Funny you say that because yes, I will have to add to the valance not the rocker.
I kept measuring the back of my flares and couldn't fiqure it out why it didn't match up. So I left it off until I get that taken care off.

Marty says his valance is perfect and I believe him. I went with Marty’s valance as the rear index point for the flares. The Getty rockers I got when lined up on the ground are shorter on the left side by over 1 inch. The right side fits perfect. I centered my flares over 8” 16 factory Fuchs in the front. I have seen a lot of cars that look tight on the left front forward edge. Not saying yours is one of them. Someone showed a very nice black 914 and it was that way.

I am very excited about you finishing your car.

Bob

My flares are not mounted in the factory location, I measured mine against Qarls. Instead they were mounted over the center of the rims which I feel is better as the front flairs on the factory fronts dont give you much room forward for tires and rim options.

your cockpit looks ready for flight

I can relate that fit and finish is very time consuming...

nice work!

Absolutely incredible car.

Click to view attachmentChappy...keep your eye open for that BAE orange inlet (air suction) hose at high boost levels. On a recent prototype (BMW 335) we noticed that when we used more than 4 inches of flexible hose (1/4" wall) it ran fine... until over 15 psi boost at anything over 5,000 rpm. It would collapse on itself and actually turn the engine off ! So the kit is only made with mandrel bent 3" tubing, and hose only in short joint sections.

On the MSDS rear valence, our master jig is totally symmetric from L to R and R to L. The parts can only come out of the form this way. The master part was also originally cloned off of an original oe (narrow) rear valence, and formed by myself and a master panel beater. When I installed my rockers, the only supplier was A-I-R. I went thru a dozen sets of rockers and not one set was on the money. I picked the best set, but still needed to cut, fab, and match to my car.
The shop that did my GT fenders does restorations mostly on rare Porsche race cars, 906, 917, 935, 962 , IROCs and GTs. I never asked him where he centers up fenders, proll'y because of his experience and good craftsmanship on GT fender work. Although he did tell me to buy the rockers and fit them BEFORE he would paint them
Marty

Marty I dont know who was responsible for mounting my flares But I am sure your valance is right on, and my flares are off.

Marty what hose are you referring to.

That would be the larger dia orange color hose coming right off the top of the CIS (draw tube) going into the compressor inlet. You're proll'y OK up to 14 psi/ 6,500 rpm. Over that, I would look into making that junction out of metal.
Marty

I don't mean to doubt (or hijack), but I'm confused. I thought that the suction (feed to the turbo compressor) was the blue hose just under the air cleaner. Then, air would be sucked into the compressor, compressed, blown into the inter-cooler, and finally ends up in the orange hose just above the throttle plate.

Please explain. (un-confuse me please)

BTW, the car is looking great (again)!

I dont understand it either. My plumbing seems sound to me.
Marty might be thinking about my old setup with the BAE stuff.

That's it Chappy 'ol friend It was your older jpeg that I was referring to. The Starbucks just kicked in and I realized that you changed up to the 930 CIS delivery system...good move. I'll continue to use the 930 system, till my new blowers are compromised by the flow restriction . I'll then go with Motec and dining on TopRamen for awhile
Marty

Marty your going to push that monster till the damn thing can fly to the moon...

I am finishing up with the little things now, the windshield will go in tomorrow then I should be close to getting it on the road.

Are you two tempting me to try my hand at going turbo as well? I do have a tub that I'm working on, and a 3.3 930 motor sitting around.....

Gee John whats holding you back...join the club....

...You ain't done yet ?
Marty

Vey nice I want to here its been started.....

Nice work!

Trying to get that windshield to lay flat, bottom corners want to come up a bit, I have lost feeling in my thumbs trying to compress the Butyl. The glass looks even all the way around, about a 1/4 inch gap.
I am using a heat gun to warm things up a bit, but I have had a really tough go of it, been at it for hours.

I have the Plinkington XXX OEM glass which is suppose to be the best out there.
how far below the clips should it sit. Mine is just below the clips top edge but the glass corners are floating just barely making contact with the Butyl.

i can swing by if you need more thumbs, i'm just about done for the day.

ring my phone if you want help!

paul

From what I've heard windshields are not easy. Maybe it would be worth having it done by a pro, hate to see you crack that windshield. I've got a new one sitting here and I've decided to have it installed by a pro.

Yep... Cracked mine putting it in. Pushed down on the corner and bam... I thought I was being super careful too.

The Pro's will only use Polyurathane. I am heating up the garage to Florida temps use the heat gun and continue on, I know I am close and my even have it good enough.
As we all know these 914's arent perfect I may have compress it a little to much on the top edge so if I can get things warm enough maybe it will rock down a little on the bottom.
Paul I am picking up Ollie from work now, swing by i will be back at around 3:30.

Chappy,

Are you going to have a local "Starting the Beast" party when it's time to fire that thing up? I know we're all anxious to see that thing come alive. Let me know if you need another set of hands as I could run over this evening.

Chuck

Paul came over and we worked it a little, but i am too burnt out to go on tonight.
I need to sleep on it then tomorrow hit it with the heat guns. If I can compress the Butyl another 1/16 of an inch along the bottom edge and half ways up the side pillars I think the windshield will sit down low enough in the corners that the trim will go on without a problem.

The gap all the way around the pillars is a pretty uniform 1/4inch and the windshield doesn't interfere with the clips, there is space between them and the windshield edges. in the lower corners the top edge of the windshield is flush with the top of the clip, this I would like down another 1/16th.

I would hate to remove the windshield and start over as the thing is really centered in there nice. If the Polyurethane allows you to fudge around and set it easier i would of preferred doing it that way to begin with. I felt the reason for using the Butyl in the first place was that was the way the windshield was originally designed to be installed, for reasons of it allowed some give.

Another thing we noticed was the dash to windshield seal may be keeping it from going back enough.

Just my 2c:

It looks like something is holding up the drivers side lower corner. The butyl does not look like the glass has compressed it. It could be the rubber trim or seal piece between the dash top and the glass.

My memory is a little vague, but the seal between the dash and the glass does not look like the piece I installed . . . it does look like it is holding the glass away from the butyl at the lower edge. I do not remember my piece rolling "under" where it met the glass.

3M makes windshield butyl in different thicknesses. If you end up taking the glass out, see if you can get butyl that is smaller in diameter than the material you used.

the odd thing is the gaps look nice everywhere other than the corners; as if the curvature of the glass is doesn't meet the arc of the car.

i agree, the dash seal is a question, and we discussed it.

also, the heated butyl presses by hand so the corners look closer to correct, but would recoil.

could/should we pull the dash seal and hope to get it re-mounted after putting it all together?

paul

The seal is a Pelican parts aftermarket part it dosent have the steel gripers. I agree with Paul in that the windshield compresses down but recoils back up so the dash seal could be whats pushing it back. I could use a little hook type tool maybe a angled feeler gauge heated up and spread or pull out some of the Butyl to allow more compression.
I used 1/4 inch Butlyl which is what everyone else has been using.

The thing is really close, just a little more and I think ive got it.

Yes that corner is high and is barely contacting the Butyl the last thing I am going to do is try to push that corner down......Craaaack. We will get it tomorrow I will post the results.

Hi Dave,

Setting the front windshield is a bitch. Here's my experience when I did mine.
I had a local shop come to my home to set it on a warm/hot day. The guy was experienced and said he would only install using polyurathane out of a squeeze gun. I was ready to use the butyl rope by heating in the over to get it sticky & soft, but it would not compress worth a darn. I then agreed with the guy & it was a slick and easy installation. The glass layed down into the groove and putting on the aluminum trim worked perfectly. I used a Siglia (spelling?) windshield which is a factory replacement & it fit perfectly. I was told not to use PPG's because they don't fit in the corners. I am happy with mine. Over the years no water leaks & no stress cracks from road bumps, etc.

Tom
BTW: Your car is beautiful & can't wait to get news of the motor being fired up.

How close to the windshield are the side trim pieces? I've never done one with all the trim in (usually have the sides and top out).

I don't think you will be able to bend the glass much (if at all) to fit the opening. You may have to work back to say the center of the windshield at the bottom and all the way down the side. Press gently, but firmly. You are almost there.

I assume that you are using the aluminum trim. You may not notice the differential in glass height with the trim in place.

Good luck.


P.S. The PPG glass that I have installed, fit ok. They may not be CW calibre, but they fit good enough for me.

The PPG glass would of been 200 bucks cheaper for me than the Plinkington, but had heard good things about Plinkington Classic triplex xxx glass as the best out there.
I would hate to try and take it out I will see if I can get it to fit with the Butyl, If I cant then I have no options than to do it over.

FWIW...I just had a PPG windshield installed. The quality is 100% terrible. Unfortunately the bubbles & imperfections weren't visible until AFTER the glass was put in and the tape on the edges was removed. To top it off, I had a car show the next day so I didn't have time to get a new one installed. I figure on Phoenix freeways it should be cracked and replaced in less than a year any who so I am not going to sweat it at this point.

In your car at this point, you are wise to pony up extra cash for better glass.

Oh yeah...ummmmm....your car is insane.

he didn't get ppg glass...

I took the windshield out this morning, do over.....

Brave Soul you are!

I know this. I was trying to give him peace of mind for spending $200 more than the PPG glass would have cost him by explaining my experince with the PPG glass.

Ok i had the glass guys out here and we did a dry fit, the Plinkington glass did not fit the lower corners it sat up too high. I lost all the feeling in my thumbs for nothing.
They ordered another Window and a PPG, we will dry fit them all on Monday. What ever fits will get installed by them.

I got my passinger window from BIGKAT today crated up in wood "NICE JOB" I can finish up the passinger door now and putz with other stuff while I wait till Monday.

I will post some pictures later.

SWEET!

Dry fitting a windsheild is scary! good work. Let the glass guys crack em! That way it's their dime!

Windshield is in. wasn't picky i ended up with a PPG with a tint stripe across the top. Not as nice looking as the Plinkington full tint, but it fits!

The old installer was from Belarus, he took care in doing a good job. I think I could of done a few things better if I had done it myself but it's in, the trim fits ok there are a few spots where the windshield is a little low and the trims not flush with the glass where i can peek under it.

Spoke to the engine builder about firing it up and timing it, he says bring it in.
I should have it on the road by the end of the week.

Things i've done since i was waiting for the windshield:

Installed the interior trim back on.(except backpad waiting till after the engine is timed)

Lotus65's mirror, and sun visors.

Rewelded tail pipe to fit and welded wastegate dump pipe.

Safety wired CV's with the evil ones (using a shaky picture for depiction.)

Hooked up heat controls and ducts installed engine heat shroud forced air duct.(may just install one for the other-side and fore go mounting the electric blower.)

Fitted front trunk firewall and cleaned up battery wires

Will start on the rockers and valance tomorrow, then I am done, REALLY!

mirror...

I would luv to be there when you pull up to the coffee shop where the lil winky guys hang out! There gonna shit!

can i tag along can i can i can i pleeeeeaaaaasssseee, can i, huh? can i can i, huh?!

Very nice job, I hope that you have an on-board camera for the maiden run.

So I load up the car on the dolly and head out to Johnson Autosports to start the engine and time it. I get there and something is hanging up the dizzy from rotating looks to be my coils, Damn I will have to wait till Monday. I was so hoping to drive the car this weekend.

That looks like the cockpit of an aircraft! Iffin' Paul hadn't already called shotgun for the first ride . . . .

Again, very, very nice!

Looks like your going to get to use that winter rubber afterall... Snow is a comin!

I think I have said this a few times in your thread but one more time wont hurt AWESOME car!!! I can imagine that you cant wait to drive that one.

I moved the coils up to the alternator shroud so I am good to go, I will bring the car in this morning to start it up and time it.

The coils were mounted on my firewall, I never thought of moving them as they fit, well the problem is the twinplug dizzy cap is wider and the engine was spaced down about a 1/2 inch before to accommodate my other induction system, I found the dizzy cap was pinched against the coils bracket and actually cut the rubber boot on one of the plug wires, lucky it didn't crack the cap $$$$. The coils are now in mounted a better place and I may move the electronic ignition over to the drivers side now to make the passenger side less crowded.

I will let everyone know how it goes..