today i hoped into the car to pick up some things for work right after talking to rightpedal and i was taking a cloverleaf to enter the highway when i hear a ZING noise like a cable snapped but my throttle felt ok and my clutch felt ok and my water temp was fine, so i chauked it as being something on the road that i ran over on the road. but when i reached my destination about one mile later, i shut the engine down, and then noticed my water temps were out of control. my guage said 240-250 +-. turns out my water pump belt flung off probably due to the massive amount of leaked oil that protects my entire engine and engine bay (thus my talking to rightpedal today) so while it was cooling down i called some coworkers but cell phone reception sucks here in this steel building, so it took me many calls before i reached anyone. finally i reached root and he came to my rescue with his 1965 chevy pick up loaded with tools and jacks and jack stands. we went to carquest who gave me the wrong belt at first, requiring a second trip to them for the correct one. gates 7410. anyway, after UP TO elbows covered in grease and coolant, we got it back on the road, and went to lunch : ) this is the second time i almost COOKED this engine. i'd be remiss to not mention how great the guys at roberts oxygen where with helping me out today.

well. yesterday I had the opportunity (I use the term loosely) to drive my car in 85 +- temp and on the highway at 65mph my car was running 210 degrees with fan on the whole time.

today I decided that for summer driving, I need to do it without a thermostat, so it is out. I just ran the engine, at idle, it is 90 degrees and the car came down to 190 with fans on, fans are triggered by a 185 degree thermos switch that did not come on till engine hit 205+-

later today or tomorrow, I will take it for a drive to see how it does at 65mph steady.

a debate..
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/296111/

when temps are 80 and above, I NEED to get my water temps to safe levels , and thus the thermos must come out in summer, or I need to replace my radiator for something with more capacity I guess.

ok, 190 degree thermostat out, and local temp is about 82 degrees, and at 65mph and at idle while getting gas, engine water temp stayed pretty solid at 190 degrees WITH FANS RUNNING ALMOST NON STOP. probably should also replace my 180 degree thermos switch for a 190 degree in summer so fans will run less.

bottom line: 20 degree improvement and at ideal temp of 190 also. curious to see what happens when outside temps hit 95+-.

finally relocated my light that tells me when my radiators are running. and that is my engine idleing at 190 in my garage with door open. want to change over to electronic oil pressure and water temp gauges at some point.

rightpedal gave me one job to do when he fixed my car back in feb. to mark TDC more permanently on my flywheel. i finally got to it today. new problem, ticking sound when starting car. almost sounds like sparking but i think it may be a broken tooth on the flywheel or starter?

took my car to rightpedal's home today, as he offered to swap out timing cover and timing cover and oil pan gaskets, in an effort to stop my oil leak. during the job, he discovered that my harmonic balancer had a crack in it so i have to order a new one and this coming weekend we will be able to button it up. i can't thank steve enough for giving my car some much needed attention

BTW, Mark has the sweetest V8 conversion I have seen or ridden in. Quiet enough, powerful enough and a very good looking narrow body.

Had. He sold it to a fellow member who won best conversion with it at WCR. Agree its a fantastic car.

my next purchase. to fix my loose engine bay shift rod.
http://www.tangerineracing.com/transmission.htm

just spoke to steve at renegade hybrids and my balancer should be getting picked up by fedex tonight. i should be back on the road sunday thanks to rightpedal and renegade hybrids.

my 1990 suby legacy is acting up so i am back to driving 914 for now.

turns out that despite best efforts, it is not very easy to uninstall and reinstall a timing cover and oil pan, and completely seal them both, with engine in car. my engine still leaks, more than before, thus i am now looking at removing engine from car, so i can repair this with engine upside down on engine stand. just wish i had my hoist here at work : (

watching steve do it has given me the confidence to give it a shot myself, along with a few youtube videos. we put a one piece felpro got at his local advanceauto on it and they are reusable, is that is good.

while i am in there i will check the teeth on my starter and flywheel to make sure non are missing as i have a weird sound when i start my engine.

also, one other problem with my car is the trans. i think i have end play. noticeable when i let off gas and then get back on it with a foot a tad bit more then very mild.

lastly, i've bleed my brakes to death and they are still pathetic : (

miserable drive to work this week, they were repairing the road and had all traffic standing still for about 30 mins. a ridiculous number of cars pulled u turns but i had no alternate route possibility : (

I think the guy in front of you was taunting you!

you noticed that

my excuses are running thin. looks like the wife won't be seeing much of me this weekend

don't need hoist to get engine out BUT do need it to get engine on stand, so i can work on engine upside down.

decided to tackle this over the weekend at home in the comfort of my garage and closeness of my tools. bringing home an engine stand and made this lift bracket from some scrap laying around the shop.

and the removed for cleaning iacv from my 1990 legacy, could be causing my stalling issues?

the weather is rainy and overcast here in DE this weekend. I jacked car up yesterday in an attempt to actually see the source of the leak BUT holy shit, my car looks like it was deep fried, southern style, oil every where. add to this I just started wearing progressives, vision sucks, and being in the dim light does NOT help.

though I was fucked with suby and 914 not being driveable. checked some online threads for suby stalling (at idle and while driving) and found a few, one suggest fuel filter, and being the easiest, I bought a new one an popped it in.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/...alling-at-idle/

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/...ing-138323.html

well, first for the oil pics.

and now for the dirty gas in the OLD suby fuel filter. $47 for new filter at advancedauto, the only one they had in stock. I have suby running right now in driveway, idleing and no stall so far. drove it up street and all seemed smooth. looks like I have a car to drive to work this week, and more time to deal with 914. I did later in day drive it to gas station to fill up and on way home it did act up. and then again when idleing in driveway. not nearly as bad as last week, before filter change. may have to try a bottle of water remover in tank and injector cleaner in tank too??

I realized that I do miss driving my 914 v8. can't wait to get it buttoned up and driving it everyday again.

saga continues thus the plethera of suby pics. even with new fue3l filter, car still acted up. so i did a seafoam thru idle air control valve proceedure which seems to have helped some too. but then i discovered that my car was throwing a code 23, which is manifold air flow valve, so i ordered one from ebay, threw it in and car ran FAR WORSE, so i reinstalled orig MAF. i tried a swap of my cam sensor, but no change. i will do a maf sensor cleaning next, and may install a fuel pressure guage to be certain i have the expected 36 psi. lastly, the tranny is doing the suby binding thing again. hate simultaneous issues : (

my 1967 283 arrives. seller tore it down and basically rebuilt and ran it. gonna replace my 307.

still need to pull my oil covered 307 out and then swap all needed parts over, trans, renegade trans conversion parts, carbs, etc etc etc.

and update on my 1990 Subaru, my SUPPOSED daily driver till me 914 gets back on the road. started stumbling again, so I have iacv out and will clean it and the maf. hoses so hard that they cracked, and I cracked a tee as well

Jim, I'm guessing that you do not have the factory engine manual. If not, your chasing your tail. The factory manual will give you the diagnostic procedure to follow up on the error code. It will be something like; check pin 1 for "X" volts when key is on; pin2 will have "X" volt with key off, etc, etc. Informative and easy to follow. Kent

I do have the factory manuals but until last week I thought my suby was missing one of its two green diagnostic plugs. turns out someone removed the tcu in the past, I could tell cause one of the two nuts holding it in place was missing, when I removed it, I discovered that the other green diagnostic plug had been pushed up and buried where it could not been seen normally. so I will do the green plug testing one I have the iacv back in. got to replace a bunch of heat brittled hoses to do this. thanks : )

Man I hope you are running a different Water pump on the 283. Reminds me of my buick v8 with how far that water pump sticks out. LOL! Can't remember what you were running on your 307

yes. I have renegade water pump to swap onto this 283, from my 307. the guy I bought this engine from just tossed this water pump on in case I needed one. great guy. though I've seen some colling problem threads that say the renegade pumps get corroded, etc, and need replace from time to time.

though I am thinking about electric pump and dedenbear manifold instead.
http://www.dedenbear.com/TXTwHead.htm

Hey Jim any progress on the 307?? I am dying to know where the leak is. I have ten bucks says it is the timing cover at the oil pan from our second "fix".

Steve

rigthpeddle, contact me the day you decide to pack the moving van. as for 914, I knew for sure but the thought of taking the OIL SATURATED engine out and attempting to fix the leak and putting it back in with the potential of not fixing it, has me unmotivated. so I bought a refurbished 283 for $350 delivered, a from a really nice guy, whose wife's it turns out is seriously ill and he was down sizing his toys. I need to pull my 307 and get this 283 in, which is something I can do myself, except for getting the distributor back on properly. cause I did not have a reliable daily driver, I bought a Honda fit (perfect timing cause our nissan versa just got paid off), and it has HEAT, which is actually pretty nice in the winter and is automatic in traffic. the problem with my 914 is that it is a money pit, i'm pretty sure it has some UNGOOD backlash in the trans, needs a new starter, and the alt belt vibes its ass off though the old cracked harmonic dampener could have been partly to blame? aside from that, I bleed the shit out of the brakes and they still suck, guess I have air in master or proportioning valve. and then there is the costly alignment a 914 needs. my wife was, justifiable so, getting tired of the unexpected 914 expenses. so for now, she is back on jackstands, not the wife the 914

Good looking honda! I am surprised you were able to drive a 914 daily for so long!

finally getting around to removing oily v8.

might convert both my cars to suby engine/trans?

starting with this one cause it already has a radiator in it?

my son being home for the summer helped me out. the two of us being about equally unmechanically inclined worked pretty hard in tandem getting the mufflers off using wrenches and big pipe

if my wife didn't have somewhere to be, we would have had engine out in about one more hour. will do tomorrow.

engine out.

planning to get my 914 back on the road. someday : )

http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html

note to self.
sealant on thru hole.

heads >> http://www.competitionproducts.com/World-P...A/#.XB7j71xKjcs

decided to lose some of the renegade stuff, and not do dedenbear components after all, to minimize cost and the number of components and hose connections on the front of my engine. going back to heavy stock water pump as i had it before, since i already have a hole in my firewall. gonna go with mechanical fuel pump too, to limit how many things that need 12v also. and plan to get rid of the headers which makes access to spark plugs less pleasant, and replace with iron exhaust manifolds. mostly i want reliability and i plan to make exhaust real quiet.

nice little rams horns discussion.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads...huggers.825134/

i'm willing to give up some performance for simplicity.

i did pick up cheap, a modified dedenbear expansion tank which i hope to be able to use.
http://www.dedenbear.com/Cool_cat.htm

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/search.php...section=product


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EzxmVG7hlU



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuNuv6y2css



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrMa_OM1tMQ



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFv7WcrGFY4



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4WRL513Gx4



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQNooaW6g74



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBxgDbvoeqE


5200rpm rams horns

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe9ke0rQlT8

LA larger area as well.

You could build a 914 v8 pick up. Rod Simpson hybrids had one a few years ago when I was last there. Silver over BK

Bob B

but i finally got a pick up truck : )

Glad to see ya back at it Jim!

I also totally blame my wife for .......

Where in the Hell ya been?

besides visiting the urologist every 6 months : )

mostly just working and raising two boys : )

pics of them, and the wife who always asks me the same question : )

pulled carb and distributor as to not crush them with chain on hoist. put my brand new milwaukee cordless drill torque tools to work : ) clutch arm was right up against trans nut, didn't remember this. my flywheel has 3 teeth that are chipped. and how do i loosen flywheel? it seems to be still on tight even with bolts removed. almost got to use my new harbor freight engine stand but need to get flywheel off first. guess i should have gotten a few dead blow hammers.

Same with the trans on my 2056. Had to engage the clutch to get to the bolt.

made a LITTLE progress today. removed flywheel (by banging it all around with a 2x4) and a bunch of other stuff from my removed 307 and got it on a cradle vs engine stand. engine stand did not mate up perfectly, so expect that if you buy one.

one thing i am concerned about, know should not be an issue, is the flywheel bolt pattern on the 307 vs the 283. once i get the 283 on a cradle too, i will be able to see it directly, but it seems smaller?

thought i would use the cradles as run stands too.

can i remove the pilot bearing from the 307 crank and reusue it? how to remove?

Best (easiest) way to remove pilot bushings is:

Fill the bushing with white lithium grease.
Find something round, solid, metal and just smaller than the bushing ID - a piece of round bar, bolt anything not hollow.
Insert the round rod into the bushing and tap it in with a hammer

The grease will hydraulically remove the bushing.

It is pretty satisfying to do.

Pierre

thanks for the tip.

here is a youtube video showing the technique.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OScJ2QKpV_k

Same bolt pattern. IIRC, that Pilot Shaft bushing is just a cheap oilite bushing! Git after it Jimmy.

And if you can't get it don't sweat it. They're cheap. Anyone that works on these engines probably has a couple in their toolbox. I haven't had a smallblock chev in years and I know there's at least one in my toolbox.

The right GM parts guy should be able to come up with a bearing that fits there instead of a bushing too. I'm not sure what they were used in anymore, but I'm thinking it was the 350 olds diesel. I used to have the factory part number but it's long gone.

pic of pilot bearing in 307. seems like it is a 2 piece set up, a bushing surrounding a roller bearing.

and some good starter info. since i plan to run the engine out of car first, i'm gonna get me a 168 tooth flexplate and starter. pic of my 283's block starter mount holes (3) for either a 153 tooth flexplate starter or a 168 tooth flexplate starter.

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/chevy-st...-all-situation/

You'll really like how fast it revs with the flexplate, like a bike. Don't be fooled, it will pick up rpms a lot slower with a flywheel. Been there done that a lot of years ago with a 350 that went in a firebird!

good point, thanks.

Don't think that bearing will come out. That's a Renagade adapter/ bearing assy. Pressed in. Tried to remove mine when changing to the Boxster trans setup.
Used the grease method & removal tool. No luck just pressed in too tight.
Might be able to rig up a puller but I learned I did not need to remove due to the new flywheel design.Click to view attachment

might have to buy a new bushing/bearing from renegade.

got to remember this too..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMYqdU_2GnE

pic of my garage. need to get something running soon. got 2 sbc v8 engines, 4 suby ej22 engines, 2 suby 5 spd transeseses, a 914 ss trans, and two 914 motors, BUT two 914 with empty engine bays. cleaned up some today, gonna clean out garage some more tomorrow and weather is gonna start getting reasonable very soon.

Seems like to could cobble something together with all of that that would be fun to drive once in a while.

Dart Board,,,you cant make a choice..run with it.....

the plan is to install the sbc 283 in the 1972 to replace the perpetually leaking 307. then put a suby eng/trans in the 1975, probably with microsquirt. i have one suby engine with a bad cylinder on test stand for the purpose of getting it running with microsquirt out of car. i'm also fooling with the idea are dual dellorto's on one of the suby engines with megajolt ignitiontion, making carb manifolds now. if i can get microsquirt car thru emissions, i can then swap in carbed suby engine. one step at a time, better weather, sbc 1972 car first. thought i would be organizing my garage some more today but my son is home under-the-weather, so that is on hold for today.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdUo-Ts4Acw



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EzxmVG7hlU



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onpUtFlOrMc



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcODCwpyjEk



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQdEMqg3ZdY


alternator and relay board pics from this thread
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340751