I've never touched a real Porsche engine so am learning here. Hard to believe those injector cups came from German engineers. What was the purpose of mounting them in the heads vs intake runners? Better spray pattern?

Porsche made so many changes on their engines from year to year. Some were good, some not so good. We have about a thousand heads on the shelf and it's often hard to match up 6 since they made so many changes and had different port sizes and injectors for carbs, MFI, CIS, T,E S, Turbo, 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.7, 3.0, 3.3, etc.

After much sweating and maybe a little swearing here is the weekend scoreboard.

Headstuds: 23 of 24 removed without lifting out the magnesium threads. There is always that one that refuses to go along with rest.

P&C's
Yup, the 1,2,3 bank pistons also kissed the heads. I guess that makes a perfect score of all 6. At least we have consistency.

Crankshaft:
Visually looks good. only the lightest of scoring that can't be felt with a fingernail. Standard bearings in place.

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Case:
With respect to the previously mentioned casting gate, the shrink is over the main webs, in a very thick section, and is indeed casting shrinkage. No chance of perforation of the case.

Initial visual upon 1st splitting the case was great.

But, then I got to bearing #7. Not good. Something went very bad. Either casting porosity, corrosion, or major fretting. I don't see any fretting on the other bearing web's. Likewise this is the only place inside the case that looks like this. I'm going to rule out corrosion as I can't see how it would be localized to just one web. That leaves casting porosity as the likely suspect.

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I had planned on this being a core engine and needing machine work. Sent pictures to Ollie's today and they think all can be made well in exchange for $$. Likely to be on the order of $2600 to include potential welding, machining, line bore, adding case savers, oil bypass modification, extraction and repair of a couple transmission studs, etc. Life if good if you're Ollie! 10-12 week lead time to even get to it. Good thing I have at least a year!

Overall not a bad weekend! Beats being at work but I had to go back today to pay for this endeavor.

Just saying...

@Mepstein

You had me tempted but I'm not a chase the HP kind of guy. I will actually have more fun driving this car as a 2.0L Type 4 for a year or so and then go to the 2.4L when parts and funds permit.

I personally think 2.4L is the sweet spot for a six and the 2.0L for the type 4. I also wanted to keep a period correct engine. 1973.5 2.4L could have just as easily been installed by Porsche had they not been afraid the 914 would outperform their beloved 911.

7R case not highly stressed. 140-160 HP is just right for the type 901 trans to avoid having to baby it, or update to a 915.

Keeps a nice balance of HP vs. handling with an emphasis on handling.

@bbrock

I think it was part of the learning and evolution. Evolution from Carbs to MFI was great for HP but costly. CIS was next logical step to bring down cost without hurting HP and CIS probably had an emissions advantage in an era where emissions controls was ramping up.

MFI was always in the heads. I think when they did the 1973.5 CIS they didn't have time to get the 74' intake runners tooled up for production so they put the CIS injectors in the heads for expediency. This caused issues with vapor lock and carbon deposits on the CIS injectors similar to what happens on the back side of an intake valve.

Moving the injectors to the intake runners yields better atomization, less carbon, and less vapor lock potential.

Given that I could see the need to quickly migrate from MFI to CIS I assumed they would just make an injector cup / adapter that threaded into the MFI ports. Silly me.

What did amaze me though was just how thin the aluminum cup is. It literally cracked when the rubber injector seal wouldn't yield from rubber hardening. another 0.020" of wall thickness would make these very robust. No idea why they made them so thin.

We all like to think Porsche was pretty smart but given the issues I've seen now with the GA000099 casting (early 73') and this 1973.5 911 case, I think quality control was . . . ahem . . . lacking in that era. Too much dope smoking is what I'm going to pin it on!

I don't have much memory of 1973 other than moving from Massachusetts to Michigan. I was only 6. However I vividly recall 1975-1976 and there was plenty of dope smokin' going on around me with friends older brothers and what not!

Wow, that sucks.weird porosity down in oil hole too ?? Here is my oh-shit, numbers matching -6 case , spun main bearing.....

Yeah porosity appears to be in the oil hole too. Someone not paying attention in the foundry and/or Porsche was willing to accept it. Hard to tell which was the case.

The good news for both of us it can be fixed with Welding, machining and line bore. Like mine the bad news is the cost to do so.

There is very little that can’t be fixed. The issue is always cost and timing.

Seems like it would be worth the cost to keep matching numbers on a -6.

We are seeing this often on 2.7’s

Apparently 1974 casting process was getting getting better with time.

Honestly there will always be some porosity in castings. In my case it seems a bit excessive but honestly it isn’t a show stopper at 140hp which isn’t going to flex or fret the case as much as a 2.8L RSR !

I’m just OCD and want it to be the best I can manage within my budget.

Also know that there is considered "acceptable" levels of porosity with magnesium and welding per all FAA repair manuals which is considered the holy grail of weld repair of magnesium

@mb911



You are correct for sure.

The porosity in the saddle is less concerning to me since that has a large surface area that the bearing load is shared over.

The main thing I don't like is how the end of the shell bearing is left unsupported right there at the case split line.

The case will need case savers, the oil bypass modification, and a few broken studs on the transmission end that will need to be repaired anyway so it wasn't as if I was expecting a pristine case. I'll measure case main bearing bores to see if they are oval. If they are still circular then it will be a much tougher call on the welding, case machining, and subsequent line bore that creates its own set of compromises.

I would have expected that certain areas of the case would be deemed critical and would be under higher quality control. Just seems odd that they would accept that defect that leaves a portion of the bearing unsupported albeit only slightly.

Inspiring thread, lots of knowledge and know how! Always encouraging to see people diving in to even more challenging project than your own

Continued tear down of the case has finally resulted in a "basket case" engine. No more big parts sitting around. Everything now fits in bins! It's nice to have my limited floor space back.

I got the crank torn down. Still need to measure all the journals. Overall, the bearings are showing wear consistent to a high mileage core. It was purchased with the understanding that it probably had 90K on it. I'd say that is probably accurate based on bearing wear.

Crank and crank bearings
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Rod bearings
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IMS bearings.
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Next step is to get the bulk of the oil residue cleaned up off the case internals and to get it ready for shipping to Ollies.

You ever thought about picking up another case? I have a few just a few hours south. PM me if you want to talk it over.

Looks like that case has been 'fretting" on the bearing saddles,that shows in the main bearing wear,lots of excess point loading due to the case being out of round.
Best to replace the case as the work to fix what you have isn't a good $$$ solution,go for a case half machining and a linebore to resize to std main bearings,you appear to have the skills to do the rest yourself.
Good luck.

Spent some time wrestling with parts.

I finally got time to get the fan, alternator, and the fan housing separated.

1) Non OEM alternator - when I pulled the fan shroud, I found a SEV Marchal alternator tag sitting on top of the engine. I had hoped as a long shot that maybe the engine would still have the original alternator. No such luck. Generic rebuild.

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2) I wanted to get a better look at the fan housing cracking. A bit worse than hoped. If anyone has a spare 901.106.101.5R housing sitting around in good shape PM me. Otherwise, this one will likely go to Ben for welding and I'll have to do machine work to clean it back up.

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3) Someone savaged the fan hub. It is still useable but it looks like someone went after it with a cut off wheel - probably to clean up botched workmanship when the alternator was replaced. Damn Hacks!

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My bet is that some shade tree / low end mechanic is responsible for all this.

One blade of the fan has a small chip out of it. Probably from wedging a tool between the fan and the housing to try to loosen the pulley nut rather than using the proper tool.

That likely lead to the cracked fan housing which then propagated over time.

45 year old parts!

Also had more fun than a barrel of monkeys trying to pull broken, damaged and corroded exhaust studs.

So far I'm 7 for 12 but wasted a ton of time trying to get the last 5. I started soaking with penetrating oils 2 weeks ago. All my usual tricks seem to have failed me on the last 5. Ollies charges $22 drill them out,so at this point, it seems more cost effective to just pay the $110 to get them drilled rather than to keep wasting my time. Heck, it would take me longer just to set them up in my mill than the $110 of time is worth. I'm sure Ollies has a nice jig that makes quick work of them. Heads need full rebuild anyway due to bent valves, and valve guides that are worn.

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Thought it might be great opportunity to buy another cool tool from Stomski Racing, but, the cost of the tool is more than the cost to have it done by Ollies. Plus Stromski the drill jig counts on having at least one good stud to secure the tool to drill the other. Cool tool though but it is pricey. Would be worth it though if you had to do this under the car. No new tool for me!

https://www.stomskiracing.com/products/exha...stud-repair-kit

@porschetub

Agree that there is some fretting of the bearings there but that really shouldn't be surprising on a high mileage (90K) case.

Problem is I REALLY want the 1973.5 7R case because it matches the vintage of my car. Machining the cases and a line bore back to standard is pretty much a given for these old Mag cases so I'll just roll with the punches and get it fixed properly.

Hope to get the case boxed up and ready to ship today.

Those @#$% exhaust studs. About a third of my head rebuild bill was for extracting and replacing studs and busted engine tin screws. And that was for a /4

Bummer about no new tool. You'll just have to keep playing with the old one.

We have the entire catalog of Stompski tools. Great stuff. We use the stud tool but most of the time just leave them in and the machine shop removes them while rebuilding the heads.

Well each day it seems I have a couple of wins and couple of losses.

Let's cover the win 1st.

I finally got the funky 1973.5 2.4L CIS injector cups out of the heads. Turns out they are indeed a press fit.

I created a tool from some scrap material that let me pull them with a slide hammer and some gentle heating of the head.

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Here are the dimensions of the tool that worked for me just in case it can help someone else down the road.

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Head without the CIS injector cups. Now I need to start making plans to plug them!

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Now for the loss of the day.

In the process of pulling the case studs in preparation for shipment to Ollies the upper engine mount boss cracked. I'll spare you the profanity that was uttered.

In taking a look at the broken off piece as well as the boss itself, I can see the boss had been cracked for some time. I just manged to finish the job. Magnesium is such a fickle material. The lightweight nature of it is awesome. The fact that it is prone to stress cracking over time . . . well, I guess you have to take the good with the bad.

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On the broken piece, notice the nice fresh white magnesium that cracked on the right side. Now look at the left. Dark and corroded.

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This was a pre-existing stress crack that had been propagating over time. It might be a good thing that it broke now, but, it sure doesn't feel that way. If it had broken after the case machining, I'd be absolutely screwed.

The way you can tell it was pre-existing is if you look closely at the dark section, you'll notice a characteristic "beach heading" sort of like the way water creates wavy patterns in the sand at the beach. This is a form of gradual crack propagation. Sort of a gradual erosion pattern over time. Then look at the white section. It's uniform, rough, and granular, sort of like a sugar cube surface. This is characteristic of the instant yield crack that coincided with the "snap" when it broke.

Usually I'm looking at these types of failure on parts at work. It hurts more to see it when my wallet is affected.

So off it goes to Ollies, they should be able to weld up the boss, building it back out and then doing a drill, tap, and facing on the boss. What a bummer. I've seen worse repaired. Luckily it will be buried under tin and between the engine and the firewall so I won't have to look at it.

The case got double boxed up, and it should go off for a final inspection and formal quotation request at some point this coming week. We'll see.

Goodies arrived in the mail this week:

Ben fixed my cracked fan shroud for a mere fraction of what I was looking at to replace it with another used part. Welding mag just isn't on my bag of tricks.

Ben did a great job of not only welding the mag shroud, but he also clearanced the weld to allow the alternator to fit. I had assumed I'd have to take car of that myself. Thanks Ben!

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Now before anyone gets their panties in a wad about the size of the weld bead, keep in mind that none of this is easily visible with the fan installed.

I would much rather have the strength and extra material from the bead than trying to blend this back purely for cosmetic purposes. Even more so knowing that when this is actually installed in a 914 with the fan facing toward the rear bulkhead you can't see anything.

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The fan spins perfectly with no contact to the welded shroud. No deformation of significance. Great job Ben!


To top that off, I purchased Ben's DIY oil tank kits. Looking forward to putting this little puzzle together! I did a quick bench top mock-up and the pieces are all nicely bent and look like they will fit up well with minimal tweaking.

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Hat's off to Ben!

Glad your happy with it.. The mag welding is always fun.. Porosity is nature of the beast..

I now have to decide on another run of oil tanks or not.

I’ll take mine welded. Thanks Ben.

Excellent to see the fan housing repaired..many over on Pelican say it can't be done Ben has the skills,one thing I noticed with my housing was the importance of torqueing the mounting strap to spec,my fan had contact because I had done it up to tight,done up correctly the problem was sorted.
911 exhaust studs are bastard things ...1 third of mine were ok,the rest were too rusted @ the threads to reuse,heated and chilled them a few times and most came out,the rest I double nutted and welded the lower nut on,I let them cool and they came out.
I went for genuine replacement studs from Pelican and because I had heard conventional nuts loosen after a while I purchased a BMW 8mm "crush" exhaust nuts,they haven't required a retorque yet with my headers.
Good luck with your build.

Ben’s been repairing fans and housing for years. He’s also done a 3.2 manifold and a 915 trans case for me. His welding credentials go way beyond small repairs but it’s nice to have his services available. Just wish he was closer so he could weld on my car.

I couldn't be happier with Ben's work.

I'm still amazed at how many folks on forums will say that Magnesium can't be welded. I wish I had a proper welding shop, I'd give it a try buy there is just too much clutter in my garage should things go wrong.

I'll be taking next week off so I hope to get back to some welding on my chassis now that I'm pretty well healed up.

I also plan to go up to my father's house and retrieve a coupld of donor 901 transmissions that I stashed there about 20 years ago. They were stored off the ground, under a lean to, and with a vented tarp cover. Not sure anyting in them will be salvageable after 20 years but we'll see.

Did a little measuring and it turns out that the bore used for the 911 engine 2.4L CIS injector cups are about 0.020" oversize to the standard drill that would be used for a 3/8 NPT tap.

This should be OK. Since a NPT thread form is a taper the oversize hole will result in two things:
1) the tapped thread will have slightly less than the standard thread engagement within the thread form.
2) the plug having to sit just a little deeper in the taperd thread to estalish a full seal.

So I went ahead a trial tapped one of the heads for a 3/8 NPT plug.

I'll go ahead and pick up a few Earls Aluminum NPT plugs and will make sure it fits and seals well before I do the others.


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I also did a little machine work on the GA004310 case that came with this car.

The first job was to drill out and Heli-Coil one of the M6 cheeseheads that was seized. This was straightforwad and drama free. Love when that happens.

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The other job is a bit of a head scratcher.

When I got this engine running it was leaking oil pretty badly from the oil pressure sensor. Somewhere in it's life, someone swapped the OEM pressure sensor and managed to strip it. Their hope was that lots of PTFE tape was going to seal it and that just wasn't the way it works. This car and this engine had such a rough life -- it is almost laughable if it weren't so sad.

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I had hoped that there would be enough material there to run the 1/8" NPT tap in a bit deeper and get enough thread to get a decent seal. As it turns out, that isn't going to happen either.

Although I was able to reestablish some thread, the tapped bottomed within the bore before I was able to create much new thread.

So now I think I have only two options

1) Weld the hole, drill, and retap. I don't see a good way to weld up this bore, it is pretty deep and I don't want to put a ton of heat into the area and end up having to remachine the oil cooler ports or something stupid.

2) Cut the bore oversize to 1/2", create a shrink fit aluminum plug, weld that around the top to ensure a leak free seal, then drill and tap a new NPT bore. I'm leaning toward this option.

Need to think about this overnight and see if I come up with a better plan before chips begin to fly tomorrow.

Anyone else ever repaired this oil pressure sensor thread area? How did you do it?

This may not be a fix that meets your standard, but why not drill and thread for 1/4 NPT and put in a 1/4 x 1/8 adapter?

@Gereed75

This is a really good suggestion. It speaks to why I felt the need to sleep on it before making chips. I need to do some closer measurement but I"m concerened about 3 things:

1) In side view of this area, there isn't a whole lot of meat there for anything other than a 1/8" NPT thread bore (see photo below of 1/4" adapter on top). The size of a 1/4" NPT is large enough that it is going to be a close call on thinning out the material too much. This also seriously limits how big I can make an aluminum plug.

In the case of a 1/8" NPT tap, the top of the taper is about 0.403" (major diameter). If I make a 1/2" plug, that only leaves 0.097" of diameter and 0.0485" (just over 1mm) of wall thickness (worst case @ full tap depth which won't happen) once I re-tap the machined the welded in plug. That really isn't much wall thickness after re-tapping. I wouldn't worry about it in steel but obviously we're dealing with aluminum here. Might not be so bad since I would never go full depth on the NPT tap.

Here is a quick sketch (Not to Scale) of what's being considered for an aluminum plug.

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2) the added height of a 1/4" to 1/8" NPT addapter won't fit under the engine tin nicely. Likewise, it could be difficult to service later on with the tin installed. All my tin is out to powder coat - so I don't have tin to check this.

3) In general, the threaded in 1/4" to 1/8" adapter adds another potential leak path.

Here's the situation from the side view.

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I've also considering 1/8" NPT Heli-coils or Time-Sert now that I've thought about this a bit more after a good nights sleep.

The main issue is that the NPT Heli-coil uses a 3/8" drill. A 3/8 drill is already a loose fit to this hole. Having an oversize hole on a Heli-coil bore seems like a near certain leak path.

The other issue is a 1/8" NPT Heli-coil kit runs from $80-100. I don't see myself ever needing to use it again in my lifetime so it becomes a pretty large cost for a one use solution, that might still end up leaking.

A 1/8" NPT Time-Sert looks more appealing since the drill size is 13/32 (0.406") and this will be just barely large enough to clear out the stripped threads. I trust a Time-Sert to seal better than a Heli-coil if installed with some Loctite. About the same cost as the Heli-coil kit. Hmm.

I pulled the trigger on fabrication of a ferrule to fix the stripped pressure sensor port. It just seemed like the right thing to do. It will be a solid fix that won't leak and there is no extra cost for one time use Time-Sert's (just my time), and there is no need to wait for Time-Serts to arrive. I wanted to keep this machine work moving forward.

After some measurement and a bit of a rethink on the dimensions I decided to only cut the lower bore to 7/16". The upper counterbore is 5/8". The upper 5/8" segment is 0.375" in length and the lower 7/16 segment is 0.25" in length. The bore in the case was cut on-size and the ferrule was built 0.002" oversize for a shink fit.

Here's a little video of the work to find the center line of the pressure port bore.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtXTVeNxI7w


Reamed the lower bore for a nice smooth finish.

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Then the 5/8" counterbore was cut 0.25" deep.

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Then it was time to make the ferrule.

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Put the ferrule in the freezer for about 1/2 hour, then heated the case with a rosebud oxy-acetylene torch and then tapped the ferrule home.

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You'll notice I made the ferrule so that it stands proud of the surface by about 1/8" to give me something to weld to. It also gives me more material for the taper. The OEM Oil pressure sensor only theads in about 1/4" so having a 3/8" long section that is 5/8" diameter will give me plenty of material to tap into without thining the wall of the 7/16" diameter lower section. Once I have the port tapped to 1/8" NPT, I'll surface the top of the ferrule again for a nice flat surface.

And for good measure I welded the top

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Drilled, tapped to 1/8" NPT and milled the top once things cooled back to room temperature.

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And finally, this critical machining project is finished.

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Sorry to be jumping back and forth between the Type 4 GA004310 build and the teardown work for the 2.4L 911 engine but unfortunately this is the way I'm having to work at the moment.

Needed to get the 911 heads torn down and off my bench to free up space and to get them ready to be shipped to Ollies.

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During the tear down I thought I find nearly all the valves to be bent based on the witness marks in the pistons. As it turns out only the #6 cylinder exhaust valve is bent to the point that it can easily be seen visually.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_P2JQpI5S8


Curiously, the #6 intake valve retainer was also cracked.

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All the other exhaust valves had some pretty excessive carbon and light corrosion around the seat area but didn't seem to be terribly torn up to account for why I was getting such high leakdown off the exhuast valves.

I may chuck up the #4, and #5 valves today out of curiosity and put a dial indicator on them. However, it is a moot point. Since #6 is clearly bent, I'll reaplace all valves, springs, retainers, and keepers.

At this point I'm still not exactly sure what happened to this engine but I'm going to lean towards it having been over rev'd to the point that valves kissed pistons and cracked the #6 intake valve retainer.

Looks like the 3/8" NPT plugs are going to be a workable solution for plugging the CIS injector ports.

Might need to think about making plugs later that can completely fill the old CIS bore so that I don't have a flow interruption where the old CIS port merges with the intake port but at this point, I think that is over-thinking it.

I can make custom port plugs later on if it becomes necessary to improve airflow and/or to keep fuel better atomized. The only real way to answer that is on a flow bench.

I suspect it isn't much of an issue given that the orginal 2.4L MFI 911E made 160HP with a similar flow interruption in the intake port area. The 911S was good for 190HP but did have larger valves and larger intake ports but the MFI still would have had an interruption in the intake port for the MFI injectors.

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That is realy nice work! With the right machinery things become much easier...

Indeed. However, believe it or not, I didn't have to do any machine work on the CIS injector ports. The CIS hole was very close (slightly oversize) to the size needed for a 3/8 NPT tap. I just got lucky on that one!

For anyone that thinks you need all the fancy tools, I can tell you I did my 1st car's restoration with not much more than a basic socket set, a pair of vice grips, a couple of adjustable wrenches, and a ball peen hammer.

I only bought an air compressor right before I did the paint work and at that point in my life, the compressor amounted to 1/2 month of pay!

I also distinctly remember deciding about 30 years ago at that point in time that I had to find a better paying career that would allow me to play with cars full time and would afford me the opportunity to have nicer tools. I eventually became an automotive engineer. I'd say it all worked OK.

Given that I've had the sickness for about 30 years why stop now. I've been on vacation this week and mostly trying to catch up on neglected errands, and spending time with family.

Yesterday while visiting my father, I decided to retrieve a couple of transmissions that I've had in storage with him for about the last 24 years.

Total on hand - 4

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One that came with this car, one came with engine GA000099, and now these two on hand. 3 are side shifters and somehow I have a tailshifter even though I've always had 73's. I must have bought it ages ago for parts

I should now have plenty of donor parts to put together at least one really solid transmission. Won't know until I get inside them though.

@Dr Evil

A while back I purchased a Dr. Evil trans rebuild DVD to get a different perspective on how to properly rebuild these even though I've done a couple in the pre-internet era. Highly entertaining DVD's. Every now and again there is a comment in there that he just slips in that is hilarious. The best part might have been the labeling on the disks.

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2.4L case, rods, and heads are now off to Ollies. Now its just a waiting game until they can do the work and wait for the bill.

Looking forward to the holiday weekend to get some quality garage time in. Neck is healed, pinched nerve is finally under control courtesy of Advil. Should be able to do some chassis work this coming long weekend.

In anticipation of that, I've just been continuing to gather parts. 5 lug conversion plan is starting to come together courtesy of Garold and Larmo!

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The negative cash flow from the 914 is bad enough but I've also come to realize a new problem.

With the 914 tying up the garage, I don't have anywhere to work on the rest of the fleet. The choice is either work on them out in the open or pay someone else to do the dirty work.

My Jeep has penchant for developing dragging front calipers that need to be replaced every 4 years or so. With winter coming it was time to get that taken care of so I have a snow vehicle. Simultaneously, while commuting to work last week, the Mazda MPV parts hauler decided to spit out the #1 spark plug. I purchased the MPV used last fall for dirt cheap. It served me well so far by picking up two engines and hauling parts to/from storage, but, apparently somewhere in it's past, someone stripped the spark plug threads and it finally let loose.

My wife now realizes just how much my labor is worth. $1000 bill to repair the two of them in the same week! That sucks! I really hate paying others to do what I can for myself! Next time, I may just have to do it in the driveway!

Really impressed with your machine skills I have that but no gear to do it on ,up until recently I had use of a mill and lathe ,when I was a chief engineer on ships I had all this to work with in my spare time and sometimes when I was on "watch" on easy days,miss that part of the job.
Lots of stuff for folks to learn from your thread ,keep it up .

@porschetub

Chief engineer on ships sounds like an ultra cool job. Ton's of cool machinery on a ship!

One minor project completed today between Honey-Do projects of planting fall bulbs & yard chores.

Cleaned up one of the 2.4L cam tower housings. I don't have a lot of confidence in handing these off to my local machine shop for hot tanking. The surface finish between the heads and the cam tower housing is a very fine, almost lapped surface finish that doesn't rely on a gasket between the heads and the cam tower.

I'm a bit afraid that someone will end up banging parts on wire racks and/or metal benches. Plus, evertime I get parts back from the tank I still end up having to do a good hand scrub to get to my standard for cleanliness.

Used one of my favorite cleaners for motorcycles. S100 is the product name. It does a good job of breaking down grease deposits and then rinsing away clean. Still a lot of work involved with various brushes to get into the nooks but it turned out pretty well for about an hour and a half worth of work. Good enough for now. Will do final cleanup when engine is closer to assembly.

I love this thread and love the fact that you are also local to me. Inspires me to update my thread and continue the body work on my chassis, although the recent spell of really cold weather makes that more difficult without a properly heated garage.

If you ever need a second pair of hands, don't hesitate to send me a PM.

@eatpez

Reddy Heater 55000 BTU kerosene heater has been my only heat for 20+ years.

Over the years I’ve added insulation. I just insulated my 1960’s vintage metal garage doors last year. Should have done that a decade ago. Don’t need fancy heat. Sure would be nice though!

I dream of building my dream pole barn with a lift and radiant floor heat .. . Maybe someday!

Start basic. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good enough!


Brent Brock Has done amazing work out of a Harbor Freight temporary carport. I think Jeff Hail had a saying in his post to the effect of be the Spirit Of Can! Channel it. Don’t let obstacles stop you! Not even the crap we call winter.

Full disclosure though. The tent was in addition to a radiant floor heated (albeit cramped) garage. And I complain frequently. Kudos to you for soldiering on without central heat. I do envy your toys though.

Well another win some lose some day.

Picked up engine tin from Powder Coat. Overall I'm very happy with how it turned out even if it did take extraordinarily long.

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The red was done in gloss and the black in satin.

I'm pretty happy how the repairs turned out. I wasn't sure how much coverage I'd get with the powder coat. Overall, I'm happy but I can see a little of the weld seam in the engine tin I had to fabricate to reair the A/C butchery.

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The Black Satin definately hides better than the gloss. Here is the tin that had the crack repair under the coil.

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and the top side

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And of course there is always one little oopsie the you don't see coming. Looks like I missed a rust spot. When the tin was sandblasted it looks like it blew out and of course the powder coater just chugged along.

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Oh well. At least this isn't on a visible area. I may just epoxy it a bit . . . or I may try to find another piece and have it powder coated seperately. We'll see.