Welding looking up on rusty metal with a welder I've never used made things interesting . . . end result = crappy welds and car lit on fire (briefly, sorry again Pete!).

Dunno how you bridged the gap between the plate welded into the driver's side long and the brazed seam along the remainder of that long . . . not too shabby!

Engines I kinda know, welding, still learning. When I'm done with this, I should be okay:









Older pics, I am further along now, believe it or not . . . hopefully next spring.

I can drop that peice off anytime.

I wouldn't mind making some mounts for my turn signals some night over there. Think I know how I want to do it. Do they have any scrap sheet metal or even better aliminum plate of some sort?

no scrap sheet metal - we couldn't find any. it's pretty cheap stuff - if I can stop off @ Home Depot en route next time I will.

If you are nearby Lyndhurst could you drop it off Monday? That way we'll be able to work as early as Monday eve.

This thing needs to get done. I feel aweful that it has taken so long.

-pt

Yeah I can drop it off tomorrow. Do it on my lunch break.

how are the longs? are they done? did you guys put down the seam sealer and POR15 yet?

I'm not sure where Chris left off...I'm sure we could keep going on them for weeks if we could.
Next time we get it up on the lift, let's seal up them seams and finish POR15'ing. Maybe we could revisit more structural stuff once the motor is in and the car is running.

yeah..when i left there was really only one spot that needed some attention..so we will see next time

The underbody is secondary at this point and can always be done once the orange bastard (my new name for the car) is back on the road. No sense seam sealing/POR'ing spots that still need welding work. They can just be left raw.

Aaron - if you are available for the next session then great!

The car needs to be mobile enough to get it out of MovieTime's way.

You guys agree?

The car needs to be mobile enough to get it out of MovieTime's way.

You guys agree?
[/quote]
yes, engine only work till it's running. i'm up for tonight, tommorow et al.

are you guys doin all this work in Lyndhurst?

That is like 2 min from my house. IF you guys need some help turning wenches, let me know.

_billy

Billy - ya have space for another car @ your house?

...you must be a fast driver...I'm just guessing that Vernon is about 20 to 30 miles from Lyndhurst. Unless you haven't update your profile....

Car needs to get out of movietime's way, yes, I definitely agree. Are those longs almost done? No, not even close. Get it driving and out of the way, but driving that car daily in that condition??

Been thinking a lot about this, and, its not my car, but Pete, you should seriously consider taking that car off the road and repairing it right. Seam sealers and patches of thick metal over thin do not make a rigid car. In fact, the thick metal attached to the thin makes things worse (believe it or not, thin flexes easily, thick doesn't, so when the car twists, etc, the joint between the thick and thin has huge stress concentrations = cracks). I'm sure you know some of this already, just don't want to see yourself get hurt in that thing. That car will continue to rust from the inside out in humid weather, and, there isn't a whole lot left in the longs right now anyway. Patches on the floor pan will suffice, but on the backbone of the car it simply isn't that great of an idea.

My suggestion for an "easy" and robust fix is to purchase the inner long kit that Engman makes, pull the interior, weld that in, drill some holes in the longs, flood them with rust converter then POR 15, and finally weld on the outer clamshells. While not a "clean" repair, it will restore rigidty to your car and make it safe to drive for probably as long as you own it.

Sorry for the nagging, but again, I feel that car isn't safe even for non-autocross situations.

Prob. not gonna be able to make it up that way for a while, good luck with the engine install!

-Chris

Yeah I think the inner long kit is a really good idea. Really good idea and would be way fun to do.

I dropped off the fan housing earlier while on a staples run. I'll be in the area all day so I can stop by for moral support but they made me put on my networking hat for today so I am gonna be constaly busy. Got to make a 400foot run by the end of the day. I am in cat5 and repeater hell

opinions respected.

ive got the long kit here uninstalled, ill bring it by and show you if youd like, i know that rich wanted to see it too

Thanks Aaron. It would be nice to see the kit.

Got the rest of the sheet metal & fan housing on and in place, exhaust headers in place, fixed a couple frayed connections on the wiring harness (good catches Richie). Next up will be to get all the wiring connected, then the manifolds, FI, etc.

I see the light at the end of the tunnel.

-pt

I wish i had room at my own house for all the cars that i own! Would love to help you out if i had room though.


Yeah havent really updated it bc the 914 stays in Vernon for now at my moms house. Im living in Passaic with the gf and we dont even have a driveway, not that i would keep the 914 outside in a driveway in Passaic.


SO are you guys doin work in Lyndhurst or what?

the link to my car!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=60767

We've been doing work in Lyndhurst but (and a big BUT) the shop who's been kindly/generously/hospitably tolerant of us needs the space back b/c their work schedule is ramping up.

I'm interested in the shop that did your rust repair work. Can you describe the work they did? And if you are willing to say, how much they charged for it? You can PM me if you don't want it advertised or there's always the "I'd rather not say" which is perfectly accecptable too...

-pt

....you could park it in a driveway in Passaic...just not for long...
I grew up right next door in Clifton.

im right on Paulison. I wish we had a driveway at least, then i wouldnt have to worry about getting a parking spot and the stupid parking tickets every now and then.

...interesting place not to far from your place...

Stable Energies

stable energies, very nice guy, races a 914 so he knows them well...he does great work but can be pretty pricey...most porsche only places will be like that

yeah...he's like $110 an hour for labor...way outa my price range.

Hmmm, makes me wonder if I could offer Gary @ Movietime a few $'s for his time...

...couldn't hurt to ask

yeah i have heard that these guys were close to me, but it seemed that everyone i talked to had no idea where they exactly were and no one could remember the name of the place. NJ 914 myth i thought it was.

I needed the round air filter for the 1.7L...Porsche wanted $75. Stable Energies had it for $15. It was probably sitting on the shelf there for years...

nice! i will definitly have to look for stuff from them when i actually start doin some stuff to the car.

Anyone wanna help with a brake and turbo tie rod install?

Are you talking about removal of old then install new brakes/tie rods? Old parts have a tendency to not want to come off. Brake pads only? or calipers, rotors, lines, etc.

Leo has turbo tie rod ends on his 914, he might have some insight. I've done brakes more times than I can count but I need to get my car out of MovieTime's way before I can volunteer my time elsewhere...

-pt

I do...I do...

Let's get some lift time over at MovieTime...Pete's car should be cleared outa there in another week or so...if all goes well

Missed a good show this weekend:

http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/typ.../AACG%20091706/

3 pages of pics. You can see the tricky bus and Leo's 914 in a few, Todd made it as well but I think I pulled out the camera too late.

Well, a good show if you like VWs.

-Chris

yeah, i have new rotors, wheel bearings, pads, 19mm mc.

DO i need new lines as well? not too familiar with the car being i havent worked on it really in like 8 yrs.

Ordering the mc and the tierods this weekend so they should be here sometime midweek next week.

And then the end of next week i will be ordering my wheels and tires for it and off i go!

Any insight/ help would be greatly appreciated with some beer and food of course.

_billy

I'd think about getting new brake lines - the ones that go to/from the mc as they sometimes don't want to come off w/o putting up a fight.

I've been avoiding putting on a new m/c for just this reason. Wheel bearings and rotors - put them in the freezer the night before you go to install - they'll slip on a whole lot easier.

Richie (nycchef) recently did his mc & brake lines. Maybe he has some insight on that process.

Sounds like you are going all out. Nice!

-pt

well if i wanna drive the car the way i want to i want to make sure that it is all goin to work when im deep in the corner. + ive already spent myself out of house and food, so i mine aswell finish myself off! haha

So before we go ahead and have yet another install day i want to make sure that i have all the parts and everything is ready to go.

I will have to get the lines that you speak of just incase. and i will need to order up my wheels and tires mounted and balanced. This way we can just put the new stuff on when we take the old off.

I would bve happy to help when time permits. Brakes - suspension - power in that order. Sounds like you are going for the important parts first. I would also advise keeping the stock M/C if it is working. The larger will reduce the travel of the pedal. I like to have the option of how much brake I apply. The 19mm is not needed IMHO. Try a fresh set of brakes before you make the purchase.

ok, i will try that first.

I've actually gone in the reverse order, but im not driving the car as of yet so it really doesnt matter.

I remember slightly there being a pool of fluid on the floor, but i dont remember if that was from the mc or me doin something on the inside of the car. The guys at Powertech said they didnt see anything leaking so i guess the stock one is fine.

i.m back isp down for three days. nothing that 3 hours on the phone with new dehli couldn't clear up. wgat is up for thurs? my input on brake lines is test them well before doing any worki. best method is let leo drive the car. if you still have brakesa after an hour they are fine.

...just wasn't the same without you Richie....

Tentative for Thursday night...I'll know better tonight.

I'm not sure who was looking for heater hoses but I remember someone was asking about them. Check this out:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=59483

that would have been Richie....

In that case never mind. There's no way of him to get heat until he puts on heat exchangers that don't resemble barbed wire...

i have a set of SS heat exchangers that are just sitting now that i have the new motor and such with no heat in the car. if anyone needs a set.

Richie is in need of a set. I think he had a line on a set of non ss exhcangers but the ss set would be much better...

-pt

I also may want them

Need a rear swaybar???

Do ss exchangers allow more flow than non ss? If so, ss might better handle your larger valves...

-pt

...if you don't visit Mrs. K's birthday threads, I'd like to mention to all NEWrenches...Aaron is 20 this day.

So happy birthday to Aaron, and may he have many more happy years welding our longitudinals...and other miscellaneous rusted 914 body parts.

Happy B-Day!

Nice catch Ray!

HAPPY B-DAY AARON!!!