that is real pretty. pls report back on quietness. video pls. i assume it can be removed with axles in? what is nice about one muffler in back is that it acts as a crossover too.

Speed metals exhaust system would double the value of most 914's.

i hate nature

white doors off, red doors on.

Awesome technique BTW

this is getting ridiculous. I really need a pickup truck. my hot water heater broke and I needed to replace it today. Porsche 914 to the rescue. even had to remove the trunk lid to pull this off.

That is nuts! I think I would have laid it on the roof myself... as in on the roof and in the trunk.

I'm curious if it made it home safely without falling out.

Around here in Dallas for $20 you can rent one of their trucks for a little over an hour.
I have done this many times over the years.

--- bill

drove 45 in a 55 all the way home. got it into place and installed, but no heat this is my 3rd water heater install, never had any trouble before. just called a neighbor plumber.

today: 15 nov 2015, found 3 trans nuts loose.

too dang cold for my baby

crazed turn signal lenses gone, thanks to 914rubber, much better

from this to this or vice versa

there must be a trick to the eye brow grommets and eye brow install. seems the eye brow over laps the front vertical piece of metal, my eye brows were all bent up. put a strip of duct tape for added safety. looks better and worser : )

while I was fooling with this, I was using an ebay $5 fish tank pump to pump out the water from a cooler that I put in my crawl space to catch most of the water from my broken hot water heater that broke a few weeks ago. the little pump tricked the water out just fine

lastly, my radiator leaks, and my thread about this is here. probably going to go with a celica assy from ebay $140 shipped.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=270334

well, I just bought this kospeed/celica radiator off ebay for $131 shipped and two hose splices from jags that run.just ordered to splices from jags that run, a 1 to 1.5 and a 1.25 to 1.5, to I can mate up radiator to my existing hoses. per andyrew this radiator is pictured upside down.
http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling...seSplicers.html

still waiting on radiator to arrive BUT rcvd my 1" steel square tube today. two 6' lenghts so i can do both cars with same set up as A&P Mech has in his car.

Should work well.

I used a U channel for the radiator to sit in, and then 1/8"x2" flatbar for the radiator to sit against, with foam rubber seal floating everything.

drove my car the other night in the rain and my windows fogged up real bad, so I visited harbor freight and got me one of there little 12V heaters and I think it helped greatly for my drive tonight. at first I only had a clear small area in front of driver but over 2-3 hours, almost my entire window was clear. though it was not raining and the roads were mostly dry. when I first turned it on, it blew my 5amp fuse, but was fine with 10amp subsequently.

Jim, be careful with upsizing those fuses. The fuses are sized to protect the size wire that is used on that circuit. Not the appliance it serves. Probably best to run a dedicated circuit for that heater sized for the heater.

I will. I have this fuse panel on my dash feed via 10g wire from my battery. it was part of my temporary fix to get my horn and wipers working enough for inspection, and to feed my radiators. it also feeds my gps or my harbor freight defroster.

thanks, I really appreciate you guys looking out for me and my half assed ways that i can't seem to shake

still waiting on my celica radiator to arrive. my leaky radiator is holding up just enough to keep me moving but I have to top it off every few days and refill my overflow as well regularly. looking forward to swapping out my radiator this coming week

I also need a second 12v plug so I can run my gps (for its speedo) and my heater at same time. i'll probably cut wires to heater and hard wire into my fuse box.

while waiting for the new rad, why not install something like this for some real comfort ??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSAL-SMAL...gy~&vxp=mtr

that is nice. i really do need something like that. was a little chilly last night, burr.

still getting chunks of crap (deteriorated rubber hose I think) in my 1st fuel filter but less and less. though I still prefer transparent fuel filters over metal ones.

began getting gas BEFORE I run out and get stranded. makes good sense.

my bad radiator thread..
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=270334&hl=

my 10 year old renegade radiator leaks in all 4 corners. can't believe i made it to work today

i can tell you those bottom vibration dampener grommets are hard as rocks, no dampening happening with these.

for a while i did not have my fender openings screened off, so mice found a home

now it is a mouse debris free zone.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb2e14fdSFU

my radiator arrived
and we started to fab up the mount (i made the pieces and my buddy tacked them together) like a&p mech did in his car.
used rivnuts (for first time ever), hope they last long term?
not sure if this is gonna work BUT i am trying to add some EZ BRUSH to the top and ID of some rubber grommets to use as my bottom vibration dampers. i'll know if it was a reasonable success in the AM, when i will remove the outer and inner molds
they came out decent but i need to get over to home depot and get the right sized ID grommets (5/8 ID).

Whats the green stuff made from?

company: smooth on
green product: ez brush
blue product: smooth sil ( a different product we use sometimes)
i thought making a mold was gonna be cake walk, realized it was not gonna be, so i will be suing a standard grommet on bottom and top.

After mice chewed wires on my car after a winter storage, I was told to throw in some dryer sheets around the car. Seemed to do the trick last year.

few more pics of progress.
end tabs (made from angle iron) should have had a shorter welded horizontal section (maybe 3/4 inch), vertical section is fine as is.
got the bottom grommets (5/8 ID from lowes) in, dead nuts, whew 28 11/16 center to center.

Those tacks look pretty cold, See if your welder buddy can put a vertical tack on the end of the bar going to the piece that holds the radiator. If not just a 1" bead on the top.

Grommet looks great!

that's all me. i've taken over the welding on this project : )

that said, i agree, but they are enough for test fit purposes. later i will heat the shit out of it when i tig it for long term use

more pics of ugly welding to come

i gotta do a little something different at the front then a&p mech did as i wound up in a slightly different location then he did. could be cause i do things half assed

few more pics. not bragging BUT my welds are unique

well, radiator sits in there real nice it seems IN its bottom grommets. tomorrow i will start on installing the ducting, i'm reusing my renegade duct work aluminum if i can.

my first fab job, and my first real weld job, i'm happy with it so far.

it is 10pm, i started this at 3pm i think and did a piece of it yesterday. many hours to go.

if i was good with angles and if i were doing the welding in the car, i could have done a few areas a bit nicer.

It's looking good. I am curious what made you decide to abandon the OEM Toyota lower radiator vibration mounts? They appear to be very well engineered.

i'm cheap, and the best priced place only had one in stock, so i thought i could make something decent but later realized i should have sprung for the toyota part. time constraint then led me to use a simple rubber grommet.

This site looks like they have answers for some of my problems- anyone have any experience with this company, the heaters or the a/c units? If they work like they say, I'll probably pick up a combination of their products to make my ride more comfortable.

what site?

reusing all my renegade aluminum, working well.

The link to the Ebay site for a heater. Found some info on a/c units too. They're small enough to fit in a stack where many have a console coming down from the dash. Looks like just the ticket for us waterboxer folks...

well, radiator is mostly in, using renegade's radiators and shroud. notice it is about 1.5 inches too tall and i take my welding comment back, for aluminum, i had rod and dave take turns. seems neither of my existing hoses, 1" and 1.25" fit my new radiator. tomorrow i need to buy some 1.5" hose and make some transitions. also, my new radiator does not have a build in temp sensor to trigger radiators, so i need to rig something up.

stumbling block. the coolant spouts on radiator are both 1.391" OD. my car has one coolant hose that is 1.00" ID and the other is 1.25" ID, dead nuts. so i turned these (temporary stainless steel) transitions last night. one is 1" OD to 1.390"+- OD with 3/4" passage, and, the other is 1.25" to 1.390"+- with a 1" passage. now i need to get me some toyota celica 2000-2005 radiator hose, assuming it will be very close to having a 1.390" +- ID ???

oh, the coolant spouts on the renegade radiator were dead nuts ODs, 1" and 1.25". no dramatic hose stretching required for it.

((UPDATE: I wound up NOT using these transitions. see below ))

guess i will just put a hose and plug on this? .400 OD nipple.

Why not tig the adapters to the radiator? Thats what im going to do....

i canceled my order with jags that run ( for 2 transitions with 1.5" ODs on one side with in hindsight are probably too large for the radiator side, 1.391") because i was under the impression that my 1.25 hose would fit the radiator but i am now thinking it won't. but even if it did i would need a solution for my 1" hose. but i was confused and wanted to wait till i got the radiator to decide what i really needed. i do not think an american fraction will work well with this radiator?? 1-13/32 = 1.391

Thus the exact reason I am welding on some 1 1/4" pipe on my in/out. I happen to be running 1 1/4" lines so this works out for the best.

that's nice.
remember that one radiator outlet is kinds close to floor pan.
does it matter which radiator port is used as the outlet (cooler water to engine) and which is used as inlet (hot water from engine)?

Water typically flows down, so in our case I think the drivers side is the hot side.

i completely forgot i had these on my renegade radiator.

Hah! Thats awesome. Simple solutions are simple

the green arrow is pointing towards the, inbound/hot/high pressure side, of the radiator. I simply put a capped hose on the small nipple at top (see green arrow).

Correct. Thats what I would believe as well.

note: on the renegade system the wider 1.25" hose (to water pump from radiator) goes to the lowest/widest radiator port... and the narrow 1.00" hose (thermostat to radiator) goes to the top/narrowest radiator port.

see pic, mount tabs on renegade radiator are at its bottom.

Quote from RH's web site.

$120 RADIATOR HOSE: High quality hose, Gates Green Stripe or equivalent. Routed from the radiator to the engine compartment in the recesses beneath the floor of the car; 1-1/4" I.D. from lower radiator to pump and 1" I.D. from upper radiator to the thermostat housing. Very reliable and durable for this application - will easily last several years.

So I guess your right. Large is the outlet. I read it wrong the first time.

The larger hose is the suction side of the radiator (return to water pump)the high pressure is the one that comes from the thermostat on your SBC. arrow above goes to the high pressure side

so i will be having the (aluminum) 1.25 port welded to bottom of rad on pass side (low pressure side(cooler/outbound to engine)) -- and 1" port to mid level of rad on drivers side (high pressure side(hot/inbound from engine)). this pic has radiator in it correct orientation (top and bottom ) with radiators facing rear of car. i now realize the rad is nothing fancy, it simply passes water from one side to the other, and cools it down a bit in the process, from drivers side to pass side..