They can be found for much less used. DynaBrade also makes a similar one for less. BTW,What did you find out on the brake parts cost?

I found that the pound is $1.95 now!

They should be here at the end of the week.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...563/5825883.htm

Soda Blast wont remove the nasty seam sealer.
I just did mine and thought the blasting would remove the little I left , Nope had the body shop kid wire wheel the rest, as I was Done.

Yeah I know... Send him my way when you're done!

Stripped the underside rear of the tub to metal and epoxy primed.

First I used the Wurth "flail" to remove the old undercoating. This also removed the majority of original paint. The rest I machine sanded with a Mini DA and a few spots I used Starblast media (transmount bracktets and crossmember). Then some good old fashion elbow grease hand sanding and some solvent.

I removed all of the seam sealer where the inner wheelhouse/ quarter panels meet the floor at the rear. Needed to see if any issues were under there. None found.

I did leave intact the sealer where the shock tower pockets are. Just took it down a little to have something to bite into and tidy it up.

The Kent solvent kicks ass.

It's midnight and a knock at the door!

Who the hell is at my door at this hour?

Hey dude.... Whoa those came out bitch'n..........

What do I owe you?......A couple cold beer's!

It's nice when the Powder Coater is your bud! Price was right. 2 Stage Powder Coating rocks!

Awesome....printed on the side of a box of Porsche Exhaust Headers. Even the UPS guy had to take time out to read it. Way cool.

AUTHOR: Walter D. Wintle
QUOTATION: If you think you are beaten, you are;
If you think you dare not, you don’t.
If you’d like to win, but think you can’t,
It’s almost a cinch you won’t.
If you think you’ll lose, you’re lost,
For out in the world we find
Success begins with a fellow’s will;
It’s all in the state of mind.

If you think you’re outclassed, you are;
You’ve got to think high to rise.
You’ve got to be sure of yourself before
You can ever win a prize.
Life’s battles don’t always go
To the stronger or faster man;
But soon or late the man who wins
Is the one who thinks he can.


Now who can guess what brand they are?

Stahl
New York
Right?
I remember mine had that.

I recall that Stahl stopped making 914/6 headers although you are correct on the box. I got a kick out of the verbiage on the box.

The headers are George Narbel's (ERH) . I had them thermal coated and they shipped em in a Stahl box.

Jeff,

Something I've been meanign to ask...

Who makes this tram gauge?

It looks like something I could use.



Ken

Champ Frame Equiptment

Google "Tram Gauges" and you will find a host of suppliers

I was prepping a post and the lights went out! The site went down. It's like running out of MIG gas!

(Preview of next weeks board meeting:o)

Rt fender off. I new I had some rust at the top by the cowl. Not as bad as I expected. Fender was removed as a skin leaving the cowl extension intact.

The upper cowl extension will get cut out and replaced. Easy piece to fabricate.
I swear that piece was designed for Dzus fasteners!

The cowl itself is ok at the horizontal area but the side will need some new metal.
I used the Wurth "flail" to remove the sealer and take it down to bare iron.
The rear of the wheelhouse is fine no rust. The front of the rocker/ hinge pillar will need a closing plate fabricated. All in a days work.

A really good product I have used for years is Jasco metal etch. It's a little different than metal ready. 1st its more agressive and only has to sit about 10 minutes (the instructions says 1 minute and rinse) versus some other products out there. It is very cheap in comparison to others and I think does a better job overall because it is full strength. (3/1, 2/1 with H20 or full strength as I use it right out of the bottle)

This is an excellent etching product. What it does not do ......It is not a conversion coating as it has no zinc or phosphate. If you are repairing and going directly to epoxy primer Jasco is a great product. If you are leaving metal exposed for a period you may get some flash and probably should use a zinc conversion coating even on good clean steel.

I am not fond of conversion coatings because rust is rust no matter what color it turns.

Where can you get it

OSH, Lowes has it.....haven't seen it at HD.

Thanks
I've never seen it before but I'll go get some and try it.

Frazee paint store has it too

Cut the dead wood out of the cowl and cowl side extension.

Metal added was done in two pieces as the cowl has a step in it below the fender line. First piece in and then second piece on top just below. The weld becomes the step (really doesnt do anything)

Shaping this area is a tight squeeze in the bends. The front corner of the cowl has a little rust and I will do that separately with the hood off.

Make a template for the old rusty cowl extension. This is the top curved piece. The closing plate will be made last once everything is fitted.

Rough fitting the upper curved extension. Needs a little tweaking at the rear and a flange added.

Until Next time!

Where was I Eric?

Oh yes.

Finished the passenger side cowl repairs. Also repaired the drain trough and hood seal fence.

It started raining while I was shooting primer. Not good! Had to sit there with a heat gun to force dry the epoxy primer. Car is covered just do not like to introduce moisture to the equation.

Few things done during the week.

Right front wheelhouse

Nothing interesting here. No rust........Primer time.

Saturdays business

Front of the right rocker. I actually thought I would find more rust here than thought.

Cut out the old metal and put in some new...

More primer.....

Some porn for Shea!

Nice...

So, does water drain from the front hood seal trough out through the cowl/fender gap? While looking at mine I wondered if that cowl/fender gap was for water to escape when driving full speed.

Funny you say that. My left side has the outer fench that makes up the trough all the way back to the cowl. Right side had a gap of about 1-1/2 inches. The outer fence is actually part of the fender, the inner fence is made up with the apron.
My first thought is the right fender may have been replaced at one time. After removing all the coatings it was the original fender although a minor repair was done where it meets the door. I think this is where the rust came from. Personally allowing drainage off the side into the fender well is a good idea.

Anyhow I cut the fender off at the fence to repair this area and left the outer fence intact. Wasnt sure where to cut until the next step in body panels is completed.

Which leads to why I cut the fender in the first place....
The next saga in my build is holding to the weight plan. This is one thing I am really trying to not deviate from:

A friend who is the prop industry is letting me use his shop. I obtained the plugs which are an original set of full steel GT fenders that are on loan. You have no idea how hard it was to convince the owner to borrow these in the middle of a high dollar restoration his car is going thru now. The molds we made are done and will lay up the fenders in Kevlar reinforced Carbon fiber using epoxy resin. The Carbon fiber weave is 7 oz which is pretty thick so they will blow away any current fiberlgass part supplier out of the water and also be streetable.

People have asked why I am going this route? First is weight. Second is my cost to make my own GT fenders out of Carbon fiber are about $200 a fender thanks to access to a professional mold making shop. The last reason is all the glass fenders I have seen except for Sheridan are pretty poor quality. This is a bold statement to make but most of the glass part suppliers are getting top dollar for junk that requires so much re-working that I feel is just unacceptable. They are officially on notice now.

I can do better for less.

so are these a one time deal or are you gonna be taking orders in the future?

These are one off's. Sorry!

Ohhhhh... you've got them shaking and quaking in their boots now!

You make me laugh Eric

I have a question about your welding Technique, when you weld in a piece, do you first tack it in then run a steady string of tacks around the seam, or do you run a couple tacks then jump around? Btw your car looks great.

theo

Welding sheet metal is like Plate Tectonics. For seam welding a patch position and secure the part with tacks. This allows the patch to be adjusted if needed to for a tight fit which is key to a good weld. Then a series of quick trigger pulls to close it up .Sometimes I will get in a hurry and lay a bead. All depends on the part being welded, how it reacts to heat, how thin, cosmetic, structural, gun access etc. Moving around, starting and stopping controls heat at the zone.

Wait 'til you see him "live".

Tip your bartenders and waitresses...

Word has it around here you are a class act Are you tending bar tonight or the host?


To back up a bit to last weeks intimate conversation. Here are the spacers for using the late Carrera hubs (one inner, one outer on each side of the 914 wheel bearing). Easy enough? Rotors are also Carrera. Depending on going 20mm or 24 mm appropriate caliper half spacers required.

By the way you spelled Carrera incorrectly. Two "R's always come before the single "R". I just wanted to point that out you know. I am sure the bartender or host will volley back with a good jab just for fun. Thats getting back for the Kings Lad thing.

For everyone else (except Shea) more instruct'iones (aka specs)

Courtesy of master machinist Mr. Ira Ramin

Hey Jeff,
It was good talking with you yesterday. With a little prodding from Heidi I'm sure I will get your roll cage kit out before the deadline. As I told you - I authorized her to hit me over the head regularly until it is done. Here's what I found this evening when I came back to my desk, lol.

Carrrrrerrrrra...

Thanks Chris and Hedi,
That rendition is exactly what I actually look like on Sunday mornings.

Arrrrgh mate!

Jeff- Did I get the nose right??? I'm a stickler for noses....lol
The beatings have commenced!
hehehe

Close facsimile. Live life through humor and laugh at our foibles I say!!
Just don't beat Chris when he has a firestick in hand. It could get ugly.

Speaking about foibles................or sh@t happens.

When Shop Equipment Attacks[u]

Visualize an older media blast cabinet with old seals and 25 pounds of aluminum oxide media decides its time to relocate to another zip code at 100psi?

Yes it did happen and took me 4 hours to clean up the mess today. Aluminum oxide is technically not hazardous but aluminum dust is well quite the pyrotechnic ingredient.

In the middle of this mess my good friend pulls up in the drive way (ironically he blows stuff up for a living in the special effects industry) and see's me with the shop vac cleaning up. He reminds me of the aluminum dust issue and motors that use brushes (spark) and exclaims" no,no, no you need to sweep". Cleanup time doubled. Like I said sh@t happens.

This was supposed to be a week off for vacation and I end up cleaning the garage?



Yeah I know Shea is grinning. Like I said you just have to laugh at stuff. It happens. After the fact I laughed too, especially since I looked like the tin man in the Wizard of Oz wearing a respirator.

No prob, mon!
When you see him with one in his hand, let me know, will ya?
hehehe

Ut uh...

I would have kept using the vac. It would have been cool