially the valances. One was really bad. Kent beat them all back into shape, and re-painted them. He also lightly textured the inside of all the parts. They look real nice.

Here is a picture of the seat rail and early seat adjustment lever. Notice how the lever is straight with no bend to it like the later levers. It certainly did not look like this before. It matched the rest of the car, meaning it was really rough. More mundane pictures to follow. JimClick to view attachment

"Mundane" may be a bit too high brow of a word for this group......

Some additional pictures.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Sorry for the dual pictures

The CV joint were about $250.00 per side. I thought that was a decent price, considering mine were shot.

The gauges have been in, but I wanted to post a picture. These were done through North Hollywood Speedo. At that time it ran $936.00 for all three. I just recently sent out another speedo and it was over $700.00. I think they've realized there aren't many others doing this service. I can only think of two other places. They're good, but pricey.Click to view attachment

Before picture

I would have redone your speedometer for $500.

Sorry I couldn't make it up there today

No problem. Invitation still stands

Larmo, what happened to Clint Eastwood?

I finished putting the heater hoses and hose clamps in today. Along with the washer bottle. I ran the lines for the pump, but I'm going to need to spend some time to get them hooked up to the washer nozzles on the cowling. For future reference to those running these lines, run them before you snap the nozzles into place. Another lesson learned. If I ever do my other six, I have learned some invaluable lessons. Many of them cost me a lot of time and money. Oh well the adventure continues. JimClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

I checked my factory manuals and it shows the overflow hose for the master cylinder reservoir going in a clockwise direction. Many of the ones I have seen in person travel around the reservoir in a counter clockwise fashion. It's not that big of a thing, but I'm trying to stay original with a few exceptions. I have also seen only one set of hose clamps near the bottom of the hoses from the reservoir and others with hose clamps at top and bottom. I think it looks better having two sets, and in my twisted thinking it looks better and makes sense. Stay tuned, Jim.

I have never seen hose clamps on the fabric brake reservoir hoses.

Some other interesting things that I have found, there is an early reservoir cap and a late reservoir cap. The later one has a smal flange at the bottom and the early one does not. Also, there is a set of early front hood springs and a late set of front hood springs. The early ones have a slight bend near the curved portion of the springs and the late ones are straight. Neither set is easy to get off, but the early ones are a little easier. Another time consuming lesson learned.

Hey Bruce. I have seen them both ways. It must be some type of German bi-sexual thing.

Coming soon to a computer near you, the new updated and correct installation of the transmission mounts. Thanks to Andy and Kent.

Nah! I remember Mundane...Walter F. He ran for President some years ago.

I think you're right. He served under Jimmy Cooter if I remember correctly. Maybe I misremembered. I'm not sure.

Started messing around with the flapper boxes today. It makes me feel like I'm making progress, and I am. I just get a little impatient. I tend to want things yesterday. It drives my wife crazy, but what does she know? I also just received my fuel pump. You know when it has a Porsche symbol on the box, you had better put your knee pads on, because you're going to be driven around the room. I thought about having my existing pumps rebuilt, but I figure you can't go wrong with new. By the way, if someone rebuilds them I have three. Jim.

Transmission mounts.Click to view attachment

Wow rare flapper boxes with correct holes !

Here is today's installment of expensive lesson learned. On the left you will see a freshly plated 914/4 stub axle. On the right is a freshly plated 914/6 stub axle. If you are putting a six together, don't confuse the four stub axle with the six. The difference is virtually nothing in value for the four stubs and about 4 to 600 for the six stubs. Provided you can find a set. Notice the serial number on the four stub axle and none on the six stubs. The spline count is also different. I'm sure there are members here who would say that the difference is pretty evident, and it is now. But when I sold the freshly plated six stub axles for almost nothing I didn't know that. Another expensive lesson learned. Tune in regularly and I will point out other expensive lessons. Jim.

Ouch! I hate when that happens.

Yeah, Jims not near the top of the food chain. Luckily he surrounds himself with smart friends.

I mixed up my pictures. The one on the left is for a 911. I thought it would work on a six, but they are not interchangeable. The one on the right is definitely for a six. Carry on.

There are 911 stubs that fit. You just have to find the correct ones. 914-6 stubs have there own part number but there is a 911 stub that's identical with a 911 part number.

That is pretty damn descriptive! Thanks for the reply!

This is my latest post of overpriced NOS parts for a 914. This mirror is not specific to a 914/6 but it is correct for an early 914. Notice how narrow it is. It obviously will fit all years though. Another one of those parts that you have to re-finance your house to get. Or in my case, re-finance my trailer. As some of you can relate, as you progress through your restoration you reach a point that you don't care about the cost anymore you just want the car finished.

Jim sorry for the hijack and probably a dopy question. So out of that table which are the ones that would work with a six? I'm assuming the early stuff, but hey like Jim driveshafts and stubs have always been a bit of a mystery

I think its the 69-71.
I have a stub chart somewhere but not finding it.

Sorry, triple post.

Jesus....I just went through this whole thread. Absolutely top-notch, beyond comparison work throughout this entire build. This is definitely the bench mark in addition to Andy's car. That's so pretty I would want to put it in my living room to enjoy and keep clean and pretty.

Jim was going to put it in his living room, but we pointed out it would probably fall through the floor of his mobile home.

Dave. When you least expect it, expect it. You're in my sights, bizatch.

Thanks, Mikey. I appreciate that. One day, very soon, your six will be in the same arena!

Here is a picture of the correct early horn and the correct TN/1 driving light lense. Thanks to Blue6. The horn is the same for a Volkswagen. Notice the slotted screws as opposed to the later riveted cover.

Looking fantastic. I think those rubber plugs are installed back to front.

Great work ! and a whole lot of unbelievable parts !
You're right about the early horns. Manufactured with screws and a VW type horn.
I'm not a big fan of the sound but it is the right thing.
On all the early cars I've owned and seen the front of the horn was gray-ish
Maybe even galvanised ? Haven't seen it in black.

The horns on my 71 914-4 are riveted not screwed....and I'm pretty sure they are original.

Are you positive about the screws?

On the far right and left they are reversed. Of the donor cars I have disassembled I have found them to be that way. Thanks, Jim

Based on opinions from Bruce Stone and donor cars I have had, these are what I have found to be correct for my 70. Could be variations though.

I have seen them that way as well. With the gray or galvanized it just looks unfinished. I opted for black because to me it looks better. Even though you don't really see them. Thank you, Sir.

Both of the pictured cars are 1970s...orange one 3/'70...yellow one 5/'70 ?
Both are 6s but I don't think that matters.
It's an early thing.

In my experience most 1970 914s horns had screws

Please note the color.
Appear to be galvanized

Glen is correct, 70 cars had screws. Horn covers are galvanized not plated or painted.

Let there be light. The horns work as well. Stay tuned for when the headlights pop up.