that looks like a nice car!

I just did this same exact thing.
I got mine for a buck though...
The oil cooler seal and that entire system is the worst design I have ever seen.
All I can say is use pure water for the first five flushes.....lol
Eventually it will stay clean, but there is alot of oil trapped up in the head.
Bleeding sucks...run it...get it hot...jack it up, bleed while super hot...
drop car, run, repeat...
It only take one or two bleeds to get it all out, but if you dont get the air out it never cools the car down.

Have fun with that...
Did I mention that its the worst design EVER....
Got mine for my son also...he loves it.

Ours has a new clutch and a few other new items...so that is nice.
Wait till you look at the timing belt arrangement.......ugghhh and its every 30k...yipee.

Oh, front and rear main seals....those dont like new oil cooler seals...just boosts the pressure on the old seals...

Rich

PO had he main seals done so thats a good thing.

I was told run a cup of some liquid laundry soap with the first flush.

You wouldn't believe the list of things that has been done to this car recently.
There is 10,000 on the timing belt but i dont think it was ever re-tensioned.
The new recommendation now says 45,000 miles on replacing the timing belt, i dont think i will wait that long.

Glad to hear you have the problem handled. Nice car

Well after repeated tries last week to contact the shop and this morning, I went out hooked my timing light up to the engine re-orientated the dizzy till it found the crankshaft mark, found it was 1 tooth off, the opposite of what they thought .
looked her down and fired it right up, the good is the engine sounds great and is leak free, it took awhile to burn the oily residue shit out of the system from all of the previous oil leak messes, but once it did the exhaust blows clear. I ran it per spec at 2000 rpms for about 20 minutes and i will dump the oil, refill and after she has cooled down i get to go out and drive it.

Yeaaaaaaa
Congrats

Take your video camera, take a passenger, hell take me....I'll fly right up

Sweet

Ok, your 20 minutes are up. How did it go? Very nice I hope.

I had to run out and pick up another case of break in oil, then had to go to work. I want to wait till late evening to drive it so i can break it in right without traffic worries.

I'm so stoked to see this post! I'm coming down maybe next week to pick up a 928 block! I'll be over!

Car is very scary, even trying to drive it careful was very difficult for me. I am sure i will get used to in time, but feel i need a few more gears.
I had a hard time looking at the gauges and when i was i didn't like what i saw, I was boosting way higher than what i should of been since i set it lower for the break in.
I couldn't hear the BOV let go either. Everything is hooked up the way it always has been, and double checking it i find nothing in the wrong order. I will turn back my MBC further to see if that helps things.
I was at 14lbs in a snap. not sure of the A/R's but when i did look they were on the leaner side of my comfort zone.
The BAD news now, engine is leaking oil from the same areas as it was before, this sucks so bad, the shop has wasted so much time getting the engine built the first time and the second time now, i have waited over a year and a half for this engine to
get built right and it looks like i am back to square one. I could drive it sparingly for awhile and mop it up after every drive, or i pull the engine and ship it out to Henry at Supertec to fix right and hope i get it back to enjoy the Fall season.

Anyhow it was fun driving the car but am very disappointed with the shop guys right now.

I am going to drink a few Benders now......

At least you got to take it out. I feel your pain buddy. Is the oil coming from the area you mentioned shere the return fitting connects on the block?

No it appears to be leaking at the heads and cylinder base to case. Its wet but not really dripping that much. i would say that left overnight i might find a quarter sized
spot on the floor in a few places. In a short time it will probably get worse. For now i am going to drive it a little, turn the MBC back to zero and go from there.

The guys at the shop really have let me down in not being able to get the engine sealed up I will talk to them about it but i dont expect much. He told me if it doesn't seal up this time it's because of the parts and there wasn't much he could do about it.

The damn thing is way more powerful than it was before and i was having to baby it just to hold on. The rear end push is crazy and how the hell are you suppose to keep the RPM"S down around 4 and 5 thousand when the thing jumps there in milliseconds, I found myself having to push in the clutch and letting off the gas.
I definitely gave it the MotoMan break in drive technique.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Are you ready to try Yamabond? Worked for me... That car sounds scary fast!

was that not your goal?

I think i have the Boost issue resolved. I use to run a 4lb spring in my old wastegate and had my MBC set at 8lbs and my new one has a 10lb spring. i didn't reset the MBC so that accounted for that!

I set my pressure for the 7th injector down to 10lbs. i shouldn't really even need it
because my fuel distributor can handle the fueling without it. I had had it set up over 14lbs in case of accidental boost creep.

I also adjusted the boost retard down a bit to better control the power during break in.

I need to re-calibrate my LC A/R sensor before i trust the readings i was getting last night.

After i get a few miles on it i am going to drop the engine to adjust the valves and fix the leaks myself.....

My initial impressions of driving this car is be very careful and lots of respect, the RPM'S jump so fast
It felt like i was in 3rd when i was in 5th and i had to keep checking because i couldn't believe i ran out of 5th gear that fast even taking it easy.

Ollie doesn't know i drove the car last night and i plan on picking him up from work tomorrow in it. If you guys could only see his face when he sees me pull up.

I'm sitting here with a big grin just thinkin about it!

it's gonna be great!

I wish I could be a fly on the wall when you show up to pick up Ollie!

Where's it leaking? Was the engine slapped together without sealant, or what? I'd push for some dirko or yamabond/threebond. Never put an engine together without it.

I just got back from driving the car for about 45 minutes, the leaking appears to come from someplace higher than the cylinder base gaskets, before the base gaskets leaked all the time even when sitting. I dont think they are leaking from there like before, the engine wasn't terribly oily but was still wet but it didn't take much to clean up.

A/R's look good now, Boost wastegate was letting go as it should the BOV was letting go as it should. i did dial back the timing with the boost retard but the car was dragging so i put it back to 0 again. It is very hard to keep the RPM's down the below 5000 when the boost hits, i was able to keep things around 4000 most of the time going up and down the RPM scale pulled a few times over 5 and once it jumped to 6400, i couldn't stop it.
The car was running on the hot side most of the time, it sat around 240 and would come down to 210 but the boost was heating things up as i was accelerating and coasting on and off the whole time. I am waiting for my front oil-cooler fans and the temp today is around 90 so i dont think i am going to worry to much about it at this time.

I am having fun, but these first outings are always nerve wracking worrying about everything.

A fresh tight engine will run a little hotter until it loosens up a bit (as I'm sure ya know). When I broke in my 911 6 it got warm enough to buble the paint on the rear valance.

i didn't know, thanks for sharing....

Ollie was more than a little excited. As i Am.......

I don't want to hijack Chappy's thread (again...) but since you seem to have some experience with the YamaBond stuff, I gotta ask - can you get the sealed/bonded parts back apart again ?

For instance - the 'standard' recommendation for the 911 case and cam tower assembly is one of the LocTite anaerobic sealants which I know I can get back apart the next time.

But I've also heard that while the good news on the xxxBond products is that the seal is permanent, the bad news is that the seal is permanent.

How do you get the stuff to release for the next rebuild ?

Propane torch. It releases like lock-tite.

Any pictures or video?

How hot do I have to get stuff? There's a limit to how much I want to be waving a torch around a magnesium engine case...


of what?

Rich look here for all the answers.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=284737


Three bond 1104

Thanks! That thread has been bookmarked for sure !

Of chappy's car in motion with sound.

I really like driving the car again! This is FUN!!!!!

I plan on dropping the engine to do the valve adjustment when i get a few more miles on it then i will try to seal everything up better myself if i can do it without tearing it apart.

I will work on a video for you guys but i still haven't pulled the engine to red line yet...

if you are running a quality oil like Brad Penn or similar, 240deg is nothing. I have worked with circle track cars and even my car has sustained 300deg+ temps. I watched a team run a Late Model car at 350deg temps for 100 laps.

If I run at sustained 300deg temps on and off during a track day, just change the oil afterward. My friend with a dirt car took the oil temp gauge out of his car cuz he just didn't even want to know how bad it was anymore and he runs it all season long at what I would guess is at least 350deg.

You are smart to not want to run oil hot - it isn't the best idea, I just want to let you know that under power it should heat up a bit and as long as you aren't clearing 300deg and sustaining you should be fine. If you drove that car every day and averaged 280deg I wouldn't even baulk at that personally. 240deg is a great number for general driving.

And as mentioned, 'til she breaks in a bit expect the thing to cook a little. Every engine I have ever broke in just cooks on the dyno under load. Cherry red headers are not uncommon on a dyno break in, even with correct A/F ratios and so forth.

Congrats on the car BTW. Nice looker for sure! I am guessing based on liter displacement and an atmosphere of boost (15psi) you are making in the neighborhood of 375HP give or take 25HP - is that what you are expecting? If so, 400 HP will feel like a rocket engine in that car. At ~420HP here at altitude my car (which is heavier than yours) is still fast.

At sea level and 525HP the car would literally jump up and bitch slap me when I hit the throttle It would literally feel like all Hell broke loose, then I would have to yank 2nd at 60mph almost as instantly. I scared the crap outta myself the first time I drove it - now I am so used to it that it seems completely drive-able and I would be bummed with less than 400HP.

edit - oh yeah, just go to redline. I personally never put an engine in a car and break it in - I put it on the dyno and break it in. 15 minutes of general running at around 2K rpm, then let her cool, fire up and at least three pulls to max rpm AFTER a few initial pulls to slowly higher rpm levels to check A/Fs, VEs etc and make sure I am not too lean or seeing detonation, so forth and to get timing right. So I put at least 6-8 WOT pulls on a new engine day one. I break in on the dyno cuz it is easy to tune and especially for stated oil leaks - it is inevitable that if I dyno, no leaks but put in the car it will leak every time

Thanks for the info, the engine has not been running over 210 the last few times i have had it out, I have a 7th injector enriching the fuel on boost so my A/Rs are rich enough now to redline it. I will go out and start driving it like it is meant to be driven. I just wanted to be a little cautious.

agree - be cautious until the AFs are right (like the test runs I do on the dyno), get it evened out and start running it. In fact, I would honestly recommend getting it on a chassis dyno ASAP and tune it there in a controlled environment where you can run at WOT all the way through 4th gear and get good AF ratio measurements. Again, do it is steps... WOT to 4K, check the values and tune as necessary. WOT to 5K... so forth 'til max rpm. Then after you see it running good up to redline, start tuning the timing 2 deg adv at a time and verify detonation and AFs, tune as necessary. Get it tuned on the dyno and you will know for certain what you have

I have to address getting clear stone guard film for the car. The few times i have had it out i have picked up some chips on the rear flares. The wide sticky RA1's on the front i am sure are the culprit.

I am getting an estimate from a shop near by to do the front edges of the flares the valance, headlight covers and hood.

I hope you are looking into Venture Shield. it is the best clear protector out there.

The shop i called in the neighborhood does the 3m product. i will check to see if there is anyone in the area that installs that also. thanks!

I just found an installer of the VENTURE SHIELD so close that i could push my car there.

My paint isn't nice enough to care but once it is I will be doing that too.

look at the rear fender... that is after only 4 or 5 track days The sticky tires really chuck the rocks for sure (slicks are really bad when hot of course)

Click to view attachment

I'm a little late, but: Big time congrats on lighting the candle Chappy.

Now, fix your little problems and drive the hell out of it.

Well after getting to drive he car a bit now i think i have the oil leak locations pinned down to the thru case bolts and head stud fastener area, So i used a little spray seal on the through case bolts to see if will slow things down some, until i get it fixed properly.

My stage 2 pressure plate wont completely hold on blast off it slips a little but that may not be a bad thing because i am running a 901 box still, the slipping may help with the torque overload.

I am also putting the headers back on to see if it will help in the mid top range. i think
the stock HE's may be restricting it some. When it gets cold up here i will put the HE's back on at the sacrifice of a little performance for heat.

The car is a blast and everywhere i go it draws a crowd, even the Porsche snobs at the coffee shop and the dealership had to succumb to the coolness factor and were wowed.

Man, you really did do a nice finishing job on that car I bet it does draw attention and is that nice pat-on-the-back after so much work

Be careful about the slipping clutch as a fail-safe... it is easy to "blue" a disk and then it won't grip for crap after that. Essentially you cook the outer surface of the organic disk nice and hard, so instead of having a soft, grippy interface it will not grab.

It is similar to the problems with kevlar disks - they are so hard they wear really well but slip much easier than an organic disk due to the harder surface (at least that is my understanding why they don't grip as well).

Hi Chappy,

Your car is beautiful You did the 914-world good, I can't wait to see in in the flesh.

I want to grow up to be just like you Chappy or Steve in FL.

Tom

Blizzy from what Qarl has told me about your car, yours is close to perfection...

The spray seal worked on the through case bolts on the bottom that i can get to.
Now just a little leaking from above, which i can assume are also the through case bolts under the shroud i cant get to now. When i drop the engine to do the valves i will see if i can get those sealed as well. So i consider this a small victory.
I removed the stock HE's and installed the headers and i was right, the HE's were restricting the engine from around 4200 up. The headers made a huge difference it pulls strong now no lag just hold on.

I received my oil temp fan switch for the front mounted oil cooler so i am about to install and wire that in, and i picked up some front slotted and drilled rotors for the bling effect. The solid rotors on the front are basically new and i know the slotted drilled are more for the bling than anything but i got such a great deal on them i couldn't pass them up.
More pictures will come soon.

If you ever dare drive that screamer in the rain, you will like the slotted rotors...

Your thru bolts should have an O ring (one use) under each nut & bolt head. I've never seen one leak. Easy enuff to check.......

I am sure the engine builder put the o-rings in there, but everything i have read says a little rtv should also be used on the washer that cups the o-ring. i was able to stop the leaking from the bottom ones with the Permatex spray stuff...