and then through your windshield you see Jim take off and disappear like a motorcycle.

not single out any one particular car - but it is one i am some what familar with.

what i am trying to do - is build a car that is 75% the fun of this one - at 25% the cost and 5% the time in labor.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...ic=72941&hl

jim

Hey, Jim. Did you budget for some door glass this go 'round?

you remembered : )

my plan is to install late model doors on it at some point and when it gets painted, replace all the worn out rubber seals.

** see related RTV thread
** http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...143216&st=0

jim

So onto the latest EVERY oneof the inner valve springs on this engine is broken, most in multiplpe spots. I had a friend that builds race car engines come by and take a look at it. He said this is very common with the HCevy's that run a factory dual spring setup. The good news for Jim is the parts are fairly cheap, so I'll be replacing all of the springs, keepers, and caps, as well as the timing chain as it has a little play in it

Drained the gas tank and pulled it. found Jim's washer bottle top and looked into some rust issues we knew about to see how bad they were


See Mark, it isn't just your car

those aren't springs theyre dampers

potato, potentate

I see... but I sure wouldn't wish my cars rust on anyone else.

not sure what i am looking at - it appears one area is the drivers side rear pan area - quite a few holes : (

on the upside, i think i also saw some shiny metal in isolated areas : )

scott - thanks for the play by play imagery !!!

jim

I found where O.J.'s knife went. Removed the ventilation system, fuel system, cooling system and pretty much everything else that will be replaced or deleted. Popped out the seats, power washed the engine bay, underside ,and the front trunk. Removed the tar from the floor so we could see exactly what we have to deal with rust wise

anything from resto design needed - or is this all patch work?

how many hours are you estimating for this : )

she is gonna be pretty.

she has always been FINE in the dark : ))

jim

Question, are you keeping the black body color or going back to orange (my vote)?

no budget for PRETTY and this time - so it will leave charles city as hideous as when it arrived : ))

i'm torn on color - stock signal orange is probably the right thing to do - but i like silver, black, and various shades of orange as well ???

when it is time for paint - i'll be also facing a big bill for all weather rubber as well, and maybe front and rear fiberglass bumpers.

at this moment - i am leaning towards this look ...

jim

That's Blood Orange (Tangerine).

I like the look but it would be equally as cool with your stock color.

i'm coming around to agreeing with you on this. i like the painted sails and smoothed/painted top. tire size seems to make or break our cars from a look standpoint. thanks, jim

I have a set of wheels like that I will sell. Still have the original factory finish.

thanks : )
i have 4 lug fuch on both my cars
i think at some point i will go for fully polished

Hi Jim,

No one seem to be answering your question: Patch or replace the rusted sheet metal.

The answer depends on you skills with forming sheet metal and welding it to the good sections in the frame.

For my '73 restoration car, I bought a cheap sheet metal brake from Harbor freight and bent mild steel to duplicate rusted section of the floorpan. Welding it to the existing floor was tricky, but turned out well after a lot of grinding.

So from my point of view, patch and repair. Since replacement parts are SO expensive, I'm OK with less than PERFECT patches as they will be under carpet.

As for time required, it is hard to predict, but plan on A LOT! It will be done when it is done.....CORRECTLY!

BTW: your photo of the red/orange 914 worried me: the car's paint looked great but it is severely lowered and thus, SCREWED up the Suspension performance at BOTH ends of the car.

Please do NOT lower your car very much, EXPECIALLY with a V8 engine. The tall mass of the V8 makes the car roll more and exaggerates the limitations of the suspension design.

My V8 finally handles GREAT after years of chassis development going very stiff in the rear + swaybar....and it sits at 5-1/2" ride height, measuring from the under chassis "bumps"

Best of luck,
Terry

terry - thanks for those comments - behind the scenes : ) we decided to go with patches. i know some move the spindle location on the front struts and cfr offers a rear lowering kit as well - but for the street - too low is no good.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm#Raised Rear Pickup Points Kit

scott

now that is what i call progress : )

i am having serious withdrawls - yet - i am stoked (california speak for happy) knowing that this damn car is going to GO better than ever and STOP better than ever.

this 40 year old car, full of 40 year old parts - has finally had its long neglected physical and the doctor has prescribed a lot of long overdue medicine : )

i have dreamed about this car since i was a kid - i am gonna drive the shit out if it knowing it will be safe and knowing all rust issues have been professionally taken care of.

see pic of empty parking space - it is hard to look at each day : (

jim

I love watching a Scotty Fix It thread.

Zach

If I did another one, I would do a full roller engine. My first engine was tough to time (can't get a timing light in there) and the cam went flat in a brand new engine. Built a remote starter stand and then timed the engine and broke it in outside the car. Then installed it. So I would at least think about a full roller set up. It is much more expensive but you dont have to worry about breaking-in a roller set up engine.

HI Jim,

Bravo X 2 for you:

-1st for committing to doing the welding and patching work. From one of your pics
it is obvious you can do a very good job!

-2nd for NOT lowering the car , since I'm always preaching on how that screws up
the "used section" of the camber arc. Again, my track 914 V8 handles GREAT
with a 5-1/2" ride height (measuring and the under chassis "bumps")

So best of luck and keep those photos coming!

BTW: I am going crazy with my Harbor Freight POWDER COATING SYSTEM and recommend it to everyone. While I paid $65, I just saw a lower price of $60 for the system. Since I'm doing a lot of Fab Work, I find it amazing to spray and cure
a part with an indestructable coating and have it ready to use in 30 minutes. Before, like you, I was spraying primer, WAIT to DRY, spray color, WAIT to DRY and have it take a week before I could bolt on a part (while be careful to not scratch the still SOFT paint). Then after a few track days, the paint is chipped badly.

Powder Coating takes a bit of learning , but it's not a long process. Harbor Freight has Flat Black, Red, White and bright Yellow in stock. For an incredible range of colors and coating type, Google Powder coat.

Another choice would be using the services of fellow 914 owner and Powder Coater
Barry Gallitin in NC at diehardcamaroguy@yahoo.com ....From photos I've seen he does very good work.

Best of Luck,
Terry

i can't take the credit for the lovely metal fab and welding work : )



i am a driver : )

not a fixer : (

jim

Scotty, what did you spray over the newly fab'd metal inside the fender?

Looks like rubberized undercoating rattle can to me.

Primer, seam sealer, black paint, then spray can undercoating. Same thing on the patch I put in the inside.

now that all the RTV is gone - maybe i need to commemorate it : )

The alum 215 weight is about 50lbs less than an iron Triumph Spitfire 4 banger. In MI, theres a guy that did this to a spit!!!!! Sunbeam Tigers never had a chance, no hood scoops, no signs that it was other than stock.......... till he powered up. Bob

what - no new pics : (

per these charts - the sbc is almost twice the weight of a buick 215 - 575 vs 318 - and the porsche 914-4 is 265 lbs - so a 300 lb increase - that's it - no more passengers : ) except for carmen electra : )

so a sbc doubles the engine weight over a stock 914-4 but adds @ 200 more hp - and increase the overall 914 weight by 10% or so - seems a reasonable compromise.

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/engineweights.html

http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html

http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39353

jim : )

the nice thing about Porsche color Tangerene is that it can be swapped for Chevy hugger orange and its priced like a chevy color

if teh heads were not rebuilt I strongly recommend changing the valve guide seals now while its out and easy to do. they are VERY cheap and head removal it not required

Jim, 575 would be with stock intake, all accessories and stock exhaust manifolds.

Your aluminum intake removes probably 40lbs and your headers probably 10lbs. If you had aluminum heads it would be another 50+!

guess i could live with signal orange ???

Tell Scott to start spraying so we can see it by the party.

paint will be part of a to-be-scheduled phase 2, along with ...
body work
smoothed roof
paint
all weather rubber
fiberglass bumpers
polished 4 lug fuchs
vitaloni baby tornado side mirrors
late model doors
engman 3 piece inner long reinforcement kit
cabin heater - $199 - http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/640/10002/-1

Jim, I forget and I'm too lazy to look back. Are you adding any stiffening components to the tub while you're doing phase 1?

i was thinking about having scott weld in an engman inner long 3 piece kit but this was pushed onto phase 2. thanks for reminding me - i will add it to my phase 2 list above which is getting longer : )

I've got 1/3 of the Engman welded into mine but....my phases are kind of running together (and taking really long, I might add).

This is great for you getting so much knocked out in one shot. Can't wait to read you're back on the road!

Aluminum heads....50 lbs savings...hmmm.

Wonder if you could do a head swap without removing the engine.. . .

You could lower the engine down at the front and do it, but then your dead lifting 60lbs of cylinder head... each head..

Instead spending the 2 hours to remove the engine/trani would be the way to go..

I hate when the logical answer is not instant gratification.

gear stack pic

my plan is to ...

delete 1st gear - block it off.

2nd = stock F

3rd = flipped V ( equal to using an R )

4th = ZD ( move ZD from 5th to 4th position )

5th = H flipped ( as overdrive )

Jim,

What kind of RPM do you expect to see @ 60-70mph cruising in 5th with that flipped H?

Of course that also depends on tire size, which you're relatively close to stock IIRC?

according to this chart - using 205x50x15 tires - and HA gets

62 mph at 2500 rpm - vs - 55 mph for stock ZD

and

74 mph at 3000 rpm - vs - 66 mph for stock ZD

my tires are 195x60x15 - slightly taller - so speeds will be slightly higher if i was using a flipped HA and higher again due to i will be using an H

jim

Jim,
I just run an H and the gears feel just right, with 16" rims with low profile tires. Will you have a higher ratio for 3rd and 4th than stock? It seems like your going have about the same hp and torque and as I do.
Mark

PS I was going to do something similar with the gears but evil talked me out of it.

with stock gears - i feel that 2nd 3rd 4th just wind out too fast - so the plan was to replace 3rd and 4th with one gear ratio centered between 2nd and 5th - and then add H as more of an overdrive for highway use.

since this set up does not require buying any extra gears - i figured it is worth a try in my 225hp +- car.

Throw some 285 35 18's on there (aka 25.9" tall), that'll help wind it upslower

I just did a couple of runs today and it really felt good. 3d gear was very nice and I had some good good power from 40-85mph.


And also why get rid of first? I use it all the time when for some reason im having a hard time getting it into 2nd..