More work on getting the oil leaks dealt with. New viton valve cover gaskets and viton push rod seals. Along with some Gasgacinch for good measure, it really didn't want to stick on the painted valve covers so Cary blasted the paint off of where it seats and will let it set up for a few days until we get back to the shop to get some more work done.

Have not been able to find to many photos of the micro-squirt components installed on a 914 so I will try and get them documented here for my 1.7 engine.

I am going to do a little cutting and pasting from the Dub Shop on this rather than trying to relay the same info:
CLT sensor (Coolant temp sensor)
The reason it is called a coolant temperature sensor is that it is actually a GM sensor for measuring coolant temp on a water cooled vehicle. Since our VW’s are air cooled we will be using it for our head temp sensor. This is the sensor that will tell the computer when the engine is cold and when to activate warmup enrichments etc. It is the single Brass lug with a flying lead. I like to place this on the hot cylinder #3. The cylinder head tin bolt works great. NOTE: This is not an actual head temp sender. It will run approximately 50% less than actual head temp but will provide the temperature curve for hot and cold starts as well as the proper warmup enrichments.

We did put the stock Cylinder Head Temp Sensor in its place to plume the hole but I don't think we will be using it. Any advice you have would be appreciated

We started mocking everything up so we can get the wiring, fuel lines and vacuum lines set up. We will have to take the throttle bodies off to put the engine back in the car.

Fuel Rail on the Injectors in the Throttle Body on the Intake Manifold

There is a retainer for the injectors that all slides in to a groove at the top of the injector and bolts on to the bottom of the Fuel Rail. It took a little work with the dremmel tool to get them all the way on without forcing them out where they would not line up with the holes in the Throttle Body, but it was pretty close.
There is a throttle body fuel rail bracket that still needs to go on but I need to drill a hole for the bolt where it mounts into the intake manifold

O2 sensor installed in Triad Exhaust.
Dub shop:
Bosch LSU4.9 Lambda Sensor

Description
The newest generation of oxygen sensors are called wideband oxygen sensors. They provide a precise indication of the exact air/fuel ratio, and over the broadest range of mixtures. The Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor is a 5-wire sensor that reads oxygen in much the same way as a traditional oxygen sensor. but it uses the latest "planar" construction with a special two-part sensing element to measure how much oxygen is in the exhaust. The Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor has a response time of less than 100 milliseconds to changes in the air/fuel mixture, and reaches operating temperature of 700 to 800 degree Centigrade (1,400 degree F) within 20 seconds or less using its internal heater. This is nearly twice the operating temperature of a conventional oxygen sensor.

We started working on a mount for the Wasted Spark Coil Pack and the Map Sensor. We will get more of this figured out Tuesday night along with the position of the arm for the Throttle Cable.

Very cool set-up and work.

Enjoyed chatting with you this weekend. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank you. Cary has been doing the heavy lifting on the engine. I'm enjoying learning as we go.

Thanks Mike, you too. I can see more people wanting to go the Micro Squirt route but there is not a lot of info on installing it in a 914, so I started a thread to try and get some more install info collected for anyone else that wants to try it. If you want to add some of your installing info to that thread it may help. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2592977

After taking a few days to absorb the work we did last week I'm trying not to over think this deal. At times one feels there isn't enough info. But the more I read less is more. This Dub Shop kit seems to be Plug & Play, other than power to the Ecu and the fuel pump. In my mind I've been trying to run the fuel pump off the relay board. I'd like to keep the fuel pump on a relay and fuse. But with all the problems we've had with poor quality round relays I think I'll pass.
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At the same time I'd like to fuse or circuit breaker the power wires off the battery. I love the circuit breakers we've got from Tuthill for the rally cars, but they're a little a little to big. I'm still surfing the web. I want a unit that I can put in all cars. But it has to be sanitary.....................
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Short term I'll use inline ATC fuse holes.

Love this thread and FI set up.

Did you ceramic coat the Triad after welding on the bung?

Thank you
I had the Triad built with the O2 bung in case I ended up going this way. While you're in there right?

Spoke to soon ................
We'll need to install two relays, power and fuel pump. Plus build a ground and 12v harness. The MicroSquirt harness is primarily signal and control wiring.

Getting closer

OK....this looks "dangerous."

Onto to blending the 914 ignition cable into the MicroSquirt cable.
The Microsquirt cable is taped to the table at the approximate lengths. Struggling a bit with TMI. Some data says power the Hall trigger with 5 volts. Others say TPS and Map only get 5 volts. Then which sensor wire do I use. It give me 4 to 6 choices.

We're going with 12 volts. The Dub Shop says his is 12volt. As for the signal, we're going with the VR1+, pin #32. Still reading .......

Here's the final layout with the chassis ignition integrated on the right.
Waiting for the relays and new fuse panel to arrive Monday. Then onto 12 volt supply for the injectors and added grounds.
Note : Not using OPT 1 & 2, VR1 only for Hall.

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Next onto the crankcase and fuel line venting design. This is a head vented 72 1.7.

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I surely don't want it to look like an Octopus. LOL.
I'm thinking maybe a Tangerine catch can. With only the evap going to one of the air cleaners.

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Time to get Matt on the road. I'm back from Baja with a 1st Place trophy. Mission accomplished. On leaving yesterday I had Scotty install the new ends on the spark plug wires.
Here he is prepping the connector prior to crimping.
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He uses old school MSD crimpers, non ratcheting.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-170037/overview/

For the most part the day was a big turd. NAPA couldn't come up with the right front rotors for my Powerstroke.
But I did get my order of terminal blocks into their storage location.
Here is the one we'll use inside the D-Jet ECU box.

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After a 30+ day break I'm back to Matt's MicroSquirt install. We're making an attempt to kind of hide the 21st century components to some degree. At least the mondo wiring harness. So must of the wiring connections will be hidden in the old D-Jet ECU box.
The wiring of the box has begun. All individual components will be fused.
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We found one terminal block that would have eliminated the jumpers. But it wasn't robust enough.

Still working thru my sleep deprivation from the Mexican 1000 Rally, but it's getting better day by day. Up at 5am and can't wait to get back at it. I think I've been wiring since 3am in my dreams.

Nice touch

Here it is wired up ..............
The box is tall enough to allow for the wires to arc and dress out real nice.
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If we do a few more of these we'll have some stickers made to call out the fuses. Both inside and out.

After lunch we went after the prepping the engine for re-installation.
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Gave the fan a good cleaning at Rothsport with the soda blaster. Then Matt gave it a couple coats of clear. But don't forget the replace the timing marks. Both factory and the outside rim.
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After the mock-up was done I put some work into the ECU boxes. Painted it and then insulated the inside then added a rubber sheathing to help keep any water out of the box.
Starting to look like a V2 rocket (Mark )

Pulled the tachometer and sent it off to Palo Alto Speedometer (thanks Eric Shae for the advice) to get an upgrade so that it will be able to use the signal from the microsquirt. Now if I could remember what he said about needing a diode somewhere for some resistance Eric

The work continues. Installing fuel lines and fuel pressure regulator.
Lots of engineering along the way. We want to be able to replicate what we've created.
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nice, very clean and neat! Cary what kind of coating is on the Triad exhaust in the background? I was considering a ceramic coating of some kind to put on mine as well.

Phil.

I believe it's ceramic. We'll have to wait for Matt to chime in. Both he and Doug outsourced some items for ceramic coating.

Tuesday was going over the harness one more time before it goes into the engine bay for harness mock up. I'm making sure I have all the wiring I need to integrate the Innovate LC-2 into the harness, it too is going into the ECU box. This is definitely not plug and play. While I was doing that Matt was upgrading the fuel lines to SS and AN fittings.

I climbed up on the engine rack and extracted an engine ground off one of my engines.
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I'd like to find find/purchase 5 more to send out for plating.

Then I'm not real crazy about the evap lines going into the throttle body top. So I had Matt pick up some pipe thread taps so I could tap a hole in the stack plate. Should be Tight & Tidy.
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Then onto NEW parts. Matt bought a set of NEW Porsche Classic half shafts.
Installed the outer hubs and torqued them down so we can safety wire them today.
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That hub will be painted blue and added to the fixture bin. Got lots ........

Fuel line didn't arrive last night. So theres a change in plans. After a little shop housekeeping the engine is going in without half shaft and fuel lines so I can mock up the harness break outs and shrink tubing. I'm going to time it. LOL.

Few more of our new parts going onto the engine

Alternator and belt installed and adjusted. New alternator inspection covers back on.

Cary's handiwork on the evaporation line fitting and the dressed vacuum line for the throttle body

Engine in the car for harness mockup.

Fitting the air/fuel monitor/controller in to the original ECU box along with everything else. Ready with a plan for tomorrow. Adjust the wiring harness with today's fitment info

Love it! Going to be very tidy and stealthy all hidden in the stock cover. Great work, as always.

Really enjoying following this build. Great work!

My only addition for yesterday .............
914 Rubber's pre drilled CV bolts safety wired. Outer on the bench.
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I feel like I've wiring in my sleep since about 4am. Going over my connection and shrink wrapping plan. Over and over and over.

Earlier in this thread I have the before and after http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2491424
Here are some installed photos. I did black ceramic on the heat exchangers for maximum heat insulation and "chrome" ceramic on the Triad

I strongly recommend a dab of paint on the pulley part on the front and/or painting the top of the closest fan blade to the timing mark. Paint is cheap and weighs very little (in small dabs!), and having a timing mark that you can see even when the timing is off (e.g., the blade top) can make setting the timing easier by showing you how far away you are.






Why the insulation? Don't you want heat dissipation from the ECU in particular?

--DD

I like it. I actually have a white welding felt pin to do the blade with.

Do those new CV's have a gasket? If so, where did you find them? Tangerine was out the last time I checked.

Thanks Dave. Great idea on the paint.

The insulation was to create a better home for the components. The recommended location is not in the engine bay.one of the reasons given was because of the heat. The insulation is more to keep that heat out. I did preserve the vents on the bottom of the box though.

Got the tach back from Palo Alto speedometer yesterday with the upgraded chip to handle the signal from the Microsquirt. Beautiful job. And a new bezel on the front. Awesome. Now I am going to have to send them the other gauges to make them look as good.

On the back there is now an extra Input for a signal. I am told that the new chip allows for 2 different inputs so one is a backup. Now I just need to see what one will work for my new system.

Replaced the chrome trim on top of the roll bar that was scratched up by the worn out rear roof seal. The news strips went on easy and great.
Nice job on the part Mark I know that they were a pain to get perfect, but the effort was worth it in the end!