I think the idea is to get rid of an unsupported gear that can cause a lot of damage to the box if it breaks. I'm a bit concerned I will have issues getting up my driveway and into the garage since I live on a steep hill but I guess I'll just drive it up fast. My first gear parts were shot anyway so doc evil took them out. He performed a gearectomy.

Although I hardly ever use 1st, I chose to keep it. With the torque of a v8 you can put it in first gear on a hill and idle at a stop light without the clutch in.

I never use first for driving, up or downshifting.

I also kept first & use it. If you get in stop & go traffic it is nice to have. Also my v8 does not have scary torque. I pretty much use it for normal driving. I do not hammer it period. If I am in a hurry & want to get on it I start in second. My only worry is if I let someone drive my car. I think the only chance it has of screwing up first is if some jackes revs the motor & pops the clutch . Which sorta happened when I let an unlce drive it. After repeatedly telling him abut 1st & not to launch if you use it . I damn near kicked his ass right there. Still it survived just fine. Just scared the crap out of me as I was sure it would break

All good info and part of the reason I kept the trans from an 80K parts car in case I want to go conventional 5 speed.

My 4 speed trans has an H gear and the engine has a 6850 redline. I'm hoping to see 175+

I know you can't abuse it, but why lose it rather than avoid using it? Geez I'm a poet and don't know it. Seems like it would be handy as an "underdrive" for going slowly in a parking lot, driveway, loading on a trailer, etc.

[edit]oops, I should have refreshed the page before responding, didn't see all the other responses to 1st.

reasons to keep = parking lots, driveways, loading on a trailers, traffic /// reasons to not = letting others drive it /// i choose to be safe than sorry and will pray that when i do drive it that i don't get stuck in traffic. i also hate jambing my leg with the shifter every time i go into first : (

the other upside is the first reverse slider is $400 new. a crappy slider will work for this configuration.

Because all the cool kids do it.

Jim,

Its plain and simple, You tell them its a 4 speed. Reverse is left-up. Simple.

once complete - i will need to find someone to reengrave my BALL : )

When you clipped the purple wire, did the ticking stop?

thankfully i am able to report that it did : ) ticking stopped : ))

an explosion would have been bad, especially since the metal work is well underway and the entire reassembly should being next weekend, once the final few parts ordered are received.

from a drivers stand point - the car should be better than new - from an onlookers stand point - it will look like the same old clunker it did 4 weeks ago : )

New Scotty pix?

Waiting on parts, and in the meantime I have a couple small things to take care of yesterday and today. Should be getting back on the rust repairs tomorrow.

Unsupported gear? clue me in please. LOL Bob

Slacker

1st and reverse gears are cantilevered in trans

they are on the other side of the intermediate plate - from the other 4 forward gears. these 4 are on shafts that are supported by bearing on both ends.

jim

I think Hurst has been producing them for years .

Jack

i was blissfully unaware - but scott is pulling this car out of the jaws of death : )

wow!

jim

Welcome to the 914 rust club What kills me is the white car that I bought for $100 has way less rust and repair issues than the red car that Scott is repairing. But the white car came later and timing is everything. It's sort of amazing that these cars even hold together with all the rust that infects them.

Mine's bad...but this was a real boost for my self esteem! Thanks, Jim!!

Now dems some good Scotty pix

my rust bucket just hit the pause button : (

had to order some new metal thank god for restoration design : )

rear floor pan, 4 seat hinge brackets and hinges, and one emergency brake pivot.

waiting for some other parts to arrive as well - so it is time for a beer : )



maybe two or three

Love hurts, my friend

hurts - yup - kind of like - one minute she is sitting there looking so sweet sipping on some wine with a ribbon in her hair - and - the next minute she is sliding her pants off only to reveal a tattoo on her butt of dennis rodman and 5 piercings on her $%^& : (

And it's expensive....sometimes it burns too............

Hi Jim,

I'm about to send my '75 in for conversion release 3.0. The first one was in the mid 1990s and the second round was seven years ago.

You'll like the 4 speed version of the 901, I have never missed first and the flipped H gives a reasonable cruise on the freeway. 70mph is around 2700rpm with 205/50/15s. It feels just like a '69 Camaro 4 speed, just smaller, a little quicker and handles way better.

But when I drive mine, it always seems like there should be one more gear at the top end. I was able to find a 915 trans with 3:10 gears, and I was able to match the first 4 gears to my Renegade 901 4 speed with an extra overdrive for 5th. 70mph should be around 2100 rpm with 265/45/16s. I'm adding fuel injection this time around because the carb never worked as well as I hoped.

I will be going through the rest of the car, a lot like you're doing. Sean in San Diego will be handling the metal work (rust, stiffening, steel flares, etc.) I'll be starting a thread of my own when the car goes in to the shop next month.

Congrats on going back and doing it right. You're an inspiration to the rest of us.

Eric

Exactly how much repair is required for a car to classify as a whole new car. When I finally get my car together I've got to make it up there and see scotty's work for myself.

Looks great! I'm jealous as usual.

Here is the vid of why your intermediate plate was kah kah. The bearing should not move like that

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3l04VUTY_4

Wow, Jim, what kind of Frenken-turd did you send me? The large bearing spins freely in the int plate, the threads on the end of the input shaft are boogered (I can save this), and your input int plate bearing is made of TWO different bearings! Never seen that one I can fix....

mike - good catch - thanks for the video and pics : )

All done. You needed the bearing plate replaced as well.

Parts replaced:
- Input bearing
- Bearing plate
- Intermediate plate
- Nut lock down plate
- 1st gear nut

Good thing you wanted it stock. That H gear you sent with it is toasty. There is bad galling.

All ready to go together at Scottys. I have to go deliver a baby now, which is a good thing since she may have been due when I was to go to Scotty's and that would have been complicated

Kinda cool, a few minutes ago I was rebuilding your stack - took a shower - and now gonna deliver a baby. Ya, I am a stud

Turned into a c-section...still took too long But, I like cutting

You mean you didn't try the salad spoons and/or a pry bar before hand?

thanks doc : )
jim

i'll bring you a nice H to scott's party.
http://www.pbase.com/jimkellysells/image/138263782

the galled H we'll put into my next rebuild to see how long it holds up since the galling will be on the non contact side when run flipped.

She was stalled at 6cm, you need full dilation and station before you use the vag tools. The heart tracing was not reassuring, either, so onto the cutting board with her. She did well I didnt tell her, "hey guess what my hands were just in before we did your surgery!"

Somewhere in the deepest darkest bowels of Washington Pa, there is a newborn that stinks of gear oil. this child, soon to be known only as " gearstack" Shall someday, grow up to lead an army of smelly sub-humans that will change the world forever in an epic way.

got the word from resto design that my rear pan, seat bracket pieces and emergency brake piece shipped today : )

soon i will be able to GO & STOP : ))

Awesome...

interesting engine thread.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/building-s...ower-85571.html

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tech-gen...-dz302-sbc.html

jim

http://www.elephantracing.com/documents/91...trailingarm.pdf

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...amp;hl=elephant bushings install&st=0

scott - also - before you press my hubs into my trailing arms - pls make sure the hubs are fully machined to accept the rotor's lugs and retaining screws. i think they may still need drilling and tapping for retaining screws??

skline's exhaust pic in this thread
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=skline+exhaust

The core traz you gave me pissed oil all over the back of the suby

Your rebuilt one is done and ready to install.

And I was lucky enough to watch the good Dr. put it together.

Want me to test it out first for you Jim?

911 hubs with 914-6 rotors should be fine.

***IMPORTANT***, augmentation to the Elephant instructions:

Instructions say - Use a 1/16th" bit. You will break that. I simply use a 5mm drill to tap for a 6 x 1 thread all the way through* ( use a 4.2mm if your kit does indeed have the M5 x .8 )

Instructions say - Drill and tap for M5 x .8. *I found the last kit I received (the ones for my car) came with M6 x 1 zerks. ( again, use a 4.2mm if your kit does ineed have the M5 x .8 )

Best to use a drill press if you have one that can get into those areas. Install the hubs "last" to accomodate access with the drill press.

scott - stuff i will bring with me on next trip to your shop : )

also bringing some 1.7/1.8 exhaust stuff for sunab914

out with the old and in with the new. Powder coated parts, Elephant poly bronze bushings, sway bar, new drop link bushings, turbo tie rods, steering coupler from Dr Foley, and a little something from the Sheaman

I want pretty suspension parts too