nice job Jeff....

I would love to see a separate breakdown on those rear end bits and pieces....great ideas on there.

Rich

Rich -
You caught me after I took everything apart and put it away until I can take a bunch of parts to the powdercoater in one batch!

Basically the arms are boxed. Have Foleys pivot bracket and parking brake kit. For what Chris's kit cost it wasn't worth going buying a quality swaging tool, cable, fittings etc. to use it one time and his CFR stuff works. Elephant bushings. The wheel bearings are stock 914 Fag on Carrera hubs with a spacer to use the Carrera axels. The parking brakes I bought used from a 912 for $15 off the Samba. Only thing that was good are the pads, adjusters and backing plates. I bought all new hardware (springs, retainers, spreaders new). The calipers are obviously Boxster which these days make no sense to buy used since the price has dropped dramatically. The adapters came from Rich Johnson.

DID I SAY "Have Foleys pivot bracket and parking brake kit. For what Chris's kit cost it wasn't worth going buying a quality swaging tool, cable, fittings etc. to use it one time and his CFR stuff works".

Chris/ CFR always gets a plug from me.

This is all the small consumable parts I ended up buying. The arm modification is straight forward. Grind the bearing carrier down until the backing plate fits like a hat. Weld the pad stop on, CFR cable tube and relocate the cable anchor bracket.

Not at all. Its fun! Considering everything except the caliper adapters and CFR cable kit are off the shelf P-Car parts its really simple.

God gave to Nascar and he also taketh away from the Nasty Car guys and then put it my garage.

I picked up a used 4 gallon Patterson oil tank ridiculously cheap. Half a dead president cheap. 16 AN fittings, dual outlets, dual breathers and triple inlets. Came with a tank heater, two temp probes and a couple of monsterous mounting straps. A little wear but clean and no leaks.

Patterson is located close by at the Van Nuys airport so I only need to pickup a new o-ring. I may have them shorten the inlets and close one off.

I haven't clicked on this one lately. Very nice!

What the hell did I miss here? Jeff turned a pressure cooker into an oil tank?

43 Plymouth dash? Nope!

Got to make some room.

Thought about putting a Carrera front spoiler oil cooler but those things are really long at 21+ inches. Would not follow the body contour and would interfere with the bumper fit.

Standard Carrera fender oil cooler tipped on its side. They flow that way anyways.
The core is 13 x 7 x 2.5 which provides a lot of heat throw.

I will shroud the bottom of the cooler and leave an exit behind and under it since it has plenty of room on the backside of the cooler. Its 2 inches above the bottom of the floor well so it wont bottom on anything.


More welding and grinding to finish it off but you get the idea.


Never liked the idea of weather or oil cooler exhaust air going into the trunk.

The metal I used is 16 gauge. Would like to have a little bit of strength considering what was removed. Its tied into the floor where it rolls upward and across to each control arm reinforcement to just below the latch.

Funny I used to be able to grab the nose just above the hood latch and it would flex a little. Not anymore. That area is plenty stout now,

Hey its got a front end again. A little "R" styling for the oil cooler inlets. Will need to modify the spoiler ends to fit the flairs better later.

It has a rear end to ! Lots of work to do here.

Rear lighting. Bases painted and assembled.

Jeff please explain the second spacer that appears to go on the backside of the bearing/ SC hub ?? I got and installed the 5mm spacer that goes on the front side / wheel side of the hub to use up against the bearing to use the wider bearing SC hub . Thanks for any info on this setup.

Jack

Easiest way to explain: Using Carrera hubs and axels. The late 911 stuff uses a wider bearing. To use the 914 cartridge bearing the spacers simply make up the difference in width on each side to match the 911 bearing. The spacers are sized accordingly to properly space the hub in the trailing arm. Boils down to making the bearing cones wider while retaining the dimension of the 914 bearing at the race so as to not modify the 914 trailing arm at the bearing carrier. If you are going with Carrera axels you will need both spacers.

The rotors are a matter of choice and really depend on the calipers being used. I just swapped a buddy my Carrera rotors for SC rotors because Shea will bust my balls about the weight difference. Maybe he wont because he is so cool. When I decided to go with Boxster calipers can use either rotor.

I just went through some parts and have everything out. Let me see if I can take some photos to show the differences. Will add shortly.

Carrera axel and lug centric hub on the left with spacers installed.

914 bearing

914 axel on the right.

As you can see the axel stub shank is the same length for both the 911 and the 914.
The shank is the same diameter on both. The splines are different (one course, one fine).

The Carrera axel stub has a more defined step on the shank where the bearing butts up against it. The spacers are chamfered to accommodate this.

With the bearing and hub installed the offset would be incorrect. The spacers correct that issue to center the hub face so the rotors center with the caliper mouth.

Ok I gottcha , you are centering the Carrera hub in the bearing and using Carrera axles also. It seems a matter of getting the right parts with spacers to work around the 914 bearing size . Nice that these are available to source for differing setups. Thanks again for the info, somthing to ponder.

Jack

Unhappy with factory lighting and unsatisfied with the bulb output of the Hella R tailites had to take this to another level.

Sourced some dual output (running, brake) LED clusters. They were the brightest I could locate using red LEDS. Red LEDS with red lenses were the obvious solution since white LED washes the color.

Modified the Hella bulb housings and installed some standoffs to bring the cluster close to the lens. Because there is no side marker I needed the cluster to illuminate the lens from all angles.

The clusters are waterproof since they are dipped in epoxy. I let these run for 1 hour straight and they do not get hot at all. In fact they don't even get warm.

With the lights in the garage out these are really bright on both the run and stop modes.

The last photo is of the ceiling to show how much output these give off. Lit up the whole garage. This was a test with a single lamp on.
Very bright and I am satisfied.

Nice work Jeff. Nice to see some skin on it!



(you can install as many flywheels on your car as ye see fit. I'm just an innocent bystander)

Jeff, I'll need to source some of the hub-to-bearing spacers soon.
Are you still parking the chop top 911 in your front rec-room?
Marty

Jeff...any updates on your build ?
Hope your shoulder+ hand are doing better...I joined the sheet metal lacerated finger brigade as well
Marty

Jeff, I've seen this style tail light assm in 2 other builds. Are they available aftermarket? Looks good!

Been working on the 14 just have not been taking photos.

Honestly they are a pain in the ass to make. No aftermarket because I own the molds and masters.

I'm working

I'm working

I'm working

Really like my NEW blasting cabinet. Inexpensive, doesn't take up a ton of space like commercial units BUT will do everything a commercial unit does. MADE IN TEXAS/ USA and a well thought out design. Will handle larger size parts. So far I have used both glass beads and StarBlast media.

It doesn't leak like the HF POS!


A Plug for the Barrel Blaster

http://www.barrelblaster.com/

Added more lighting to the shop.

Quote: Eddie Murphy - "I can see, I can see! "

I have a first generation barrel blaster and been upgrading it for last 13 years. great blaster, great price and great manufacturer support. works better now than it did when I bought it. they are a great tool.

Funny that you ask what happened to Toppers parts.

A spoiler I picked up I had to enlarge the opening, center it (inlet opening was off on one side by 2 inches) and generally reshape it so its uniform.

Now the lower inlet and upper round holes are very close to the Carrera cooler size in sq inches.

The white gelcoat spoiler photo is before I made changes to it.

These are the rocker moldings I picked up from Toppers estate.

Stock molding in the middle used for comparison.

How rude of me

Seasons Greetings and other uses for a welding jacket.

Enjoying reading this thread. I'm psyching myself up to tackle the same cowl repair you did. I reckon it's going to be the most challenging job of my resto for my newly learned and limited fabrication and welding skills!

I'm using epoxy primer like you and was wondering what the Jasco Metal Etch was for?? If you're wire-brushing the surface rust off, isn't the surface roughened enough by the brush just to take the epoxy straight, without needing to acid etch aswell?

Can you also use the Jasco to etch the first coat of epoxy so you can get additional coats to adhere?

Cheers.

3M Metal Prep or Jasco is just phosphoric acid. Jasco is about a third the price and you get a bottle three times as big.

The acid is a good surface conditioner which aids in bite while also leaving beyond some zinc.

Wire brushing isn't enough to abrade the surface for good coating adhesion. Wire brush is good for post weld clean up.

what about a sand blasted surface jeff? would that be a good enuff surface to epoxy primer over?

Depends on what grit abrasive is used. I finer media tends to create a good mechanical bond. Generally the answer would be yes but a proper cross-hatch abrading is proven to be best in conjunction with a chemical bond such as Epoxy. Epoxy is sticky stuff but like any coating surface prep is key to a good finish.

Imagine blasting with 60-80 grit media then going right to priming with EP or surfacer. You would still have a zillion micro craters to "fill" to get past the texture in the surface. Sand it and shoot another coat of EP, or skim coat it with glaze, or high build primer, sand some more, etc etc. At that point the mil thickness is building quickly.

Anyone that has ever removed bearing races from 911 hubs knows there is any easy way if you have later hubs because they have a relief cut in the bore to catch the edge of the race. A flat edged tool is pretty much all that is needed. Its still the Captain Cave Man way because you will still damage the race rendering it unusable pounding it out.

I have the last year hubs before Porsche added the relief cut.

Conundrum: (Which is a great bottle of wine I may add). I'm replacing new races and bearing so who cares if they get destroyed right? The early hubs tend to get beat up with the flat edged tool no matter. The early hubs tend to get the shoulder the races seat on beat up. One burr or high spot on the race shoulder edge you will end up with hub that wobbles radially - NO BUENO!

The other issue I have seen with about 30 bearing /race replacements is if you end up with a burr or high spot and when installing the new races they end up galling inside the hub...again causing radial issues. Once this happens out come the new races and you start over again. Hopefully you don't have to purchase a new set of bearings with match set of races again. Seen it too many times to mention.

The solution: Correct tools for the job.

On the left: Race installation driver. Off the shelf tool except I had to modify it for the correct angle for depth. Have you ever priced out the German Bearing/Race installation kit? Its running over $300 today. My driver was $8 and three minutes of lathe time.

In the middle: Two old races cut and welded so they are a little smaller in diameter than the bore. These work perfectly as lapping tools when 600 grit lapping compound is used to remove any galling and square up the bores. After thought they also double as installation adaptors to seat new races in the bores.

On the right: A tube bending wheel cut down on a lathe to use as a race removal tool to press out the outer race WITHOUT DAMAGING it. In case of seating issues due to galling I can press new races out in 10 seconds and use them again.

I have seen so many hubs trashed or called junk due to galling in the bores. No more. Easily corrected to zero run out.

Pressing in the new races GENTLY. I believe a press is the only and right way to do this procedure....

Ready to go. Races installed. Bearings packed. Installed on the strut assembly. I also replaced the often neglected hidden O-ring behind the bearing spacer.

I glass beaded the hubs to clean them up. I also sprayed a light coat of 600 degree engine clearcoat to keep them from oxidizing. Baked at 200 and 400 with 30 minute cool down cycles in between.

I thought these were clear anodized originally. I was wrong.. some sort of clear crud was applied from the factory. It came off to easy for it to be anodizing.

Jeff,
Good tip on the front hubs...definitely will have these looked at by Mr. Alarcon my suspension guru.
Keep up the xlnt painstaking work !
Marty

The art of restoration.

The only parts that are new are the spreaders and spring retainer cones. Everything else including the shoes were glass beaded and finished. The brass star adjusters were glass beaded and then polished.

From rusty to perfect.

I deviated from one thing on Foleys 911 e-brake mod. I cut the return spring in half behind the spreader (since only one spreader is used) and placed a washer where the cable passes through to provide a little extra push on the shoe retract.

In process

I was called last night by my friend Victor Van Tres. (Showroom Stock Champion)

With a chuckle in his voice and a sense of urgency I was invited to drive in the 24 Hour Race of Endurance in Sonoma next weekend. Yes another 24 Hours of LeMons.

I respond with a return laugh of sarcasm what kind of Grand Touring Prototype knowing he only races Renaults and Peugeots?

Out comes its for TEAM PEUGEOT DADDY and the car is a 404. My brain starts firing and I'm thinking wow a 404 has four wheel drum brakes and maybe 60 hp this can get interesting and would be fun?

In the end I had to turn down the seat stint due to other plans.

A pic from the old team at Thunderhill. I'm still wondering how Victor obtained this fine stead?

Pre-fit the motor mount and burn it in.

24 Hours of LeMons/ Sonoma California

The Peugeot Daddy Team 404 actually finished the race out of shear pride. Even with an overheat condition and late hour multiple rod knocks, the Pit crew quickly went to work in the pits with pepper to quell the overheat, changed to 50 weight oil increasing film thickness extending the inevitable destruction of lower end. The tired 404 made it across the finish line after 24 hours. At the 23rd hour the lowly 404 abandoned its moniker French white flag to accomplish the impossible. The tired and weary drivers gave it there all to avoid the dreaded DNF.

Completion of strut #2

Installing inner bearing race

Installing outer race and pressure packing bearings.