Not chain
Belt. at the time of design it was the longest in history.

I sometimes miss my 928. Like everytime I see a Mustang being an ass and needed a whoopin.

FYI: Time to bump this thread. It's been awhile.

I purchased a set of 32 valve 5.0 pistons that have been fly cut for the euro "S" 16 valve heads.

As soon as they get here. I'm bringing them down to the machine shop with one of my 4.7L blocks. I'm having the block bored out and the pistons fit.

This is what the 928 guys call a Hybrid. It consists of the 5.0L short block with the euro "S" heads, cams, spyder, and throttle body. The engine will be over 10/1 compression and according the what I've read these engines fully dressed with A/C power steering, ect are 350 HP. This is a 50 HP gain over my euro spec "S" engine.

Am I stoked? Ya, i'm stoked!

You should be! Post pictures when they come in...

Holy crap Rick! That is going to be one crazy ride.

Your catching up, one of these days were actually going to get to drive these ridiculous things.

Giddyup!

I was shocked when DHL rolled into the driveway on Saturday with my pistons! Woo Hoo! They were playing catch up because of the snow storm we had on Friday.

I going to contact US Chrome in Green Bay. They bore 928 blocks and coat the cylinder with Nickasil. I won't need the Nickie treatment but they are at least familiar with boring Rynolds 390. I'm working in Milwaukee this coming week. If they can do the job I may bring the block and pistons with me and deliver the block to Green Bay. We shall see..

Time for an update to this long journey. Some my know I broke a head stud while attempting to prep my block for boring. Here's the link for that nightmare!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...83351&st=20 T

The the jury is still out deciding the fate of this block. I hope to know soon.

I discussed the block boring with US Chrome in Green Bay. They only do Nickisil and don't have the tools for the special lapping the Alusil blocks require.

So if I get the broken bolt out of the block I will have my local guy do the boring.

Not much to report except it may snow this weekend, again... may 2, and still crap for weather.

I've exhausted everything I can do to remove the broken stud from my spare block for now. Maybe the machine shop can get what's left out some day. I pulled the engine out of my car and tore it down. I found a galled cylinder wall and broken piston. After I dropped the valve in my 4.7 "S" engine, I purchased two used pistons and reassembled the engine. I think one of the used pistons I purchased was cracked or somehow damaged.

Click to view attachment

Here's the block.

Click to view attachment

I think this block can still be bored from 4.7 to 5.0. So, I'm back to extracting the studs. I have all but one removed. It's really stuck and I'm working on it slowly. If it breaks, I'm screwed. This is my last block.

Edit: up date: I just removed the last stud from my "S" block. I'm sending this one to the machine shop tomorrow.

I followed the broken stud thread closely. That was some pretty creative stuff. Too bad none of it worked; I thought sure tapping for a left handed bolt would work.

Glad you got that last stud out. There's probably an immutable law of reality surrounding the obstinance of the last stud or bolt to be removed.

I can't say the process was entirely flawed. It was a partial success in that I was able to drill, tap and install the left hand thread stuff. Where this failed was the size of the cap head. While trying to turn the broken bolt the allen wrench was flexing and eventually slipped and slightly rounded the hex hole in the cap head. I think if I would have drilled and tapped up to the next size I could have won. It was a good experiment and I learned alot.

I may still bring this block in to the machine shop and give them a shot at it but for now I have a block I can use so I'm at least able to move forward.

I was gonna vote that you go back ti drilling and tapping, just go all the way up the the inner thread dimenion of the hole.

Then, worst case is you run a real tap in there to clean up the threads.

Seems like there is a material mismatch between the type of steel alloy and the aluminum that created a pretty stubborn connection.

Rich

Alien update. It's been awhile.

I still have a block at the machine shop. They will be boring it out from 4.7 to 5.0 With my 300 hp euro spec "S" heads and spyder this is an easy 50 HP gain.

The used pistons I purchased were not the best, so I have been searching for better ones. I just received 5 more used ones from another great 928 guy. I dropped them off at the shop today. So with any kind of luck I'll have a block in a couple of weeks.

Stay tuned.

I think we've been abducted or are in some kind of time warp...

Ya, kind of like an episode of the Twilight Zone....

Funny, our threads have a zillion views and neither of us have a car that runs. Ha.

OMG! Sandy and I are LOA's OFF Hey!

Okay... I just read throught this entire thread. A 'normal' person might ask why would anyone put themselves through something like this. And the mere fact that they have to ask that, is reason enough why they will never understand. I fully "get it". Keep up the good work. Your perserverence will pay off, and we will all rejoice.

Mine runs. Sort of.

Is the midwest some kind of black hole for mutant 914's-

A your 928 powered car.
Chappy's amazing flat 6 turbo.
Bill's LS1 v8.
My turbo type IV. (sure, you can't turbo a 914, yah right)

Hmmm...........

I'm going to pour oil into mine this weekend and turn it over to check the starter/adapterplate/ring-gear combo and to make sure the oilpump gets primed. I may beat both of you

Just an FYI: I see Paul is getting closer, and chappy has his car running now, so I'm feeling kind of sorry for myself. So, I went to the machine shop to see if my block was done. It ws bored out from 4.7 to 5.0 but I still need to have valve reliefs cut in 3 pistons. I'm getting closer.

ottoX914, cool project!

4.7 to 5.0 ? It's hard to belive that there is that much material in the block to open the bores that much. Dem gonna b big pistons!

I have no idea what you're takin about...

Well, there are 8 of them...

4,7l 97x78.90
5,0l 100x78.90

3mm overbore - call it 0.125"

The 911 went from 2,0 to just shy of 3,0 before they needed to increase the cylinder stud spacing...

Ya, it's alot. My machine shop guy was freaking out watching the boring machine cut the Alusil. He said he had to set it up and walk away while the machine was running.

3mm = 0.118" in diameter, which means wall thickness is decreased 1.5mm = 0.059".

We just had another hail storm here last week. Needless to say I am now up to my ass in work again. I honestly could see the light of day before the storm. Oh well, I guess there's worse problems to have.

I spent as much time on the engine as I could today. I needed a mental break and this was a nice diversion. All the studs were removed from the block by the machine shop with one of those stud extractor tools that crush the threads where the nuts thread on to secure the ladder. (the ladder is the bottom half of the block) I started to run a chaser over the damaged threads. After trying a couple of the nuts on the chased threads I could still feel the damage on the threads.

I decided to remove the studs from a junk block I have. I use the double nut method and heat the block to release the locktite. This took about 3 hours. So, I still need to chase the locktite left in my new block, but I hope to have a short block by the end of next weekend.

BTW: I still don't have my three pistons back from the guy that is supposed to fly cut the valve reliefs.

Dont ya hate the waiting kids......... Me and millions like me want proof of the Alien's existence only then can we be sure it is amongst us.


Project file#914-Alien- X file.....

Damn good to see YOU finally working on the car again.

I trimmed up my fenders today...laid out a box beam for the tops of the fenders...then roofed the house a bit more.

Looks like two more bundles and I am DONE....yipee (damn tall ass house...what were they thinking)

Rich

I'm on roofs everyday. Some of them make your stomich flip. No work today. But heard from the guy I ordered parts from. I think they are near ordered now. No time to call the guy notching my pistons... I just had 10 more claims come in while I was typing this.

90% of my parts are here. I brought my crank in to have it checked for straightness and have it polished. I was concerned about the crank after dropping a valve and cracking a block. That's alot of pressure and force on the crank. It checked out fine. I'm waiting for three pistons to be notched. The machinist promised saturday or sunday this week. He works a day job and does custom balancing and custom machining part time. The head gaskets and head studs are shipped.

tick tock tick tock...let me know if you'd like a hand up there in DLH. I am a good light holder and tool gopher. Hell...I'd probably just get in the way. LOL

Ok, the Crank is in the block and four pistons are in. I'm still waiting for the shop to notch 3 pistons. I have a few more things I can bolt on like the water pump and flywheel. I need my pistons now.....

Man I love the 928 engine. It is just pure art and DAMN sexy.

I guess I should post an update. Turns out I have a broken cam. The cam has a long bolt that threads deep inside the cam. The cam cracked and the stub rotated causing the cam to be out of phase. This caused the valve to collide with the pistons and cracked the block. Not seeing this problem I tried to build a new engine. I bolted on the broken cam and destroyed a second engine before the thing even started. If I hadn't caught this I would have has a third broken engine.

These are unobtainioum euro "S" cams. The best price I found was 950.00 for one cam and I have to wait for it to be cut. I tried to send a US cam and my broken cam to Berry Cams here in MN. I talked to Scott the cam guy about welding and re-grinding the US cam to match the "S" spec. No dice.

So I just got the cams back today. I'm bringin the broken cam to the machine shop on Monday. I'm going to have my "S" rifle drilled and threaded. Then I'm going to have a new stub made and thread it back into the cam. Fixed! I hope.

Here's a photo of the cams. Notice the hole in the end. There is a long bolt that holds the Sprocket on the cam. The threads start back inside the broken cam about 1/4" So there's plenty of threads inside the cam for the sprocket bolt after the rifle boring and new stub is threaded on.

Click to view attachment

The cam on the left is the "S" cam. Notice the long duration.

Click to view attachment

what' going to keep the stub from rotating? a bolt is enough? excuse my metallurgical ignorance... =)

Hey Rick,

Is this the fix others have used that you told me about? I'm also wondering how you are going to pin it so it doesn't rotate? Didn't you say other people have successfully fixed these cams by welding them back together? I remember you saying the driver's side cam breaks way more often than the pass side...so people have developed a fix for this. Good luck with it.

I knew there was a trick to this V8 in a 914 business. Now I get it- it's because the V8 is a crankcase as well and not a block like I kept thinking.

NOW I understand why you V8 guys keep saying it's easy to work on in there....

Just a thought if the cam repair doesnt work out. That guy down in Fla. that is always trying to swap parts with anyone who lists stuff for sale had a bunch of 928 engines he was trying to sell. He may have the cams. Dad and Mom say to tell you hi

I will have the inside of the cam threaded and end of the new stub threaded. Add some locktite and I think it will stay.

Hi ya Larry! Back at your Dad and Mom!

Aren't you going to have to pin it in some way so it doesn't spin again and cause the same disaster again?

Too many guys think I can't or shouldn't fix my cam. So I'm not.

I just received my Cometic thick head gaskets and reinstalled the heads. I have one more torque sequence to go, but your supposed to let the engine sit for a couple hours before the last phase. The engine should be back in by Saturday night or sunday morning.

So does this mean you had to drop $950 on a new cam?

He's going to use a perfectly good pair of US spec cams (he had them already) to tide him over for a while...then later, he'll source the Euro "extra super fancy" cams.

now that's some good news!

Just in time to put it up before the first snow

Hey!

Hey Larry! This Blings for you!