Wow, that is cool. Thanks for the info! I hate the finger slide or rotary track so much I've always either resorted for scratch start and constant current or ended up in weird positions working the pedal with my knee, elbow, thighs... Kinda pricey piece though.

Not so bad if you consider that it is only about 10% of cost to get into a TIG rig to start. Then there is the sanity element. I tried the Yoga thing and quite honestly, I had a hard time controlling it while welding on 1/8" tube. There was no way I could pull off the out of position welds on sheet metal without it.

Owner of the TIG button is a real down to earth guy. The site didn't specifically have my Precision TIG unit listed as compatible. He offered to let me try it risk free. Worked great right out of the box. After trying it there was no way it was going to be returned. I don't even use my foot pedal anymore . . . even if I'm welding on the bench. It's that natural.

So I got around to splitting the case and the results aren't good. Did I mention I really dislike the way the previous owners treated this vehicle?

The source of the rust that was in the top of the oil filler has been found. I quickly put the oil filler & breather box aside when I was doing the initial teardown. I could see had some rust & oily gunk in there but I didn't dwell on it.

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If someone has one of these they would care to sell, there will be an ad going up in the classified section to replace this one. PM me if you have an extra you want to get rid of!

What I can't believe is how much more rusty garbage is down in the sump.

There is a staggering amount of rust and crap sitting on both sides of the case.

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I find it a little bit hard to believe that all of this came out of the breather box.

There are other indications that this engine was not rebuilt properly.

I found a metal shaving behind one of the cam bearings. luckily there was no way for this to get though the bearing oiling hole. But it does speak to the fact that the oil galleys probably were not cleaned properly before the rebuild.

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Of course the bearings are worn from all this garbage in the oil and the crank is lightly scored. Hopefully the crank can be cleaned up with either an aggressive polishing and/or maybe a 1st size under cut. I need to measure the journals today to see where they are at.

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And now let's move on to the truly egregious and incompetent stuff.

Front crank seal bore has witness marks in it from someone threading a fastener into it. Maybe they had no idea how to pull a crank seal?

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This case was literally covered in oil. It also tended to leak oil even when it wasn't running. As it sat on a dolly in my garage all winter, I kept wiping up weeping oil from under it. Eventually, I put a carboard box under it to catch the oil.

Now I know why. As far as I can tell there was little, if any sealant between the case halves!

Now keep in mind, someone plastered up the back side of the case with Epoxy / JB Weld type material over the cam plug and the oil galley plugs. After this find, I suspect they were trying to stop the oil leak that was actually coming from between the case halves from not having proper sealant on them.

There were also a number of other hits that the rebuilt was done on the cheap.

1) There were no vibration dampers on the six main bearing through bolts and/or any sealant under the washer heads to help bolt vibration and to help prevent leaks and weeping from these main case bolts. I'm always amused when a shade tree mechanic throws away parts. Surely they weren't serving any purpose and those stupid Germans were just putting extra parts in.

2) Numerous gaskets that looked like they were reused.

3) Lots of screwdriver marks on sealing surfaces where somebody was prying surfaces apart that shouldn't be touched by tools.

None of this appears to be un-fixable but it speaks to the horrors that you can find in an amateur engine rebuild by someone that clearly is just learning.

Gross! The curse of a great "beginner's engine." I should have you covered on an oil breather. I need to open it up to make sure there are no surprises inside. Should be clean though. I'll PM you later.

By the way,

This engine had at least enough oil pressure to turn off the idiot light. So no guarantee that a used running engine with oil pressure means that the engine is in OK shape.

Brent, if you have a breather that would be stellar!

Can’t catch a break. Both rod and main bearings are 0.010” undersized! Going to be looking for a new crank

I was hoping to have better news for you. Looks like this breather would clean up okay, but it's missing the cover for the PCV. It's yours if you want it, but you know me, I'd want one with all the right bits. I'll try to get out to the storage shed tomorrow. There is a small chance there is another breather of two hiding out there.

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That’s funny because mine doesn’t have a cover either and I can’t find a picture of it nor can I recall from my original car what it looked like.

I assume this is to prevent oil from splashing into the PCV and gumming the valve. You could probably find a plastic button to snap in and slit the sides to let it breath.

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I hate to even ask. What's the 3rd hole for? Maybe slightly different for 1.7L/1.8L?

Given the appearance of the button that would be pretty easy to fabricate out of Delron of something like that.

I just looked of AA and of course the cover button is NLA. I'll have to do some digging I wonder if 914 Rubber has it.

Definitely needs to be some sort of soft plastic given potential for it to drop into the case. Yikes!

Ha! Never noticed the third hole before. The breather on the right came out of a 1.7L. Don't know if that makes a differences though.

The hole under the PCV is just shy of 1 inch and I'll bet a 1 inch plastic hole plug would fit. Should be able to pick one up at the local auto parts store. Let me know if you want me to pop my extra one in the mail.

BTW, might not be clear in the pics, but the third hole on the breather is not a hole, just an indent stamp in the metal.

Great job on the build!

Really enjoying the thread so far.

Once you get to drive it, it will all be worthwhile.

Mine needed a little work when I got it, can you say flintstone car?

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But it all worked out eventually.

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John

Inspiration!

So nice to see others that have come back from the brink. I'm right in the middle which is the land of desperation where you start thinking why did I do this?

Only one way to go. Soldier on and finish it.

I find it helps not to:

(1) Add up how much longer it will take to be on the road.
(2) How much it has cost so far.
(3) How much more it will cost to finish.

Just tackle the project you have selected for the day and enjoy the satisfaction of crossing another thing off.

John

My stitches are all healed up and I'm looking forward to getting back to doing to what we do around here.

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I've been collecting up parts to put my engine back to stock 2.0L form with 94mm pistons and a stock crank and hopefully getting D-jet back on it instead of the carbs that it came with.

I know . . . . . the horror of it . . . . stock!

Today the mailman was really pissed. Pistons and Cylinders arrived and I think he might have broken a sweat carrying them up to the door. In his defense, they are heavier than a letter. More likely he's mad that he has to keep getting out of the truck with all the regular parts arrivals.

So happy to have found NOS P&C's with proper dish. You can see the PO simply put VW BUS deep dish pistons in on the last rebuild. 914 compression ratio is pretty low by modern standards. Those deep dish would have lowered it even further. I'm sure they were cheap though!

@914_7T3
Thanks for facilitating this transaction!

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Fed Ex man isn't doing much better because my "new" crank showed up today too! The crank that came out of my engine had already been ground 0.010" on both the journals and the mains so why take a chance with that one. This new one will go to machining for a very light polish and a quick magnaflux check. Initial measurement of the mains and journals shows it to be on the high side of stock tolerance which is AWESOME!


@KevinW
Thanks for providing a heat transplant for this engine.

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I've also picked up some stainless heat exchangers that will clean up nicely and have now been pressure tested to make sure there are no leaks in the actual heat changer that provides cabin air.

@jwinner
Thanks for making this an easy transaction!

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@914Sixer
I'm sorry that you're cleaning out your private stash . . . . well maybe not!

Pedal sled has been rebuilt. I honestly can't even recall who I got the donor from . . . regardless thanks! My original base sled is too heavily rusted to even think about using. This one cleaned up nicely!

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So many others have provided parts that would otherwise be an absolute pain in the to source off Evil Bay.

I've left off so many others that have sold me parts either recently or in the past months only because I can't immediately recall your user names to provide a shout out. I've not had a single bad transaction which is a huge advantage of this community. I honestly can't imagine how I'd pull this rebuild off without 914World.com

For those that might be on the fence, go ahead and make a donation to this site. Let's keep this afloat and thank SirAndy for doing this!

@SirAndy


Thanks to all of you guys!!

Great progress! Anyone know what the CR on those bus jugs were? Man that's gotta be low. Jeffrey is the man for brokering NOS deals. I need to post up what he did for me when I update my thread.

Keep the postman angry. Stock rocks!

Special thanks to both Brent and Kevin for donating free parts, you guys are awesome. I’m sure I’ll have a few extras floating around after I get this back on the road. I will be sure to pay it forward as you guys have kindly done for me. Cheers

My pleasure, we stock '73 2.0 guys need to stick together. Even if @bbrock is running a Carb set-up

I will take some time to catch up on your thread!

I did a little more "clean" work yesterday to take a look at my oil pump and sifting though FI parts.

As expected, oil pump is toast. With all that rust in the sump, it clearly has been pumping chunks! Now the real problem starts - trying to find a replacement oil pump.

Unlike when I built my last motor, type 4 pumps are now in short supply. I've reviewed a bunch of the threads on this site, and, I don't really like the options around using a type 1 pump.

Here's the trashed pump. The two issues are heavy scoring of the pump body and the pushing out of the stationary shaft that occurs as a result to having been overheated at some point (remember some damn previous owner pulled thermostat and cooling flaps )

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The camshaft I took out of the engine does show witness marks from the shaft contacting the cam gear bolt heads.

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This situation has me thinking about ways to rebuild a Type 4 pump. I'm sure it can be done but the problem is time and effort to do so. I'm sort of surprised no one has come up with a CNC aftermarket replacement since there are still a lot of Type 4's running around in 914's and VW busses.

I've resorted to rolling the Evil Bay dice. I bought a pump that looks great on the outside - but it very well could be money down the drain once I open it up.

If it were able to be used, I'll certainly modify it to pin the stationary shaft in place so that well known failure mode can't occur. In reality, I reused my oil pump when I rebuilt my original 73' 1.7L to a 2.0L and that pump went about 100K miles before that vehicle was totaled by a rear-ender. When I tore the engine back down, that oil pump was still solid. Wish I had kept it but it was sold at Hersey decades ago.

We'll see where this eBay path leads.


I've also been picking my way though D-Jet parts trying to ensure I have usable components. The injector points need a bit of help. I'll fix these with a bit of new copper braid and some solder.

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Why didn't you say so, I have an extra trigger plate that is lightly used. Picked it up as a spare, but then found a NOS one

Let me know if you want it and I can email you pics and we can work something out.

@914_7T3 You're the best. If I wrote down a list of everything I "need" you'd have to send me your car!

Points already fixed.

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If only everything were that simple.

I will be looking for an Ambient Temp Sensor (in photo) and posting it at some point on WTB classifieds. Just in case you happen to have one sitting around.

Finally got a call from the machine shop that was cleaning my case and seeing if they could polish out the crank that was already 0.010" undersize.

The case turned out nice but will still need lots of love. This engine had massive rust in the sump. All galley plugs will need to be pulled so that the ends of the galleys can be cleaned to ensure there isn't a nice little pile of rust at the dead end just waiting to come out inside a freshly rebuilt engine.

There will also be machine work to deck the piston seats lightly, and the oil pressure sensor hole is stripped and will need to be re-tapped.

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Now for the bad news. One cylinder is cracked at the boss for the valve guide. Likely a result of prior poor workmanship. I can see evidence of the valve guide having been replaced previously.

I'm undecided on next steps for this head. I hate to toss a 2.0L head. May weld it but that will be down the road since it will involve lots of work to weld it and then to re-machine the valve guide boss properly. I will probably bead blast it just to see if there are other cracks in the combustion chamber to help seal the deal.

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Ah . . . the joy of restoring 40+ year old cars.

The crank actually did polish out pretty well but I need to measure it for myself to see where it is at. However, there is a bit of rust pitting just below where the Cam gear sits. This surface doesn't get bearing wear but it is a defect that I couldn't see with the cam gear in place.

I ended up getting another used standard size crank that is in good condition from Kevin W that will go into this engine.

If anyone is in desperate need of a 2.0L crank 0.010" under on both the mains and the rods. I will send this one to you for the cost of shipping (~$45) based on what I paid to get mine from Kevin.

Otherwise, it is probably headed toward becoming a lamp, a door stop, or something like that.

Is the plan to put the guts of the engine you just picked up into this case? Is this one numbers matching? Just curious.

That is a question I pondered for 14 hours while driving to/from Wisconsin.

I started this project with the mindset of saving a scrap car and not feeling bad that I'd eventually like to put a six into it after running the stock 2.0 Type 4 for a year or two.

To answer the question would take a COA. I don't feel good about sending those fools money given other members experiences with them.

Likely out come will be I'll cherry pick the best parts from each (both are 73' engines) and build one prime engine for me.

The other engine (if truly low miles) may just get pistons cleaned, cylinders honed, and put back together with fresh bearings etc. as a basic runner for sale later set up with my Dell's to someone in need? That is a very optimistic scenario.

Worst case, I'll part out what's left.

Also as a point of note, KevinW donated a 017 CHT sensor to me before I bought engine GA000099.

I intend to fully document the resistance vs. temp behavior of both sensors for a sample size of two. I'll post the results since 017 CHT sensors seem to be a mystery. May be a bit before I get to this.

I have a few irons in the fire.

When done, I'll pay it forward by donating the extra sensor for cost of shipping to next user in need like Kevin did for me not knowing I'd end up buying another complete motor.

Tool Of The Day Post.

I've been working to get my original case ready for some machine work.

Needed to pull the cylinder head studs.

I love these stud installers & extractors from Snap-On.

I know this can be done by jamming nuts together and hoping for the best. I did that for a lot of years when I was broke.

These collet type extractors make the job a pleasure rather than a pain. No risk of galling threads. Work the first time, every time.


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Well it's been a while since I posted to this thread. Chassis work is on hold due to the Melanoma surgery stuff, but I'm still plugging away at the small stuff I can do without stressing my shoulder.

The engine that came out of this vehicle is GA004310. Whoever had this engine had a knack for screwing things up.
The flaps were removed from this car and the engine tin is sort of mangled on the passenger side tin at the corner where the flap rod passes through.

In anticipation of having tin sent out for media blast and power coat, I've been fixing tin cracks, stuck cheese head screws, and trying to straighten this tin back to original shape. Luckily I have decent tin from GA000099 to see what it should look like.

It's actually so bad, I'm sort of wondering if it was just a bad stamping. Otherwise, someone really worked to screw it up.

Here is the starting point.

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Just basic hammer and dolly work but the tight radius and the raised semi-circular formations are making it a tough slog. The photo below is getting closer but still needs a crack welded and some more shaping.

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Getting a little closer to the right shape but I think a few of these creases are going to get locked in as the material work hardens.


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It also appears that the rear tin had two extra holes drilled for some reason. Will need to fill these.

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Now in the process of comparing tin between the two engines I noticed the tin from GA000099 had the 621 and I.0. markings that Brent has so carefully reproduced.

However, I did note that the I.O. mark is in a different location. Hopefully this doesn't mean he has to start all over again.

@bbrock

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Ha! Jeff Bowlsby has two pics of the I.O. stamp on his site. Neither show it where yours or mine were located. Seems they allowed creative license on that one as long as it was in the general neighborhood. Let me know if you want to borrow the stamps, or just pass them along to the next person who needs them. I can't imagine how tragic it would be to be driving around in a car with an engine that wasn't certified "in order."

@bbrock

I think I just might take you up on that and continue the trend you've started.

I'm still a few weeks from having this tin stripped and powder coated. I had hopped to drop off a massive batch of tin before the holiday weekend but I still have several pieces with cracks to weld up, one that needs fab work to repair A/C damage, another that needs a fuel pressure regulator bracket fabricated and those rear tin holes to fill.

But when that is done, the tin could get stamped quickly and then continue to the tradition of passing the stamps along if anyone else is crazy enough!

More tin work in progress.

Tin on GA004310 was hacked up for dealer installed AC. Time to fix.

1st fabricated a new fuel pressure regulator bracket, the original had been cut off as part of the carb conversion and someone taking this engine apart and rebuilding with the deep dish bus pistons.

This piece bracket is made out of 0.057" and has a stamping dart in it for added stiffness. I was able to approximate the stamping dart with a small bench brake.

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Started fabrication work to address the missing sheet metal section that was cut out of the cylinder 3/4 side tin to accommodate the York compressor.

Here is the start of it.

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Will finish this up today.

Well, 9/17 was my final skin graft surgery so I'll use the downtime to post up some work that I was able to get accomplished prior.

Engine Tin repair was completed. I did use a little bit of silicon bronze TIG rod to help fill in low spots and/or minor porosity to help with quality of final powder coating.

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Mocked up to fan tin to determine where hole needed to be.

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and there you have it A/C butchery repaired. Would have been way easier to buy tin, but, it made more sense to fix this and not break up a full set.

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Not having enough to do with two 2.0L engines already torn down and and various stages of rebuild, I decided to pull the trigger on the 2.4L six that was floating around over on the Classifieds forum.

You know, cause I really need more to do. But at some point, I have always wanted a 914 with a six. 914/6 prices are in the Stratosphere so a conversion is my best bet to have a six in my lifetime.

The plan:
1) Tear this engine down
2) Figure out what I have
3) Try to recoup some cost by selling off the 1973.5 CIS components to a needy 911 owner
4) Cash flowing the rebuild over time as finances permit
5)Offset this engine cost by selling GA004310 (engine from my car) 1st after it has been rebuilt
6) Selling GA000099 after a year or two when I have this engine rebuilt and the funds for the conversion parts (Need a set of Ben's awesome SS heat exchangers and a nice SS muffler, a DIY oil tank kit, and other hoses, engine mounts, etc.) These costs stack up pretty quickly and will be done over time to ease negative cash flow.
7) Determine induction -- PMO carbs would be nice but I'm contemplating modern MegaSquirt based FI with PMO ITB. Has to have a ITB's or Carbs for that look and oh so sweet induction noise.
8) Question my sanity again!

I want to post up front that this engine was bought as a core, at core price with no assumption that this would be a running motor. Engine was purchased from a terrific guy with no warranty expressed or implied! Thank you for selling this to me.

@Rolinkhaus

Upon arrival in my garage and finally up on the engine stand after a long drive, and lots of mid-west style sweating.

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Also right up front I want to reinforce with you guys buying cars and then having overheating problems. Don't assume that the mice haven't set up home while your car and/or engine was in storage.

Here is the standard oil gunk, pollen or cottonwood fluff crap that clogs up oil coolers plus some deposits from Mickey Mouse.

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Nice work.

As I mentioned over in the buid thread for GA000099 I absolutely love tearing down old engines.

It is sort of like Christmas. You never know what is in the box. Sometimes its good, sometimes, it's sheer terror.

I purchased it in part because it is a 1973.5 7R motor. My car is a 73'. Seems like a good match to me.

Case shows signs of having been disassembled before as witnessed by RTV sealing the case and timing chain covers + heavily loaded in around the oil return tubes. I'm really hoping that someone didn't cut the cylinder spigots. Cylinders are cast iron so I have high hopes they are 2.4L originals.

Early plan of action:
1) Do leakdown just to see if I got lucky.
2) Teardown completely and assess what I have.

This engine purchase was a bit of a risk due to it being a 1973.5 2.4L and that only being a 1/2 year engine with CIS. The heads are different, CIS parts for 1973.5 are hard to find because, well you know Porsche. They were so hot to do CIS in 1973.5 that they turned around and changed a bunch of stuff for 1974! Hopefully some of this works to my advantage in trying to unload the CIS as a cost offset.



Another risk is that the air box has a ton of dirt in it. This could be debris from storage, engine shipping to Rolinkhaus, or it could be somebody was doing a track day and ingested this crap during an off course shunt.

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When I pulled the CIS boot, at least the throttle body and the CIS valve look to be clean. Not a guarantee a bunch of dirt / dust didn't come through though.

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Opening up the rocker boxes to get a look at the valve gear, cams, and to be able to see them in preparation for leakdown checks.

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Not pristine but engine was supposedly 90K so not outlandish either.

Between the fact that the CIS internals and the fact that the side of the rocker boxes exposed air aren't covered in dust matching the air box, I'm going to say the airbox dirt probably came during shipping or storage.

After pulling all rocker covers, I did a leakdown.

Not so encouraging. Bank 1-3 is 16% to 30%. Definitely rebuild time.

Bank 4-6 is more concerning. Basically, complete blow though with 70-90% leakage. Leaking into the case partially and hard out the exhaust valves. No compression feel when air is applied via the leak down gauge and starting before TDC and cycling up though and past TDC. Nothing . . . Nada.

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There is a lot going on in my head at this point. This is the sheer terror part!

Valves seem to have clearance to rockers on the compression stroke so we really shouldn't have this much valve leakage. Might be burned valves.

I did pop a borescope into a couple of the cylinders before I purchased and didn't see any holes or valve heads in there and the engine turns freely. likewise, I can see all valve heads are attached. Whew!

I may go back and back off the exhaust valve adjusters just to be sure but honestly, it doesn't matter since a complete tear down is going to occur.

Next order of business is to get the shroud pulled.

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Easier said than done. CIS had to come off which is easy enough but the CIS injectors proved to be a challenge.

I've read all the Pelican forums about how hard these are to pull. I honestly can't imagine trying to do this in car.

I ended up using a slide hammer. I made an adapter to thread onto the CIS injector body and then to get a nice hard straight line pull out. They still didn't come easy.

Removal of the shroud came with a few unpleasant surprises. Like all machinery of this age, it has been abused at some point in it's life.

This one appears to be no exception.

I found the fan housing to be cracked and a slight chip out of the backside of one of the fan blades. Most likely from an inept mechanic trying to wedge a screwdriver or pry bar between the fan and the housing to loosen the fan belt nut rather than using the proper holding tool.

You would think Porsche 911's might get a touch better attention than the 914's. . . but nope! Not if you happened to be in Iowa in 1974 and needed a fan belt replaced. Sorry - not trying to pick on Iowa . . . . just an analogy. Could have happened as easily in Detroit back in the day!

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I've got to say, I'm continually confounded by American mechanics that never seemed to really grasp things like Magnesium.

1) It isn't as strong as cast iron and deserves a little more respect.
2) The legend that it can't be welded without starting on fire.

I also found this cracking on the case. The case is the desirable 7R case and is the bulk of the reason I chose to purchase this core.

I think this is just casting shrink at the casting gate where molten metal flows into the mold. The gate intentionally provides a place for metal to shrink from when the casting cools.

The fact that there is no oil residue here likely means this doesn't penetrate the case. We'll see when I get the case split. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it is indeed gate shrinkage. Or worst case, it is repairable by Otto's or the like.

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So finally after much cursing and a little more disassembly, I finally got it down to a long block.

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This is the current state of affairs.

Once I'm past this 2nd day of post surgery pain, I'll get back out into the garage and start working toward a complete teardown and determination of what's going on over on the bank 4-6 side of the engine.

Your sanity was never in question. It's 5am and you are posting on this forum Then again, it is 4am here and I'm reading...

Your project(s) escalated quickly from insisting on dished 94mm pistons for your 4. Looking good!

@Bbrock

Pain from surgery not allowing me to sleep. What's your excuse? Burning the 4am oil and getting an early start on the 914 today I hope. I hope you can get your paint work done before snow flies and/or that you can move indoors with a temp paint booth arrangement.

Yeah. I was just going to post on that topic of the NOS parts.

@914_7T3

Jeffrey sure went out of his way and to extraordinary measures to hook me up on those 94mm KS NOS pistons, cylinders and NOS cam.

I had a long phone conversation with him about what is the right thing to do. I wanted to make sure that he is 100% on-board with the plan before I do anything.

So I think what is going to happen is:

1) I'll reassemble GA000099 with existing 94mm low dish P&C's which are in good shape and came out of this engine. I'll likely, use the original un-cracked Porsche 2.0L heads (after rebuilding those). Regrind the slightly worn stock cam that came out of this engine and put on stock FI. That gets me a stock NOS 2.0L for use until the six conversion can happen. This keeps an interesting low serial number GA engine NOS. I'll drive this until I can fund the 2.4L engine rebuild and conversion.

2) I'll rebuild GA004310 with the 2.0L AAP heads prepped by HAM, and 96 mm P&C's. I think it will be easier to unload a 2056 with HAM heads as a cost offset for this 2.4L 911 engine. The catch will be if I can actually make any money for my rebuild time and effort. Doubt it. I at least need to recoup the costs. I've thought of selling off the new unused HAM heads, the case, 2.0L tin, crank, etc. as parts but I suspect there will eventually be someone that needs a properly rebuilt 2.0L that doesn't have the means or time to DIY. Might be a long wait though vs. just parting out. Plus, selling parts piecemeal is a pain for me with all the postings and subsequent shipping time, etc. Or, list as a lot price for engine core parts? Undecided.

3) The KS 94mm pistons, cylinders and cam stay NOS and unused. It would be a shame to put into an engine just to drive it a year and then sell to someone that doesn't fully appreciate a stock 2.0L. Parts get put on the shelf for the next guy that wants to build up a 2.0L engine with 94mm NOS parts and really values that.

Open to better options but this is what Jeffrey and I came up with.

"Your project(s) escalated quickly........................................."

and it's more like your insanity was never in question

NEVER, EVER bead blast anything that passes air, fuel or oil in your motors ... especially anything that has little nooks & crannies where the beads can get stuck. It only takes a few of those little marbles to destroy a motor in short order. Soda blast them

Even when rinsing the parts in an ultrasound tank, you may not dislodge all the beads. They'll eventually come loose while you're driving 90 mph on the turnpike

That's why I'm building a new soda blasting cabinet ... I have numerous parts including carburetors that I need to clean up.

In the case of heads, All valves, guides, etc. come out. No where for the bead to get stuck. Agree completely if the heads were not to be fully disassembled.

Whenever I've done a case, it is exterior only and all oil galleys get sealed off and ultimately galley plugs will get pulled anyway to ensure no other 40 year old debris resides within the galley.

Agree soda is a better choice but let's be honest, walnut shells and bead have been a mainstay for years before anyone came up with soda blasting. Even better yet is Dry Ice blasting which leaves absolutely no residue. I'm still waiting for someone to come up with an affordable dry ice blaster though.

It all comes down to diligence in getting things totally clean inside and out before assembly. That is true for any engine rebuild be it a lawn mower or a high end race engine. If I can't eat off of it, it isn't clean enough.

Have to agree with you on that. Had I been sane, I would have started with a beautiful rust free CA car. I'd be driving by now.

Even some folks who have rust-free cars still don't have them on the road after more than 10 years.

Ask me how I know

OK - Feeling better and getting back at it.

1st order of business was to get the right side cylinder bank heads off to see what happened. The curiosity was killing me.

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When the cylinder heads finally came off the problem is obvious. Mr Piston met Mr Valve.

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In addition cylinders 4,5, and 6 are trashed. Multiple causes here. Storage and corrosion are one issue but there is evidence in cylinder #4 that the cylinder is pretty torn up probably from deformation and side load of the piston when it met the valve.

Hopefully rods are OK but we'll figure that out later when I finally split the case.

On the head side, at least all the valves are intact but they are surely bent based on the leakdown test and the air escaping via the exhaust valves. Not a big deal, valves would be replaced anyway. Will have to wait to later to get a good look at the valve guides and particularly the casting around the valve guide.

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Well, at least now I know what happened.

Doesn't appear to be catastrophic at this point but I certainly will need to do so measuring on the granite surface plate to see if the rods are bent.

Now here's the real mystery.

I'm a bit embarrassed to post the carnage to the CIS injector cups but I'm here to share the good, the bad, the ugly so you can learn from my own impatience with trying to get a cup out. This was literally a 1/2 model year solution by Porsche for 1973.5. For 74' the CIS injectors were moved up into the intake runners and have a proper insert in the runner to both insulate it from heat, and to seal it. The 74' CIS injector insert is serviceable. Imagine that. 1973.5 maybe not so much.

In the process of pulling the CIS injectors the rubber seals were so hard, I couldn't get the injectors out even when I heated them gently to "operating temperature" to try to soften the rubber. I'm sort of wondering what other trick might have been tried to soften the seals enough to allow the CIS injector to pass out without blowing out the thin wall cup perimeter. After the fact, I thought of maybe a solvent to soften the rubber. Too late!

As the CIS injectors came out, they trashed a couple of the CIS injector cups. Not really a concern since I'll end up either running carbs or more likely ITB's and modern FI via MegaSquirt. These cups need to go and get the holes tapped for plugs if they are not already tapped.

Before I bought the engine I did some research and thought the cups were threaded into the early 73' MFI threads. It is looking like that is not the case. Information on how to remove them is pretty much non existent. I did find one instance where someone converted to carbs and just make "plugs" to fit into the seals and cups were the CIS injectors were previously. That would work, but I'm to OCD for that. The cups need to go bye bye.

A post over on the bird came up with one fellow that indicates the CIS cups are press or shrink fit. They don't appar to be designed to be serviceable. I couldn't find them in the PET parts guide. Strangely, the crude ISO view seemed to show one on the head assembly but no separate part available. Not a good sign that they were ever intended to be serviceable.

Worst case I'll machine them out in the mill.


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Given that I now have three engines in pieces, keeping the balls in the air is getting tricky.

All the tin from the two 2.0L engines (GA004310 & GA000099) was dropped today for sandblasting and powder coat. One set will be done in black, one in red for my project.

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There are three fan shrouds because back when I needed flaps, I purchased a complete shroud off e-bay just to get the flaps.

All fan shrouds will be done in silver. Don't worry, I'll clean off the powder coating at the attachment points to make sure I have a good ground between the shroud and the case.

The extra shroud will go up on classifieds forum in a couple weeks when it's complete.