thanks - i comprehend it now. and a big thanks to you, bigkat, for figuring out and sharing, that this radiator is a good option for our 914 cars

hoses connected. fans are manual ON until i get a sensor installed. ran car for about 10 mins, letting it cool down, will recheck water level then. my welding resulted in one upright not being perfectly symetrical to the other, thus the larger gap at top on the drivers side

What are you going to use to fill the gap?

i think i will bend some aluminum to shroud the top gap, using the 3 rivnuts in the renegade shroud. there are other gaps but i do not think they are substantial enough to need filling.

traffic was so bad in one spot I had no choice but to use 1st gear. the hwy went from 4 lanes to 1 lane for construction, but thankfully the STOP AND GO congestion only lasted about a mile, but I was on the upside of the crest and had no idea of the extent of the congestion, so I called my wife and she checked the internet and told me it was brief. this was a 3 hr journey, immediately after getting my new radiator installed, hoses connected, water in my system, and then letting it idle for about to 2 hrs, while checking for leaks, and checking my temp guage for over heating, to be MORE certain I could pull the trip off. whew.

and i will be getting these inline adaptor and switch to control my fans.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE0Skdtlwx0

Looks like a good switch

I've got the attached that I'll be using for my water to air intercooler. But Im only doing it because I want to run it down to about 120deg. As I ordered it I figured it could actually be a really nice fan switch for a radiator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271731547643?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301806832466?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

wow and for about only $20, that is amazing! no fear ordering stuff from Chinese sellers??

seems the type I am looking at has a 15 degree gap between OFF (175) and ON (190), (per summit site) which is not bad.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16731

but if it turns off any lower than 175, i'll want one that has better control of off and on.

I figured I'd give it a try, Worst thing i'll get is heat soak and my meth injection will be working extra hard... I'll have performance logs of everything including intake air temp so I can see when its not working.

I've ordered quite a lot of Chinese stuff so far. In fact I've got parts from China, Japan, Australia, Indonesia, a bunch others and I am waiting on some wiring loom tape from Lithuania.

There are other cheaper one's available on amazon for about $5, but I liked the way this one mounted, and it looked like they all the options out there use the same $5 board and just have different cover plates/mounts.

Chris at Tangerine sells that loom tape

since the celica radiator has a small nipple on the hot/high pressure side for a header tank, i was wondering if we should be installing a header tank? what are the benefits/drawbacks? and what is a header tank : )

this one is for mepstein. i oopsed on the length of the horizontal bar but this is easily rectified by a longer overhang of the tabs that attached it to the car.

finally got a 190 degree thermo switch and my housing. will install this week. my thermostat is 190 degree, so my fans should run much less then ever before.

switch is in but twice when i ran the engine the fans did not come on before engine reached 230 degrees. turned out the 2 part thermo switch was coming unthreaded thus losing thermo conductivity, we think. my buddy them put copper gasket between the two sections to hold them together and improve thermo conductivity. my buddy also added some DUM DUM he calls it to help additionally.

thursday evening was in the 60s and my car ran between 195 and 205 degrees on hwy and fans for the most part did not come on. today was probably around 50 degrees and my fans never came on except when i stopped for gas with engine running and engine ran about 190+- most of the time.

i'm thinking that when the summer rolls aroubnd, i will need to seal up any gaps in my radiator ducting and may need to go to a 180 degree thermo switch?

right now i have a 190 thermostat in engine and a 190 thermo switch on radiator hose.

i did end up using pipe tape to make the seal in the npt thread between thermo switch and the aluminum radiator hose housing. the tape though may have contributed to keeping the switch from going in deep and keeping it more away from the main water flow then had i not used it. though i did not think the switch would be deep enough to be in the flow no matter what i did.

best of all, i do not need to manually plug my fans into power every time i drive.

Are those HF hose clamps? If so, you are the first person to ever get one of those to tighten up without stripping out.

they came with the housing but i did over tighten one and had to replaced it. i think i'll order a few nicer ones from mcmaster carr the next time i place an order from them.

jan 22 2016 wintery mix drive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkLs0AxzgrM

leaky stamped steel valve covers. so i got me a vintage set of aluminum valve covers that arrived today. will install on next nice day, raining like crazy today. cleaned them up and used form a gasket 2A on the seal surface between covers and gasket, setting up now. gonna try no sealant between gasket and engine.

I've had good luck with Valve cover->sealant->gasket->engine. Thin layer of sealant is basically there to keep the gasket in place.

that's what i am doing. thanks. dropped screws in holes to keep them in place while setting up.

wound up putting valve cover replacement on hold. after further analysis with my coworker, it turned out that the 2 inner bolts holding my intake manifold on were seeping oil thru their threads. added some sealant and got 3 taken care of and redid the 4th today. further turns out that I have other oil leaks, maybe front crank seal. gonna have to pull the engine when the weather gets better and blow a weekend getting dirty.

some of this has its own thread...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=276017

last week we determined that some of my oil leak problem was 4 bolts holding my carb intake to the heads, so we applied sealant and 3 stopped leaking. on Saturday I thought i'd address the last one that did not stop leaking, so not only did I add sealant to it again, I decided to use a longer bolt because the other 3 were longer. I used a 1.5" bolt but it turns out the other were probably 1.25", the max that should be used. so anyway, monday go for a drive but power is weird, I figured it had to do with engine being cold and I just changed the fuel filter and thought maybe there was some starving going on, but 30 minutes later I decided to go back home and figure out what was wrong. anyway, yesterday I pull the valve cover off to find a cracked valve rod that I retrieved from the head with a magnet on a stick but I had to remove the intake to put the lifter back in the head. anyway, it is all back together but it revs ok in neutral but under load it is either valves or knocking. what you think? anyway, why does a guy with so little mechanical prowess own a 914, who the hell knows. i'd like to think the noise is due mostly to timing cause I of course had to pull the distributor. and I never put a tdc mark on my flywheel or crank balancer, need to, asap. I first thought it was vacuum advance problem but vacuum is pulling thru hose.

and i have an 8360 msd distributor and am thinking about addind a msd 8728 soft touch rev limiter to it, 3900 rpm limit.

today i took my car to rightpedal's (aka: steve) house and he located TDC, adjusted valves, timed engine and it is once again running like it should. one thing new is that my belt pulley was hitting my timing belt cover, steve tweaked this, to be fixed properly another time. gonna order a new pulley and spacer (from renegade) and timing chain cover. thank you steve : ) oh, pics of valve are supposed to show some mushrooming but pics sucks.

The last paragraph ehould be first, right?


You and steve solved the issues and its running good now?

yes. i changed location of that paragraph.
yes. running good now. which gave me an opportunity to park in the snow

Wow I really am thinning out on top. Time for poor person rogaine... A hat.

We didn't solve all the problems, but yes running much better. I'm sure Jim will chime in and lay out the list.

Steve.

gotta get me some of these in SAE : ) especially nice for removing the spark plugs that hide behind my shorty headers.

funny thing is that when i woke up on sunday, my wife said, happy valentines day. i said, oh shit, sorry babe, gotta work on car : ) many thanks to steve's lovely wife for setting him free for most of the day to get greasy with me

So... You had a good Valentine's day then?

while i have not driven my car IN much snow, i have driven it on wet salted roads and my throttle cable started feeling like shit, not smooth and i can see it was starting to get some corrosion on it where it was not sheathed in engine bay. so i applied this stuff on liberally, hope it makes a difference in peddle feel.

yes... yes i did

got a bad oil leak in the front of my 350. lose about a quart for every 450 miles i drive. gonna take a peak at it in the near future. i am sure it is fixable, but if not, $1500 new engine. gonna have to put a rev limiter on my car either way, as it is hard not to put my foot into it and get to redline and beyond, too damn quickly.

Damn you and your brand new $1500 engines!

j/k....so tempting to have something with 0 miles at that price..

i paid $1000 for my 307, 4 barrel carb to pan, though she is well used, she pulls fine. but new for $1500, gosh, seems attractive, especially when a new set of LE heads from hoffman run, what $2000. i'm guzzling gas and can't go to your rpms either : (

Why not drop the engine, put a new front crank seal and check the oil and timing chain seal? Probably $20 worth of parts, 6 hours of work..

that is the plan. just always itched for a brand new engine and like pissing everyone off with the sbc low low low price : )

rightpedal is located about 1 hr from my house and has volunteered to do this repair with/for me : ) i look forward to not having a wet oily engine bay one day till then i'm gonna drive it like it is s brand new BRZ

Your going to drive it like its slow, horrible tires, and no has torque?


(Attacks from a Fiesta ST owner)

alright alright, i take it back,

as clayperrine said in another post, the two spades do connect to starter solenoid, i just tried it finally. red wire.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=279375&hl=

finally closed up the air gaps in my radiator install. you know, half assed like normal.

last week i was driving in nicer weather, not sure the actual temperature BUT IT WAS NOT A HOT DAY and my fans were on most of the time on hwy driving and my engine was running a slightly above the 190 degree thermostat i have in the engine. hopefully this - sealing up - will improve things???

oh, i found some silver tape at work, hope it is flue tape. we'll see.

nope, taping up gaps did not fix cooling problem, luckily weather has not been hot yet. also i am trying gel bicycle seat covers under my seat cushion for comfort and reduced aching butt. update to follow.

Sounds like you have air in the system. Check for leaks?

3900 rpm? why so low.

Seems like it's gotta be air in the system. If you don't have a leak you might want to run it through a few warm up/cool down cycles and see if it works its way out.

no leaks. i have been running it for months and never need to add coolant.

Air in the system can happen without visible leaks. Air can get in during the cooling off of the system.

If you open the radiator cap when cool, does it need additional fluid added?

Does it stay warm all the time or only when stop & go driving?

I don't think 190 is a problem temperature. You probably run more efficient at that then lower.

today i noticed my water level was about 1" lower than normal but in pic below engine has been running for some minutes and level is higher then when fully cold.

but aside from this i have a funny story. not ha ha funny really.

i see my car in the work parking lot, but it is not were it was, it was about 5 feet forward and touching a fence pole. seems no one did it but i could not figure out that happened. later in the day a coworker says, jim your car is making a funny noise. i get out there and it sounds like a dead battery trying to start a car. turns out my alternative momentary switch that runs to relay board got wet among other things cause i had the car in a big rain storm UNCOVERED, and this caused my starter to get power and it SELF DROVE itself forward and into a fence pole. it is all dry now and all is fine and battery is charged back up.

bottom line, got to keep car dry, or less wet.

jim

That's Funny !!

i fully expect that one day a PORSCHE rep is gonna show up at my door and say THAT"S IT, we are pulling your porsche card and banning me from owning a porsche of any kind for life

If your plenum has any gaps your pissing in your mess kit, Jim. #1; Seal it up properly then you can begin to diagnose and address your over heating problems. It helps to stick a drop light inside the plenum then turn off the garage lights. If you see light it ain't sealed. #2; Bleed the air out. Trapped air gets the blame a lot and I don't know why. I have 6 up/downs and never had that problem. Very easy to bleed the system once and then your done. #3; When, if ever have, you done a thorough flush of the block and radiator. I assume that radiator cooled your SBC sufficiently prior to this.
Ditto to what Andy said about sealing up the SBC. Very easy but don't over tighten & warp the cover when you put it back together.

> my alternative momentary switch that runs to relay board

What's that?

-Steve

the momentary function of my ignition switch sometimes does not work, so i put a momentary switch that is wired from battery, to switch, to relay board, to starter solenoid, for emergencies. just another one of my half assed temporary solutions